FROM WECROW TO NANSANG

BY NATIVE BOAT

·Continued from page 3

to

te with the bust delay ard wis return the hot permitted to provved.

Wo wero andor sail when at half p four e- groandsel sasiu for a quart of an hour.

It is really wonderful what a river full of Looks this i As then stay imp diments era met with in very dirontin pigalion is rende- red very difficult and hazardous" Many narrow ***Notapes

we had to the heat wrigglel through zirag rexy elamels in a manner that would has me the past couplished ske tern grain with outy. We stoppel for th aight, as early a half past five, as wy ospied as suitably anchoring ground

Thusday, January dish. We were at GRU am, nad reached Pak Mahin Horses, on the Eff bank, at a quarter where we remained till petten in Hin loren 19. To the Likin authorities 1 ut my card and Behar, the latter being promptly A compleaľ sooneshers cons off roburned to me to my boat ht - kareindly on being a Tuled sed feui the place for igher abari alast desolate, 1 appellati a white elephant won ki this dreary Spot better than the ne of white beurse, Pisk Ma, that it has

It was jugufting a to 2 pm when wo skirted fui Won which the right bank. The sol imprince of Tai Won is dan to the establishment there of the principal Chesia Likin burn where the dog on all

'assis of this province are betinal. Tan Chook, on the left bank was passed after three o'clock in the afternoon and al 7.45 a cust was called for the night.

Right long from Tai Woo to there were exceedingly low rocks to hy zees. Tim carrunt was very slow and thanks to a spanking, breez we wore enabled to rustita our voyage to as late an ber as inlicated ubote, when albeit a fairly strong evening it was nevertheless vxtrmly dusk Ne navigation is, as a rule, dene at nighttime.

Friday, February 130.

By 7am. we were cn the way and strited ut Ping Som, on the left bank in an hours' time Aitor redenishing its store of rice the heat belt at nine o'clock.

THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, SATURDAY, JUNE 18T, 1907.

or

W startal at 630 mm. and passed the Pak night when all the crows were regalod buriahly partaken of after cessation of all

Sha rapid hail an hour afterwards. At 11.30 we get to the Tai Hung rapid which took us 4 minutes to cross. Wun Kun, a village on Lim left side, was passed at 6.15 p.m. and Tung Chan, a great rice mart, situated on right bank of the tiver, three hours later. Outriving a Pong Pok at sen o'clock the bests there for the night. The guard of sccompanying to changed twice to day. On each ocenion, when presenting me with the card of the official in charge of the respectiva guard. bat, quiries were made, on behalf of the later, around these as to how I was faring. Labs goticed that the demeanour of the riverine staticus was very deecrans and civil and quite in contrast to these tint were with its an the oarlier part of the jury.

brats"

to bom.

At a quarter to seven we anchored for the

The treat was as compensation their respective masters with a big toner, There were quite a variety of edibles servad for the anus and diffent labours which had

Friday, February th indes exerted in getting the boats through fie rapids.

made at

A start WAK

or

on

Four meals are served to the crow I turned in my gramophons which attracted inhabited by 10 monks. To this place of inclination to make good the captain's proùuiary { and invoke the assistance of the Jers, daily, at respectively eight in the morning, noon, quite a crowd. My boat was practically besieged worship the boatpoeple as a rule repair to offer outlay. not only by the entire crews of the three boats, pray in with a number of fishing folk in the thres in the afternoon and sovou o'alock in the but by a molly assembly which in its eagerness

fresh variety and the last mes, which is to catch a ghimpse of this mysterions construc.rapids. They attended to their calling singly.vening. The first three ropasts consist of rice assisted cormarants, en tiny rafts simply put and one kind of vegetalle, either of the salted tion of the foreign devils, nearly speel my

together with 4105 bombeo poles

work, is again made up of rice, of which there of vegetables boat,

one dish Monday, February 40.

died. In addition overy sailor receives on is at each coarse plentiful, one nad song meat, pork or beof, either fresh

at dinnertime. No

Che board from the captain down bonsis smell tiny cup, holding three or four thimblefulls possession of a timekeeper, there is neler y clack 10 ba soon anywhere and of Samehow

a. and the watch nar

whore wa precision food is ready cooked and arred out the afternoon,

When not engaged ent placa reicbed was Wanchow, at half yet it is most remarkable with what regular pass remained for an hear and a half. Wan-at the hours indicated, unless unavailable

Monday, February 11th. chew which lies on the left bank, produces a circumstances interfors fung Mas Cha, (red hair tes). It is a very only, as happened to-day,

The strong wind of the previous day having calier veristy of ten, colloquially known as in navigating the brat. the crew got two moxis dear kind and much in demand by the leis stops, lined on both sides by parapets, leal abated considerably we got under way at arren wern in the May Miu mpida in eros ing claws. A very did and substantial light of from the beach to the first strast of the city arlock this morning: From 8 to 1.30 am. and uneventful passage we an The steps which a distinctly visible from a distance are quit credit to the pixen. They which great difficulties were experienced.

