8
NEW CLOTHES FOR THE NEW SEASON.
The first anxious question thai sach woman flings at those who| have been behind the scenes COD- cerns the ulsere, the skirt, and the colours. One would think that no other features of fashion existed in the imagination of the designers; and truth to tell expert opinion begins to coin de with that of the public.
When a dressmaker leaves the top of the arms, bars and suspends a full sleeve from a bracelat above the elbow to the wrist, naturally the world stares, exclaims, wonders. When wide trans parent scarf edged with a galloon of colour across the front of a low bodice, permits the ends of is to stream out xcross the arms and fall at the sides, and calls this a pair of sleeves, the public realizes: that the designers are taking to new arm coverings as a means of) attracting attention away from the over advertised skirt. At least, that is the impression. This scarf, by the way, is attached to the bodies by a snap and can be removed at the wearer's will. When it is removed, one is in the usual half low gown.
There is a concerti i movement in the new gowns, also, to omit the armhole. Possibly the dress- makers are weary of hearing complaints on the Dtef the sleevej and the pull of the bodice because the sleeves are not placed right.
WHAT OF NEW SKIRTS? As for skirts, they are decided. ly longer. Some dressmakers are bolding out against them, but the feeling that they will rule the fashions by December is too! strong to be denied. The hoop skirt of Spanish persuasion is shown by most of the dress- makers as a picture gowa. One point of importance must not be mlased. It is this: the new long! skirt is not as fall as prophesied. į It is narrow, and as flat at back! and front. There is falness at the sides, arranged in various Ways. godet circles in some) frocks, draped points in others.
·* But the flatness of the new skirt is appalling. From whence will come the figures to wear these akirts? A woman must not show
single curve back or front. All
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THE · HONGKONG, TELEGRAPH.
dimensions are omitted from the inches from the floor there was a figure except that of breadth. frill of white muslin and laze It is the accepted fashion to exactly after the manner of those drop a transparent skirt to the rules that once accompanied heels at back acd slightly shorter each formal gown.
in front over a slim slip of supple One feature of the new frocks silk that fails to reach the hem of which differs not from the old the upper skirt by eight inches. ones is the neck line. What is Another thing concerning skirts called the bateau neck, the oral that the individualist must notjopening of the Italian Renais miss the ancient and honourable sance, remains in power. It balayeuse of muslin is revived. remains on the best of the in- Beneath the hem which was five formal dinner gowns, also on the
Dinner frock from My
neur.
It shows u tom live
woven of gold and yelle thread. The frock isuude of lacquered silver cloth.
irith lacquered silver lure ut the neck.
Abore al left, a dinner frock of purple crepe de chine. The belt is Jostened at the side with large silver
buckles linked together.
At right, smart top coat of block cloth trimmed with lamb's jwool dyed light green and braid made of silver rings and green thread. These models are from Jen Putou,
WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 1921.
21
The Dresden figurine colouring work-frms the conspicuous does not appear; a bold design of feature of the frock. bright small flowers on a black/ Frobably the thing that attensta, *background is used. For adults, the lasting attention of those who taffsta, li appoars, is dismissed suddenly see its importance in the Satin has not much chance for tight hipkins formed by'a girdle popularity. It avon gives way iojif gorgeousness. This is the soft milk as a foundation skīrs. Oriental touch on most frocks, Georgette, crepe is used in aĵand on all frocks there in a Jow
· lavisa mannar for evening gowns øred waistling which is inmated when splendid beading or crystalita balance the longar skirts.
FASHION NOTES.
loose frocks that are to be worn!
THE NEWEST MILLINERY, under the capes and short coats of the new season. There is
Colour in millinery is certainly much of the Second Empire lineas of the features of the season, seen in the evening gowns, bat but to be successful it must not ingenalty redeems it from the be abused.
that
Picturesque afternoon gown by Molyneux of beige crepe Morocain banded with beuter. Orange-colour- ed flower with brown velvet leates at the waist. Large bron velvet hat with orange bou.
