THE CHINA MAIL.
SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 15, 1924.
The HIGH CROWNED HAT APPEARS
BARBARA
SLOP
VOTOS
سے سیر در کمین مساف
FEDER
PAPROT
UNUSUAL BECAUSE
HOT SQUARE OFOWME
DID YOU KNOW
THAT a recent important fashion show stressed Venetian fuschia as an and Important colour for evening: burnt russet and shutter green for daytime wear, Burnt rusict is a nastartium shade and shutter green is very dark
THAT there is a decided flair for front line trimmings of insertion, braid, embroideries or bands of contrasting. fabrice. Those trimmings appear on both, tha bolted, and, belticas "dresses, And frequently depend from, yokes.
THAT the watch that was once worn on a fob, then transferred to the wrist, has become a pin to hold the scarf in place or is worn about the neck on a cord. Or it may hang from the belt or the rever by. -narrow grosgrain ribbon
That fall shoes elect to be simple fonturing the Oxford; the opera pump; and the one strap shoe. Gloves incline to simplicity, and the fashion prophet tells of the perfectly plain slip-on glove.
110
THAT the newest pearl bends and correctly woman of fashion is drossed without her "pearls"-ore mar- Yon or chestnut colour. They are, at times, interspersed with natural colour beads, or have a pendant drop.
THAT ParisTringes-her-nowort trocks with either knotted, straight, bended, tasselled or ombre fringe? She finds many new and many really amus ing ways of using this onen-in-so-often trimming.
THAT El plain frock may he smartened in a rost charming way by the use of one of the now panel collars that fun the whole length of the gown in front7 They are of fine Jace and have a round or batcua shaped neckline.
The Autumn Hat Will Be Small, Though Not As Small As Formerly-Crowns, At Least, Will Be "On The Square.".
fashion. Were it not so, there would be no new modes, really only a name for re-creations that have been resur- reeted from other times and other peoples. "What's new in millinery?" should really read "What revivals in millinery 7" or "What adaptations?" For the three fashions of the hour are all old, either to a nation or a period. Typical of the unrest that has resulted from the continued popularity of the cloche are the widely differing styles that have been presented, and-oquaily-of-fact fur will be dominant note in typical the endeavour to show origin- the winter mode, making, lining and trimming coats, and finding niany uses ality in both the placement of trim-
in the hat, suit and frock fashions of mings and the trimmings themselves.
the winter season. It is to be had in s Fabrics Are Rich And Beautiful.
wide colour range, and the more pliable While thore will.
novelties, the
akins are most ingeniously used.. foundation of the fabric mode will be velvet-both panne and Lyonsfelt, hatters' plush and satin. There will be combinations of distinction, making use of two or more of these materials, and the hat and scarf combination that is so popular will Testure satin and velvet, linking the scarf to the hat by either the one or the other. The felt hats that
best 'liked, just are now, are self trimmed, and have un-
may. bound edges. Anether, month bring a radical change, but the felt hat will be apparent in the mode in some farm or other, for it is the most prae- tlcat of the four featured fabrics. There will be some use of ribbon as a material, both alone and in combina-
BEACHERUSI AY BLACK-
RIBBON EDGE VELVET W
For the woman who was simply bored to death with the prevalence of cloche shapes, designers have at last succeeded in making a defirile offering that is different-without, however wholly erasing the cloche from the picture. This is by way of an achieve- ment, for the whole world of women; with a few exceptions, was devoted to this conveniently smart little hat, and it will be found that there will be many demands for it, even though other modes may get a fair representation in fashion. Some there are who insist that there will be no cloches at all, but following the old law that "demund creates supply," one is inclined to doubt. this, although it is practically certain that the supply of cloches that answers the demand will be very different from any cloches we have known. A recent fashion neta-cabled direct from Paria -insists that the cloche will remain in fashion-in some form or other-until women grow their hair again, which settles the matter for this season in" a most definite way. It is no longer a question of Shall I bab my hair, What bob is most becoming?"
