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DRESS FABRICS FOR
THE SPRING-
Great Range Of Materials
We are golag to wear blue cot-" Cotton is giving us a great range: of materials, but let us consider it as cotton, 非
ton. It sounds like the goose- girl in the fairy-tale; and if so simple a recipe results in each of us marrying a Prince we can only rejoice and hope he is a nice one. Or we can be a Princess in this very becoming disguise, and he will then, of course (there are natural laws which may not be contravened), be the Miller's Third Son, only preferably not the local miller.
Maybe we shall wear blue cot- ton merely because it is the fas hion, and marry nobody at all either because we don't want to or because we are married 'and like him, or because we have been married and didn't. And there- will be fun inherent in that wear- ing. because cotton is 00 longer something you buy be cause you can't afford inen; nor is it the substance which you make, or should, garments for the smaller heathen who live outside the flannel-climates; nor is it what housemaids wear in the "early mornings. (Does the "print
dress" st exist?)
No, cotton is now all things to all women, from a tub-frock to a velvet dinner-dress. At Burling- ton House there is a hollow-cut cotton velvet, giving a corduroy efect, in a woodsy-green tint, which is very interesting, But, the cotton-y cottons are interesting too. After all, your pearls may, be made of condensed milk, but producers of condensed milk will .still consider themselves nearer to dairymen than to fishmongers.
NURSERY MODES
What Little People Will Wear
Easter and even summer fashions are already being ordered for the nursery. The children's dress makers are designing attractive two and three-pieces in fine-" weight crepellas in the spring colours-primrose yellow and leaf green. Pinky,beige is also popular.
Little capes will take the place this summer of the coatees worn with winter frocks. Lady Mary Cambridge is still wearing with hier sleeveless frocks the oyster velvet coatee buttoning at the waist that was sent down to her at Bandringham at Christmas She has one of these coatees every year to wear over her frocks at country houses, which are notori- ously draughty,
American Influence.
It can be ratine, which means that it is of the heavier type, and "seersucker" checks show the in fluence which America is exercis- ing on European products. A certain tweedishness characterises some of the cottons; and, there is no known form of crimp, from a пір to a blister, which does not appear among the shown variety - of weaves. One leaves out.
course, the word as used by press- gungs, hair-dressers, and our hardy coastwise people who, ac- cording to thệ dictionary, and in a sentence which puts in the shade Harris's Fish-sauce, shop, "slash the flesh of freshcaught fish," in the desire to give it firmness.
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HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 8 8, 1935
Blisters on cotton are produced f. with less resource to the methods we associate almost entirely with the Spanish Inquisition. So are all the things being done with linens. They are fadeless crease- resisting, embroidered, "and al- together dandified out of recog¬ nition:
HALI.
At the opening of the not all tickets were 13 place; and an excellent piece of angora wool, pink in tone, and with a fine cross bar of deepest brown. was mistakenly described as linen; the first visitors, mis- led by the bewildering number of gulses in which the fabric ap-
pears, took it as linen just the PARIS FAVOURS
same. Nobody can be blamed; there isn't a woollen-mill expert in Yorkshire who can't turn out a worsted or a woollen that looks like linen.
Everything nowadays, thinks it
MUCH LACE
smart to look like something else. Evening Gowns And
There is this advantage in the ap- parent foolishness, that the chilly person can wear woollen on a coldish June day, and yet be to the eye clothed in summer tissue: and the woman with many American friends can wear heat- || less clothing when she visits them.
Beautiful Shades Some of both the linens and the cottons show beautiful shades of the blue which is to rule our choice, without ruling out some particularly good other shades. 'The silks and velvets seem a little less successful in blue. There is a very likeable crease-resisting Tootal volle in white, with large powder-blue spots and small dark blus ones: This is effective.
There is also a blue-green wool-. len; in a.weave which looks al- most like hemstitching. Tur- quoise-blue or Marina groen (they cannot be told one from the
Lingerie Trimmings
Look forward to lace in all the tones of tortoiseshell for dinner
and evening gowns, as well as ̈ those of tulle, not only of the classic plain, but printed char- acter in checks and floral designs.
