claimed his nephew, who was quite a child, Emperor of
China. From this period the dynasty of the Mantchous
have succeeded in maintaining themselves upon the
throne, namely, from about the year 1644.
Several claimants to the throne, from among the
descendants of the Ming family, started up at various
times, but, in a few years, they were completely over
come throughout the whole empire, and most of them
were killed . It is supposed, however, that descendants
of that family still exist in China, but they do not make
themselves known ; nor is it likely that the Chinese
would now interest themselves in the slightest degree
in procuring their restoration to the throne, in oppo
sition to the Mantchous.
China has by no means retrograded under the do
minion of its new sovereigns ; it is more wealthy, more
populous, and more consolidated than at any other period
of its history. It has enjoyed a longer interval of peace
than it ever did before ; and the system of government is,
perhaps, better adapted to the wants and habits of the
people than any other would be. The machinery of
government has differed little from that of their prede
cessors, but they have shown more vigour in its admi
nistration ; and there is one remarkable feature in it,
that the emperors have never trusted the members of
their own family, or committed power into their hands.
The latter have, in fact, been the pensioners of imperial
bounty, and have lived , as it were, under surveillance
within the palace.
460 SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT.
It is remarkable that the Tartars, instead of altering
the institutions of China, conformed themselves to the
laws and customs pre -existing in the country ; so that
China, in reality, changed neither its manners, its in
stitutions, its social habits, nor its language, by the
conquest, but simply its rulers. This fell in completely
with the views of Mencius, their greatest philosopher
next to Confucius, who says in his works, “ I have heard
of the barbarians being improved by the Chinese, but I
never heard of the Chinese being improved by the bar
barians.” When we remember that the present empire
of China extends over an area of three millions of square
miles, and that this immense territory, with its hundreds
of millions of inhabitants, is ruled by one man, whose
authority radiates from Pekin , as the centre, to the ex
treme points of his dominions, we must admit that there
must exist great regularity, comprebensiveness of system ,
and efficiency of government, which can hold so vast an
empire together, and keep its machinery in proper
motion .
Little remains to be said concerning the rest of
the short period of the detention of our forces at
Nankin. On the 15th of September, the Emperor's
positive assent to the treaty, signed by his Commis
sioners on the 29th of August, was received at Nankin ;
and there now appeared to be every certainty that the
peace would be of a lasting nature.
All were now anxious to quit the river without delay,
in which so many brave men had already found a grave,
through sickuess. Every ship was full of invalids ; in
many of them full one-third of the crew were unable to
SICKNESS OF THE TROOPS. 461
work , and in some even more. The officers appeared to
suffer equally with the men ; and on this account some of
the transports were in a pitiable condition . The recovery
of the men was extremely slow, and, even after the fever
was apparently cured, relapses were very frequent. There
are no means, however, of ascertaining the actual num
ber of deaths which occurred, but in some ships they
were numerous. Among the troops, the 98th regiment
and the Bengal Volunteers suffered the most ; but the
latter were affected more by their confinement on board
ship, and by the voluntary starvation to which they sub
mitted, on account of the prejudices of their religion,
than by the mere effect of climate. They principally
suffered from dysentery, occasioned by their abstinence
from proper food. Most of them being Rajpoots, high
caste Hindoos, they were prohibited by their supersti
tion from eating any food cooked on board ship. Dry
rice and gram (a shrivelled pea, of which sheep and
cattle are very fond ), constituted almost the only food
they would eat, and edible tobacco their only luxury.
Medicine could afford little aid to men under these cir
cumstances ; and they preferred death to the violation of
their religious feelings ; indeed it was not until the sur
vivors reached Hong Kong, and were sent ashore to live
in tents, in order to be able to cook proper food for
themselves, that they began to recover strength enough
to enable them to support the remainder of the voyage
to Calcutta.
While the Hindoos suffered thus severely, the few
Mohammedans who were in the regiment escaped almost
without sickness, and there was scarcely a death amongst
462 SICKNESS OF THE TROOPS .
them . A finer regiment than the Bengal Volunteers,
when they arrived in China only a few weeks before,
nine hundred strong, could hardly be seen. They were
even seven hundred and fifty strong when they landed
at Nankin , after having been in action at Chin-Keang ;
and yet, when the regiment arrived in Calcutta, there
were less than four hundred survivors. Indeed, there
were little more than three hundred upon the field when
they were reviewed at Barrackpore, with the rest of the
garrison, by Sir Hugh Gough.
Before leaving Nankin , the ceremony of conferring
the order of the Grand Cross of the Bath upon Sir Hugh
Gough was performed on board the Cornwallis, with all
the attendant marks of honour. As it was directed that
it should take place in the most public manner possible,
the high Chinese officers were invited to attend, and
every preparation was made to give éclat to the pro
ceedings. Very few of the Chinese came to witness it ,
but a few were sufficient to make known to their coun
trymen generally, that great honours were being con
ferred upon the English General, for his successes against
their best troops. A speech was of course made by Sir
Henry Pottinger, on presenting the decoration, full of
handsome and well-deserved eulogy, and was replied to
with evident feeling by the venerable Sir Hugh Gough.
