THE "MAIL'S
A VARIETY OF STYLES RULE IN THE. SPRING-MODE.
Ensembles Gain in Favour and Two-Piece Sults Are Increasingly Shown. Fluttering Designs
Dress Marks a Return to the Feminine in Clothes.
THE CHINA MAIL,
SATURDAY, JUNE 16, 1928.
FASHIONS ILLUSTRATED.
MODERN RIDING HABITS
SHOW CHIC.
BRIGHTENING CORNERS WITH GAY DECORATIONS.
Closets Become Cheerful Places to Visit-Cupboards Are a Source of Delight, and All Because of Interesting and Colourful Household Accessories,
Youthful smartness, style and comfort are three of the important Items listed in the ensembles that are sweeping the springtime hori- zon with increasing effectiveness. The ensemble idea itself is one of prevailing charm. It is to be found in the costumes that appear in every hour of the day. From the
sports mode to the elaborate clothes for formal times the ensemble note is distinctly present.
Afternoon ensemble for spring possess an air of sophisticated sim plicity. A two-piece dress in silk or wool is charmingly combined with a coat-full length-and in either harmonizing or contrasting shade possessing a lining to match the froek.
combine smartly with coats of navy in creating a chic ensemble.
there
dressca. Inspiration for might be gained from the charm- ing fabrics that usher in the springtime. Gay flowers and un- usual patterns suggest a fluttering movement in dresses and this year the fashion designers have allowed the feminine instinct for fluffiness to rule. Circular tiers, jabot frills, streaming circular sections, ties, bows, scarfs, uneven hemlines, di ped backs and all the other de. create a softly vices used to femining silhouette have been call ad upon to establish the new mode. The effort to create a feminine
New Togs Show a Feminizing Influence, Yet the Breeches Are
Still Much in Evidence
Accessories Are Important.
Spring, bringing forth blossoms, chintzes and smart closet aceea have closets painted in a neutral
of sweet acent and gay colour, may sortes of unusual appeal. be in part responsible for the many Closets need not be merely use lovely and life-giving accessories ful-they may also be decorative. that are at present dominating the They are really quite as attractive ahops which enter to a smart as they are convenfent when fitted clientele.
with closet accessories. Matching
or gaze
Riding to-day, while a most in- formal sport calls for the same It is no longer necessary to hastisets of closet boxes in glazed chintze, velvet, satin and lacquered cure in selecting suitable and smartly close a closet door clothes as it did a generation or so mournfully at an uninteresting cup- papers are all to be found in charm ago when riding styles were estab-board. Interior decorators lished with the Horse Show.
At.
have
found a means of brightening the corners of the house with cheerful
used and while they are heavy they are always supple as to texture.
ing colour schemes and patterns.
For the feminine closet--as well
tone, and accessories and shelf decorations used in the quaintly flowered patterns which carry out the atmosphere of olden days.
Linen closets are indeed a plea- sure when done in the new manner. They, too, must conform to the general tone of the home. Edgings and shelf papers should be chosen carefully. But they should always. give the atmosphere of cheerful
ving
Edgings come in many
Ways.
Soft vagabond felt hats are the ac-ed chintze, for instance, is simply come charmingly designed for both
cepted made with the informal
hablt.
found stocking boxes, glove boxea, A feature of the ensemble is the
There is an air of informality to
as the mere male-there are to be hat stands, linen pads, hat boxes, contrasting fabrics used to create
coat hangers, shoe boxes, suit They may be plainly ruffled with them. Kasha, velveteen, silk, crepe,
day that makes the breeches and
boxes, transparent dress bags and a picot edge or they may be scal- straightlined, fucket a pleasingly rayon and chiffons are used at will
soft shirt and open neck and to establish a smartly new mode.