At Work. The Direntoire Influence Prophesied for some months, the Directoire mode is an established fact in the military world, though it has not a really definite place in the mode as a whole. One feels sure that it was seized upon by designers as a possible solution to the problem of change, und it is now. baing presented in so many graceful forms that it is reasonably *sure of its place in fall fashions.
shows itself in the high-crowded mudele and in the low as well, for even when crowns are low-and everyone does not and height becoming there is a hint, at least; of the squarish line that belongs to this particular period bat. The narrow brim is also a feature of this style, and the narrowex tho brim, the higher the crown appeurs. More often than not the brim rolls, another characteristic of the mode.
but
It
Even newer than the models in the Directoire manner are the Spanish in- fluenced slupes, and there scoms a strong movement in their direction, for there must be more than one mode for the coming busy season. The Spanish tendency appears in high hats with a flat crown and very etruight brim -one thinks of Carmen-and turbans, -very Spanish in their temperament. In direct opposition to the pastilion hat, thero-models-have-n-high back trim ming-inspired by the Spanish comb and they make use of fringe-Paris is using fringe on all her newest frocks; and the glowing red of this Latin 'country has presentation. That glyes us three working ideas the cloche; the postillon or Directoire shape; and the hat of Spanish inspira- tion. Surely that is enough to at least
start a aenson.
It is fortunate indoed for the "eres tor" of fashions-millinery and
tionou
Curiously unough there in a wide choice in the placement. of trimmings, aid, one may be Directoire, with the trimming squarely in front; Spanish, with the trimming comb-shape, in back; or just nothing in particular, with the trimming at one side. The latter may droop over the brim edge or strive for height so there is no.excuse for an un- becoming arrangement of whatever decoration one chooses. The general tendency is toward a scant use of trim- mings, which is occasion for the rather bromidic. statement that a hat may be distinguished by what is left off rather than by what is put on. More skill is required when trimmings are scant
The sailor type of hat is a tailored type, and one naturally expects band ings to prevail. Hats of this type may be both ribbon bound and ribbon banded, but some show a trim of a single hird's head; a brash effect; or BOA equally original and simple- effect
Bird's heada are extremely fashionable, and quilts, brushes and all sorts of ustrich plumes and fancies are'
Embroideries on everywhere seen. the front of a square crowned sailor, let us say; dancy ribbon, woven in and out of the slita in a soft felt hat; a cocarde of fur, the only trimming on a Directoire. shapo of "battery, plush; these are not merely suggestions, they are realides. One hat on dipplay had a square crown; three brima; no trim
otherwise that each season passed ming Thera will be, apparently, A.
writes a chapter in the history of,, most generous use of fur-asmattor
GOOD TASTE IN COSTUME JEWELRY,
Bome enterprising ool, with real effects has reached a point where good arginality, hit upon the vital import taste in Jewelry is the keynote of e of jewelry as an accessory to the successful dressingt meiner Cime, not the occasional, but each should mean the careful study of and every separate ensemble in the lines; of the neck and chin; of the arm; wardrobe To own real jewels. would of the contour of the face; and, ob- be out of the question for any but those viously, of the allhouette in general, possessed of unlimited wealth, so The beauty of a slender wrist is greatly me" Jewelry came into being enhanced by Just the tight bracelet; Destners in precious metals and skilled earring may sharpen the cames-like craftsmen in the cutting polishing and clearness of a profile, or, make more setting of precious stones left their prominent a beautiful chini and who of fascinating, work of creating expensive us does not know the value of just the places and turned to the comparatively, fight necklace,its haight-giving alan sexpensive trifles that are now shown', 'derness, its effective zoondness on
sach abundanes in every smart ap slender neck eredis power to lighten parsling shop, large or amall." The the somberment of a dull-tased rock? remit is a variety, and an excellence of Abfinth of Falour brings out the bit of design that is almost anballeyable, and hidden:/beauty in an embroidered endent every well-dressed woman pouneuses des ga, and a quaintly carved faband albgle plecosto complement allvens, and at the same har: every costume. Imitation stones, the too pak
Cartincial pearls and bits of jewelry should
finely wrought make the problem of
one choiceadlightful withat' an
For The Snake Of Being Different. Proving the fact that Fashioh is nothing, just now, if not versatile, we have five hat models, all different in both line and trimming. From the five it would be possible for the woman who has abandoned the cloche to choose at least one that would prove becoming. with the assurancs that her choice would meet with the approval of the fashion critic. Both the Spanish and Directoire Jnfluences appear; various fabrics are featured; 'different trim- mings and placement of trimmings prove that there is pleasing variety in
their use. They are all the offerings
phasized by the application of the trim ming.
