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THINGS A GIRL SHOULD KNOW
Provisions For A Happy Life No Matter Where
HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, AUGUST 17, 1934.
LONDON FASHION NOTES
Preparing For The Autumn
We
expect so much of Our children; more, I sometimes think, of our girls than of our boys, writes a correspondent. I have a daughter who is 17, and I find that in the last six months I have expected her to know how to do these varied things.
Pass College Board examina- tions in Chemistry, French, and Latin.
Decide on her preferences among further studies with 0
view ultimately own living.
to earning her
Meet a great many strangers pleasantly.
Handle her own personal ex- penses on a small allowance.
Play golf and tennis, one in the competition' of tournaments.
Dance well.
Read Intelligently.
Do the marketing for a coun- try cottage and keep the bills within R stipulated monthly amount.
Select several evening dresses, with the understanding that each must cost less than $20, and keep on hand the right kind of clothes for her sports and activi- tles.
- Refrain from drinking without
being a prig.
took
Prevent the boys "who her out" from indulging in neck- ing.
kitchen in order
Leave the after impromptu entertaining at night, no
matter how late it
happens to be..
"
Be agreeable to her
relatives
and to those family friends in whom she has no interest,'
Drive a car without accidents. wash it, and change a tire.
Swim,
Keep some of the day for her- self.
I am slightly ashamed of that' list because there аге many things on if that I myself can- not do. None the less that is what I expected of my daughter. I do not want to cross anything of that list, and I shall probably · find myself lengthening it.
Varied Equipment Neccessary It is true that I cannot fore- tell what her individual life will be, but I can see into what divi- sions her duties must inevitably fall. She will have a business life of some sort. even if it is limited to paying her bills or shopping on credit. She will have a domestic fe almost cer- tainly, for domestic life persists even in strange new forms. She will have many social dealings with men and women. She will have personal relations with her- self.
When I say business dealings I do not mean a job.
think a girl should know to earn her living, of course. But it may --not be necessary for her to earn money continually. The sense of earning, however, the personal confidence it gives a girl, the awareness that her ability has a market value, is immeasurably valuable That knowledge_keeps ́a girl from all sorts of secret
discontents and fears..
When my daughter Anishes her schooling she will, I think, have found a way to earn her living. But if not I shall send her to a business college for a few months and then expect her to stumble about, among parties and house- holds, until she is 30 and then discover that her éducation had gone stale and that she had no method of earning except badg- cring her friends to buy trinkets or luxuries because of friendship. "The world is full of charming. dishonest women who cheat be- cause husbands. fathers, and shopkeepers wink at the notion that women always spend more than they should. Women can be just as charming if they are honest. That is why my daugh- ter must be resporisble about her spending money. That is why when, on the 28th of July, she has 13 cents and no gasoline in her car, she has to get along on foot until the first of August. »
Home Llie Si
life
It seems to me beyond ques- know tion that a girl should something about domestic and household 'management. ~~ I want her to know something of marketing, to know to make good coffee, good tea, boll a chop, make a salad and put a meal on the table without get÷ ting breathless But beyond that I leave knowledge about cookery to the pressure and temptation of her future circumsances.
I bellevé a girl should know how to take a temperature and care for a minor liness or acct- dent. She should know how to make a bed. Few do. I think she should know that there is no peace of mind in a confused or disorderly room. She should know how to arrange Hlowers And she should know how to get along with her family. In every family the effort at` har............ mony must start somewhere and man and boys succumb more easily to business moods or båd golf scores or bails.
The normal girl does not even want to imagine a life in which men play no part. Therefore
are
she should be fortified by accom- plishment for such relationa. One begins with those social re- lations which lead to closer ones between individuals" and for these a know ledge of how to dress. how to play games, how to dance, how to talk well and conduct oneself in company
the major points. She should" know that it is not necessary to be beautiful in order to be char- ming. She should know that no well-dressed person thinks about looks all the time.
She must know how her vulce, The shrill clatter of some girls' voices definitely de- stroys their charm, She shoul swim both. for safety and. for pleasure. I should let her choose her other sports.
"No Nice Girl—”
to the
There must be supplementary Knowledge of general conduct. My first principle is that a girl should know how to keep herself from being "necked." For neck- ing is utterly bad because it ex- cites both girls and boys past the point proper for their ages and habits, and because it gradually debauches a girl who can only hope that her husband will be as successful a necker as other men she has known.
I feel equally strongly about drinking. I know of no valld reason why a girl should know how to take a drink. It will do ber no physical good. And it will steadily decrease her ability to, bave a good time without drink.
