Page
FROCKS FOR THE
"SUB-DEB"
It is not very much use trying Another dress on similar lines, to make the "sub-deb" realise the same shoulder treatment and --how lucky she is in regard to the slightly more intricate about the frocks that people make for her waistline, was made of a new to-day, and that even the most material. Taffetas velvet they conservative of parents accept call is, and it is really a klad But she does react a trifle drama- of finely ribbed velvet with a tically when
thai you explain
taffetas back... In this cise it white used to be positively the WELS In SO Heavenly a blue, "only" wear for young girls, that - colourful though, neither" deep the frock was seldom very well nor hard, that the "designer had cut or interesting in texture at wisely refrained from adding that; that its skirt was all too any trimming, and
band the frequently accordion pleated; which crossed the front and back that white hair-ribbons and shiny faces were considered very correct; and that even stock ings were of silk they would be either black or brown in colour and distinctly thick.
'The young giri čas still wear white, if she wants to, and if she is one of the few members of the much younger generation to whom it is kind. But it will be white net or tulle, or possibly creamy satin or dual bilstered crêpe. It will be cut to make the very best of her immature or rather too advanced silhouette ("sub-debs" are liable to either), and with it she will wear slender slippers in white crêpe or sliver kid, and gossamer-thin stockings, and something entirely satisfy Ing in the way of a wrap. This may be of velvet, or passibly vel- veteen. but in the colour she loves best, and with quilting
or
rolling or tucking to give weight and importance to collar and hem.
Dream Dresses in Soft Colours And if she does not feel happy in white, think of the choice there is for her.."
In less than half an hour one morning I sa more than a
dozea
youthful party dresses which no one but a fairy god 'mother would have dreamed of providing when I was a "sub-
deb," and even if she had been so kind one's own mother would have been more than a
startled.
"
little
green
One dress was in soft moiré, made down to the instep. Held on the shoulders by narrow straps of the moiré, it had that: delicious line right across the front and back of the shouldéza which is one of the features of this season's dresses, an old one come back. In this case it was emphasised by a deep band of coffee-coloured lace. The same frock could be made in white, or in cyclamen pink moire the cyclamen with the same coffee- coloured late and the white one with silver lace. Green slippers would be best with the green frock, but silver would be lovely with either of the other two.
K
of the shoulders and went round the tops of the arms was in the velvet instead of lace.
A pale turquoise dress WAS made in bitstered crêpe: this time with a V-décolletage, wing- like pleces curving out to the shoulders both back and front. It had a swathed belt of its own material with a paste buckle.
A frock for the kind of girl who looks her best ip a very fragile material was made in net, the
colour of Parma. violets. The bodice was tight and neat and short, with tiny puff sleeves and a shallow ourd décolletage; the skirt very full and long, with carrow bands of gold gaion to stiffen its fullness, and used to edge the bodice and put out the sleeves. Gold kid silppers would. be permissible with this, but crêpe ones dyed to an exact match would be better, and the wrap could be in a deeper tone of violet, cr in that soft brown which is so lovely with all the violet shades, and is practical for other dresses, too.
Brown net is a thought worth holding for some young people. It is unusual, but it can be ex- ceedingly good with a fair skin and bright eyes and well-brushed häir. So can some of the darker blues, especially in cases where the allhouette is more trouble- some than the complexion, be-... cause they give more sler-der- lines than the paler colours..
In some cases, where a girl has too little colour of her own, too much. wisdom to begin applying it too early, and not very much self-confidence, there is much to be said for giving some of the brighter, colours & trial It astonishing what a difference the the right colour can make to the morale of a diffident young per- son,
There is a coral which lends some of its own warmth to the checks; turquoise and one or two greens can produce similar re- sults by means of contrast, and there are some, blues and greens, on the other hand, which are in- valuable for toning, down much ruddiness.
foo
It is a comparatively easy mat- 'ter to find the right kind of party dress for almost any girl to-day, whatever her particular type; but a thing which both the "sub- deb", and her mother find more difficult is the semi-evening dress- The dress, that is, that she can wear on quiet. and informal oc- casións af home or abroad. Summer dresses are definitely out of the winter picture, and although a long aftemoon dress may strike the right note for the older. woman, it is not in the wardrobe of the earlier teens.