Salutes were fired , the band played, and every thing
passed off very gaily ; and refreshments in the Admiral's
cabin served to warm the hearts of the Chinese visiters
even towards their recent enemies.
As soon as it became generally known among the
Chinese that the Emperor's assent to all our terms had
THE TREATY RATIFIED . 463
been received, and that lasting peace was to be esta
blished between the two nations, the people generally,
both in the suburbs and in the neighbourhood of the
city, became very friendly and well-disposed . Even the
soldiers looked down and smiled from the city walls ;
and on one occasion, as a party was returning from a
visit to the Porcelain Tower, upon the top of which they
had drank to the health of the Queen of England, and
lasting peace with China, in champagne, they went close
up to one of the gates, upon the battlements of which a
number of Tartar soldiers were standing, looking quietly
on. They hailed the Tartars good-humouredly, and
some cigars were offered to them, which they seemed in
clined to accept ; then aa bottle of champagne was held
out to them, and they soon procured a basket, which
they let down to receive the welcome presents, with
which they appeared much pleased . Shortly afterwards
a military mandarin made his appearance, and seemed
very angry at the incident, complaining that it was not
right to attempt to bribe his men.
Towards the end of September, the different trans
ports and ships of war began to move down the river.
The steamers were now almost entirely supplied with
Nankin coal, immense heaps of which were found regu
larly stored up along the banks of the river, nearly in
front of the city.
Enormous piles of excellent firewood were also found
very near the coal depôts, so that there was no inconve
nience whatever from the want of fuel. This is a matter
of the utmost importance, as, in case of our being under
the necessity of paying a second visit to Nankin, it is
464 CHINESE STOKERS .
satisfactory to know beforehand that fuel for steamers
can be procured on the spot.
It is here worth while to mention also, that for nearly
a year and a half the Nemesis had eight Chinamen on
board , as firemen and stokers. They were originally
handed over from the Wellesley, at Chusan ; the temp
tation of twelve dollars each, per month, induced them
>
to enter on board the Nemesis, and they did their work
remarkably well. They were not discharged until the
Nemesis carried them down to Canton, to which place
they belonged, but they never were compelled to remain ,
nor were they called upon to go in the boats to fight.
But, whenever a place was captured, and a little plunder
was to be got, they were always anxious enough to go
ashore, and proved themselves most expert thieves. In
deed, this was one of the inducements for them to con
tinue in the Nemesis. Nevertheless , they appeared
not to show the slightest sympathy for their country
men , and one of them even volunteered to go ashore
armed, in company with our seamen, in order, as he said ,,
to be able to “ have a crack at a mandarin .” In fact,
the people of the north and south of China have no
fellow - feeling for each other, and the inhabitants of
different provinces seem to be often as opposed to each
other in their prejudices, as if they almost belonged to
different nations .
The descent of the river was in some respects more
difficult for the squadron than the ascent, particularly as
the buoys, which had been laid down to mark the
channel, had been removed by the Chinese in the in
terim . Under these circumstances, and in the absence
RETURN OF THE FLEET . 465
of proper charts of the river, it is highly creditable to
the transports that they all succeeded in getting down
without any serious accident . Steamers generally went
ahead, and gave the soundings by signal, notwithstanding
which, most of the ships got aground several times. The
weather was now very unsettled and hazy, as the north
east monsoon was just setting in, and this added, of
course, to the difficulty.
The Plenipotentiary, together with the Admiral and
General , paid a visit to Shanghai , on their arrival at
Woosung ; and the arrangements respecting the ransom
of the town , which was to be considered as part of the
money paid under the terms of the treaty , were now
completed , and the money was shipped ; by this pay
ment, the first instalment of 6,000,000 dollars was com
pleted .
At the end of October, the whole of the fleet had
finally quitted the Yangtze Keang, and were assembled
in the beautiful harbours of Chusan. I never remember to
have witnessed so pictusesque and striking a scene as was
there presented to view. Both the outer and inner har
bours were crowded with men -of-war, transports, and
steamers. It rarely falls to any one to have the good
fortune to witness so large a fleet assembled together.
The troops on board the transports, the boats constantly
passing and repassing, the bands playing, and the perfect
good feeling and friendliness which prevailed through
out our forces, both between the army and navy , and
between the different corps and ships individually, made
a cheerful impression upon all, and added greatly to the
VOL. II . HH
466 IMPORTANT PROCLAMATION .
real satisfaction derived from the glorious termination of
the war .
While at Chusan, the Plenipotentiary issued a very
important proclamation, prohibiting all English mer
chant vessels from going to any of the ports newly
opened by the treaty, until the tariffs and scale of duties
should be fixed , and the proper machinery prepared
both by the Chinese and the English governments, for
conducting the trade. These regulations and the tariff
have now at length been published by Sir Henry Pot
tinger, and evince, in no ordinary degree, both his
talents as a diplomatist ( for it must have required no
little tact and judgment to have enabled him to obtain
these concessions from the Chinese ), and his clear dis
cernment and energy , as a man of business .
