THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH. WEDNESDAY, JULY 20, 1921.
PICTURE GOWNS OF COLOURED ORGANdie the SUMMER FASHION
The world is not through 'with organdia. It breaks upon the summer like a deluge.
Fashion bas set bernimble wils to designing frocks of this fabrio of the kind that hring us back to what we thought had vanished.
An interesting fact about these new ruled skirts is the use of or- gandie. Naturally it is a-fabric that would first suggest itself to dreas makers when they deter mined upon distended skirts. Taf feta is a fabric they like and use when they seek width, but of- gandie is more suitable to bot summery and frivolous after-
noons.
It is the one summer fabric suggestive of heat and laziness, of a round of pleasures and a life of leisure that lends itself to out- standing skirts. Crepe de chine. vuile, chition are too clinging to carry out this persistent new
movement.
Do these ruled skirts of or- gandie, and taffeta trimmed with argandie, these immense bats and Japanese parasols, the strapped slipper with light-colored stock. ing mean that a world which is weary of strife, blood-shad, pesti- lence, anarchists and labour dis ruptions is willing to turn to fash- ions that suggest peaceful paths. established conditions.
resiful women, a life of leisure as a sub- stitute for a life of turmoil?
The summer will tell.
No one claims novelty for the wide skin of this June. Yet the fact that the wide skirt becomes more frequent and is emphasized by masses of roles is cause for comment. Woman's attention: was drawn to the widening of skirts through dark crepe de chine, through taffeta in pastel. shades for evening, and through Grecian drapery that hung in points: but to-day, at this hour we are asked to regard with due consideration the same fashion in a fanciful number of muslin skirts made in Victorian style.
Here are
two examples of what the smart dressmaker does: 10 white gown. One is of chif: fon made in a one-piece slip with! square sleeves hanging to the wrist. Over the surface chrysan-i themoms are applied with an in- visible stitch. They were cut of black chiffon and display all their: ragged splendor. The roundi neck and loose sleeves are edgedi with black chiffon, the poke bon-! net is of white Milan straw with a black chiffon scarf run through It, tied in the back.
Another gown is of white and red dotted voile. The skirt is made from two wide Bounces. There is a deep bichu of whate chiffon and at every edge there! are bands of geranium red taffeta cut in sharp points. The cart- wheel hat is built of ruffles off white net ant the wide crown has a scarf of red volle which hangs to the hem of the skirt at the back.
One of the new organdis frocks for the country or seashore is in, water green with an immense! Spanish skirt, half of it formed of open lattice work made from bands of the organdie. Under this lattice shows a green taffeta petticoat, quite narrow and finish- ed with a lace flounce. The bodice has lattice work on the sleeves and in front, and the sash is of bright green pico; ribbon.
It is a minor note of importance that picot ribbon in any colour; whatsoever is chosen to go about! the waist or bips. It has sudden. ly taken the place of the crepe de chine sasb. the ornamental! leather belt or the satin girdle. It is chosen in a colour that con-i trasts with the frock. It should: not match it.
4
It
One of the other coloured or.. gandie frocks which bas caused public attention is in that lavon-i der tone we call orchid. sounds rich. Its width is aug- mented by small rules' which billow around it like surf. Toac- centuate the orchid tone of the material there is a purple taffeta hat, a bunch of purple grapes at the waistline and a purple parasol.
When the dressmakers have organdie left over from any frock; they use it up as rules for taf- feta gowns,
We would have gazed with amazement last sum-i
woman wearing a mer upon a Spanish-skirted frock of black taf fats trimmed with scallops of white organdie, increasing the size of the hips beyond what na- ture ever intended. This sum- mer the appearance of the same frock causes that kind of excite ment which precedea imitation and accompanies-admiration.
Some of the most successful evening dresses are being made. in taffetas of changing bue. There is a model of shot blue and pink "which has s'flat bodice and a wide]
4.12.
A top-Pate green, orgawdiv
goma trimmed with deep lands of battive work nude from strips of organdie. Short green petticoat? finishert with tore downy shoes Through Lattice work.
