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HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, JUNE 22, 1934.
Mid-Season Clothes For The What The Well-Dressed Woman Is Doing
Evening
Although must, dressmakers
concentrating on alt
Gay-time clotnes in their mid-season shows, paying special attention to sports and cruising outfits, several of the smart salons have held dis- plays of evening gowns during the
last week.
Probably the range of mater ials regarded as suitable for even- ing wear has never been so var- led as it is this year.
"Little Frocks"
Some dresses are quite frankly made of cotton-muslins soft or stiffeped, laens plain or printed, cotton nets, cotton volles. They arc as simple in style as they are In fabric, but the muslin ones in particular
are charming, with their drooping bodices, full foun- ced skirts, and broad sashes tied The in huge bows at the back linen mods are more tailored". In .. style. th trimly moulded skirts, plain bodices, and quite wide shoulder straps. Nets and voiles must necessarily be made. up in rather fluffy fashion, and again you get the frills and foun- ces, and the charmingly demure corsage of Victorian inspiration.
Silk Dresses"
Then we have what I call the "simple silk dresses"in various crepes, satins georgettes and taf- feta-made, on more or less pic- turesques, lines. The long skirt
Aares from the knees, and the bodice is frequently. completed by a pretty berthe" or fichu. in the form of broad strapes, edged with great features of youthful frocks, and no one can deny that they are charming.
A practical semi-evening dress of patterned tussore in shades of belge and brown has been made for incfusion in a smart girl's crusing outfit. It is practical in that it will serve later as a dainty frock to wear, with a "picture" hat at afternoon parties on land. The outstanding note is the swir- ling collar, terminating on the right shoulder where it is gather- ed into an open fan shape by an amber clip. There are short puff sleeves, and at the waist is a narrow belt of self-material fas- tened with an amber buckle.
Another model in the "simple silk" group is developed in green, red and yellow, plaid taffetas. Here again the unusual note is struck-this time by the corsage, which is brought right up to the throat in front, and extended in the form of broad strapes, edged with killed red tafetas, over the shoulders and down the back. There is also a huge bustle bow, the ends similarly, edged with klited red taffetas,
Sophistication
To turn to more sophisticated gowns, the choice of materials is equally varied, and the styles are equally attractive.
model
The blouse-and-skiri does not sound particularly sop- histicated, but you will agree that It is when I tell you that it comprises a skirt of rich black satin, and a blouse of white chii- fon hand-painted with a conven- tional design in black and dull blue. The blouse is actually a
kind of glorified cape, put on moulded wack to front over, a
sasını、IË Joundation of white
comes high in front, and low at the back where it is caught down to the lining with a blue enamel CLIP.
The lace frock must be includ- ed in this group, and one char- ming model specially mentioned. It is black-is anything more use- ful and becoming than the black lace dress?-and the lace is slightly selfened. so that the slashed sleeves stand out' just above the elbows in petal-like nutes. Some more fuking petals decorate the front of the bodice, and at the waist is a. black velvet sash, shaped to come down over the hips at the aldes and fasten-. ed with a jade buckle in front, I like the deâant touch of green on the woman who can carry is off.
Rich marocains and remaines are used for some lovely statues- que gowns, cut on perfectly plain Princess lines. Blue tones figure among them, and there is a shade of rather dark green which looks extremely well, in these rich" ma- terials. Ike white, too, for the woman who carry it off.
I must tell you of a dress made entirely of wide black satin rib- bon, the bands joined with bar stitching in silver thread, and
silver sewn with
sequins. The sequins do not completely cover the ribbon, by any means, but arranged to look like groups of stars here and there. It is a clever gown. The ribbon is joined on the diagonal for the skirt, and the bodice is made of four wid- ths two in front and two at the back-with pointed top edges which are caught by narrow. black shoulder straps.
lovely dance dress made for a Sociéty bride was carried out chiffon. in ice-blue
the bodice. draped halter-wise, and the skirt. rather fuller than usual, dotted over with dark blue applique vel- vet sash outlined the waist; and was fastened with a row of four Ice-blue glass buttons.
Dress Magic In Inches
(Special Air-Mail Service)
London, May 23.
"..
For some time past there has been the tendency to wear lighter and contrasting tops with dark skirts. This vogue "is extending into the summer collections, and there are already a number of loose sac coats in white silk and in wool also in printed crepes and some for semi-evening wear in damask and painted taffetas. They are worn over plain dark skirts of wool.