The avenues chered for the night of half past six. are constructed of stone, as are also the After a quiet parapete, and cemented orer. from the point of dumbarkation to the on- trance of the business part of the toru ma in Hud he a change of slas usual order most places in dilapidated and dirty ondition, is quite surprising as well as pleasant to behold Every member of the boats crew has brought up from Wuchow various articles to be disposed of at the different. steg-a touched et on route, There

are chiefly earlben pots, bamboo since, shop-alicks and portable clay sloves, all of Chiness make sad origin lly from Pataban the great manufacturing entre of South Chics Besides they hace also common hand cirers which come all the way from Osaka. the Bir mingianus of Japan. It is quits interesting to watch the poor hardworking sailors who, lended with their respective merchandis, harry suhorn eagerly bent on selling samant what they hope to be favourable prices. Their swall favest aneute, not exceeding three dollara in each indi. vidual case, hare nul met so far with ans Inck.

At four o'clock in the altercer estived at Chaung Tan, the Long rapids and after pruced-

at fe pat ing up the sacas for two hours stopped overnight

Thest Cleness montin handle their ships with reno kaj lovers and colors. They view the most critical positions with a sangfroid which is jurisentable. Their carelesses is simply appalling.

Tuesday, February 5th. After being five bars in the journey we This arrived at Kwai Yuen, situated on the left Tank at had past olever in the forencon. Txt lies ahoat midway between Wachow and Nanging. A slow and iregular stent-launch service keeps up connection between Washow and this, Beth at Kwaiping and here we bought 10 very calent Mandarin oranges, vory Swatow caristy. They like the wellknown enum from Wat Lam, on inland town, neress the opposite side of the river, and not far from Pakhoi. The passage was continued till 8 'clank ut aight when, in complianes with my reques', a halt was made. Before 7 pm s doalblank durknes set in and keeping on our way in such a state of utter duskiness did net euable

it

any, progress, us to make much,

In view of the perilous condition of the river, wind, in fact, whilst preceding in the dark, based vezal times against rocks, luckely not therefore expressed Errat with any impact. T my strong disapproval to the captain in carry- I land-it here and fund the stats ro-

Talees urder ing on navigation after daylight had orned and Wherever I have put foot arkably elean

with the utmost politeness, he promised not to do se again. ashore

any anti-foreign suil the boat is invariably kept class sakborn Trier Tri peroicing as

so as to avoid the fores of the current obtaining one hours so much. foaling about which

fitted Alsewhere. Considering the many mishaps wo There are quite a ambar of large shops, dass already had I am beginning

to look with up akin to those at Wushow, at Ping some of them have silk goods and a miscellaneous doubt and inistrast upon the skipper's former selment of articles of foreign provenancs for statement, to the off-et, of having handled brats for 15 years without meeting with any canality. A lovely spot, called Kro Yuug, which we passed at o.15 pm, and about which there is a pil, a guardly at is anchored and it was here whs the rokliers that accompanied as all the from Wuchow were relieved and returned to head quarters. Henesforward the guard, which is to follow as, is to be changed at every other guard boat. Whenever a new lot appencs cards bot treat the official of the respective district and myself are exchanged,

t

Navigation is conducted by four methotis, vie, mailing, yoloing, pushing and towing When there is the least breeze from the desired direction the sail is immediately spread. Towing indone by aix to set en sal on shore, by palling & this but very strong, bambon line connected with the top of the masts and thenes hading to the stern of the vasel Between the captain and his two sons there are often accused Quarrels, One of the Infter in

carelest look out and steering keeping a Tsultily This they senib to his ass of spines, in which he inlages daily. The ucensation is andoubtedly justified as the bond has had most miraculo escapey on several occasions,

Kong Hon (mouth of the river) was reached

It is at a quarter past six in the evening." situated on the left side of the river and is a yay fleurishing trade centro, principally well Known for its chongress of food staffs, livestock and rice. The loosi commerce consists chiefly of these iferas wherein a fairly brink hesizes in cloni Fast launches, British and Chinese, ply daily between her and Washus and take for the pesenge up 11 to 12 hours. is covered in to 10 beurs.

meat.

fax

lo

at

Jur

Wednesday February 6th. Starting at half past six in the morning, Wa Toog, a village on the right bank, was passed at 115m Shortly fora tin, in crossing a very shal'n stretch of the river, 3.30 By my boat grounded and it took the best part of

har afloat. to get. pm. Hang Kong, a village on the right

Ai

the Aiv in shore. Wad passed.

thon usually and as a evening, warlier resale of my objectica, we batted for the night in the vicinity of a guardlout. These guard bosis, which are ordinarily constructed by native craft, are stationed at various points, principally at, or in the neighbourhood, of, villages. Enols has a sff of U to 10 men including the patty official is command and carries a couple of small muzzle ending csunne and a dozen old fashioned rifles. The boats serse as a kind of riverine cast guard.