Achemes as well as shelf edging, put on plain or fullled or tucked. Two-piece suits are prevailing in outline has in many cases called up youthful outfit, The mode which
mending bags all in matching loped or pointed, They may be While one-toned sults are consid-shelf pads and papers of colourful Lacquered papers that match them
make charming shelf coverings. chic in the young person's ward-styles of past years to give the demands a side-saddle habit man-
These accessories come in the Feraonal clozets, of course, are robe. There is definitely establish necessary air of feminine charm to ages to establish a certain air ed an air of youthful, smartness in the new types, Drapa effects and of formality. Even the neckline ered smart, for roadside riding appeal,
which goes with this outfit bears there is noted a tendency to wear. The three-piece ensemble is in the simplicity of the costume puffs are all reminiscent of days the marks of studied cars. The vagabond outfits which consist of most interesting materials. One's not the only ones made interesting. colour scheme is quite intriguing these lovely deed one of distinct Importance. It Pleated or plain skirt and jumper past,
Colleen Moore in planning a dis-high collar and stock and vest are trousers of a different shade from room in general should be the foun Kitchen clasets have an allure that
all evidences of a dignified and con- the coat. Green, now that spring dation for the is to be found in street clothea af are combined with very charming
Some of these are of the tinctive spring wardrobe, has servative to the extreme sports out-s here, is most pleasing to the eye. Peach and nfle green done in glazy days; Edgings and shelf paper a delightful simplicity in woollens results.
that' reveal same colour and materials while chosen dresses The basket of distinctive weave.
feminine quality and suita weave cloth is novel and pleasing others use a contrast in both shade
ner. Apricot and pale blue, too, out the colour scheme of the kit- Suits in general are made of one
enticing in the somewhat dark cor- dish and utility closets and carry In an ensemble nature. Jersey and a large of Blouses, and fabric. in the daytime outfits.
done in a plain material; is lighten chen and butler's pantry skilfully which become increasingly import variety of knitted goods are found First National's "Her Wild Oat," material-generally of whipcord.
green, orchid and green and light cans also come in coloured enamels ant, are a feature of the two-piece effective in these sports suits. The Miss Moore has opportunity to Long johdpurs, tight fitting below
several charming outfits. the knee and extending to the in soft-tones are noted, handkering and brightening. Yellow and and tastefully. Kitchen boxes and dresses that are topped by coats of bodicea show important features in wear
In the three-plece the kerchief necks and in the tied One is of black made in the new ankle, are preferred to-day and chiefs, buckles, and riding crops all blue and yellow are all delicately and may add to the colourful de- all. lengths.
manner, while another dress which have taken the place of breeches show a tendency towards qulet ele appealing shades that make cheer corative Idea. Curtains have long sults the coat is of course worn effects at the hips, Jackets which
servative in colouring and decara- Brighter and more vivid tones are ance of the room and
the also possesses a matching jacket and boots. The coats with these gance and are more or less con- ful the most desolate of closets. been known to add to the appear- Is of belge and brown and possesses are cut straighter..
permitted to penetrate into cup-closets are coming into their share The ensemble note is strengthen- tion. futuristic designs. Another din-
Frances Hamilton, wearing her boards, too, but these, must neces-and there is no longer need for a ner dress expresses a new note Ined in the new riding suits. It is its deep bertha collar of face and now smart to have all the details riding togs with a very youthfulsarlly be in harmony with the fur dull corner.
Billie Dove, First National ster, The mode for frills is apparent Its skirt shirred in a different man-match the colour of the suit. For and chle air, adapts the informal nishings of the room. Orange and
instance, hat, tie, belt, gloves and attire and is seen in breeches, soft black can be striking, lemon and has personally, neer to it that her ly established in the day and formalner.
shoes are all of the tone of the suit blouse and accessories all of a most grass green, red and white, black home possesses artistic and gally exotic colourful cupboards and closets and whether it be Oxford grey,, tan, youthful nature. Miss Hamilton and pale green all lead an
charming brown-the leading has opportunity to wear this pleas-note and must be skilfully chosen. has selected several
ing outfit in the First National The coloniul rooms which use colour schemes to match the furn- green shades.
Both short and slip-on gloves are Film "Harold Teen."
flowered papers on the wall should ishings of the rooms.
.
The Tuxedo
short, while in the more formal out-accompany these suits are neces- sarily Informal. The short, loose its the coats become longer.
The ensembles which use linings coat or the slightly fitted jackels
are most often seen, of coats to match the gown, much in evidence. The printed coat is particularly eTective. silks in their formal bouquet pat. terns are much seen in dresses and
are
FASHIONS FROM PARIS. making a feature in her collection of draped hats in several designs. Paris-For junior and young One is a turban of black satin rib- misses' sports sults, soft tailored bon in soft folds with two loops at shirts are made in such materials each side of the back. Another as crepe, cotton, broadeloth, pon- has a piain tight crown, low at one gee, linen, pussy
and side and lifted on the other, and a rayon, They are finished with a tailored bow that is laid flat across slightly cut-out square neck, the the front of the hat toward one Peter Pan 'club" collar or the "boy side. ish V" sporta collar.
willow
The little nose-tip vell is shown on some of the small hats of straw, It is made of. fine black lace, chan- tily or a dotted novelty.
