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Halo Hats And New Ornaments
"THE NEW FASHIONS WILL BE
HARD TO COPY"
All the collections show perfect and intricate workmanship in the new models. It is indeed a phase for trimming,
Every excuse is made for put- ting a ruching, a row of buttons, tucks outside on the seams of
coats and frocks, and frills whère they can show.
The new fashions will be hard to copy Dress pirates will have their work cut out!
At Jenny's as usual, intricate ..embroidery, open-work on tule dresses, massed gauging and shirring on satin wraps. strips and bands, and outstanding flaps on tweed coats and tailleurs" were prominent, writes a corres- pondent in the "Evening News,"
J
The tunic frock, with all its grace and utility, is demonstrat-
sleeves, with their lavish fancy- work.
A wedding gown by Jenny, In white satin, stressed the train gauged at the sides as the prin- cipal feature. It floated LWAY from the, nun-like gown (which was cut hight in front); and, from a graceful halo dladem, masses of tulle.
At Le Monnier's this morning. 'saw still some more shallow. crowned alde tilted hats: but these were defnitely pictorial," and inspired by old portraits..
One had a bandeau, finished with a cluster of mpire, silk ribbons; and, in front, showed a chromium clasp where it was caught up. The other was plainer, buc also very tip tilted, and plate crowned.
ed, especially in plainish printed A Turban of Shiny Horsehäir
silk, check or plaid-patterned silk...
Jenny has some white printed slk tunics огд over black hobble skirts, and Anished with halo bonnets halo veils!
Metal Thread and Waxed String
She shows three-quarter · lain- age coats in thin but warni weaves, and coats and skirts (as well as trocks) "made of a new fabric which has cire and wool woven together in its compost- tion: another is made up of metal threads and waxed string and wool mixed. These are in back and the metal or lacquer shines through the wool effec- tively.
The backs of frocks and coats here, as elsewhere. show the in- terest. Evening frocks show double lines of draping coming from the back of the knees, for- ming a kind of double panel train. There were one or two vivid printed silk frocks, and a number of black" taffetus and tace.
Brushed wool cord telts, half sleeves (which begin below the elbow and turn back before the wrists) are used. In white far.cy organdle.
The Interest in Sleeves Coat revers stand "out" instead of "up, and in lozenge shapes. Leg o'mutton sleeves show them- selves as pulled out just "above." or "at" the elbow, and then are tight. Shoulders are uninteres- ting, unless Jenny decides to envelop them in a quaint pique hood, which looks rather like a serviette, bery stiffly arranged in" a fancy turned-down shape, Or" if she gives them a wide enve- loping bib, plain in
buttoned behind.
front and
Tailored suits had ght, fairly
long skirts.
This hat, of a Sailor and
Bowler
1
For restaurant wear a horse- hair turban, varnished and glis- 'tening, was the newest kind of bonnet sponsored by this house. Pale rose panama suede made another fiat yet abbreviated bowler crowned sailor.
A pill box sailor hat" I saw later in the day looked as if it was a doll's hat, as it was perched, a saucy affair of blue straw, away high up on the wearer's curls!
Capes of All Kinds Agnes-Drecoll showed smart tweed caped coats.
some
In contrast to Jenny's tailored princesse fitting coats here, there oval cape often fur- was an edged; and the neck-line was finished by a bow.
The coatée zouave is "the" point about the evening outfit. and is eclipsed only by very much Elizabethan kimono wrap
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1
A panama linen sallor hat had a tiny pair of red wing stuck near the front on the brim. It mixture, of the coat mate- was rtal. Many of the capes were detachable.
A gold tissue rever, belt and pinafore blouse was a striking part of a black outfit. White pique bows were worn as a neck- line finish to black caped coats.
A black satin jacket had its Nared basque outlined with white fur and a white, coarse" Ottoman silk blouse finished into 2 bow In front accompanied It.
Loops of lynx fur trimmed the outside of the full tweed sleeves of a rust coloured wrap.
ล
For a jacket sult to have lining of coloured spot patterned jersey is another new idea I saw elsewhere.
Frilling and Made" Lace, Some of these suits have the short nared tailored coats cut away fairly generously in front, to show a fancy fabric blouse in striped material or perhaps, in the gayest of printed suk awning stripes of scarlet. black and white. like some bright Indian shawl.
"The made lace" departments of the big stores In Paris doing well.
are
Yards of organdie frilling and of coloured silk, principally eggshell blue. are being sold in narrow widths, suitable for mak- ing into "gilets" and ruffs.