While the fleet was detained at Chusan, the Nemesis
was once more hauled on shore for repairs, having been
a good deal shaken by the heavy work she had done in
the river ; on careful examination, however, she was
found less injured than had been expected, and gave
strong proof of the advantage of iron steamers in river
service.
About the middle of November nearly all our ships
had reassembled at Hong Kong. It was a most ani
mated and bustling scene, and during the two or three
weeks in which our forces were detained there, the Chinese
reaped a rich harvest, from the sale of Chinese manu
factures and curiosities, which were eagerly sought for.
From various causes, our forces were detained at
Hong Kong longer than had been expected, and in some
DISTURBANCES AT CANTON . 467
respects it happened fortunately, although the weather
had become excessively cold and trying for the men . On
the 7th of December disturbances took place at Canton ,
which resulted in the total destruction of the old com
pany's factory , the Dutch factory (occupied by American
merchants ), and the adjacent extensive buildings, called
the Creek Hong. As this event produced great alarm
in the minds of the foreign residents in China, and even
produced an impression upon the minds of mercantile peo
ple at a distance, who were, in consequence, led to doubt
a
the practicability of maintaining peaceable relations with
the Chinese for any length of time, some few details will
be necessary .
It is proper to remark that the community of Canton
differs in many respects from that of any other part of
China.. Long accustomed to a profitable intercourse
with foreigners, and encouraged by their government to
look upon them as an inferior, or, at all events, a less
favoured race, arrogant also in proportion to their igno
rance, they could not reconcile to themselves the advan
tageous terms which had been exacted, as the price of
peace, from the Emperor ; and forgetting the numerous
lessons they had been taught in the Canton river, they
believed they could still have succeeded against the
foreigner, had their professed patriotism been appealed
to, and their proud spirit permitted to pour forth its
vengeance.
It is also to be remembered that, in a large commer
cial city like Canton, a great number of bad and discon
tented characters are collected from all quarters. Its
reputation for wealth made it a desirable field for the
нно
468 DISTURBANCES
adventurer ; while the prospect of the loss of a great por
tion of its trade served to produce a general discontent
among the residents. Every great change, however, is
commonly attended with some difficulty at first; nor was
it likely that the people of Canton could readily forget the
day when our troops dictated terms for the ransom of the
city, from the heights above it. Moreover, a great part
of them really believed that they had been betrayed, and
that treachery or bribery had been used , rather to fa
vour us than to spare the city ; while they scarcely
doubted that the large bodies of militia, or self-styled
patriots, who continued to hover about the rear of Sir
Hugh Gough's army while upon the heights, would have
sufficed to have driven him back again to his ships .
Such was the effect of popular ignorance and vanity.
For some days previous to the actual disturbances,
there had been rumours of an intended rising against
the English . Hints were given by some of the people
of the establishments belonging to the Hong merchants,
that something unusual would happen , and, in fact,
that people were combining together for no good osten
sible purpose. I happened to be at Canton at the time,
and could not help noticing the eagerness with which the
crowds of passers-by were reading anonymous placards
pasted upon the walls, in the narrow streets at the back
of the factories. These documents professed to publish
the sentiments of the patriotic gentry and people belong
ing to the neighbourhood of Canton . They misstated
the terms of the treaty, and asserted the belief, that
foreigners were hereafter coming to build houses for
themselves at Canton, and to reside there with their
AT CANTON . 469
families. This was, in fact, the great object of their
dread, or rather this was the principal argument they
used to endeavour to rouse the people generally to resist,
“ and not to allow a single foreigner to remain .”
The promiscuous residence of foreigners in China
was certainly never contemplated by the terms of the
treaty, but there was a report at Canton (whether well
founded or not I cannot say), that somebody (said to
to be an American ), did at one time actually propose to
purchase land of the Chinese at Honan, opposite the
factories, for the purpose of building on it. And a fur
ther support was given to the suppositions of the
Chinese, by the appearance of three or four English
ladies (wives of captains of ships at Whampoa) in the
streets of Canton.
I remember well what a sensation it created, when
these ladies were seen proceeding up China Street ,
accompanied by their children (and, of course, by their
husbands). The novelty of their dress and personal ap
pearance was the least part of the business. It was an
infraction of all the established usages of the Chinese ;
for not only had no foreign ladies been hitherto seen in
the streets, but not even Chinese ladies are ever to be
seen in public, except in sedan -chairs. On this occa
sion , the people offered neither violence nor insult, and,
indeed, a few policemen were stationed close to the
factories, to prevent the pressure of the crowd . In the
evening they embarked again in their boats, and pro
ceeded down the river.
There is no question that this little incident had a
very bad effect upon the feelings of the Chinese. As a
470 DISTURBANCES
proof of this, it is right to mention that the same persons
again came up a few days afterwards, and resided with
their husbands in one of the factories, and that that
very factory was the first attacked , and unquestionably
the object was to drive out the foreign ladies, as much
as it was to plunder. They escaped , with the utmost
difficulty and danger, by a back way, and were received
into one of the Hong merchant's warehouses until
they could be conveyed down the river. But the
mob destroyed and tore into shreds every article of
their wardrobe which they could find.
