1909-08-07 — Page 10

had

FASHIONS AND FANCIES.

LLOYD'S REGISTER.

NEW RULES FOR STEEL SHIPS. It was announced in The Times of the 10th inst. that the Committee of Lloyd's Register of British and Foreign Shipping had decided to introduce now Enlos for governing the scantlings and structural arrangements of steal ships built under their survey and classed by them. Having regard to the exceptional position which the Committee occupies in regard to the mercantile marines of the world, it may be probable effect, Lloyd's made and their longer Register Book for morcantile shipping was

THE SHORTER PETTICOAT, Three years ago the smartly dressed woman was wearing white or pale-coloured petticoats that touched the ground at the back, if they did not actually trail on it. This was an uncleanly, unhygienic and most uncomfortable fashion. It everything against it, and nothing in its favour. Consequently it lasten a long time, for there is nothing so unreasonable as fashiou, nothing more inconsequent. We are now delivered from the trailing petticoat, and have udopted tho as susible mode of wearing it-if we wear

at all!-with the heat no than the instep-if we

THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, SATURDAY, AUGUST 7mm, 1909.

in quality and strength not then possible. Load-ball-room dancing. The sight of a pointed toe line legislation now governs the maximum weights to be carried by British ships, and consequently enables scientific analyses and calculations of stresses and strains to be carried much further than was possible formerly.

STANDARDIZATION.

in line with the leggenerally to be seen when ball-room dancers are having their first lessonn in the Morris-is a sad blot on the performance. The uplifted foot must always be held at right angles to the leg.

Here, then, is the plain A.B.C. of Morris dancing; the various combinations of the stape and jumps-the Chain, Crose-over Back-to-Back, Go-and-Come, and so on, are simple words, so to sak, which are easily learnt from diagrams, or, still more easily, from watching the dances or

Inail handkerchief and corner dances, movements of the hands are made

The maximum spacing of transverse frames permitted in fature, for the largest vessels is in. In the rules of 1855 the corresponding spacing was from 16in. to 18in. in 1863, from 23in. to 24in.; in the Rules now superseded it was 20in. to 27in. For warships the frame- service are different. In order to minimize the invariably necording to rule. They are such instep! Though many well-dressed women has been marked by great changes in shin-rede of numerals to another the new Rules feet, all the limbs thus playing a definito ar established in 1835, and the subsequent period increase in weight produced by passing from that they harmonize with the movements of the

it

much more agreeable as well of interest to explain briefly the changes spacing is commonly 4ft, but the conditions.of it were, in which the words are

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have abaniloned the patticoat as irrelevant, building. on. others · it IB CLA

tempestuous as ever. Exiguous about the hips, it lows out balow the knees in frills and tucks and flounces, baracked, beribboned, and be luced, and even Bower-pointed. They are piled in tempting heaps on many counters at the summer sales,

and are

infancy

one

bargain-hunters of some emplation among building still retained a very important relative practice since mild steel began to be used, plates

RETURN OF THE FROU-FROU.

One petticoat, in soft, clinging white satin, has a deep pleated frill of the satin itself, with a pleated" frill of silk madin above it, beth frills being edged with narrow black satin raching, and both trimmed with three rows of narrow black satin ribbon Hero, then, is the frou from back with us. Another, in turquoise satin, has painted nullius unclosing Empire wreaths of pink vases, niso painted, and the whole garlanded à la Louis XVI., with black is trimmed with rosebuds in this ribbon work, lace work oatlined with pale gold. Yet another is in Rose Dubarry soft silk, with a dea la Bounce bordered with a ribbon ruche in the colour of the silk. Insorted under the edge of the petiticoat are two flatly pleated frills, one white silk, one Rose Dubarry.

THE MAILLOT DRESS.