A Directoire model of black hatters' plush with high crown and irregular brim makes use of the brush trimming, applied squarely in front. The fluted Irregularity of the brim is emphasized by a binding.of,orange and yellow rib- bon; which forms a most effective con trast to the black velvet of the hat itself. Velvot again, this time with a' fold of grosgrain silk about the crown, a high-crowned model steals a trim- ming from summer and places it high on the side, almost on the top of the
!*་
of creators, and they are-all-prophetic.-hat_Since bats alone do not compriso A hat in the Spanish manner, with one's, interest in fashion the ostrich wide, straight, sailor hria is made of neckpiece is of interest, for it Indicates the continued popularity of plumes and XT08grain silk-one should make note of the fact that the fallos and benga-
fronds in the accessory and trimming lines are fabric modes of the hour-
world. Pernia allies and faced with velvet. herself with Spain, when it comes to the ribbon band, and a curious bird unknown to ornithologists-sports a parrot's hend and a peacock feather. it is an uncompromising hat one wears it or one does not, but it pos- scares a most unique smartness and charm. Linking the large hat to the small-we have the model in velvet and plaided ribbon. Neither the admirer of the upturned brim nor the adherent to the fashion of the drooping-brim can provided, complain, for both are although the upturned brim is em-
The off side trimming treatment is emphasized in the model that takes only the estrich fancy for its decora- tion, relying-as well it may-on the beauty of its fabric for its success. These hats prove, at least, the ten- dencies of the mode, which are toward the high crown-square, if you can wear it so the narrow brim, and the simplest sort of trimming, smartly placed. A good beginning, prophetic, we devoutly hope, of an ending equally good.
The Problem of the
NECKLINE
The shape of the neckline; ita orna mentalion; and the effect of accessories upon it combine to mako a problem that should be carefully studied by every onc, bat is, unfortunately, almost wholly disregarded by the average woman. Whero one refuses a model because she considers the finish at the neck is impossible, ninety-nine accept It. hopefully planning to alter the line Homehow, although they do not know very definitely what that "somehow" is to be. Given becoming general lines, the next most important factor.is the nock, and it is only within the past few scasons that this has been reeeg. nized or if there has been recogni- tion, there has been no ald 'given in. the solution of the problem.
For many dreary months wo were; offered the round or the bateau neck- lino, becoming to less than any other fashion, and we accepted it uncom plainingly because it was fashion, or because, thoro seomed no other way out of it. The early fall models, seem to have taken the matter into careful con sideration, and it lacks as though thure would be, a general choice, with sträse, on the V-neck and the square, the more -familiar bateau and roundnes
Seçoridary choice. There is nothing' uglier than an unbroken round line below a rounded face, and nothing that fi creases apparent size more completely, With the wide choice in fashions that designers-forstall there is little excons for an unbecoming line anywhere, but : one finds herself in the annoying position that results from the desire to possess a model that is satisfactory in every other respect, there are cortsin things that can be done to relieve the ugly pr. unbecoming neckling-it in oply
question of which thing is best It not always a question of line- frequently it in a case of color and then a banding or a binding or whi of embroidery, cleverly applied may-f counteract the enbecoming hide.) thin' respect costume jewelry important adjunct, and the a pearl, 14 news to be hady
Sometimes the round or bateau neck. jine is unbecoming only because it is
FLOWEP
over their backs. Perhaps that is why so much talk gocs on behind one's back, who knows? There are fully as many people back of us as in front, and they have eyes to see-wise in her day and generation the woman who possesses a double ar triple mirror and uses it.