In justice to the Chinese, and to the very proper and
cautious measures adopted by Sir Henry Pottinger, this
incident cannot be omitted. But the mob evidently
had its leaders ; and many of the people were said to
be provided with little bags of gunpowder, for the pur
pose of setting fire to the buildings. There was cer
tainly some preconcerted scheme or other, although the
occurrence of the outbreak on that particular day was
a matter of accident.
Nevertheless, when we remember that, on more than
one previous occasion, disturbances had occurred, and
that a great part of the factories had already once been
burnt down, we wonder the less at the recurrence of
an outrage in a city such as Canton. Disputes first arose
in the early part of the day ( 7th December) between a
number of Lascars, who were on leave from Whampoa,
and some of the shopkeepers of Canton . The Lascars
are generally allowed to trade a little on their own
private account, and are in the habit of carrying back
to India a great variety of articles, of little cost, pur
AT CANTON . 471
chased in China. On this occasion , a very large number
of them were allowed to come up to Canton together ;
hard bargains were driven , and doubtless there were
faults on both sides. High words soon led to blows and
squabbles in some of the back streets ; the disturbance
naturally increased by the accession of recruits to both
sides, stones flew and sticks were used, and at length
the Lascars were driven out of the back streets into one
of the unoccupied hongs, called the Creek Hong, which
still remained unrepaired since the general pillage of
the factories in the previous year.
For some time, both parties remained quiet, and
probably those Chinamen who commenced the disturb
ance had little to do with what afterwards happened.
Towards evening, numbers of suspicious-looking people
began to collect together, in front of the factories.
Something serious was now anticipated, and the Euro
pean residents began to barricade their doors and win
dows, and to endeavour to secure their books and
treasure as well as they could . One of the first objects
upon which an attack was made by the mob was the
British flag -staff in the Company's garden, into which
they forced their way. The staff was soon set on fire
(there was no flag ), and the blaze was followed by a
general shout.
The British factory, which was then undergoing
repair, was the next object of violence. The workmen
within it defended it for some time, but the mob at
last got in, and were thus enabled to force their
way from the balcony into the adjoining building
(formerly part of the Company's hong), in which the
472 DISTURBANCES
ladies were staying with their friends. Fortunately,
however, they had already been conveyed away to a
place of safety.
Elated with success, the mob gradually attacked the
other adjoining factories, particularly that which was
formerly occupied by the Dutch , but which was then
rented by an American firm . Here aa stand was made
with firearms against the invaders for some time, and
two or three of them were shot. At length, however,
they prevailed ; and the American gentlemen had a
narrow escape in reaching their boats, but were only
able to save a small quantity of the treasure.
Gradually the crowd increased, as the night set in ;
parts of the factories were already on fire, and if the
wind had been high, instead of being nearly calm, it is
impossible to say where the destruction would have
stopped, in a city like Canton.
It will be asked whether no attempt was made by the
Chinese authorities to disperse the mob. For some
time they seem to have been actually themselves afraid
of encountering the mob ; and a small party of police
runners and soldiers, who were sent down in the first
instance, were said to have been driven off. It must
not be supposed that all, or even a quarter part, of the
foreign factories were burnt down. None of the rest
were injured, except those situated between Hog Lane
and the Creek. Towards morning the mob began to be
satiated with what they had done, and a large body of
soldiers coming down into the square in front of the
factories, headed by their proper officers, soon managed
to enforce quiet. They retained possession of the
AT CANTON . 473
square, and pitched their tents, as if they were to be
stationed there for some time.
The alarm created by these violent proceedings
among the foreign community was of course very great
indeed. Many were at first inclined to think that it was
only the commencement of a series of similar outrages,
which would lead to a rupture of the peace. When
the report of what had happened first reached Macao
and Hong Kong, it was considered almost too serious
to be believed ; or at least it was thought to be very
much exaggerated . But when the truth of the whole
previous account came to be ascertained, it gave rise to
a sort of dread of some great disaster , and it was
thought that it would be impossible to carry on the
trade in future except under the protection of our guns.
Whatever the plans of the Chinese may have been ,
the arrival of the Proserpine steamer on the following
morning at Canton tended very much to reassure the
European community. Sir Hugh Gough had requested
to be conveyed in her to Canton, merely for the purpose
of visiting the town, and it was quite a matter of for
tunate accident that she arrived there just when she
was most wanted. Communications passed between Sir
Hugh Gough and the authorities, who gave every assu
rance of their desire to maintain tranquillity. But the
difficulty was, as to their power to carry out their own
wishes. It was doubted whether their soldiers could be
depended on, and Sir Hugh Gough, therefore, acceded
to the request of the merchants, to allow the Proserpine
to remain off the factories until communications could
be received from Sir Henry Pottinger.