There are signs that the maillot dress is going to be greatly exaggerated and traves tied. It lends itself to this sort of thing, expecially when adopted by wearers who art, painfully thin, or even more painfully the rururso. Wait till we see it at the seaside, blown by high winds to the revelation of angles and asacons promontories, or on a Channel bont in a breeze as worn by a lady whose height is a littleover five feet, and whese circumference about the hips is somewhere near sixteen, But worn by someone with a gooi figure who carries self well, and his good action of the knees, the maillot is excellent. The freedom it imparts in walking is one of its good points, and if it is worn dragged too tightly round the figure above the pleated skirt, it is the fault of the wearer, not of the gown,

THE DUCHESS OF BUTHERLAND'S HOMESPUN PARTY,

160

To call the Duchess's party "homespa" is clearly absurd. It is by far the most charming garden party of the London season. The beauty of the garden, the charm of the splendid house, the beauty and grace of the chitoaine, and the crowd of interesting guests, all compits to make the occasion pleasant. The homopune are made in Harris, Lows, Shetland, and Sutherland, and are in attractive colours. They find a ready sale at this party, and are so durable as to be invaluable for Norway or the moers, as well as the constant travelling in which me many women of the world indulge nowadays

ideal shopping, in an idyllic garden, and to the strains of Herr Gottlieb's hand. The data is Monday, next, from half-past three to half past six The homespans lend themselves particular Vell to the prosent fashion of short skirt anthree-quarter cont.

Shuiles of purple are much in demand this season.

It

THE FATE OF SUNSHADES,

So far, there has boca but little need of sunshades. for appeared in the Park, ou days when there was meet of one of tho

lubs, but theirs is a butterfly exist coaching clubs, ence, and a fadden heavy shower smudges thems out of life, had calls on them for a protection

láce.

and

provide that the frame spacing shall be increased part When the Register Book was com monced, vessels of 500 tons were considered of by steps of half an inch; and that thicknesses art in the physical accompaniment to the exceptionally large size;

plating shall be increased by steps of two one-

music. Little batons are also used rhyt frontispiagge size, stoum navigation and hundredths of an inch (practically equal to half in a variety of ways, se in Bean 1837 no iron ship was classed" no Rutes for provided previously. For mild steel plates this stop those illustrative movements and devices;

Unti

and hands are clapped together in others. a millimetre) instead of by five one-hundredthe, us Thero is really no limit to the combinations of iron ships were framed until 1855, and when in thickness corresponds to an increase of about the fact that the A. B. C. is simple and Ixased revised Rules were issued in 1863, wood ship-0-821b, in weight per square foot. In Admiralty

on natural methods of progression and natural position. Up

to 1870 the basis of the Rales have been ordered by weights per square foot, Pestures enables it to be applied to the inter- for scantlings was "under-deck tonnage" and bars by weights per foot run; the system able-bodied, able-minded poreon can learn this but the growth in dimensions, the change has worked well, and is easily applied in prac A. B. C. in a very short time, seeing that only pretation of almost any dance-music. And any in proportions of length to depth and breadth, and the novel types of ships which had

the natural physique of a normally developed been introduced by that time, made it necessary pathy with the Engineering Standards Com-person, not the artificially strongthened mas

Lloyd's Register Committco, has shown sym- to abandon tonnage as the governing condition. mittee, and principal officers of their staff have

cles of the ballat-dancer, is required of the expert. opinions of shipowners, shipbuilders, and sur ints used in the construction of soups and their After thorough inquiry, by means of which the served on sub-committees dealing with mater

Of the traditional Morris-dance aire it is not vayors were scertained, Mr. Bernard Waymouth, machinery. In the new Etales the sections necessary to my much. Mom than a hundred then one of the chief surveyors, submitted a new required for angles, balb-angles. T.bulbs, rast now have been collected, and many of thes by means of a system of "numerals" depending sections," and this fact will be helpful to and dab of rastic par lance. In Oxfordshire schone for regulating scantlings in iron ships channels, bars, &c., are nearly all "standard are haunting melodies. Formerly they were upon the principal dimensions of vessels. Trans. both manufacturers and shipbuilders. The and Gloucestershire it is only of recent years