The river is gattior shallower auf rockier. Thursday, February 7th. We left at half past six and arrived vious to negotiating same, the boat stopped at the foot of the big rapids at 11 am. Pre al sach of them went through a solemn ceremony praying for and appealing to filmu. Jum for a safe conduct through the rapids, J On the forward part of the dock, which is the plano always chosen for tag purpose, feal tires Jarsticks, and in candles were : and red then pat a wooden tray, containing three amps of into wokats.

In front of these ibers waa

Tuesday, February 12th. Arrival at Wing Shan, situated on the right neouie in the afternoon. Before entering aid of the river, at eleven where we remained till the walled city, tho uiskirts of which are densely overgrown with will notas Trad panels have to be passed. The local barbar. haring his hat right at the river'a front, did a rearing trade this day, as all the main merabera on hard the thres hosts requisitioned his services in order to look nice and clean on the arrow..

חו

a row,

Large quantities of foodstuff and various delicacies, so much appreciated by the nativa palate, and an assortment of Joss paraphernalia were bought in adin-95 for the New Year festival. The purchases conclud- and shipped, the passage was resumed. Somewhat earlier than ususi we stopped for the night at a vi lage called Lok Kanat o'clock. This boats laving been a safe, cloves to where a Zaubon was suchored, a sumptuous repart was erred out to the crews. This was preceded fire crackers and s brass gong. During the night fire crackers and bombs were discharged by a brief religions functiau, chiefly worked with

Wednesday, February 13th, at intervals:

Since quite an early hour in the mor- blowing bagn terrific gala has

another The basta moored alongsido cne longing a

with the prows facing the. direction of the wind, are bumping one ageinst the other and the squeak and groan caned by friction are intolerable. The crawS were very pleased that we could not proceed on this New Year day. All the inmates of the boals, men, women und children, were dressed iu would afford it had niso provided themselves with in their burt, garb and those that apparatly

The whole day was given up to recreations of footgear anch as Norkan sooks and cloth ebroes. Pome sort or another. Gambling was largely

Friday, February 15th indulged in and the amount of foot that was There was a slight subsidenes in the gede but consumed was astounding the worthy skipper did not consider it yet safe nongh to venture forth, to worse stacktpheric.

a strong breeze in our favour the boat sailed change taking place in the forenoon. I urged the captain to resume the journey with The reau't that by 1 pm. we were off once more, With

huit was made for the night. along quite rapidly right to six o'clock when a

Saturday, February 9th. Starting at 7.m. we got to the summit of the rapids by a quarter past fon. These rapids, which were easily negotiated, are also known as Saw Shap Lai Cheung Tan, the 30 mpids. To cross them a distance of 10 miles, took us a little over five hours, Nem it Hourg, situated on the right side of the 6.30 p.m. and time took DUT departure river was art reclied in an bout 's- On receiving my card and Huchas the Likin authorities refurred the latter doenment with boat a visit and after a cursary glabra round out delay. Two of their employees paid the captain and arews quarters left contentedis.

Nom Heang lonkel deserted and lacked avery indication et commercial activity. Choap China- ware articles, of a very inferior sort, lor nativa requirements are manufactured hers in large quantitios, Rock salt which is brought hither all the way, overland, from Pakboi, is distributed to all places up river.

A short distane from Nom flung me sm * junk which ind here wrecked receully. Her Freight rossisted of or word planks which were destined for Nanning from Lan-chow. at the time the runt was safely teached and her cargo all landi,

The mishipa wide which matívn craft, not to mention steam sele, meet on this river must rarely, reaching the places which ara ur- affected by the casunlities. inded be enormous news about which over, or

W

Sunday, February 10th. Overnight a very strong-wind had sprang up and delayed our start this morning. eventually got ander way at 7.15 am and after which time bandiya mila was covered, we had to ceding for a little over two boars, during

the boat stop and get into a safe shelter za the turbulent tem post blowing

12

beachside an

Saturday, February 16th. Twelve hours' good steady travel was done to day We started at seven in the morning and passed village Fook Min, on the right side of At half past fire in the afternoon the Pan the river, at 3p.m. where a brief rest was taken

Sunday, February th We were madfor way by 7 am and passed rapids were crossed, and the boats stopped for the night at 7.15 p.m. village Ting Chee, the largest of its kind on the river, at 1.4 p.m.

