1950-09-30 — Page 8

The 'new

Maenson

SPORTS TROUSERS

Martwill

in

Made from a new cloth specialty worsted developed from the cavalry twill of the hunting felt and woven exclusiv ziy for Muensor",

WITH It

characteristic diagonal weave, MarTwill fast beautifully. free, easy and light despite is firm, tough textu..

Truly outstanding, bar wearing, gand natured cloth, mudds to be different and made for its job,

In a newtyleuels material elaTours fur new treatment. flere te makers have hen careful to uvolt extremes, however triking. There is therefore, nothing eccentric shout the fronts, but gave them n canal glance and you ertainly look aenin! The difference is plenting and authentic, technically concerned with length, width and the tone of the many ha m

•

FAWN: MID BROWN: RUSSET

MACKINTOSH'S

13, CHATER ROAD

FOR THE

FINEST

DIAMONDS

*

TAI HANG JEWELLERY

bate Agents for,

LIBERTY DIAMOND WORKS LTD. Johannesburg.

Room 707. 7th Floor, Dank of Last Asia Bldg. Telephone 21380

Hongkong's Popular Ceylon Tea

RICKSHAW BRAND

SOOVILLA

GARDEN

Ricksh

FLOWERY

PEKOE XXX

Brand Ceylon Tea

ON SALE EVERYWHERE

Letterheads

Personal....

Business...

Fine Quality Printing and Design

SOUTH

CHINA MORNING POST

TEL: 266 ||

THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER. 1950.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

A MEDLEY OF FASHION IDEAS

LONDON. E hear on a sides

that the

now fashions consist of enveloping curves which banish spare boyish lines (chemisier styles) and re- vive a more feminine sil- houette. This may be so, but the fact remains that one of our best known couturiers, Digby Morton. who showed a collecction of straight lines, and few

Spectator Sports showed some excellent ski-ing outfits, which could be

-Wom for country walking tit you wlahed to create more than your fair share of attention!) With ane werd

model, In black, there leopard skin gloves, collar ant boots; with another, there were two shirts, one floral, the other half yellow, half black.

the

Plaid slacks, narrow at ankle, were wom with a blan- ket

pinid Jaekel, belled, looking very French-Canadian, and ap. propriately named "Quebec," Going back for

curves han had a great success in Paris, He took inspiration his models, all made of fabrica by the leading British wool manufacturers, to the French capital and showed them to an appre- ciative and critical nudience of American, French and British buyers.

From this same designer came a deep tangerine brocade suit

hich collor. rounded with

back shoulders, small bow on basque, and back fullness. Deeply curved ICVCTX opened wide over a pleated vest. In otlier collections 100, are Regency colour-pale green, shell pink, as striped wilk

By Joan Erskine

Several leading! personalities satin. A black satin coat nur- from the house of Chrislinn rowly striped with rows ot Dlor attended, interested in requins, aid materials strongly studying British fabrics kely to reminiscent of Beau Brummel's appeal to Dior for his next col waistcoats help the illusion, lezlon.

Uncompromisingly straight

tt

Illustrated on this page is suit typical of the uncompro- mising straight line," and one of the first couture photographs to be released. It is in dark live and black plaid wool, and features low double row button- Ing, continued on the skirt. 11 will make many women wonder

they really want to be one | Jump ahead of fashion.

Quite different, but also very new, is the unge green velour coat with wide cuffs, one large pocket, and no buttons, by Mall. It is lined with mus- quash, which

also forms the collar. This swirling the is comfortable and attractive, and It is shown here worn over green and belge tweed dress.

Parls designers, niways look- ing out for new ideas, have bandoned all smooth fabrics

&

for conts, and are using rough shaggy weaves. Even course bouelettes are appearing in late Afternoon il cocktail gowns.

They go for the rough

Some of these weaves are ru long haired that they resemble iter fabrics, and one has been christened Phearth-run" by Lesur. Very Ane silks are used for trimming and lining. Lon- don designers are more conser- vative. Their shuggiest tabrics are mohair, or thick soft velour.

Designers

determined that we shall feel no draughts when winter approaches. Among new ideas recently in London are windjammers

bright 123 coloured waterproof; fabric sventers (slippersalin, facecloth welis;

are

& tweed) with knitted rincks which I tightly to the ankle and soft felt boots lacing

to the calf.