played

upon the pipe and tabor--the whittle verre members of ships' structures were to be Committes propose to maintain their es.. regulated by numerals obtained by adding to-tablished practice and to gether one-half the greatest moulded breadth, types of slips and

consider special that the violin and concertina have taken tha

place of the systems of

ancient, essentially English, dual- || ► one-half the girth on the midship section, and struction with a view to classification. These instrument. The pipe is a wooden flute a bee of the depth, or in algebraical language,

exceptional cases have boon numerous recently, all diameter and a foot or so in length, with inefnding ressele in which the longitudinal whistle attachment about two inches below the mouthpiece. The lower end of the pipe is system of framing has been developed, or unusual structural arrangements have been pieced with three holes, two in front and one at adopted in order to gain officiency in particular the back, which are covered, respectively, by the trades. This broad-minded polloy is desirable first and second fingers and thumb of the left in the interests of both shipbuilding and com

hand.

From the other fingers of the same march. In giving effect thereto the Committee hand is suspended the tabor, a small shallow side- can command the services of an experienced drum, which is struck with a stick held in The form and character and scientific staff. So long as they continue the right hand.

of traditional English dance tunes muut have action such as has been takes in the prepara to aasist progress in mercantile shipping by

been affected by the use of such a primitive tion of the new Rule, the Committee may fost instrument as the "whittle," restricted both in tain the proud position which has been secured to the violin gave a liberty of which, but for confident that Lloyd's Register Book will main compass and range of expression. The change by the efforts of sncessive administrators since

the devastating victory of ball-room tunes and its foundation 75 years ago.

dances in English villages, very good use might have been made,

Transverse number=B+1G +D, where B represente breadth, G girth, and D depth. For features contributing to longi- tudinal strength the corresponding numeral was obtained by multiplying the transverse

numeral by the length-

Longitudinal namFor=L{}B+ }G+D}, where L represents the length. The actual suntlings corresponding to the several nameral wore necessarily based on experience gained with then existing ships, and assumed the use available. Amongst these who assisted Mr. of materials and manufacturest forms then Waymouth in this difficult task may be men- tioned his successors in the chief surveyership (Mr. Martell and Mr. Cornish) and Mr. W. J. Hone, then a surveyor and the first graduate of the Royal School of Naval Architecture who passed from the Admiralty service into the staff of Lloyd's. Valuable assistance came also from the Committee itsoif, including, as it did and has always done, merchante and shipowners of large experience, shipbuilders of the first rank, and gentlemen interested in marine insurance. Doubts were expressed by some authorities as to the wisdom of the new departure, but after full consideration the Committee decided to make it, and subsequent events have justified their action. Nearly 10,500 vassals, having an aggregate ton uage exceeding 20 million tons (gross), held classes assigned by the Committee at the end of Jane, 1908, and out of the total mercantile ship building output of the world last year-about 1,833,300 tons (gross)-more than 764,000 tons were built under the inspection of Lloyd's Register with a view to classification. Within the year ending June 30, 1908, 648 new vessels aggregating about 1,182,000 tons had classes assigned to thom. In this list were included 49 steamers exceeding 5,000 tons each, seven vessels exceeding 10,000 tons each, the Rotter dam of 24,150 tons, and the Mauretania of nearly 32,000 tons.

STEEL BEPLACES (EOR)-

Since the Rules of 1870 were issued many changes besides increase in dimensions have

they are unable to afford. Few red ones have occurred in merchant ships. Steel has taken been seon, partly owing, perhaps, to the fact the place of irou, and as a consequence, scant that when a red mushade becomes throughly lings and structural weights have been lassened, wet, it drops ruddy tears upon

Steelmakers have produced auch larger plates theį hat and the gown of its owner." Shades and longer bars than were possible with of pink have been the favourits, and iron; new sectional forms have been rolled this colour is much more becoming to the com- and standardized for frames, beams and plexion that red, Green and maavo are apt to stiffeners. Stronger qualities of steel are make the face beneath book livid. There are coming inte nas; new systema of construction are leing devised.