Afternoon gown of heary white chiffon with chrysanthemums of black chiffon applied to surface. The long, open Meeres are edged with black,
Al left-Gown for young girl of orchid-coloured organdie. A fell skirt is covered with smult rules. bunch of purple grapes is ut waist. The light bodice is finished with ruffles at neck.
Joval decollete in silk lattice work, i with a pink rose embroidered here and there. Over the slightly full skirt floats gold tulle embroidered with rings of pink roses, and from jone hip hangs a tulle sash nearly to the feet. It is young and fresh and suitable for a girls first
season.
The sheath-like figure is rival- ling the long-waisted full-bipped silhouette, and women are inclin- ed to think they must choose one at the other. But an authority on dress is strongly of the opinion that every woman should be dress- ed to sait ber. particular figure and not by any hard and fast rule. The waistline can only be determined when the dress is being fitted. Long sleeves.or short depend entirely on the shape. of a woman's arm and hand.
ODDS & ENDS OF FASHION.
High collars or low must be de pendent on the length and shape of the nook and profile, and the length of a skirt should be decid- ed in relation to feet and ankles.
Sunshades are likely to be decorative an When one looks shrough old
many, occasions. fashion books and sees the foolish A leaf-brown taffetas dreas, with way in which our ancestors dress a touch of orange in the lining of ed, one feels that women are now have a small orange sunshade, the sash or Boating drapery, will
(in some ways'more reasonable,
and wise. Waists are no longer not quite so largy as the hat to pinched, nor microbes gathered}
which it forms a background. â from the ground by trailing skirts taffetas dress in shot mauve and There is, indeed, much to be said green will have a frilly sunshade for modern dress, and though it
There will in green and manve. sometimes falls short of loveliness be plaid sunshades, and many in and good taste it generally leavesį bright sits, lace, and figured the lungs room to act and the muslins. The rival to them is the digestive organs free to do their big hat.
work. High heels are the most
harmful things in modern dress,
but even these are not so high as A new thing is an umbrella they were last season. Theru is handle covered with alligator yet another good point about skinWe are quite used to modern dress: it demands a slim handles covered with pigskin, but figure, and this has caused many these covered with alligator skin women to diet themselves. Fash-are a novelty. They are worth lion encourages women to take while, too. The wooden handle
exercise.
is closely covered with the skin
The hats which will surmount and there is a bracelet strap of it these airy frocks are appropriate and the ferrule, short and stobby. ly seductive. The shops of the is covered with it. modistes are full of them. „There
¡is one that I recall with joy: of
•
lovely
pale pink organdie, generous in I have seen some size, and with slightly rolled back cigarette cases made out of the brim, it is wreathed with black elaborate mother-of-pearl and and white grapes. One can but carved ivory cardcases that our note the prevalence of fruit as grandmothers used to carry in jtrimming for hals.
the hand when they went a-visit-
A broad-brimmed hat of deep g. In some instances tha rose organdie is encircled with a original case is a little narrow for garland of white grapes; another the corpulent cigarette, so that i offaintest maize is adorned with bas to be slightly widened at the black cherries, and with Isaves of sides. But the adaptation is well green cire ribbon, while broad hats worth while carrying out, for the of red horse-hair bear a burden of effect is often lovely. ripe red strawberries.
One might say that a masteri modiste is playing with wonder-
ful virtuosity on that theme of
A
TO HOLD NEGLIGEE.
the toque, whether of satin or or two other shades combined, Blue georgette over rose taffeta straw; sometimes it has a move can be used for a lovely and useful ment towards the back, and some-bag. It is made like an ordinary times a fringe of aigrettes fall-bag except that it opens at the ing to the nape of the neck with bottom as well as at the top. It graceful mien.
may be trimmed with narrow All the toques of this season ribbon and tiny silk flowers. It bave a sort of visor, barely is especially designed to hold visible, but sufficient to shadow dainty negligees which can be. the eyes. It is distinguished and slipped out of the bag without very, becoming.
becoming wrinkled.
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Summer frock of red and white dotted coile trimmed with edges of red taffeta cut in points There is deep white fichu of chiffon. The white hut is trimmed with scurf of red voile.