But there are other things she must know in addition to all these: "For men are going to disappoint her. and jobs and work can go terribly stale. In the first place, she should know how to read. I mean that she should know how to transfer the contents of a printed page to her mind, not just skim over few
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columns of movie gossip. If possible she should be able to play the piano; for "if you are in trouble your radio wil drive you
mad but your plano, will be your comfort.
She must know how to be alone. Much of an average wo- man's life has lonely stretches th it, which will frighten, her if she has not learned as a girl the pleasure-of-being-alone.-------
A. Girl's Task, If I am demanding. It is be- cause I care so much, I know what a great burden is on the girl of to-day; and for all her apparent nonchalance, she knows it too. She must carry all the new responsibilities we can con- jure up for her. I we had a safe, settled adult world to open to a girl, if we could promise
her even a choice between Ja small job and a good man's love, It would be different. But we are so confused ourselves that we cannot distinguish between the basic and the temporary.
I knew I should find myself adding to that list. For there is another thing I must not forget." She should know, no matter if she is cheated, no matter if she is thwarted, that quarreling with men is self-destructive.
Just the Point
summer
White Pique... Accents the Im- portant navy silk for designed with wide collar and high-placed revers and Atted double-breasted closing, worn with the wide-brim white panama kat and white flared cnff sports' gloves by Jean Harlow, Star of Meiro Goldwyn Mayer pictures.
HELEN JACOBS IN "SPIKES"
English Players Impress
Forest Hills, Aug. 15. Miss Kathleen Stammers and Miss Freda James, the English Wightman Cup players, are still going strong in the American wo- mieri's national singles tennis championship. They both sur- vived thud round engagements without being the slightest bit ex- tended.
Miss Stammers met a doughty tournament player in Miss Kathe- rine Winthrop, but the English girl, playing at her best form, romped away with the match, win- ning in straight sets and сод- ceding only three games, all in the Arst set.
IMPRESIVE WIN
This was indeed an excellent ac- hievement and has considerably lifted Miss Stammers' stock. Miss Winthrop has played with signal success this summer. She finish- ed runner-up to Miss Jane Sharp in both the Mason and Dixon and the Hot Springs singles champion- ships, while at the former meeting she was also runner-up in the ladies doubles and won this event at Hot Springs.
Miss Freda James met Miss Hunt of Los Angeles and won vety comfortably without being extend- ed to the third set. The manner of her victory impressed very much...
On the other hand. Miss Helen Jacobs, reigning champion, was sent the whole distance by Mrs. Harris, another prominent tour- nament player, and actually lost the first set.
Mrs. Harris was in excellent fettle during this early perlod and broke through to Win at the twelfth
gaine. But the effort proved per undoing and she fail- ed to withstand a withering at- tack, of chop strokes and volleys from the holder, who went away with the next two sets with the loss of five games.
SLIPPERY COURT
Mis Jacobs was permitted to wear - spiked shoes-for the first time in the History of the cham- pionships because of the very slippery state of the court.
She expressed fear of injuring her left ankle which was in band- ages owing to neuritis.
The results were:
Miss K. Stammers (Britain) beat Miss K. Winthrop (US) 8-3,
8-0,
Pat appeared before the magia. trate on a charge of assault and battery, the charge having been brought by one Michael, The - Miss F. James (Britain) best Miss
Hunt (UB) 6-2, 6-4, magistrate was attemping to get
both sides of the story, and asked· · Miss H. Jacobs (UB,) beat Mrs. Pat what induced him to admin- Harris (US) 6-7, 6-2, 6-3, ister such a terrible beating to the Reuter. plaintif
"Shure, sir," said Fat, "suppose:
a man called" you- a dirty Irish scallywagwhat would you do?"
The magistrate smiled. But I'm not Irishi" he replied.
"Well," persisted Pat, "suppose he called you the kind of dirty scallywag that ye are?"
Tweed sults for Scotland point to what will be more noticeable . later in autumn woollens. The tighter texture is all to the good for tailoring, and in many home- spuns there are bright flecks of 'colour. Everything suggests, a good season for British woollen "materials.