shine. With a view to their taking the place

made more decorative this season. Some have

MORRIS DANCES. ·

Con

Nevertheless, in the revivals of these living antiques, the Morris-daneos, one would like to see the pipe and tabor used once more for making the In those latter days everybody is a collector music, so that the lively pictures they present of of antiques. Let us go out and collect some old-worldmerriment, without repining or wistful. thing in the modern variant of the old blood-ness, may be complete in every detail. It is thirsty saying sarcastically impated to the easy enough, as the writer has seen for himself, Englishman with leisure to dispose of. Some for an accomplished musician to become an adept of us are already weary of the manis. for col with this quaint doel-instrument. In samALE lecting-really form of racial introspection, cases the Morris airs are not traditional, but and are disposed to scoff at the sight of plates adapted from composed melodies. A caso in climbing walls, spoons lurking in locked point. "The Maid of the Mill," which wak cabinets, pewter sent into exile from the tap- composed by Shield for un opere producel at room, and other useful objects superannuated, Covent Garden in 1783, and promptly annexed so to speak, from the service of mankind and and adapted by Oxfordshire and Gloucestershire condemned to fantastic uselessness merely Morris men, who transposed it to the mixolydian because competition among collectors has set an mode and gave it the distinctive Morris rhythm unnatural price on them. Even less exonsable rhythm at once caught, as though it were seems the treasuring of things for which somehow in the blood, by those who hear modern life could and no possible nee. In the alluring tunes of Trunkles" or many cases the result of antiquarian research

herd's Hoy for the first time, or, a little later, fall into a like condemnation, being equally the enacted good-bye, lingering but not long useless from the scientito point of view and ing, of "Morris off to name only these, of from that of artists.

many curiously fascinating tunes.

Shep

their

Equally fascinating are the Morris dances No doubt the old-world environment in which which have been preserved for us by little these wild flowera of a world-wide art grew up brotherhoods of athletes-remember that these, has passed away for ever. Not but what they like all true country dances, demand vigour still survive naturally in certain localities-just landt, including Oxfordshire. Many of us cashire, a few white wind-flowers have appeared rather than ologance-in various parts of Engas, in one corner of an upland meadow in Lau- remember seeing the Morris danced down the very May for thirty years to the writer's High" at Oxford st Whitsuntide; but little knowledge, though not to be found attention was paid to such manifestations of elsewhere in that neighbourhood, and have the desire of country people-a desire as old perhaps possessed! that pleasannce erar and as young as England, for translating since Domesday Book. simple masia into rhythmic movements of social life that produced them has vanished, But, because the the body. We thought it all a somewhat that is no reason at all why we should discoun passed on without an afterthought of its better worth preserving as forms of a people's unneccesary survival of old customs, and tenance the revival of Morris dances. They are shades of blue which have a similar effect. Pink and nowe wethod is now employed generally not dare to hope that the outer world would ever virility and vivacity prove, they were not the

significence to ur own playing grounds.

self-expression than the peasant dances of any tortainly the Headington Morris-dancers did other European country, if only because, as is certainly the unfest colour. But are we to Scientific have any sunshine? Wise are those who choose in the design of merchant ships of

become interested in their mystery'aud that they inventions of a down-trodden peasantry (such as the simpler en-tout-cas, more solid of composi. classes. The Committee of Lloyd's have would be constantly invited to London and other some of the Polish rastic dances, which bear tion, and mere effectual against either shower or moved with the times, and have created far-off cities to teach the dances which had been signs of originating in that "hell of peasants") their more perishable cousias, they have been largely scientific staff which has been handed down from father to son. It is rather but of free-born, freedom-loving Englishmen

a powerful

recruited from amongst men or. borders of flowers with a little running Pompa The late Mr. W. John, who about 35 years ago William Morris came as the accepted revelation midnight Satan's Sabbath delights of! a pity that no Oxford undergraduate of the men never reduced by the tyranny of an utterly iginally trainor for the Admiralty service days when the poems and prose romances of selfish ruling clasa to the did most valuable work for the society in con-