And the collars and cuffs of pique. embroidered linen, and plain cotton with plaid bows, also in plaited openwork and fancy. designs, in trellis patterns, are being sold to eager buyers who know that, with such things they can make themselves look smart for the spring if the expensive models are beyond their purse.
Buttons. Hikewise, are another haberdashery "line" of prosperity at the moment: crystal, wood, galalith, chromium, and glass are selling well. So are cheery little feathered 'motifs, bright greens, scarlets. and yellows, as well a black and white
The cite flower buttonholes. such as Rosine was showing at her collection, are very SHIRTL with
"tailleur." the new
But they "must" be simple.
With a yellow silk woven jacket sult, she showed a buttonhole of yellow primroses with black leaves (all of cire). A necklet attached to a white chenille matt patterned cotton
the Bown at high neckline was of tiny cirę fuchsias in national colours.
"RICKSHAW BRAND
CELEBRATED
CEYLON TEA
SOLD BY ALL COMPRADORES
GAWARDED 10 GOLD MEDALS
· FOR PURITY, STRENGTH
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Sole Distribuitor d="
DAVIE, BOAG & Co., Ltd.
HONG KONG DAILY PRESS. FRIDAY, APRIL 13, 1934.
A TOUCH OF
TRADITION
f
Mandarin Hats Tudor
1
Tunics Dutch Skirts
Spring is coming to Paris and London and we who live in either capital are glad drab winter is at an end,
And then our thoughts turn to new clothes, and then the clothes themselves make us wonder,
Where have we seen that hat before?" Why is that coas familiar, that "sleeve, this neck- line? Why-because they've simply walked out of our history books, and those pictures we've" seen of folk of other nations.
Henry's Ladies
Henry VIII and his ladies seem to be responsible for most of our fashions this spring.
Let us first consider one of the newest swagger coats. It has a double, square collar, with high, wide lapels; it has elbow-length sleeves with turn-back cuffs from under which can be seen the long moulded line of the dress. It reaches to the knees, and, though it swaggers quite a lot in the front there is a suggestion of fit at the back of the waist. And from the waist to the hem is a single, but wide, box pleat.
Can you sce the resemblance to the garments worn by our Tudor King? Study one of his. portraits for a moment, and it will soon become, apparent.
Dainty Mustics
Then there are those attractive tunic dresses with low, square necks and shoulders straps, un- der which are worn the daintlest" and flimsiest of muslin blouses gathered in at the throat.
These bring to mind, at once. Anne Boleyn as a gay young girl" laughing at Henry through one of the mullioned windows at Hampton Court.,
Yet they are smart. Indeed. they are becoming as well, arid we will not be surprised to see them worn On many summery occasions, made up in any of the bright cotton materials of which there is such an ample choice.
And our hats. We all know about the hajo hat, and Its origin is easy to trace."
Some of the prettiest ones are adapted straightaway from those Httle lace caps with turn-back bris in the front and shaped bonnet-wise at the back which
were
warn everyday" by the ladies of the sixteenth century.
And now to jump a couple of hundred years. At one of the recent Paris dress shows. I found myself surrounded by mannequins' who, at first glance, appeared to be dressed like the gentlemen of "The School for Scandal."
Taffeta coats with highway- man collars, exaggerated gaunt- lets and blg patch pockets; very, very fine cambric blouses with ruffles down the front; hats that held just a suggestion of the tricorne.
Old Into New
And so the romance of another century is brought into a modein showroom: Fashions are adapted by clever fingers and the vivid, Imaginary powers of a modern dress designer, Period clothes, yes, but with a difference, for in some almost inexplicable way they take on that air of chic which defines the art wonian: in, every capital of the world?
But we mustn't concentrate too much on the period clothes and forget those that savour
of national dress.-
Coats and Crowns Have you ever seen a China man in full mandarin dress walk- ing through Bond-street at midday? Only. In a dream, per- haps, but later in the year you may need to rub your øyes in wonder. All the newest hate have a distinctly. mandarin air-wide shallow brims and the quaintest, fattest-looking crowns that come unexpectedly to a point.
Three-quarter length coats cut. on the cross have sleeves shaped to widen into a bell at the wrist." They are mostly in dark colours such as navy blue, and are bound at the edges with bright-coloured braid.
LONDON FASHIONS
Spring Suits: Another Two-Piece
(Special Alr-mail Service).
London, April 28.