Some very neat sults are made in of Donegal flecked tweeds multi-coloured yarns, For Beat- land there are trim double- breasted coats and skirts and three-pieces of long or three- quarter coa; and cardigan and skirt. There are also woollen coats in a modified Norfolk, style for autumn in town. "Envelope pockets displace the older and
more
useful buttoned pockets, and sometimes top pockets have been displaced by fanciful; tabs. A number of boldly patterned woollens have plaid checks on neutral grounds. These are al-
for the. ready being made up
golden autumn; and the warm yellow with brown.. over-checks checks in and grey with bold "green. royal, or red over-checks Indicate that the season will be full of colour. A number of sports frocks made of perpendi cularly striped woollens, some with the stripe in a "lightning" wavy line, also show what is to come. Scarves and necklines add an interest to these frocks and will be a feature of many of the early woollen coata "before the time for fur trimmings arrives. Some scarves made from"ravelled. velvet look like banks of wool ready for knitting, »
Hand Knitted Clothes
Hand-knitted clothes show new designs, some of which imitate materials such as Harris tweeds; the machine-knitted dresses and suits also сору tweeds and "diagorial cloths. Jumper suits for the autumn are of woollen knitted fabrics with a slightly harsh surface: knitting gives the effect of tucks in the yoke and a moss stitch is introduced to vary the design of the The "welt" at the waist is no langer seen in cardigans or Jum- pers, both of which are longer. Vividly coloured cashmere jum-- pers with rolled high necklines will go with tweed suits. Cor- duroy velvet waistcoats are also to be worn with tweed suits; à choker scarf matches the tweed and fills in the neckline. The high throat-line is shown In most woollen autumn outfits,
fabric.
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many garments will have waist- bands and brassiere tops of silk lastex fabrics.
Night Gowns Trimmed
In contrast to the simplicity of day-time lingerie, nightgowns are much trimmed with lace and fine hand-work. Tucks and smocking are used, and narrow picot-edged frills. Racine and Valenciennes are the two most popular laces, the former in a deep ecru colour, the latter dyed to match the material with which it is used. A blue georgette gown has a yoke of blue lace to match and a finely tucked centre panel hold- ing wide sash ends. A rose satin gown has a yoke of chiffon of“ the same colour finely gathered into bands; the high waist-line is finished with a satin sash. White chiffort is used for a gown of Empire linie, with smocking at the neck and walst. The hem. sleeves, and sash are Anished with narrow frills:
For negligees velvet and satin are always popular materials, but this autumn faille and brocade will be used. In addition to the more usual fat ruchings and fur and feather trimmings, massed flowers in self materials will be seen on collars, cuffs; and revers. Smocking and gauging will trim capelets and sleeves in the softer
ever.
BLACK AND WHITE
(Special Air Mail Service) · London, August 2. Black and white are as chic as At any hour of the day, for almost any activity, they make the smartest possible colour com bination. In the current issue of Vogue we are shown some lovely models in black and white. Fionnet day ensemble consists of a black crepe dreas and white alpaca coat, the latter algeralesn and smartly slashed up the back
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another version of the trend towards slits). And for the even- ing, a ravishing gown of black salin from Lanvin, with huge sleeves made entirely from crisp white organdie flowers!
fabrics. For those who prefer dressing-gowns of the tailored mainnish type, plain heavy crepes and satins are used,, as well 29 linen and fine fannel. There is. also a great variety of colours. and designs in foulards and tie slika,
warm
Black stockings have been mentioned for autumn wear, but browns, dark neutral betges, gun-metal, and mole greys and even "off-black", tones, are less heavy looking and can all be worn with all black street costumes. Deep copper-brown and A satin
chestnut shades look well with brown and green sports sults. For evening wear natural skin shades will remain the most popular.
There is also a new uncrushable velvet. It has withstood every test to which it has been sub- jected and come out after little shake with its pile un- ruffled and unmarked. It has an artificial alk pile and back, and is beautifully soft; its mark-resisting properties are due
to treatment after it is made. It is in a range of new colours and is for dresses of all kinds,
This new process is specially welcomed by those who like to take a velvet frock away with them.
Plain velvets hitherto have been difficult to pack and need ironing before being worn; but the new velvet travels as well as lace.
LINGERIE
Lingerie presents a problem in the summer as the regular styles do not always fit under summer sportswear. Manufacturers have given special attention to making cool and practical foundation garments and light cotton open- meshed materials have. been combined with elastic. Two-way stretch elastic and lastex are used for girdles to be worn under shorts and bathing suits. Bras- sleres have the halter neckline which is one of the most popular · for sun-bathing suits, and slips have low-cut backs. There are. lingerie sets in cotton, voile and batiste with dainty Sowered designs for the very hot daya and dance sets in lace-trimmed lawn which are suitable for wear- ing under cotton and linen even- ing gowns.
For the early autumn both day and evening dresses will have
long, simple lines, with closely waist, and hips. The lingerie moulded effect at the shoulders,
worn under these gowns must be perfectly fitting. Batin and crepe de Chine will be used for day- time wear, cut on the blas, so as to follow the lines of the igure; and untrimmed, except for a narrow binding, finely stitched seams, and embroidered Initial. Evening lingerie will be equally simple and the materials wUI 'be georgette and triple ninön, To ensure smoothnesk
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TRI-COLOUR SCHEME
Dusky Green, Lucifer—a fam- ing.red as its name suggests— and Spindrift, will form the new tri-colour scheme for the autumn..