474 DISTURBANCES
In every point of view, this was now a very critical
moment . A single false move, or one hasty step,
would have led to collision and difficulty, and might
have endangered the existence of the peace for which
we had so long been struggling. The utmost caution
and good judgment were required to allay the angry
feelings on both sides ; and it would have ill become us
to have assumed the appearance of almost inviting the
renewal of a collision with a proud susceptible govern
ment, when their high officers declared themselves
“ both willing and able to control their own people, and
to protect foreigners.”
The merchants at Canton addressed Sir Henry Pot
tinger, with a view to obtain from him protection for
their persons and property while carrying on their trade
at Canton ; they expressed their firm belief that there
was a prevailing spirit of hostility to the English among
certain classes in Canton, by whom the mob were influ
enced, and that unless armed protection (amounting in
reality to armed intervention ) were afforded to them ,
it would be impossible for them to carry on their busi
ness, except through the means of American agency .
But this kind of assistance was generally deprecated
by the merchants, as tending not only to throw business
into the hands of the Americans , for the time, but also
to establish it permanently in their favour, to the detri
ment of our own mercantile interests.
It cannot be denied that, after the commencement of
the war, the business of the American merchants had
increased almost tenfold ; indeed , the American houses
occupied by far the greater part of all the factories.
AT CANTON . 475
Many of them, in the first instance, acted only as agents
for the English merchants in China, but gradually they
became the correspondents of our merchants and manu
facturers at home and elsewhere ; so that, besides the
vast increase of American business with America, there
had grown up a prodigious extent of American agency
with England .
But this was in fact one of the natural consequences
of the war, and could only be counteracted by a cessa
tion of war—that is, by absolute peace. It is evident,
however, that it would be any thing but a peaceable
mode of conducting commerce, to carry it on under
the protection of our guns, after peace was proclaimed ;
nor could it fail to keep alive those very feelings of irrita
tion which it was so desirable to pacify, while it might en
gender new difficulties, the result of which could not be
foreseen ; though the protection asked for was only of a
temporary kind .
The reply of Sir Henry Pottinger to the merchants
was a long and harshly expressed document. It seemed
to have been written on the spur of the moment, and
probably another day's reflection would have softened
its terms. It amounted in fact to a rebuke, addressed
to the merchants ; part of which had little reference
to the matter in question. The impression of the Ple
nipotentiary seems to have been , that the foreign com
munity were altogether in the wrong ; and his Ex
cellency certainly had in view the extensive, and one
may almost say acknowledged, smuggling; not only of
opium , but of every description of exports and imports
which were liable to duty, in the Canton river.
476 EVASION OF DUTIES .
This abuse had reached an enormous height, and
the local officers were in a great measure privy to it ;
but the systematic manner in which it was conducted
on our side was undoubtedly a source of great annoy
ance and perplexity to Sir Henry Pottinger. It was
not confined to the well-armed and well-appointed
opium vessels, which were then lying even at Whampoa,
but there was every kind of evasion of duties openly
carried on, even to that of the duties payable on the
ships themselves.
It cannot be denied that cargoes were transshipped
at night, from vessels which had paid the charges, into
smaller ones which had not done so, and which then
removed lower down the river. The full knowledge of
these facts certainly had its effect in suggesting the
tone of some part of Sir Henry's letter. In other
respects, nothing could be more firm and positive
than the reply to the actual request made for armed
protection. “ I need only remark ,” he adds, “ that I
should and shall very truly regret the loss and incon
venience to which you would be exposed by being forced
to withdraw from Canton. I trust, however, that it
will be averted through the measures which I have in
view ; but I must at once finally, most explicitly, and
candidly acquaint you , that no conceivable circum
stances should induce me to place her Majesty's govern
ment in so false and undignified a position, as I should
consider it would be placed in, were I to send troops
and ships of war to Canton, in opposition to the request
and wishes of the local government.”
It was undoubtedly a critical moment of our inter
THE NEMESIS AT CANTON . 477
course with the Chinese ; and, therefore, we may now
ask what steps Sir Henry Pottinger did take upon this
occasion. He addressed a letter upon the subject to
the Viceroy of Canton, and sent it up by the Nemesis.
It would be difficult to say that this was not the wisest
and most dignified course to pursue.. If the Viceroy
should declare either his inability or his unwillingness
to protect the foreign community, then indeed would
be the proper time for intervention , in order to secure
to them that protection which they needed.
Captain Hall had previously gone up as a passenger
in the Proserpine, with Captain Hough, to Canton ; but
the moment it was ascertained that the Nemesis had
passed the Bogue, in charge of his chief officer, he
went down to meet her, and brought her safely straight
up to Canton from Whampoa, passing through the
passage between the stakes below Napier's fort, and
then taking the left-hand passage, by the low alluvial
island. The Proserpine had previously, for the first
time, been carried up the right-hand passage. Both of
these lead up to nearly the same point, opposite the
French Folly .
Great was the rejoicing of all the foreigners at Can
ton, the moment they recognized their old friend the
Nemesis approaching. And who that had once seen
her could ever mistake her appearance, with her two
huge eyes upon the bows, in true Chinese fashion !