This wonderful variety of coats will be more popular than the capes. To be able to have a sleeve is a more comfortable fashion, and more practical for uur climate, by day or evening. There also seems a desire for the fitted. or semi-fitted, 1880 jacket, which though quaintly old-fashioned, when in black falle and bordered with a ruche or gauging of satin can, in modern hands. be very smart. These jackets are mostly cut well over the hips, but are worn shorter than the tunic, which is best when it just clears the knee.
Let The Figure Decide
I am always interested in the
question of lengths, whether it be "
for a coat or skirt, or warp of any sort. Women do not suf- clently understand that all great dress artists-though they may tell their clients the number of inches decreed by fashion-realise that this is largely an individual dress point. The proportions of the wearer. style and certain characteristics should influence the choice. It is startling to see how women will suddenly appear silm and tall instead of short and stout. If the matter be carefully looked into. It will be discovered that the changed appearance is fargely a question of clever arran- gement of lengths, which can be carried out without much depar- ting from the current mode.
I remember a genius in the dress world of pre-war days asser- certain types should ting that wear skirts to the calf, and coats to the hips; that the long three- quarter coat should have a skirt nearly ankle-length, but caught in and not fluted. This was the tube-silhouette, which was slim and becoming, after many folds of fabric flopping, round the ankles.
London
Summer-time fashions. frum printed satin and silks, sequins and lace evening frocks, to Ascot outfits' of white stiffened lace, or taffetas and organdie in navy and white, hold London's shop- land.
·
ot
Sometimes summer frocks patterned volle or organdle have wreaths of artificial flowers
on
the shoulder fichu drapery, Huge bats, blossom trimmed."share fifty-fifty favour 'with small straws and allks and fabric mo- dels. Some small hats have dainty feather shaded crowns to match parasols similarly shaded
Bows and cravats, frilled and spotted, but "all fancy," are a great vogue; so are mock fronts and scarf blouses and open work Jumpers of all materials, knitted
else patterned satina and spotted muslins.
The white sult, of fancy plque is tailored: the white dress severely cut, with a belt coarsely knitted, riven through the girdle.
New York
True to tradition, this year's "debs," in common with their hold the opinion predecessors. that it's wise to be sophisticated, but not so wise to look it.
Evening ensembles are so de- mure that they'd make a crino- line blush for shame. Most of the dresses are in floral taffetas or amusing crinkled cottons and supported by capelets or "mon key" jackets of plain taffetas.
High waists are back again," and sashes, and many of the skirts are gathered towards the back in bunchy folds or rather Apple dashing fantails. more green. Colonial peach, egg blue and pink are here to big num- bers.
.
Sports clothes for the country clubs and resol i have arrived on a wave of white, and it really.
dazzling white in its most Is form.
- One of the favourite materials is a roughish cotton, and it is fashioned into Jaunty little jac-" ket suits Sailor kerchiefs pro vtde bright splashes of colour in red, blue or emerald & blb in the
the back.
Peak caps of knitted wool In open work patterns can be stitfront, and they tie in a bow at ched on to naval-looking yach- ting caps. Linen handbage, are as and useful as they are smart, and white is as favoured for "dress" handbags. for day-time as it is going to be as summer the smartest of proceeds for
shoes.
All manner of lavishly be ruled tulic or organdie capelets and shaded boas of organdle are be- Some- ing worn for evening. times this fancy is varied by little coatees of net with hand-made applique roses to trim them.
In a great measure all the in- novations of late regarding con- trast in colour and fabrics and the changing of lengths to sult the style and requirements of the Individual, make for the general well-dressed appearance butantes and their chaperons. the The sudden shortening, of tailor-mades too is a good change providing the movement is not too exaggerated.
of de-
The shorter skirt should follow automatically in the wake of the many little short jackets that are popular. The sac-kind of coat just reaches to the walst, whilst the more sporting cardigans and the old-world shaped jacket fit well over the hips. There are just a few fly-away monkey Jackets. in some sumptuous material: others are in white pique.
Tie silks are favourites for day- time dresses, which are cut to cling to the gure and are often trimmed with elaborate frills to form berthe shoulder lines. The hems have deep pleated flounces
Natural grey alpaca is used for" slenderly-cut tailored ensembles trimmed with broad black patent leather belts and huge patent leather buttons. Wide, fat brim- med sailor hats complete the scheme.
BUTTONHOLE BLOOMS
(Special Air Mall Service)
London, June 6.
or- For personal adornment
are the chids and gordenias most fashionable selection, with carriations as a good runner-up. These are particularly good as they retain their freshness "throughout a day or evening, and the commercial orchid, too, is practically without perfume, so will not prove overpowering either to the wearer or her near neighbour.