Moreqver, even to-day the revival is very section with the structural strength of merebant of an earlier England, with its simple-thoughted ships, was one of the first appointments. Mr. and uncomplaining men and women, over thought much of reality; Morris dances are m Thearle, who has been selected recently to of learning Morris dancing. In might have tionably popular with the younger genera-

canght on se an athletic diversion, since, like tion. One would like to succeed Mr. Cornish as chief ship surveyor, rowing, it requires every muscle in the body in summer-time by the heroes of the Boe then danced deserves special mention. The Committee have to be well-tempered and is really a pastime football field. Ferhaps the revival will not also founded scholarships for students of naval for men rather than women-ball-room dances extend in this manner, but in a way to which architecture at the Royal Naval College and in with the Universities of Glasgow and Darlam. movements being more suitable for Larmout possibly, have given sufficient attention. The

their gentle, gliding, and swaying those who have brought it

Ahout

may not,. Concurrently with this action the Committee ously developing the physique of the latter. A. B. C. of Morris dancing may be used-why bare strongthened its staff of surveyors at home All the lessons of the ball-room dancing-mastar, not? for making new poems of rhythmic sound and abroad, and have called into council an advisory committee composed of leading ship all the unnatural subtleties summed up in the and action which constitute a national school of builders and marine engineers, to whom are

phrase "light fantastir too," must be forgot dancing. These new Morris dances, would be referred for consideration proposals made for form and to acquire the graceful vigour of such to the traditional ballads. As yet no English ten by those who wish to dance the Morrisin good to the old ones as Sir Walter Scott's poems are alterations in the Bales or in the details of a trae artist as Mr. Kimber, the leader of the established practice of shipbuilding.

composer of light opera, so far as the writer Headington Morris "side," who keeps his body knows, has thought of using the Morris dances The new Rules Introduce new formula for numerals used in determining scantlings, and erect and at rest-this is the essential point in at Sullivan nsed an old chuty in The Yeo-

the traditional

the make provision for only two main types

style, oren when executing men of the Guard, thus making a piece of haunt ships (1) the full scantling vessel, (2) the class !

which are the Morris steps at their ing music which ence based canot be forgot- and most vigorous, albeit differing only ton.-The Times.

more satin than

THE COLOUSED SHOE,

dour pattern over the rest of the cover. Other have a group of lowers on the centre of each panel and little rosebuds lofted all over the silk A favourite finish is a land of flowers close to the edge, then a mirrower band, and above it narrower still. There are moire en-tout-cus this sen2031.

This season has seen a marked development in the coloured shoe. With white or pale- tinted gowns, skoos of palo ton with gilt buckles are worn, and with costumes of the faded beech leaf or ruddy tan-colour, the eles are often dyed to moteh. In the same way, gowns in olive green or Wedgwood bine have the chausure to match, for it goes without saying that the stockings must match the shoes. Incomparably dainty is the effect of this

completeness in the toilette. For those who

deeply consider such matters it is worth some trouble to achieve

AND GLOVES TO MATUK,

It adds a kind of top note when the gloves are in absolute harmony with the shoes and stockings. White gloves are not nearly so- much worn with outdoor dress this season as tast. Shades of tor, mushroom, grey, and beige have taken the place of white, and are much more artistle, as well as more becoming The Queen hus set the example of wearing soft shades of dove and palest cream instead of

white.

WITH SOME EXCEPTIONS.

.

of

lofter

movements.

of vessel having continuous superstructure in degree, not in kind from the least eruberant such as an awning or shelter dock. The formule to be used in future are as follows:-

Transverse numéral B+D.

Longitudinal unmeral:L (B+D).

