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THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, » MONDAY, AUGUST 28TH, 1922
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THE EVEREST DISASTER
GENERAL BRUCE'S DESPATCH.
1 MEN BORNE DOWN THE MOUNTAIN SIDE
General Bruce, in the despatch we publish below, tells the full story of the Everest disaster.
The party making the heal assault comprised 17 pen, all of whom were borne down the mountain side by the rushing avalanche. They were divided into three
rope loads.
One of these, ropelands slid 130 feet down the side of the mountain. A second lond was borne still further: while the third, comprising seven men, was carried over a 80-feet cliff and perished.
[BY GENERAL DEUCE) Rongbok Glacier Base Camp,
June 11th.
fbeing at the edge of the main alip. Looking round for the re- mainder of their caravan they saw
men on the snow' still further below them. They got down to them as quickly as possible and found the second rope of porters also stopped, but on the edge of a small ice elif about 60 feet deep and with a great crevasse at its
foot,
It then became efident that the other was rope loads had been swept over the cliff and into the crevasse at its foot. Getting down as quickly as possible thry were able to rescue three men, two of whom were buried deep in the snow and wire dug out just in time and one was found upside down on the snow entirely unhurt, though dazed, having fallen o foeta most miraculous escape. The ris mainder were buried beyond hope of re covery, deep in the crevasse, the main fall of the avalanche on top of them.
SPLENDID PORTERS.' 11
All hands worked for soare hours as June 7th saw the final attempt on Mount Everest. I am afraid that i have hard as possible but finally were obliged. to chronicle a disaster, a terrible ending to relinquish their efforts after re to what up to the time of writing bad covering all but one
It is ter been an exceptionally successful Expedi-rible to think that no less than seven of eion. In order to lead up to the fatal.our splendid porters Jost their lives in
man.
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ad Hongkong to Japan, occasionally calling si Shanghai All akmens Barcellons pasenyor accommodations sited with Electric Likit and Fadi And carry a milly-zjanikud
SHANGHAI LINS
day it will be necessary for me to give his tragedy. No Expedition" that has MANILA short account of our position.
ever travelled in the Himalaya, or for
Approximately every three days between Cantom and Shanghat, sometimei calling at Syao. Through tickets me Se potuined and through Bill of Lading Art Laste Nordbora and Fangire Foru vía khanghal
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I have anly to say that bad as the thas matter in any other part of the HAIPHOSE LINE engelings from both parts avary Friday,
disaster was it was as nearly as possible
monsoon
JAPAN PORTS, SHANGHAL HONGKONG AND Darjeeling. Major Morshead in need of
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AND BREMEN Ballinga, subious to riberations.
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För
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21st Sept. 20th Oct. 20th Nov.
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TIENTSIN BANGKOT
world, has been better served by its sub- a very much greater tragedy. Everett is ordinates, than we have. The work they BORNEO, a terrifio enemy and the chances against have done has been prodigious and quile those utracking it are very great It without a parallel. They have always visits the smallest error of judgment with ander all conditions, been cheery and have the most terrible punishaeuts, and like put up with the tremendous hard work the rest of nature has no pity The and discomforts, and I may say dangers, was approaching and we knew in the most perfect sporting manner, and that little time was left. Unfortunately it is very terrible that the Expedition already some members of the party, to should he brought to its close in this very wit, Col. Strutt, Dr. Lengstaff, and Maj. tragic manner. Morshead worn obliged to return to Thus ends the rat attempt to conquer the greatest mountain in the world. From special treatment for his regrettable the experience gained this year there is future frostbites. Two other members of the no reason to believe that a party, Major Norton and Capt. Bruce attempt should be unsuccessful, but were also obliged from reasons of health Everest has two great allies, the extreme to go to a lower altitude in the Khartn shortness of the time available in which valley and were, therefore, unavailable: the weather is fine enough and in which However, there were six members still the condition of the mountain is suitable, favailable for our final effort and, therefore, and secondly when the weather is fine [a party was organized having two motives. and when the condition" of the mountain There was so little time left before the is ujtable thote terrible westerly winds. approach of the Monsoon and its con- serjuent bad weather that it was necessary The weather has broken,, southerly to arrange for the evacuation of the camps winds now prevail and the whole condi- on the East Rongbuk Glacier and for the tion of the North face of Everest and of camps also established on the slopes of
THE EVACUATION.
Everest itself during the time that the glaciers at its foot is rapidly chang- effort again to climb Everest was beingng. Where we once walked on dry ice. to Camp 3 are now torrents of water. and the mountain sides are in a melting and unstable condition. We were lucky
made.
START OF THE POELOEN HOPE.
It was quite clearly understood that in completing our evacuation as we did. this effort was only to be undertaken in i case of real fine-weather and the party was warned to exercise the greatest care. The climbing party, Mr. Mallory; Dr. Somervell and Cant. Fineb, and its as
MANCHURIA RAILWAYsistants, Dr. Wakefield and Mr. Craw-
4
OPERATING ALL LINES IS SOUTH MANCHURIA and Chosex (Korea) EAST OF MUKDIN.
SUMMER HOLIDAY
li
ON
IN
he · WILE unable to continue.
The main Expedition is now leaving for the Kharta Valley for much needed rest at IL much, lower altitude, before returning to Darjeeling and breaking up.
WEATHER BEFORT.
August 24th, at 20.10-Warning to Hong- ong, Coast Ports, &c.-Depression or typhoon of unknown intensity within 120 miles of Lat. 26 deg. N. Long. 124 deg. E moving N.E.