*
workmanship for its success.
materials to appear to their beat advantage. They are finely woven, pliable, of downy softness, and yet firm enough to provide that indis- pensable plumb which adapta The day of fabrics for tailoring. burdensome wraps is evidently over, for the coats of this season are light in weight, refreshing in colour and yet warm enough to pro- test against the icy wind that blows beneath a Springtime sun,
or
blouse to be worn with it, and usually there is a lacey jabot.
Ties of soft silk crepe de chino
BEAUTE. AFTERNOON FROCK OF SATIN
THE ESSENTIAL' KERCHIEF.
·STOCKINETTES.
now
A spotted scarf or kerchief of It is some years ago since a Another conservative model is
The scarf, the handkerchief and some kind is essential to the well- modiste told me she was tired of made in beige or gray tweed or one of the rougher weaves and departs the sash have all been put to de-being of the toilette of the moment. stockinette and was glad to see it from the strictly tailored form by corative use by dress designers in It may be square triangular, or going out of fashion. having a narrow self belt inserted
NO IN
•
In Softest Flannel.
Woven
slons.
Lady Bathurst the other after
Fetching dance frocks for spring
But its eclipse was only mom- are made of tulle in very bouffant
at the side or front under a fanciful planning their new season's crea-rectangular, but it must be large.
It can be made in gingham, entary and, with the introduction styles. Some are all of one colour,
Each season the Parts couturier cutting. Along with these sultations. A folded silken handker-
charming patterns, while others have ombre effects in
one flannel, tweed, crepe de Chine, of restrained examples of chief set with the point on in laying down the general rules come several shades of one colour, or in
Just at the moment when design for the development of the season's the short cape back, which may or shoulder, and the ends knotted georgette, or metal lame, according tinsel effects and the like, its pre- rainbow tinta.-Bodices made of taf-
a feature to the gown with which it is to be fetta or satin are in aimple styles, in dress. has become unusually in styles seems to set aside one gar may not be detachable. But after loosely on the other, is
on which the individual these. two conservative models of many toilettes both for sports worn, and should be arranged in a sent-day popularity is phenomenal. while flowers and ribbon are used tricate, the spring coat appears in ment
of the various comes the deluge. After these, any and for afternoon wear, bestowing graceful rather than "original" The new fancy stockinettes take If it can claim a direct their place, with more elaborate on most of the tulle frocks. Garni-the simplest form, a straight sil- imagination
on them a somewhat Bohemian air. manner. tures of trailing sprays are shown houette, tailored in appearance and couturiers may operate unham thing may be expected.
An alternative arrangement, how relationship to the hat so much the materials for quite dressy oCCE finished with a youthful and, fiat pered. This season the jacket for the sides of the frocks, and a
ever, is to place the scarf round smarter. loop and end of ribbon are often tering treatment of neck and suit seems to be that ungoverned tucked in a clever menner among wrists. It has reached a sophis-one, and the result. is a melange Suits with dark jackets and skirts the shoulders fichu wise, and pass the flounces. Taffeta is apt to be ticated simplicity where it depends of types that formed into a pro in a matching plaid or check have it through slots in the material The sketch shows three good noon had a sleeveless grey · cardi very fashionable for both the more upon the quality of its fabric and cession, would convince the specta- had recurrent vogues through the By this device quite a different examples of this mode. The top gan woven with tiny checks of..
tor that some sort of local years and are included in this sea-effect is achieved.
illustration is of a rose flannel elaborate daytime frock and for
Mardi Gras was inPro son's successes, but memory fails to The afternoon frack sketched is kerchief with pale gray spots sur-ever-coloured silk, which at first evening this season.