Taffetas in a dark colour, navy. blue or deep red bottle green is asound choice, moderately lotig in the skirt, with short or three-
low V or equare or round neck quarter sleeves and only a shal
"
HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, MARCH 1, 1935.
Colour Contrasts Give THE CHANGING New Values To Dress
The "Splash"-Spotted Silk Scarves.
"And Berets-Apricot Vogue
There is a desire to secure great variety of colour contrasts. The "splashed" note of "colour can be so gay and forms such a pleasing antidote to winter quits and en- sembles. Colour is now exten- sively used. In the popular uni- form of black or velvet jersey the whole effect is changed by a waistcoat in the old familiar striped Roman-silk. There is that new, scarf made in spotted taf-". reta or striped silk that, with n matching beret has a pleasing. way of suggesting that we had suddenly got new spring clothes!
Even an "old" splash of colour in a belt or collar can change our appearance entirely. Tea-rose or apricot is good as a "splash" with the all-black or all-white
ensemble, as, yellow may be a trying shade, especially that new yellow-ochre-the Victoria tone. It is fashionable and very smart where it suits. American tailor- sutta in black or brown tweed show a good deal of apricot and this yellow in the facings-kiso mixed with the darker tone for the self-edged border. Butter- cup and pale and deepest sprlebt appear in the spring hats. The fabric straws and shining brims in black or very dark brown show small clusters of buttercups, the pale primrose or dark apricot pansies.
Black and Yellow
A wool suiting in black for tra- vel was worn with a deep yellow and black-striped silk blouse. The hat here was of black feit with a straight yellow quit. Many grey and black tweeds are woven with a pale softer straw shade...
White canvas crepes are good for the South when worn angora blouses and white pull-overs, the cuffs, belt and collar being fleck- ed with new-sweet-pea shades. The most vivid of all splashes are the striped Roman aliks, ke the sashes of long ago thick heavy fabric that has warmth and substance for early spring. These new Roman-silk blouses have short sleeves with scarf- drapery or a wide jabot as a neck- finish, Many of them have been ordered for cruising, but silk la not too good for sea or hot days-
still, it gives colour on the ship..
Stripes For Town
These stripes for blouses and waistcoats when in the best fab- rics and also in the_more_sub- dued colourings look their best worn with the town suit. They give the air of the town outât as against Woven wool.or 81k.
Strongly coloured stripes will give place to pastel tones as warmer weather comes.
Both young and older women are giving much for thought to the allocation of clothes suitable
to environment.
The cinema-cocktail-dress...... is- severely smart, though the tea- gown of the country house may"
The be graceful and trailing. typical artistic party of to-day may show some exotic and won- derful clothes, but they will sel-
dom be dowdy or ridiculous. -
A word on the fabrics for the first Dress Shows. Crepes in cot- ton, wool and silk are great" fav-. ourites; there seems so many new shades and weaves. It is these new methods of weaving that ring the greater change. The rougher surfaces are, I think, the smart- cst, especially in pastel colouring. The earliest linens look more like wool materials (or even" tweeds. There are many coloured stripes or threads of contrast woven and interwoven in both crepe and Un- en. Tortaz is the name of a popu→ lar crepey fabric. Flecks or splas- hes-of-colour-again-seem-intro
duced into many of the new wea-
ves.
SILHOUETTE
Dropped Shoulders Flounced Skirts.
The silhouette varles from A to 2 with Piguet, who either wraps you found in the slimmest sheath of fat or spiral persuasion, ar arranges voluminous folds set to start from above the knee.
One of the Intter gowns
is
design
flounced In
and
in glazed Chinta black ground displaying 8. floral
the
skirt 18 that ingenuous ga- thered way of the late 90's. This hangs to the ground and trails slightly at the back. A neat cor- sage with dropped shoulders seta off short puffed Victorian sleeves.
But he approaches the 90's also" in another manner-and what a manner in terims of a' faded grey and white small printed checked taffeta that is smoothed at the hips from where it flows into a gored skirt depth to the ground.
This model will bring variety to semi-dinner-evening gowns with
its
the atted jacket hiding discreet decollete surrounded by : the minutest white goffered frill. The small hat is true to type with a dip in front,
Mavo's
HONG KONG HOPPE Summer Straws in all shades
Ready made
and
To be made up to your
Individual taste.