On this occasion, the captains of the merchant -vessels
at Whampoa volunteered to lend their services, if neces
sary . There was great uncertainty as to what might
happen, and it was reported that an attempt would be
478 A POINT OF ETIQUETTE .
made upon the steamer at night. It was not forgotten
that on former occasions fire - rafts had been sent down
the river to destroy the shipping, and it was necessary
that the Nemesis and Proserpine should be prepared.
The assistance of two boats only was accepted, one
from the William Money, under Captain Bickford, and
another from the Edinburgh, under Captain Paterson.
Both boats were well armed and manned, and were of
great use in guarding against a surprise.
Mr. Medhurst had come up in the Nemesis, as inter
preter, in charge of Sir Henry Pottinger's letter to the
Viceroy ; and the question now was, to whom, or
through whom , was it to be delivered ? It was satis
factory to observe that a great number of Chinese
soldiers were encamped on the ground in front of the
factories, for the protection of the foreigners. They
were evidently some of their best soldiers, for they
were well-dressed
- and properly armed . Each tent was
appropriated to about six men ; and one of their large,
long shields, placed upright, served as a door to each ;
their arms were all in readiness, and sentries were
placed .. As for the men themselves, their only occu
pation or amusement seemed to be gambling all the
day long.
At first the Hong merchants proposed to receive the
letter, but that was, of course, objected to. Then the
Kwang -chow -foo, or Prefect, wished it to be handed
over to him on shore, but that was also refused. It
was intimated that it could only be delivered to him on
the quarter-deck of the steamer. At length a man
darin , who spoke a little English , having formerly been
A POINT OF ETIQUETTE . 479
employed in one of the Hong merchant's establishments,
came alongside, and proposed that Captain Hall should
go into the Prefect's boat, and there deliver the letter,
under the pretence that the Prefect was an old man,
and could not get up the ship's side. All these were
little attempts at evasion to save his dignity. It was,
however, insisted that the Prefect should come on board
the Nemesis, and there receive the communication, and
he might bring as many of the Hong merchants with
him as he pleased.
At length, finding that nothing was to be gained by
further delay, and that the days of paying court to the
Prefect were now long past, he stepped upon the quar
ter-deck of the steamer, accompanied by most of the
Hong merchants. They were all conducted into the
cabin, and were treated with plenty of cherry brandy,
which served to dispel their fears, and put them into
a good humour.
The letter was delivered in due form , with an inti
mation that it was to be laid before the Viceroy with
out delay, and that a speedy answer was expected.
They then requested that the steamers might be re
moved lower down, as their presence only tended to
keep alive the excitement. This, however, could not
be complied with . They denied altogether the report
that a large body of troops were advancing towards the
city, or that any violence or insult whatever was in
tended against the foreigners. However,, it was inti
mated that the steamers were perfectly prepared, and
that their guns would be kept loaded, ready to meet
any attack that might be made.
480 THE TABLES TURNED .
How completely the tables were now turned, since
the days of Captain Elliot's difficulties and Lord Na
pier's humiliation ! The novelty of the position could
not fail to strike all the mandarins. Here were the
once -powerful Hong merchants, and the haughty and
once - flattered Kwang -chow -foo, at length brought down
to the level of a very “ submissive ” visit on board a
small steamer, in order to receive for transmission to
the Viceroy a document couched in terms of perfect
equality. How few short years had elapsed since
scarcely even an humble " petition ” would have been
received at the city gate, without subjecting the bearer
of it to insult, and perhaps to violence !
The answer of the Viceroy was perfectly satisfac
tory ; and that it was sincere, the event has since fully
proved. He declared his great anxiety, as well as his
perfect ability, to protect all foreigners ; and, at the
same time, expressed his readiness to repay all such
losses as had been incurred during the late riots, after
they should have been correctly ascertained, and trans
mitted through her Majesty's government.
It must be remembered, that only a part of the
damage done fell directly upon the British merchants ;
for the Americans were quite as great, if not greater
sufferers, in the first instance, either as principals or
agents of British houses . Their losses could not, of
course, be included in Sir Henry Pottinger's demand,
neither is it at all likely that he would admit any such
extraordinary claims as were paid by Captain Elliot,
on account of the very figurative and certainly unde
finable item of “ personal inconvenience . ” Incon
PROSPECTS FOR CIIINA . 481
venience, of some sort or other, must be suffered by
every one who resides in a country which is at war ;
but, what might be considered very great “ incon
venience” by one man , would be little heeded by another ,
and vice versa . But the only “ inconvenience" for
which compensation was claimed , even in the most
promising period for claiming it, was on American
account. Yet ten thousand dollars was a large sum
for such an item of damage sustained .
There have been no grounds whatever for supposing
that there will be any probability of another collision
with the Chinese, to whose moderation and good faith ,
since the terms of peace have been settled, too much
justice cannot be done. When we consider the won
derful changes which have been brought about in so
short aa period of time, and these, too, in the face of a
nation the most proud, the most prejudiced, and the
vainest in the world, we cannot but look back with
wonder at all that has happened , and stand firm in our
belief that Providence has yet greater things in store
for China, mainly through the instrumentality of Eng.
land .