he down trip Samchow and a plate of row rice and undiffused it imposible to outisme on the journey. I whole route, situatel on the right bank of the

firs

leases and three antit sticks of incense. Ther During this osptain kneeled and prayed. My intention of Insding here was frustrated

performance one of his sons burnt a handful of hy a very regrettable and autorspón contratempt. Owing to some misunderstanding a fracas broke Jesspaper, whilst a third party hammered awar ent between the grow of one of the three boals at a gone will great fares. The captain and the rummagers of the Salt Likin depart-west slaughtered a capon with whose dripp

Tin raliers of my bort on being blood he wetted a Buraber of pieces of while kind of Jorspaper, and arsistance were only too anoller appled to for

on to different me and bely cespied in glining the join in the their clansmen and, with this object, in view parts of the ship, a small bunch of ared themsels with beam pels. Isteppot crackers was lot off and ths rico and the fus ive, on the aforementioned tray, worn thrown Hem. The boat people hail from Kweilia wharas

to port and starkurd into the water. Tho the salt searches are natives of Kong Hon

rapids were passed in three hours and a que Saturday, February 2nd. Long before dawa we had restarted. Shokter, the boat stradag once. The rapide la vo three different names in Chinese riz Tai Tan, Kok 11e, on the right bank, was passer ut eleron clock. Shelly after 1 pm. a pretty Frok Poh Ten and Hon Kne Tax but they are night storied pagotina, on the right, was said by usasily referred on Thi Tan, the big rapids, and in exactly an hour's time we arrived at the on an elevation of a hill on the left bank of the rapids there stands a pealty Jose Louns enthuence of the Tao tributary and tha West viver Three heary wood rafty came eating down the La. It is on the shoro

the great timber of the La river that supplying districts of this province, exist, there JM EFL verinn the same insignificant place callel Yong Then which exporta to calities far and nee Panelons in large cousiraments, particularly a certain variety known as She To You. This is a special Kwangsi product, an exordingly dry but wy pomelo and rather expensive in comparison with the ordinary kind.

Kwaiping was reached at 3 pm and at. the boats bad te urke varitas purchases of lark- ling and provisions we remained hera overnight. Kwaiping on the left: its long suburban city well is very conspicuous. This iverine port which is nts kans by the name Chin- chow is kept very clean and orderly. The presence of a wins! contingent of coldiers gave one the impression of a garrison town. Judging by the rumber of brass buttoned students I am scress, and which are met with, everywhere nowadays, education unst progress indeed be reading and making amongst the masses and classes. What lends furiber forun to this assumption is the existence of stationery shops which stock, inter alia. drowing instruments, writing material and 蔬 miscellaneon ne requisitos of quite

A

and also maps, charts and books of a vari

sort out. The largest Liklu rife of the West river is datished at Kwaiping. Thriving industry here is the mauaforture of dried ducks and smages and all similar viande, Gram tea is also grown locally. The. river frem Konghus to this singe la com- paratively free from rocks.

3

Tuesday, February ärd. Getting under way at dam., we passed Hu Wan, village on the left bank, at half past three in the afternoon. $1 pm wachored for the night below the Pat Sha rapid. A strong wind blowing in the 1 thn right direction ounded us to sail nearly all t way. Quite alstead, they captain informed that we had traveled a distauer of 97 (20 miles) to-day. He had every cause to be greatly pleased as on an avaraga 50 to only are covered daily. With the exception of being. stuck on a sand spit for a short while nothing ntoward occurred. To night for the first time

ANNIE

To shallowly constracted and top heavy haut was a mare plaything for the wind. We were weatherbound the whole day.

Noading was reached at lai at half past two the sume afternoon. The passage from Wnchow The beat folks are without a doght a rery to this had lusted exnetty 21 days. Naning, manufacture of a superior quality of fire saperstition-lot and was book is this time whose principal, if not sole, industry is the blamed ass being the ease, presumably indireckers and a special sort of paper, colloquially of the vessel's enferend stoppage. It appears that on the proviens evening he had asked the known as Shs Chee, is next to Wachow, the captain what distance wo were then from most important part on the West river. Its Nanning and when we were likely to reach our importano is however minimized by the fest destination. This innocent anniry, to which that for nearly 7 months un steam craft is able given, is accounted za to couie up here: Where the seat of the old erasive replies were giv The skipper with Feity and to be, a distades of roughly one mile the cause of to day's Ingubricas counterone informad mu that from where the present walled in town is, there bio the loss is now being put in shape & settlement for A bund, of the aurant

of ong dollar, the end of foreigners. The site selected for this special to-day's day an extra dar food hill for his crew. My cock, purpose envers a very extensive area. foregoing information was given out, vincad no errotion and its completion is being hastened. for whose special knowledge, I presume, the lining the river's traut, is also in courts of

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