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Woven
In. all probability we will start off on the latter group, from wool, but so fine that you would hardly know the difference from cotton. These fabrics are charming, and give a new charac- ter to lace, which is having a great come-back, not only for trocks and gowns, but lingerie.
A
The new idea is to make laces worn for gowns look entirely `dif- ferent through cellophane thread-
other unless seen together) ap-ings and new tulles pears on nearly all the dress fab- rics, and there is a good Marina lace. -
A de-lustred blue-green velvet will send many women asking for Hand-blocked Peachella fabric. georgette la white, with a red- and-brown design, called Cito- yenne, testifies to the Scarlet Pimpernel's Influence on this sea- son's clothes. It le both smart and likeable, and Heaven knows they usually rùn tandem and not in double harness.
Ashes-of-roses, beige, a sult green, and black and white run in a bunch behind the blues.
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The latest lingerie is trimmed with lace. This is not going to hamper the silin line, not even beneath a clinging evening gown. because it is applied in the smooth manner which brings it into anı · all-in-one focus with crêpe de Chine or satin
The ecru tint that used to be so popular with no matter what coloured sathi or crêpe now sub-
sides to one of a matching hue." This new spirit comes into every style in lingerie, and," apart from the fact that it conserves the one colour scheme, opens up a new era in the lace industry.
The Slim Line
Armholes are to be wide and narrow, that is to say, long, not altogether cut on the "Magyar.”- pattern. Even shortsleeved ten- dencies seem to be changing in":
NOTES FROM A
FUR EXPERT
Do you ever brush or comb your furs or fur coat?
You should if you want to lengthen the life of your furs and keep them glossy and new-looking.
Here are some hints on the care" of fur sent me by a member of a technical paper, the "Furrier's Journal."
Furs have a tendency to mat and look unkempt," he writes.
"They should be combed with a tin comb with wide-apart prongs. "Now and again the fur should be freshened and toned up by brushing it with a damp scrub- bing brush.
Tap It Vigorously
"Put the fur aside until dry... the best time to do this is in the evening.
Next morning tap the fur vigorously with a thin cane."
The most essential parts to give attention to. are where the fur touches the neck, the back or seat of a chair, or any place that comes into contact with any other ob- ject.
"
And if you sit in your fur coat, as I often do, then I would add round-the-cuffs where the skin. rubs on a table or desk.
Never put fur near too great a beat to dry. Brush and comb the way the fur grows just as you do a dog or cat's coat.
an endeavour to slim down.
proportions. This means that Paris is not contemplating shorter length skirts
After sleeves, which are going "to be a great factor, necklines will run, the slender idea on sil houettes to a pish. Mostly high ones are mooted, but not "Ed- wardian high and from a rumour I gather they will be com plicated in the sense of designed seams, some of which will have to
be fitted ever so carefully.
NECKLINE IS CHANGING
A Choice Of Styles For Spring
Watch the neckline. It has 'much to do with a general good result in dressing. The new ruk-
ed neck-band can be bought se-
Mare's
LOPPE
HONG KONG Get your Old Hats Bleached and Remo- delled Now, in time
for Spring.
parately. It may consist of the Smart Spring Hats
ruched wool of the dress or blouse fabric, but inside is slipped an ex-
tra ruching of white cambrie or alik. This can tie in' a small bow and ends at the back Dress- corsages that Anish at the base of the neck show many changes in scarves.. One example liked consisted of narrow binds and ends of brown-ribbon cire inter- ́laced with duli gold. This frish-- ed a brown wool frock. 'A'silvér lame pleated collar and jabot to complete A black charmeuse afternoon gown was good. This went with n' waistband of the
same.
The thin and the slim can gain further inches' by adapting the new high collar-band with flutes all round and up the ears. There are all sorts of high-throt-- tled sort of necks, but only for the thin A toby frill has a dis- tinction of its own.
The tube style of woman can. carry the high collar and higher hat. There is more grace express- ed here than in the narrowed shoulders, fatter hata, and sleeves that are full below the elbow.
* Probably the collarless collar is the easiest and most popular of all neck-finishes. It is a style that suits the average and older woman, for it lies flat and fits where it should. With the collar less coat or outer wrap there is generally a bodice or vest that just turns over in a tiny collar to "leave the throat clear in the front.