&ve
Opposite Hong Kong
Hotel
*South
Arcade,
Gloucester Building.
Expected by
the
President Van Buren Smart Washing
FROCKS,
China Building Prices Moderate.
HOLLYWOOD FASHION
PARADE
What The Stars Are Wearing
This is the time of year when Hollywood becomes a dazzling fashion parade-when the stars attend the Important functions
in gowns cut on the very latest" pattern.
Among the outstanding models at the opening of a new club the " other day was the gown worn by Marlene Dietrich-star or Para- mount's CAPRICE ESPAGNOL.
Carried out in black crepe with the slimmest silhouette imagin- able, Miss Dietrich's gown had a closely fitting tunic which ter- minated about two inches above the knees. The tightly draped skirt was full towards the front, an effect achieved by a godet set underneath.
The decolletage was square in front and at the back and al- though Miks Dietrich's shoulders were bare wide hands of silver. fox caught just under the arms formed the tops of her long tight sleeves, On one wrists Dietrich wore a striking emerald and diamond bracelet, on other one of rubies,
THE BEST-DRESSED
WOMAN
the
CLAUDETTE'S NEW HAT
mount's THE GILDED LILY, has Claudette Colbert, star of Para-
just bought a new type of hat to go with her many sports costumes.
The hat, in brown antelope
·with: a two-inch brim, is" sur- prisingly slashed right
up the crown and then laced together with matching brown leather thongs. This is especially entec- tive with Miss Colbert's red- glinted hair showing through the lacing..
LADY IN RED
player, who will appear with
Gall Patrick, the Paramount. Bing Crosby, star of HERE IS MY HEART, In his next picture "Mississippi", is known in Holly wood as "the lady in red", as that is her favourite colour and she wears it at every available opportunity.
Her latest gown is a gorgeous model for the evening in claret. The frock is close-fitting but, was while the back is bare, velvet
Another effective Kown worn by Carole Lombard, recent
A little jacket of identical trend » ly elected Hoolywood's best
is * RUMBA.”
In black taffeta, but short in dressed woman, whose next film
front and bob-talled at the back, covers the strapless corsage of another model in the picturesque group. It is in canary yellow and wide black checked organza, with the circular-skirt more or less fat in front but rolling into a series
Vaguely reminiscent of
an Irene Castle style was this grey chiffon gown with full circular skirt opened down the front and banded in a double row of platinum fox to give a bouffant
of massed futes at the back, un-effect Underneath a slim skirt
der ties of bright emerald green falling from a narrow gros-grain belt,
of gray satin shimmered. The neckline of the gown was low with a little fullness supplied with shirring
There are many decolletes of this bare-backed and shoulder Carole's wrap of grey roma was species. One in steel grey satin covered solidly by vertical rows with graduated full skirt. falling of platinum fox and tied around long beneath a fiat sprayed Eliza the waist, giving an
smmsing bethan corsage topped by a fluted bloused effect. border.
E
The scene changes to a Grecian draped gown in Rose de France pink heavy glik mat jersey and
**
AN EARRING FAD
Kathleen Burke, featured
a demure gown with a rustic char- acter. It is in apple-green spon gey linen and has a high dateau: Paramount's great spectac decollete, puit elbow sleeves cut LIVES OF A BENGAL LANCER
in one with the corsage and a series of gathers set down the centre front. A wide red kid belt enhances this insophisticated mo del
has just launched a novel earring fad.
With
diaphanous dance frock mo of grey chiffon Miss
Coconut brown duvetyne pass zin tribute in a long cloak to an even- ing gown with brown and white floral bouqueta prin
grou
ever
The Merz
diar
flounces form a winged effect at the shoulder-line. A ruffled full- -ness at the back of the skirt suggests the bustle as interpreted by the modern designer.
MAE WEST'S CAPE
Mae West, famous Paramount ly tied NOW I'M A LADY, WEB staz, whose next aim is tentative-
seen recently wearing En
tremely smart for cape.
It is fashioned in beaver-one of this year's favourite peitsis three-quarter length not too ru and has a turnover collar. cape fastens just once at the throat, fita mugly round the shoulders and descends slight and gradual fullness.
A GALA COSTUME
Gertrude Michael,
drasaing Kashion Intiais #cold