Spindrift is: the newest of the of-whites with the green hue of vaves mingled with seafoam,
New Colours
Some attractive new coloura were to be seen at the headquar- ters of the British Colour Coun- cil when seven groups of sum- mer and autumn tints had a first showing. Victorian plum and postillion green were featured, the first novelty being among a series of red, which promise: to become popular very soon. The shade favoured was without the överpowering brilliance of re- cent experiments In this "direc- tion, but a certain warmth.re-- mained. In contrast the latest. green was described, not inac- curately, as a "high note," hay Ing a dash of blue in its com-.. position. To-day's show. dealt with the blending, of colours rather than the actual manufac ture of garments but a special "co- relation chart had been drawn up for the occasion so that gloves, hoalery fors, and shoes might match the main schémies. of future gowns. In spite of this official veneer, experts had not forgotten how to invent fanciful names, a few of the labels be- ing moorhen, vapour grey, air- way mist, comft green and for grey. Evidently the last was an urban idea.
Mayo's
HONG KONG
TIPPE
Just A Few More Left of those SNAPPY HATS.
HATS, CLEANED, DYED
AND
REMODELLED
South Arcade.
Eve
Big selection
of
Very Smart Washing GLOVES in White and Biege.
China Buildings (Opposite the Hong Kong Hotel).
Gloucester Building.
The powder brush should be used to blend powder over face and neck, so no "powder lines" show, demonstrated by Muriel Evans Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer player.
THE WHITE COAT
Necessity for Summer parts immerse the coat in the
Wardrobe
For many women a cost of white or pale-coloured blanket cloth is one of the necessities of a summer wardrobe. "No" other single garment will serve so many purposes while on holiday or at home, and perhaps no other so perfectly combines comfort with good looks. At the same time, there is one drawback which de- ters some of the economically minded from such a possession This is the consideration of clean- ing
After a week's wear. the fully surface, of a white coat in particular, has lost that freshners which is one of its prime charms, the creases of the sleeves become grimed, and the collar, where the neck touches it, shows a line of of solled, powder which militates against daintiness; What then? If we send it to the cleaners it is absent for several days at the last, It puts us to considerable expense, and, once chemically cleaned, a garment is far more difficult to wash with soap and water, if, în-... deed, such treatment is any longer practicable from fear of undue shrinkage owing to the wet chemi- cals. That is to say, we should really need two such coats, with one of them always away being chemically cleaned." ;
The other way, however, is to wash the coat at home, and this is a perfectly simple business if only it be set about in the right. way, especially the first time. The only serious difficulty, which is the drying, is obviated during the summer months by all those who have either an outside drying place, or a room where there is e. sufficient.current" of "air. - Well washed, a blanket coat should need almost no ironing, and, if the stuff is of fair quality to start with, it will actually gain in ap
•pearance after each home wash- ing
Warm Waterto If you have not a tub, large' enough, use the bath for washing your coat. Make a good lather With warm--not too hot water and soap fiskes, and, having soap ed beforehand any specially dirty
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lather. Squeeze and swill it about, but do not rub much. The dirt wili come out without much persua- sion. Rinse in a second warm water, and then finish with clear. cold rinsing-in soft water if pos- sible. When removing from the bath, roll and squeeze the mate- rial, pressing out the water, but refrain from wringing, and if you have a wringer in the house do not let it be too tight as the coat " passes through it. Wrapping the coat in a large bath towl, and patting and, squeezing" it there, will help to expel the moisture and hasten drying, but if there is a good green and breezy weather outside this precaution is un- necessary.
The most important thing of all is the way you hang the coat out to dry. Do not peg it to the line or hang it on a coat-hanger. If you do you are in for trouble later. Instead, have a long cur- tain rod (half-inch diameter is strong enough) of plain or en- arhelled, but not of stained, wood, and slip it right through both the sleeves of the coat, beginning at the wrist of one sleeve and com- ing out at the wrist of the other in such a way that the garment la fully extended in the manner of a scarecrow. By tying a loop of string midway on the rod, where the collar of the coat comes, it can be fastened to swing and spin on the clothes line. As the water drips down to the hem it can be gently wrung off. The pockets should be turned out and," after a time., the coat taken off, turned inside out, and replaced on the rod. In this way it will. dry surprisingly quickly and it will not lose its shape in the least degree.
If any ironing is necessary it will merely be by way of pressing the back of the dollar and the lapels, and possibly the flaps of the pockets and the pockets themselves. But as often as not the coat is ready to wear as soon as it is dry. On a fine summer night when the weather prospect seem, settled, it is a good plan to wash a woollen coat in the even ing and put it out to hang all. night. It will then be bone dry soon after breakfast