than the wider. All summer we hare noticed the wide silhouette sida by, side with the narrow one, although it must be said that the best dressed 'women have reserved the former for their very thin evening dresses, For evening, even the most con servativa bave not always been able to resist its fascination
commonplace. For example: a A black hat with a note of king- band of brilliant jewelled galloon fisher blue looks well. A Bars is placed to indicate the low blue toque may have varnished Court line and the fabric of the wings of another colour preferably frock is brought up to meet it to
particular colour which! an even series of sharp points. rims the dress with which it is This same effect is observed on, or the colour of the blouse! capes. There are loons capes of it is meant to go with. To in- white chiffon, of crepe and of troduce two bright colours into Rodier's new cotton crepe with oce costume is fatal. coloured designs in Japanese pai- Se tempting are the new hats) sera which show this neckline. and so varied in style, that it is In capes, the neck band is of the to go wrong in choosing! material edged with
them. The reason dressmakers black) monkey fringe: the open scallops often show hats with their formed by the points which meetdresses is to suggest to their the band show the neck of the clients the sort of bet that i
needed for each dress. The point gown beneath.
The striking change of the is worth noting because the wrong season is the banishment of blackhat so often spoils & good dress. and the retura to colours. The. For more elaborate wear, black dressmakers used them during|| is always safe. The materials the late summer and brought used for black millinery for vividness back into fashion.
autumn wear are velvet, crepe, There are certain" sets of wo- Marocain, and leather. With men who still regard all black as regard to these leather hats, they the best choice in clothes, but it are still being worn in deep shades of red and blue, and; is commonly accepted as # fashion whose day is done. There when white felt forms the upper are black lace frocks, long off
brim the effect is charming.) skirt, with the new bodice that especially for brunettes. drops in a straight, narrow line Many brims are being lined from shoulder to hips, but thej underneath with Home pasted feeling for gay colours is quickly shade that throws & soft shadow expressed in a conspicuous girdle tissue is an excellent lining for
on the face. Oxydised silver of metal rings, of galloons, of buge flowers, or the lace skirt grey felt bat edged with abaded will carry a gold brocade bodice.feathers, or the colour of the Crepe in its various manifests flowers that decorate the hat tions remains the choice of the for flowers are still in use may majority of those who design with grest
be used in the lining beneath clothes. Not much velvet was flower, rather large than small,
effect. A singie! [shown in the recent collections,
surprising as it may seem, bat or two little ones set back to metallic brocade held its place of back, is trimming enough even the ends coming close to thejand even mousseline-de-soie For day-time wear, however, power for the evening and also for the smartest hat.
Fears the Gladstone collar of the continue to compose the materials) and more especially where the for bodices which were joined to AFTERNOON DRESSES. English, and the Louis Philippe in which they are developed. The tailor-made is concerned, the cloth skirts. Serge has soine- Afternoon dresses are now of the French
girdle forms a great part in all fairly narrow, short skirt is the thing of a fling this season, but it frequently cut tonic-shape, open- Collars of organdie, light and the new gowns, and they are to one that will be wor is not demurely treated. Steel ing upon in under bodice of lace transparent, keep in position with be had in beads of all colours in Parisienne and her English con- beads and other devices to attract or organdie, the latter furnishing adventitious aid, and they are and out of the rainbow. attention are used. Little braid- the collar. When of lace, this much more comfortable and
The large ostrich fan has long strands of ostrich falling to the floor. Dinner gown designed by Agnes, made with a long tight bodice of maute satin with flounced skirt of georgelle cul in points.
The
sin, who are now accustomed to the greater freedom givau by !skirts reaching only to the knees,
ing is seen Fur is used for collar needs whale-bone to keep graceful than those large taffeta. WIDE OR NARROW SKIRTS ? banda wben bends are needed it in position, moreover the two ruffs which diafigure many One of the most interesting will'shrink from the longer skirts- And fur is simply treated. It is points are quite long, and dresses now worn that phases of the present mode le the for walking. It is therefore 2.
Jao longer tortured Neither rounded off on each side For travelling costs and for contest between the wide skirt gravely feared by the fabion metallic embroidery nor figured of the face. A similar capes, collers continue to be high and the narrow. There is no authorities that they have made impressions dent its surface effect ray be obtained with or in the back, Stand that doubt that the shorter skizis are mistake in endeavouring to Taffeta is rarely shown except gandie, although more frequently As to the frocks themselves more useful than the longer revive the old-time long dremas jin picture frocks for young girls, such collare are very wide with crepe-de-chine, crepe Marocsin lones, and the narrow, more except for svpning wenz,