- Oirth on the midshipsvetion no longer is to be measured from the fore side of stem infincaces countlings directly. The length (L) to the after side of post on the upper deck, justead of from after side of stom to fore side

One may, perhaps, describe the steps as constituting & kind of glorified walking the "' walking on air" of a successful lover. Children instinctively adopt the Morrisstep in moments school is released on: of delight; oxamples of it may be seen whenever o

fina şummer's day. practically alike throughout all the dances, It is varying only in force there must always be of post, as in the Rules of 1871 The moulded force enough to cause the bells worn on the depth (D) is to be measured at the middle of the shin to make their gay shimmering sound, in The exceptions to the role that the gloves length from the top of keel to the top of beam length of stride, and in the height of the should match the coloured shoog aro to be found at side (instead of at the middle line) of the uplifted foot. The forward or stopping foot in the manvo which, in suede, is so very much in fashion, also in bac. Some very good effects uppermost continuous drek; except in awning is lifted as in walking, as if to step forward, und can be attained in evening dress with these at the deck next below the awning or shelter as to rug the bells. As the forward log is

or shelter deck vessels, where it may be taken than is vigorously straightened in s kick, s modish maays shoes. Work with pale blue they deck, provided the height between decks does straightened a hop is made on the rear foot; the give a chic to a toilette, and they also look very not exceed 8ft. The breadth (B) is the greatest dancer alights on the toe, but lets the heel go woll indeed with some of the paler tones of moulded breadth of the vessel. The proper dowe immediately. In the step most com- grey. There are some tints of pale green, too, tions of length to breadth are taken to the upper-monly used, the raised foot is throat forward which contrast agreably with these shoes.

most continuoga deck, and in the way of a long only so far that, when the leg is straightened bridge to the bridge deck For vessels exceeding to the kick, the forward heel is roughly the 14 depths in length plans allowing the

the

supporting foot. In the in the figures called "eapers" high tee. (the

step, chiefly in music tells when those extraordinary efforts essels up both in comfort and to 680ft, in length and cover all ressols hitherto are required), the dancer should raise the for in Esitability. Very bruusparent chemisettes classed by Lloyd's except the Lusitania and

werd fost till the toe is as high as, the kneo of no longer won, us they were last squon, Maure and the general effect of the new

the supporting leg.The Dor is the carve of the filing

which junip

in many deep us then. Some of our bost-dressed have Rules will be to lessen structural weight some- cuses begins Bud ends a measure; requires the simply a small square at the week in front, and what, while ample structural strength will be dancor to loup as high as his own uplifted foot, a still smaller one, quito misate, at the back, secured. In consequence of the universal em: holding legs and body stanight when in the air filled in with tucked or embroidered net, sous ployment of thoroughly tested steel instead of and alighting on his toes so na to break the times white or cream, and often black over white. shipbuilders have now an assurance of uniformity the ton of the uplifted foot, be pointed us in On no account must the practically untested irou used 40 years ago, heela to come firmly down. -X. AND 2. ia the Globe..

THE LACE COAT.

toa

of

The lace coat has looked rather, unhappy out of-doors this rainy season. Its turn may come, might have taken its place, and with great must be submitted for approval by the advantage to the

but as things have been, something more solls for affording sument strength bagi length of the dancer's foot in advance of the

are

wearer,

in

so wide or so.

The

revised Rules and tables incinde resaals

England is the Home

of Good Tailoring---

London the Fashion Centre of the World.

ÁN IMPORTANT SAVING Can be effected if you order your clothes from Londen. JOHN J. M. BULT,

Cash Tellor

140, Fenchurch St., London, Eng... has a Special Department in his business for attend. ing to the requirements of those abroad, where the... same personal attention is given which has built up his reputation at home. He guamates the best quality cloth-the best styles slao.

Frock CRIES are as follows:

Deem San (Sill-lined) Lounge Suit

Nadal and Kaicken

• from $2

-

84/-

ht

M

266267-

A choice of Tweeds, Flannel, Cherion and Serges any be had. Kindly state which required and the colour when writing for pattems. Sell-measurement forms on application. As a register is kept of all Checmen' measures, ais accurate fit is guaranteed.

RIDING. BREECHES cut on the most approved Unes from 35.

122222

By Royal Warrant to HM, the King.

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is the original and genuine "Worcestershire," and is the ideal sauce for use with all kinds of meat dishes, fish, soup,

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