This spring. is again to be a ault and two-plęce season, but there will be a large choice of ma- terials more ways of combining them. For tweed suits the "fin- gertiplength coat continues most La demand; it is worn with a slim, s.raight skirt. Light and medium blues for mixtures, darker shades for plain materials, and beige and grey are good coloura Later on three-quarter coats of natural crash linen will appear with dark frocks. A neat sult has a some- what box-te coat of heavy na- tural linen with square shoulders and large pockets; it is fastened at the neck with one button, The red-brown frieze skirt is straight; slim, and creased. A short fitted coat of natural linen crash with a cross-bar design is put with a Light- blue cravat silk dress. weight woollen three-quarter leng- th coats in pastel shades of pink, blue, and yellow will be worn with fine wool dresses in black or navy.
All linens do well for sults and wrap coats. The very thick and woolly-looking,, textures look well in natural, grege, and string col- ours. The lighter weights will "be used for tailored suits. Black or navy rustic linens make town sults with two-third length jac- kets and straight wrap-over skirts; the blouse, also of linen, is of a contrasting colour. Plaid linen coats will go over plain tai- lored dresses of the predominating colour.
"The linens are equally suitable. for the beach," especially when of clear deep colours such as dark blue, dark green, and red-brown. Long trousers and aborts, besides beach dresses, appear in these colours. A beach sult has back- less blouse and short tailored coat of plain, linen to tone.
For town wear there are many sük suits with short buttoned or belted jackets. New materials for these are alpaca and taffetas for faille satin printed in a small white design on black or navy. makes a dress and short coat with white linen revers and cuffs. There is a two-piece composed of a light- weight crepe skirt and short jac- ket of soft green with white print- ed design." The upper part in a reverse crepe of white with green design is finished with a wide soft jabot. The same effect may be obtained with printed 'satins or foulard. Many printed suits are trimmed with white linen or pique- collars and white organdi eufts or ruffles.
Fashion Looks to the East," The oriental influence is strong this Spring. Embroidered tunics, coolle hats, geisha-girl kimonos you will see smart women wearing them everywhere. For those who are afraid such exotic clothes won't suit them, there is another very different style which will be :This just as smart this season. is the Directoire silhouette. Any- one who sports a 'redingote, a tricorne, or a frock or wrap of crisp taffeta, can be confident that shie is wearing this season's "clothes. There's an article in the current issue of Vogue about all. the new styles seen at the Paris
lovely
Hollections, with
some collections of the most outstand- ing models.
Whither the Tailormade? There isn't such a thing as the tailored type just now. That pre- supposes you to be a rebel against ordinary dressing. Só says Vogue in its current lasue, in an article dealing with spring, wardrobes. every women To-day, though
wears a suit, it is not the straight, classic. jacket with long Vrevers, that "has been fashionable for so long. That familiar stuff, pin- striped material is smart no more. Suits are now made of wool, pre-
ferably, tweed, often in quite a bright colour, The Jackets are fitted, with little basques sloping up in front. This line is repeated in the flapless pockets, which slop up like the jacket hem.
A Millinery Hint
The smartness of the modern hat is all according to the angle. at which it is worn. A leading designer advises every woman to adopt the following procedure. Study your face in the mirror with great care. Put on your earrings - an important accessory—and try on the new hat at all angles until you discover its axis in re- lation to your head. Then mem- orise that angle.
Spanish Gauntlets There is a very great variety in very kind of glove wear. Span- ish embroideries in black on beige leather are amang, some of the most attractive of the new designs. The lighter type of Elizabethan embroidery is also used very el; fectively in these modern gloves. These are practical yet decor. ative gauntlet gloves in leather in all-over punch work design; while for the evening, long black arm adorned gloves have one with a small balkon of pink shaded roses.
Black Sleeves Black sleeves, rather of the semi-full bishop variety, appear with the lighter printed frocks. A dash of black is wonderfully becoming and rather levels up colours. Pretty, too, is a frock in
organza. black and white with black sük sleeves and long sash in black.
The Vogue for Spots The spot has been giver an im- portant place in the wardrobe of the well-dressed woman. Evening gowns, summer frocks and acces- sories" worn with dark suits for the streets all take the spotted way to smartness. The pronoun- 'ced desire for silks sees, the spot, featured in foulards and crepes. With navy the smartest choice is the bird's-eye spot, like a man's silk tie. For the ensemble the spotted dress can have a large plain white jabot with deep cuffs
When in pique, muslin or lace. the entire dress is composed of.
gown
a soft spotted crepe the should be rather simply fashioned and worn with dark coat or one The of the new short capes. Bird's-eye design is also use for the long gauntlet for black or look so well white gloves triat with a black taffeta street sult, and possibly form a hem-line to skirt or tunic, and decorate the ned-line in some manner.
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