August 17th, at 12.25-Warning to Hong- 08. out Ports, &c. Typhoon of un- known intensity within 129 miles of Lat. 27 deg. N. Lang. 125 deg. E., moving NE
August 27th, at 12.19.Pressure has increased moderately, over Formers and decreased moderately at Naha. It has do creased slightly over the Philippines.
A feeble anticyclone is central to the east
The typhoon to the north east of Formoss
north-eastward. F Bainfall for the 24 bears Totsince January 1st, 18.80 inches, againia sa average of 6449 inches.
The forecast for the 24 hours ending ar noon to-day is as follows;-m
DISTRICT
FORECAST
ford and Capt. Morris in charge of the evacuation arrangements left the maio Base Camp on the 3rd June in rather threatening weather, During the night the weather got much worse and a heavy RESORTS
SOUTH MANCHURIA AND CHOSEN.strin catue on and continue for at least 38 hours. Most unluckily Cantaia Finch wns still feeling the results of OSHIGAURA.-Finest Seaside Summer Holiday Resort in North China. Five miles his great exertions on bis attack og from Dairan, but connected with the city by special motor and carriage road and electric Everest and on arrival in Camp 1 found tramway. Yamato Hotel (35 rooms) and 18 furnished bungalows in charming cliff garden. that Bathing, Bosting, Fishing, Golf, Tennis, Billiards, Orchestra twice a week Capital place He was able to return in time to the for children.
Base Camp and to join the first party OGONDAL-Most beautiful and select Seaside Besort in the Far East. Two miles from Port returning to Darjeeling on the following Arthur. Formerly the Summer Resort of the high Rasalan officers and officials. Yamato day. The remainder arrived at Camp 3 Hotel and 20 villas and bungalows, mostly with detached servants' quarters. Excellent on June 5th and on the oth the weather Bathing, Wonderful Scenery, Historic Battlefields, Rained and Dismantled Forts Miles fo having cleared, had a day of rest in of Japan charming Walke and Drives Abundant Picnicing Facilities. Orchestra twice a week. glorious sunshine. In to this time Mon- Best place for high-class families. FORT ARTHUR-Famone for its two memorable Sieges and its beautiful landlocked soon conditions were prevalent, that is ia Harbour. Exactly one hour's journey Dairen by express train. Yamato Hotel (16 rooms).to say a warm, or comparatively warın, Sufficient place of historical and scenic interest to fill a month with a fresh walk or drive and south wind bad accompanied the ending at 10 am, 27th August 0.30 inch.
snow, but on this day our old and great every day. Most healthy and salubrious spot in the Far East. KONGOSAN.-The famous Diamond Mountain of Kores. A special Sammer Resort enemy the freezing north-west wind again rivalling Switzerland for climate and scenery. Beautiful peaks and charming cascades. Bet up. Now there are no better condi- Grand recuperative qualitisa. Kongosan Hotel (10 rooms) at Onzeigi and Choanji Hotel tions for getting freshly fallen snow into (1 rooms) at Choenri."
trustworthy condition than first a good melting from a hot sun and then at night
tremendous drop in temperature, Hongkong to Gap Rock especially if assisted with such a dry and inconceivably cold wind as the north- west wind that blows on Everest, and it is this condition which gave the party confidence the next morning, after a night during which the thermometer registered ten degrees below zero, that the slopes leading up towards the North Col, or Chang La, would be in a trust- warthy condition. So confident were they of this that they determined not only to evacuate the North Col but also made their plans for a further attempt on the great mountain.
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5
Forces Channal
8.W.or vazisblo winds, moderate; generally cloudy, occasional rain.
Boath coast of Chins between
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the same
So. L
ƒThe same s
No. 1:
The same
No. 1
HONGKONG TIDE TABLE.
From August 28th to Sept. 3rd, 1821.
Exx Water."
There is always the great danger at great heights in the Himalaya of frost- bitten feet whed an early start is made and, therefore, the caravan left Camp 3 ata.. consisting of Mr. Mallory, Dr. Somervell and Mr. Crawford, Mr. Craw ford having joined them to assist in step cutting and making the path up to the Sorth Col thus hoping to colleve shaya ather members of the party with a view to saving them for their still greater exertions on the upper part of the moun Mon 28 tain. They were followed by fourteen
Tues. 29 coolicaj-on-three-ippes, Inden with food oxygen apparatus, etc. On this attempt Wed. 30 oxygen was to have been employed only on the later stages of the climb. It was Thur 1 thought better to climb as far as possible without it and then before distress over. Fi came them to continue, probably from the highest camps already established, using Batur
oxygen.
!!
4
THE AVALANOKE,
The lower slopes leading to the North, Cal were found to be in good condition, the snow adhering to the ice beneath" it in a very firm manner. This gave every hope for believing that this con- dition would be maintained right up to the North Col itself. "However, at 1.30 p.m. when they were traversing, slopes | of the mountain about half way up to the North Cel, and at a rather gentler angle, suddenly an ominous crack was heard running, right across the face. Immediately the snow began to slip and the leading rope load, consisting of Mr. Mallory, Dr. Somervell, Mr. Crawford and Gue
F'kong
Height
Low WATER.
H'rook
Standard
Time.
h. ma
Standard
Tizie.
mit. ix.
0 50
1 59 a
m
1 52
80m 7 8
47 12 s) 808-18
3-18 256
7-38
4464 4 5
6 1 m 10 0
6211
6.19 a 44 1m 614 6 3 195
26 136
* 18
3 m 7 6
28
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Consult
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porter were carried down. 67, QUEEN'S ROAD, CENTRAL
After sliding about 150 feet, by the greatest luck the slide was checked and all four were able to extricate them- selves and found they were.
unhurt, they 1297
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