Practically any flower may be worn. but roses are not advised as they soon begin to take on a Shoulder jc ded appearance. sprays look well for day func- tions. while corsage sprays and be worn in the necklaces may evening.
1:
Paris
Fashions are at their best now in Paris. Beauty of cut is mat- ched only by the lovely designs of the materials.
Yesterday at the Ritz I saw a charming outfit, the elegance ot which was
to the largely due
was of white material, which taffetas, irregularly chequered in black and white with a discreet interweave of gold thread.
The short sleeves were made of
a flounce, gathered at the upper part to form a kind of corolla. while a short cape, with similar- ly flounced border. matched the dress.
Near by I noticed a well-known Parisienne in a smart tailor-made sult in soft twilled slik, a kind of surah. the colour being a natu- ral string shade,
Both skirt "and jacket (with the exception of the sleeves) had an all-over effect in vertical nat pleats.
All over the jacket the pleats were bound by decorative lozenge- shaped stitching, and it was fas tened from top to bottom with large crystal buttons. The collar. was formed -high in the front.
of
the
a big pleated ruche of same material, as, the sult,
Perhaps the most amusing fan- tasy, and certainly a very char- ming one:
tailor-made was a costume almost severely classic in cut and line, but made in a delightful Bowered silk material..
Walnut Novelties
Fun can be had over an after- dinner dessert by providing guests cloves sultanas. with walnuts. fruit-jubes and taoth-picks, and inviting them to make "tortoises," as follows:
L
Shell the walnuts carefully so as to preserve the shells in equal halves. Take a frult lozenge, and stuff it into the half-shell. I you have provided the right sized sweet it will just the shell. Stick a wooderi tooth-pick right through the lozenge so that the ends sick out below the walnut shell when it is inverted.
Now stick a raisin upon one, end for a head. The other serves for the tail Remove the small balls from the cloves so that the points look like claws. Stick four cloves Into the lozenge to serve as feet.
This amusing novelty will al- so appeal to children at a family gathering.
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GARDEN PRINTS
(Special Air-Mall Service)
London, June 6.
When summer frocks "say it with flowers," garden prints have t all their own way. They have never looked loveller, On the whole motifs are small, and un- til recently the "pansy" in either two or more natural colours" on a lightground won my heart. "Bruyere has now caught me.in a coll for bolder colours still on dark backgrounds, such as black and naty-or the hue that rests between it and royal blue..
Not only do these dark grounds "
stress the latest note in elegance for smart occasions, but they seem to bring with them a sup- erior slimming, induence beneath splashes of colour in a new red called minium." Asiatic yellow, and a vivid green between grass and emerald. Imagine the galety of a small garden print in this new red and green mixed with white on a dark blue ground.
Then there le'a holly leaf print on black with a red button shoul- der fastening. "Minlum" is somewhat peler than lacquer, in fact it is the red lead tint used as a basis when lamp posts "are destined to be refreshed" by new coat of paint.
В
"'Aslatic" "means, an intense yellow that spreads into a nar- cissus print mingled next white oh a dark blue ground. This is made up with dainty
DETTOW
gros-grain belts and neckties
of the plain yellow.
These belts surmount the new" idea on
lines.
(or
- 11
wrapover skirt
crepe
They are, cuts on the blas with diagonai the overlap taking "ạ line from one hip to the centre front. A reverse movement oc- curs, when "minium" red is used
plain frock of "Hawala." The bodice fastening commences the diagonal faste ning on to buttons that tone from one shoulder to just beyond the centre front when a straight line takes the wrapover on to a few. more buttons and then veers off In a corresponding sense to the
bodice:
A new fashion for composition 'clips is the scarlet poppy, and marguerite one which sometimes forms a motit at high neck and waist line on white frocks. They look charming, too, on navy blue and white spotted · Chine "model clamped back to back, as lt were, and perching alightly away from the outline.
There is a burnish sliver metal marguerite as well that forms the only motif at the high neckline of a dress and crown of a hat. The fern-like leaf of metal takes, the form of a belt buckle to cor respond with a high neckline fastening.
Fastenings become more and more "original with pale white hands gripping a coat of navy. blue down the centre front and
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Round leather buttons are an- other invasion, and they look saddler-made with embossed ed- ges rising beyond a round of
white machine stitching. Talking of Invasions, brown with white is Ilable to encroach on touches of black and navy, since the alliance won renown with a first prize at the Ambassadeurs in a con cours de la "Femme elegants ét son chien," a prelude to the "Grande Semaine when race meetings luminated by flood lighting are anticipated at Long- champ.