Broendes are embroidered with lover's knels and forget- me-nots, birds and leaf designs.

At a recent exhibition of ac- cessories in London we snw some of the finest leather work in the comtry. Suede, so soft that it resembled velvet, was made into flat shoes cul away at the sides, with matching belts and handbags.

HANDBAG IDEAS-A white

pique slip cover for a black conted pochelte type

Tas leather bare and binding for bags in

natural ten.

Bagt-green coat (below) lined with muse quansh by Malili with matching hat. It is worn over a green and beige tweed dress, and fo the

new "wrap-round" line.

Digby Morton's dark blue and black plaid wool sult (at right) featuring low double row bationing, which is continued on the skirt. It is typical of his very straight silm line with

no curves,

Raflin handbag lined Jacques Fath speaks of "frequent marriages of tobacco with black”

with velour.

GLOVES-The classic Ane lea- ther type with fringed ends.

Gloves

It unusual fabrics match bag and belt.

Paris' Colour Harmony

Black linen gloves with

popular in. broendes and plak short

cuffs of

most frayed

tweeds. Two tones appear in rafa, and roma Inserts

Two tans, iwa violet. tones, two the popular colour families;

rosy red tones, two blues.

PARIS. THE big revival of black is the first colour note to make on Paris openings as a whole. This is true of all black costumes, even to

as well n jewellery.

Lo Next in importance are vlo- black with colour in patine tones, including amethyst, saddle terned

and a woollens and shot bishop, parma, eggplant

ou the fingers, BELTS Suede, with appliqued design in black jet brads and net over pink.

Raffia, with adjustable handkerchief holder hanging from it. Leather, with stilching at edges, wide buckle. JEWELLERY -Halpins

and silks, black with colour,

trimming 011 combinations

of

huge bobble ends, some- black garments with colour- times of

bronce opaque ed ones as a dress overcoat.

glass covered with gold

drops

Brooches shaped like

The biggest colour combina- miniature glass perfume is black with brown

tion In the majority of showings or tan.

bottles with gold stoppers.

(They

perfume)

really do hold

Ceramic jewellery

by

makers of famous china. Wedgewood showed cameo bracelets.

Loveliest artificial flowers seen yet. Most dratnatic Was # black satin rose.

Heels are coming down:

But for men-gaiety

Tartan bootes with buckies and straps.

PUSSY, high-heeled and heavy shoes should have disappeared

by next spring when the models on show at the opening of the Shoe and Leather Fair at Olympia will be in the shops. "Shoes will be smarter but

rlainer than they have been for 10 years," said a leading abou con

manufacturer. "Women convert many of this year's

styles

Every well-dressed woman will own at least one pair of heel-less "ensuals," or,

she

in very short, "falces."

Brown

calf or two-colour suede and leather combinations will be most popular for wear and black suede or velvet for evening.

Scooped out

Jay

Wedges will only be available al a modest height and mos! wil be scooped out at the back for lightness,

Afternoon and evening shoes with heels ranging from flat to 2 Inches replace those of 3 to 34 Inches.

Smartest

day into evening shoe nt tho show was a black gabardine 2 In. toeless court shoe decorated with. black brocade.

In contrast, shippers and fur- Iined bootees are gayer than ever before.

Men's fashions are also more daring: There are shoes with square toes, double strapped, with interlaced decoration the lots, and wedgɑ heals,

-London Kaprejo · Service)

Bootee with tartan tract

Triple platform.court shoe with ankle straps.

The latter gamut includes topaz, honey and amber tones, but дечег colours arc duller shades like walnut or nutria; Balenciaga browns apparently Ko on Indefinitely.

Fath speaks of "frequent marriages <I tobacco with black." Molyneux mays "All the

shades of brown from light nut to African accompany black."

Eatable Tones

10

Balmain mentions three tobac cu tones-blond, gray, black →→ also new variants of Sanka. Denses gamut goes from a deep.

"Jet brown" fone called topaz and blond shades. Griftes browns are called "dried Ag." "blanched chocolate," and "Iced chestnut." Dior's "Cheveux de Jeanne" are ashy browns beaver ke certain hair tones. Gres prefers taupes and choco- late browns,

OF

Violin Tones

reddish fuchsia tone. They are taken from stained glass. One featured by of Balmain's strongly

beat

dresses Is Piguet and Alwynn but impor- violet jersey, while he features Lant at Dior, Fath, and Lafau. binck gloves with cuffs covered rie: Dior uses two shades for with violets worn with black the dress and the coat of en- dresses. Many others show sembles, one amethyst, another model or two, ns a shot violet In curious reddlah cast; straight and binek taffeta dinner suit al violet is used in moire, and a Molyneux, and a violet net with deoper purple in velvet. Fath's white lace for a short formal at are parma tones: Lafourie's Item.