A new era is undoubtedly now opened for the Chi
nese ; new duties and new relations have been imposed
upon them ; but let us not forget, in the fullness of
victory, and in the pride of the human heart, that new
and highly important duties are imposed upon us also,
not lightly to be thought of, nor inconsiderately han
dled . We must take for our motto, forbearance, good
will, kindliness, honesty, and true Christian feeling.
With these as our panoply, the benefit to be derived by
VOL. II . II
482 PROSPECTS FOR CHINA .
both nations from the cautious, systematic, and prudent
exercise of the duties imposed upon each other, may
become a blessing to both . Let it also be borne in
-
mind, that qualities the reverse of these — overbearing
violence, and, above all, undue love of gain — may entail ,
not only misery and the horrors of anarchy upon a
people who proudly boast of their antiquity and of their
vast resources, but may also bring political difficulties,
with loss of dignity and of high principle, upon that
little distant speck upon the earth's surface, yet that
giant in the world's interest—Great Britain,
At the latter end of December, the whole of the
transports and ships of war not required for further
service in China sailed from Hong Kong for their
respective destinations ; and peace seemed now to
reign throughout the whole of that vast portion of the
east .
DEPARTURE FROM MACAO . 483
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
Departure from Macao— Voyage along the coast towards Hainan - Pira
tical fishing-boats - Bay of Liengsoy described - Fishing village
Mandarin station -- Galong bay - Good shelter - Picturesque country
-Yin-lin-kan aa beautiful harbour - Entrance into the Lagoon - Dis
covery of a river — Excursion into the interior— Appearance of the
country - Curious buffalo carts — Cocoa - nut woods — Observations on
the people — Villages — Tea-shops — Interesting journey — Party of
prisoners and mandarins — An inn by the road side - Stopping the
mandarin's chairs and horses—Civility of the peasants -- Return to the
boats - Hall's river - Coast of Cochin -China - Phuyen harbour - De
scription of it - Good place of refuge -- Appearance of the country
Curious burial-ground - New kind of fishing -boats - Odd contrivance
- Arrival at Singapore , Malacca — Its fallen condition - Penang re
visited— Moulmein - Remarks on — Frontier of Birmah — Elephant
riding - Remarkable caves — Arrival at Calcutta – Review at Barrack
pore — Conclusion .
Before daylight on the morning of the 23rd of De
cember, the Nemesis was destined to take her depar
ture from Macao, and probably to bid adieu to China
for ever . It is not too much to say, that she was
regretted by all. She had been so long and so favour
ably known to the whole community, so beloved by
Europeans, in proportion as she was dreaded by the
Chinese, and so many had been witnesses to the services
112
484 DEPARTURE OF NEMESIS .
and the kindvess of her oflicers, upon many trying
occasions, that it almost seemed to them like losing an
old and tried friend to part with the Nemesis. On
their side, too, the officers of the vessel had much
reason to be thankful for the many kindnesses and
attentions they had always received from the British
community, and to be proud of the friendship and the
good -wishes, no less than of the honours, which they
had won for themselves.
Before three o'clock, the Nemesis was under weigh ;
and the discharge of a few rockets and the report of
her guns gave notice of her departure to the still
sleeping inhabitants, who were quite unused to the dis
turbance at that early hour in the morning. It caused
some little alarm among the inmates of the houses on
the Praya Grande, fronting the bay. But the Governor,
who resides there, had been previously told, in a good
humoured way, that he must not be alarmed at a little
noise during the night. When daylight broke, tlie
Nemesis was out of sight of Macao.
As the extent of the wear and tear of the vessel ,
after three years' service of a trying kind, was not pre
cisely known, it was not thought prudent to run out
into the middle of the China Sea, during the strength
of the monsoon . She therefore coasted along towards
the island of Hainan, in order that she might be able to
take shelter, if a gale came on . It was perhaps fortu
nate that she did so. The weather was extremely plea
sant and warm , but looked unsettled. The appearance of
1
The author was on board during this voyage, as a personal friend of
Captain Ilall.
HAINAN BAY . 485
the coast, as we ran along it, at the distance of five or
six miles, was bold and mountainous, but not very
fertile, as far as we could judge at that distance.
In the course of the day, we passed through a large
fleet of fishing-junks, dragging their huge nets before
the wind . The Chinese fishermen did not appear alarmed
at the approach of the steamer, and from one of them
we procured an enormous fish, weighing no less than
eighty-eight pounds, and differing in appearance from
any we had hitherto seen . It had a large flat head ,
but small mouth, and was of a greenish yellow colour.
When dressed, it was found eatable, but rather strong.
We soon passed very near the curious conical rock ,
called the Mandarin's Peak or Cap, and kept the coast
in view until dark . On the following day, the weather
was extremely hazy and unsettled, and there was a heavy
swell setting in from seaward. We had hoped to have
been able to land on Ilainan on Christmas-day, and to
have drank the health of absent friends on terra firma ;
but the hazy weather detained the vessel, and she only
anchored , as the night set in, in a fine sandy bay in
seven fathoms water ; the wind howled over our heads,
and made it the more satisfactory that we had kept
near the land.