Necklines have to be considered in relation to hats if satisfactory results are desired. This applies to comfort as well as Q smart appearance. The new gathered neck mounted on elastic is 0 clever idea.... The black panu ma hat, by another fashion-maker, is in sympathy with this move, ment, being of the elongated brim- med shape, with one side rolled up ond a little bow of white silk pique.
Very smart is the heavy Shan- tung baw-blue spots on,-white ground-drawn through a slot in a dark blue woollen coat for early spring. The hat is a navy blue Breton sailor in grosgrain, with white ribbon edge.
Gay little shoulder capes will be.. worn over frocks of a new natural- coloured ... uncrushable linen. These are being made for the Easter holidays. Some of the capes are in red linen, with white spots, and belis are red to match.
Coats are three-quarter-length and have sucking or other de coration on the shoulders. The skirts for small girls up to 10 are above the knee, skirts having be
shorter in the juvenile
come world!
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Just arrived.
South Arcade, Gloucester Building.
HATS THAT HELP
How To Select Most
Becoming Shapes
We have such a wonderfully Large choice in millinery models that it seems foolish to select a "difficult" hat! Nothing during the winter season has been more helpful than the three-cornered variety, or more difficult than the high Cossack. Indeed, any form of high hats is inclined to be rather unbecoming, especially if not carried out in costly Tabric by the master-hand.
The Cossack model in finest Persian lamb can emphasise Rus- sian style, and be worn effective.!! ly with the correct and chic far ing fur-trimmed belted coat. But take the poorer imitation, such as the top-heavy fabric cap that has no relationship to the rest of the toilette. It can be and often is most unbecoming. Ultra-high hats are apt to look hard and therefore very "trying."
The fist tricorne or even the higher Napoleonic toque is more likely to suit ordinary proportions. These are shapes that can look well in inexpensive fabrics, and, therefore, are a wise choice for the average type of English-
woman.
The charm of any fashion is fraught with an element of dan- ger, especially as I find a sad lack of humour in women: Otherwise we should not see so many ultra- high crowned hats placed on one side of the head. I get positively nervous watching the way the full-velvet or high-crowned fur cap has of slipping over the right ear! Only very young and pretty girls can carry off such a pole. Older folk lack" dignity by at- tempting the too-moyable toque! High crowns are going out.
Hats can now be quite lovely. The new straws are even as soft as silk, and every exquisite colour and fabric is being tried out! by the experts. Those who rather enjoy difficult headgear can attempt the new softly draped, poked (à la Gibson Giri) slanting sort of béret, or a softly stitched crown, and a amall one-sided
brim: both these shapes at least
'Bonnets and Haloes
The young can also Welcome new and charming versions of the bonnet, worked in satin, falle, or taffeta in two colours. The latest bonnet fits the head and discloses much expanse of forehead, or the Edwardian fringe In the front.
Halces are
very popular for cinema wear-carried out in gold or silver tissue, or in two-coloured satins. They suit the young There are at least two kinds of boaters, and several versions of the old pork-ple. The boater of the "eighties" tips up and down, and is worn straight, with a cer-
give a becoming and newtain additional hint of width,-
front and back line, and once, the correct poise la attained they can. be made becoming.
often provided by wings, or bows at each side. The new, very nar row, boat shape, generally com- posed of two fabrica or contrast ing straws, is tilted on one side, showing plenty of waves. ⠀
One of the most helpful sort of shapes for early spring is the newest taffeta cloche, showing an Infinite amount of handwork and a tiny brim of stitched silk or sirawIt is an excellent toque for either wind or sun, and is one of the fitted type that keeps its
A small brim is very pleasant either for travel, sport or any long day out. A little shade distinctly makes a hat helpful. Brims are so cleverly treated now in an en tirely different way from the pudding-basin cloche line. They are more becoming when uneven, and easier to wear, too, if we are unable, to obtain exactly the right amount of curls and waves
The Real Test
One must remember such de- talls when attempting the very new in headgear. - Bo often model is charming when worn in
and.
a salon, and put on exactly right, so seen from dattering angles But alas, so often when we get it home and adapt it for veryday hard wear, it may soon
Unless
ny hate Into
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