By SUSAN DEACON

Autumn Look has fur

trimmings

[MPORTANT fashion news in the recent autumn collections is the use of fur trimmings for day and evening wear. Smooth, short-haired furs are used mainly, such as beaver, squirrel, mink, und ermine.

DRESSES, COATS, and Even hals are fur-trimmed, Full length and seven-eighth ccals haye beaver collar and cuffs.

Simple, long-sleeved day dresses have narrow strips of fur trimming at the neck and wrists.

arc

EVENING DRESSES trimmed with fur around the hemline, and oystor salin cocktail hats, shaped like dunce's

trimmed cap, are with fur at the buse.

Fur by the yard

USE FUR TRIM-

MING to reno- vale last year's clothes and bring

Shades on the autumn 1950 textile Colour Cards approxi- mating trend here include beige- bark, burlap-tan, beige-wine, biscuit brown and pate-beige, Grey also noisette of spring, 1950, coul

white

tard.

them

Mulrrel,

date,

up to and brown

and or brown

concy is,

the

many

Colour combinations recurring beaver Include bright red with green in now sold by

yard In

iridescent taffeta, in shot velvet, and in contrast garments. Two stores. neutrals together, as taupe with gray, both for yarn dye wool mixtures and colld colours. Itoyal with back is especially

Your Autumn

Jewellery

WONDERFÜL

+

autumn-gold tones run through the wools and plaids which are so popular, and there are metallic touches on the clothes for later hours. For this reason, gold jewellery will be particularly important | this season.

a

gold .a

It looks newest when it has. surface interest nugget for an earring . twisted cable bracelet,

Large stones in myriad colours are bound around with beautiful twists of gold wire, many of the pieces convertible. A cluster, of stones hung. from a gold filed chain becomes a necklace, but comes of the chain to pin' Into the lapel.

THE SQUIR- REL STRIP Is expensive. but half a yard of

STEY squirrel would trim two

pockets on a suit, or make a

high

collar on a velvet dress.

THE BEAVER

looks MGC

#

expensive. In brown. It Costa only 7%. đď. a yard. Use it to telm the lapela of a suit or follored coal, to edge an even- ing stole, or at the wrists or a

long-sleeved winter dress.

COAT

London

to

much

heavy

base. This re-

Fulls in pudding appea-

uce.

Women

I hon

blame

the make.

up. for I ook - ing cheap.

Another Coult 1 bad

ар- plica- tion of

TOUgo --- ||

}

is usually placed low.

ton

It should

be in a

triangle under

сус the

the to temple, and on a

level with the ear.

Shopping list

FREESIA

PERFUME, unobtainable since the war, is now on salo ngain.

AN AUTOMATIC TEA CADDY. You turn a knob, and a teaspoon- ful of tea comes out at the bottom of the caddy. CHINA EARRINGS flower heads and delicately painted,

like

OCELOT fur-backed gloves (this is a fashionable fur this ́season) are in the shops.

Evening classes in teach women how

BEATRIX POTTER nursery use make-up. The "pupils" are curtain material is now ол mostly women who have been sale by the yard. using make-up for years rather than lean-agers, whom would have thought needed 16- struction in this art.

*

ORO

RAGLAN-SLEEVED shown by Dior in his last col- lection (sco photograph) had a beaver collar and cuffs, These seti are now. available Brain After a few years using cos- from £5 R.

metics women frequently be- come slap-dash and heavy

dress

1

in the handed.

The evening photograph is in pleated gold Instructor in this school Y Iame with a fur-trimmed hem- that the

faulta more obvious line and muc.

WÓZNEM make are to d too

Cooking hints

When making crabapple-jelly. the dip geranium leaves into jelly to give it A diferent flavour.

Nuls aro' now cosy to buy. Chop them and sprinkle on the crust of apple pie before bak- ing. Sprinkle on fruit salad bo- fore

serving, and mix them whole in a green salad.

London Express zerosous

,,-,,