As mention has been made of having passed through
a fleet of fishing - junks, it will be proper liere to warn
all vessels against being off their guard on such occa
sions. The fishermen along the whole coast of this
part of China, as far as Canton, are rogues, pirates,
smugglers - in short, ready to take advantage of any
opportunity, honest or otherwise, of benefitting them
486 NECESSARY CAUTION .
selves. They will perhaps appear quite friendly at
first; and, if they then find that a vessel is not prepared
to resist, or if they think that they could overpower
her, the chances are that they would not hesitate to
make the attempt, when least expected . Never trust
yourself in a strange place ashore without at least one
double-barrelled pistol in your pocket, and never admit
a Chinaman on board (if a number of fishing -boats are
about) on this coast, without being prepared to prevent
treachery. This caution is not unnecessary to ordinary
merchant vessels, because it commonly happens that,
although they have arms on board, the ammunition can
seldom be found when it is wanted in a hurry , and not
unfrequently, when the barrels of the muskets are clean
and the bayonets bright, the locks have got no flints .
It is at night that the Chinese would be most likely to
make the attempt, and for this reason the opium clip
pers are always well armed and manned . This is found
necessary for their own protection, and not, as many
have supposed, to compel the Chinese to purchase the
drug.
The bay in which we anchored was situated a little
to the eastward of Liengsoy, or Tongsoy Bay, as laid
down in the charts. On the following morning, as we
proceeded towards the latter bay, we could clearly
distinguish a sunken reef, running out from the east
point of it, to the distance of nearly a mile . At the
extremity of it, numerous fishing-boats were busily
occupied, and with some difficulty a pilot was procured
from one of them , to take us into Liengsoy Bay. He
was found of little use, as it was easy to make our way
CHINESE INDIFFERENCE . 487
in without him ; but he seemed highly pleased when a
dollar was given to him , with a view to encourage others
to come to the assistance of any other vessel that might
require a pilot.
Liengsoy is a fine bay, perfectly sheltered during the
north -east monsoon , but aa little exposed to the south
west. From the depth of the bay, and from its being
sheltered to the westward by a long chain of rocky
mountains, it is well protected on that side, while the
long reef forms a natural breakwater upon the east
side. It is open only to the southward ; and, from the
height to which the sand is blown up upon the northern
beach, it is evident that the wind sets in sometimes
with great violence.
We had an instance here of the indifference of the
Chinese towards each other, when life is in danger. One
of their fishing -boats, which was towing astern, was
upset, owing to the rapid motion of the wheels. Several
other Chinese boats were at hand, yet not one of them
would pull towards the two drowning men , to rescue them .
They looked on with perfect indifference. The men
were, however, saved by a boat sent from the steamer ;
and the rest of the Chinamen who would not assist
got a good drubbing with a broomstick for their in
difference .
At the extremity of the bay was a narrow opening
not very easily seen at a distance, which led into a
large salt -water lagoon. We pulled towards it in the
steamer's cutter, and soon discovered a small half-dila
pidated stone fort, on the left hand , near which was a
small government station, distinguished by its flag, but
488 A CHINESE VILLAGE .
the inmates (although one of them , a fine stout fellow ,
was probably a mandarin) were very poor and humble.
They invited us to land, and very civilly gave us tea,
and let us smoke our cigars in their small dwelling,
built of half mud, half mats, but more comfortable
within than the exterior promised. Thence we walked
along a fine sandy beach, bordering the lagoon, until
we came to a tolerable village situated in the middle of
a fine cocoa-tree plantation . It appeared to be prin
cipally inhabited by fishermen, fine, stout , well-made
people ; and the large quantity of sharks' fins which
were fixed upon stakes, and put out to be dried by the
sun, along the edge of the lagoon, sufficiently indicated
the principal occupation of the people. The huts were
built of coral, mud, and bamboo, and were ranged in
long lines or lanes, and the people seemed generally well
clothed and happy. The women were not secluded,
but came out to look at our party, almost as freely as
the men . All appeared good -humoured and well dis
posed, and had plenty of ducks, fowls, and pigs, which
they offered for sale. It was noticed that, even in this
poor little fishing- village, people were seen reading or
writing in almost every one of the little shops. As we
left it again, the villagers amused themselves by letting
off crackers in all directions—a Chinaman's delight.
Numbers of the people followed us down to the boat
again ; and two or three rupees, distributed among the
most deserving, put them all in a good humour.
We could not ascertain whether any river flowed into
the lagoon or not, but no fresh water was seen , although,
from the greater number of trees and the appearance of
GALONG BAY . 489
vegetation at the upper extremity of it, about a mile
and a half distant, we thought it probable that a small
river opened into the lagoon .
Having rejoined the steamer, we stood out of the
bay again , and, having rounded the western extremity,
formed by the range of hills which run quite down to
the coast, proceeded along shore for about a mile, until
No comments yet.
Private notes are available after approval.