We are continuing the vogue for
emerald the beat liked, with the aap- phire a close second, Necklaces of gold or silver beads--a revival from the days of our grandmothers--are back again, mosaic jewelry-and-ornaments-beige-and-ecru shades, as well as metal a dull visage becomes bright, when a acarf matches the eyes, or brings out and tinted laces. It should be rememhitherto concealed lights in the hair. of filagree are being worn; surely there is a solution of the colour pro- bored, also, when choosing lace, that It can, too, do much for the complexion. blem in some, one of these fascinating all kinds do not become all people, and fashions.
when Irish makes one leak "fussed-up" And we are coming to the season of flet or Val may be most smartly fura, with the advance information that it is to be; more than ever before; a fur becoming. Sometimes the blouse, may Menson... That means the short fur, the be slit for a little distance and sum fur collar and the fur cont, and elicits colour introduced to bind reckline and
The woman with opening, or the alit may be held together a warning as to the form the neckpiece with a bit of ribbon or the material or collar shall take
a long neck can help the situation a made into a slender bow, or it may Be laced up with a contrasting colour very great deal she makes much of This takes the round-and-round look her fur collar, and for her the large. collar is a very present sid. But the away,
woman with the short, plump neck If the desired model has a square must be wary of huge felds of far or neck and it in pot becoming, it may be of anything else, for that matter. Her Alled in a bit to mate it a V-neck, and choice should be short haired pelts and when the V-neck is the problem a bit a sparing use of them, for the of lace or embroidery filled in will large, long-haired fur collar cun square it Rovers are a fashion feature increase the appearance of dumpiness of the season and many of the V-necks and be most unbecoming, for it not only alow tiny revers as a finish. These shortens the neck but it broadens the revers may be of tile, same material as shoulders. Ostrich and mazebou, while the frock; of is contrasting fabric;; or lighter and fluffer, than furs, múst ba lace. Some of the smartest dromsod chosen carefully. It often happens women are getting around the pro- that one has to forego a very lovely blem of an unbecoming neckline bything in the interests of becomingnem. wearing a "dog collar," which is mere- ly a trade name for a ruche that has
ever, an irregular outline or a square scarfe, and while the scarfs themselves or V-outline can be simulated, quite have changed, their usage has not and easily with a bit of lace, and if one their value is as great as over. Many finds white impossible, there are the
n frill or two up and down. "Needless
Both The Separate Scarf And The Scart That Is An Integral Part Of The "Costume Is' Vogue,"
THE TUNIC IN THE FALL MODE.
to say this is no fashion for a woman with a short plump neck. Then the BAscar Elo, had retired to favour, and Felther this or the dog collar is worn about the neck Irrespective of the height or the shape of the neckline. Of the many signs of the times in Jabots are fashion and a new collar, kas the world of fashion-some are more panel that extends to the bemling of unmistakable than others, and one that
the frock, soems to have an excellent chance of
sparkle
colour and design for some of our love- llest tunics and over-bleuses. ... stitching or fine embroideries make of theastanies baudifully effective, and« If one cares to make an exhaustive blace in the fall made is the tune of late Persian, Armenian, Turkian sud study of this problem, she will and blouse. It has appeared with the ap Indian needlework, has become a vogue. food for thought in the relation of the parent determination of staging a while Colours are marvellous, inclining to coiffure to the neckline and the relation dress detall part of the sports depth and richten with of earrings, to both in general way ensambler and a feature of the three that suggest Towels-the the fambion
bobbed hair#postaly place, costume suit The, allhouette, isad, the sapphire the boldlthet fren in the straighter than ever, if such a thing bewertonesowa mar
17d 1makes, Liespro posible; belts are wholly lacking and the blue at the backalDe
skirta Khurt and scant.". The over-tunia colours that are with Palution.The wide
drees both for daytime and evening designs that are rarer "os ek of the neck ahot
Si in an established fashion feature, and
the result approach sa dé SoDe be
may hold suggestion of the Russian Thard Hote toriChinese styles of the 1889 Jiness
or of the Hepalasance period,
We are och Indebte
simply; muty of them aro wwwt of button down this.
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