The style this spring clia for
gress; a fancy dress cuti- supply an instance before now fashioned in navy satin beaute, and rounded with a black circle. It is glance looked like tinsel thread, to Felt hate are now being made one of two things, quiet elegance petition whose sole restriction had when the colour of the jacket could is made with a skirt that flare in worn with a rose felt hat (with accompany a grey frock. "dressy" with fine hand tucking, or sturdy, colourful smartness been the order to wear a jacket and adsolutely ignore the tones of the accordance with Fashion's demand. small embroidered motifs of black At a Recerit Sale of Work. such as Mercedes illustrates in a The dressy type expresses the skirt. Certainly that one bit of skirt plaid, as it is apt to do in this The handkerchief is of belge, and and grey silk) and a grey flannel amall model of beige felt on which novelty of the season, in whicli gen-description covers practically the spring's styles. Lanvin shows a navy spotted foulard, and two dress. the tucking extends over the up the tones of grey prevall. An effort only features that most of the new notable example of this disregard miniature editions of it are pass-
Round the Toque. turned brim at the front. Al-has been made during the past year Paris suits have in common, that
The middle sketch shows a phonaine, whose hats are unusually to revive the vogte of gray in both and their reckless disregard of all for tradition in a little suit with aed through slots in the sleeves, and plasted black and white skirt in a knotted at the wrists. A wide popular this season, uses the new Autumn and Winter models but it the Inhibitions formerly accredited striking check nearly, two inches sash of similar silk is threaded long scarf of balge georgette pinkish belge in a model of clever has appeared only in individual to jacket suits across. It is made with a youthful through the material at the waist, with large jade green spots. It hibits at a recent sale of needle- ly arranged folds which are lifted costumes while the belge and castor. There are a few conservative box Jacket of the fascinating geran tonished with loops, and has long is draped round a tiny green toque work to while I went. One of over one eye and dip low on the shades have predominated. With mobres, among the designers, just
throat. opposite side.
Patricia Ramsay, who, that after- the names of some of the foremost as there are always a certain few lum red so popular just now. ends falling, below the hem at one before belog swathed round the these was purchased by Lady The triangular scart in the lower noon, wore a beige shaved lamb Among the smart, moderately stylists of Paris to conjure with, who resist any violent change, and The jacket is unlined and collarless, side.
sketch is made from a new fabric coat with beige for collar over small hats from Rose Deacat is one however, coats of fine fabrio in these form a sufficient number to and is finished simply around all
having small black velvet spota a belge gown. Her felt hat was of black baku, which is tucked and tones of gray are now shown in the give prestige to the carefully tailor the edges with many rows of ma plaited and has a brim that is, tuck latest models.ed suit of navy or black serge or calne stitching, and when shown ed and plaited and has a brim that In the great number the allhou whipcord, the sort of suit for which was worn over a fine white linen plaid crepe de chiae in navy and on a gold tissue ground. It is of exactly the same shade and had
white. The skirt of the frock is caught together at the back of the a feather brush at the right ear. is short in front and widens at the ette is cut to follow the line of the America has always been noted. blouse of English embroidery. aldea. An ornament of large bril- Agure, being cut straight, but with Redfern and Lucile make the jacket Even in that more or less back pleated, as a concession to its more neck and fastened with one of the Pretty coats of printed linen would be good purchases for tonnis lants is placed in the middle front out the box effect Sleeves are of this suit double-breasted, and neyed combination of dark facket business-like purpose, but for all new diamante brooches in the were also shown at the sale. These
Glycerined feather brushes, short after the conventional coat pattern, very slightly fitted, as opposed to and plaid skirt, Paris, has found that, it is a silk frock. Time was form of a bow aigrettes and ornaments of cire rib and the collars are of fur, fox cara, the box jacket: Jenny blouses it a means to infect an element of sun when to wear a short suit jacket It has a plain black velvet border, wear or for the holidays when a bon are shown on many of the cul, krimmer or badger,
bit over a string belt, but always prise, for she has deliberately com- over a silk frock would have seent and clearly "belongs" to the hat in wrap Is needed over a cotton
Mall.” smaller hats, which are elaborated
leaving room for glimpses at collar bined a suit jacket of navy, wool ed merely an unlovely expedient to the case. By Odette in "Dally frock-By Jacqueline in Daily to the extent. Marie Alphonsine is
and cuffs for the dainty white with a frock of the new pen-stroke, save buying a cont
The fine simplicity of design in these latest models allows the cont
Mall
Dressing gowns specially design
ed to fit warmly to the Agure, made in stain lined with a con- trasting shade, were new ex-