1949-09-10 — Page 6

THE FIRST SINCE THE WAR!

FINER AERTEX SHIRTS

White with long sleeves and a snug-fit collar for wear with a tic or a washable bow.

Similar light weight cloth in gift shade of blue, grey, fawn, green and puce: short sleeves.

Also a rather heavier shirt with short sleeves in white and marl effects.

All are on. show

in the window at

MACKINTOSH'S

Alexandra Building

Des Voeux Road.

YING TAI CO.

of Shanghai

MANUFACTURERS and EXPORTERS

of Embroidered Goods

LINGERIE, PADDED GOWNS, HOUSE-COATS. NIGHT COWNS, MEN'S, ROBES, PYJAMAS, MANDARIN COATS, LOUNGING PYJAMAS, EMBROIDERED BLOUSES, CHINESE ARTS, ETC.

BOLT SILK, SOOCHOW. BROCADES,

TRIBUTE SILKS and

Various Kinds of Pure Silks and Crepes

OPEN ON

Tel. 59640

SUNDAYS

27 Chung King Arcade,

Nathan Road, Kowloon

HONG KONG

Cablo Address: "YINGSILK”

INDIGESTION

".. and its resultant pains are often caused by excess stomach acidity. Phillips' Milk of Magnesio works two ways to rallave til stomach add upsel 1. As an acid stomach alkalizer, Phillips' Milk of „Magnesia is one of the fastest, most affective known to science, 2. As a gentle laxptive, Phillips' con be taken without thought of embarrassing urgency. Caution Use only as directed, in the economy bolile sire, or in handy, easy-to- corry Tablet form.

Liquid or Tablets

PHILLIPS

ATE OF MAGNESER

PHILLIPS'

MILK OF MAGNESIA

OH Boy

THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER – 10,- 1949.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

Beauty-plus

London designers set Autumn trends by Joan Erskine

NORMAN

SHAPE OF SCARFS TO COME "What's going to happen to scarfs 7" is a question buyers are asking as they give thoughts to

LONDON. autumn. Shaped scarfs and ties in cravat effect look like

HARTNELL, the leading trend with more Chairman of the Incor- tone on tone colourings,porated Society of London smaller prints (even smaller Fashion Designers, started than last year) on the early London's "Couturo" week liat. Loose linnging strips by showing us a charming and spaghetti effect liko n collection. "carnival" tie in multicolours are incoming.

***

*

*

* SCATTER FIN INFLUENCE ON BELTS—he multiple pin fashion is extending to belts where ornaments are becoming small and

on the are placed belt in cluster effects inspired by scatter pin.

**

* DON'T FORGET FEATHERS AND FLOWERS-Anxious to continue their' spring success, flower makers have thought up many

items, new

Feather scatter pins and lapel ornaments hold promise and originality. There will be autumn versions of flower scatter pins and velvet is marked for importance. Big

lica news

In leaves. Leaf novelties in autumn colours are handsome a ornaments and beller Looking even

when worked into belts, she caps and other accessories.

או

*

**

BELTS ARE KEYED TO TWEEDS-because the belted sitirt tweed cont and suit and are all big news for autumn. Rich, wum shades are replacing the brights. Deep maroon, taupe, 'many natural tones and golden Iues will have the upper hand. As is always the case in a tweed season, there will also be an

of amplitude

greens and browns.

*

* HUGE ROSE ON A LONG ROPE OF PEARLS may be worn high on the neck by pul- ling the rose through the doubled-up necklace or hangs low on a plungo when the ports are worn as a single strand. An Irma Kigere design.

BLUE BAND MARGARINE

Delicious on Sand-- wiches, nutritive

in cakes and all" cooking—it must bo BLUE. BANDI

REFRESH TACKET BLUE BAND MARGARINE

very

1

stiff

taffetas sible satins a British Arm has nearly all had narrow shoulder recently produced.

Briofly the line is: Straightor, straps, tight-atting bodices, and huge, bouffant skirts. Pockets with shortor altirts, (13"-14" were formed from n fold of from the ground) concealed material rather than by super- fullness, unpadded shoulders,

deep imposition.

necklines Alled with

etc. She Suits were severely tailored flowers, tulle, with alightly longer jackets and doubio capod. shoulders perfectly straight skirts. Bull. sketch), uneven hemlines,

warnleda werd and

used adaptable decolleto, rather thun tweeds, and Original, Warm although there was anuch grey, colours crept back.

flower-like star sequins in dif. brocades and ferent shimmering colours. This strapless dress again was worn with a liny bolero. A satin dress the colour of lend, which gleamed like metal un- der the lights, had pearl: blue, the bodice. and black bend embroidery an

The show finished, In what But he achieved a

seems to be the approved style simple clean line, by clever nowadays, with a bride. She wore a very full skirt made of scaming, tucking, and plentoyers of white nel; a gleaming ing, the shoulders

were silver thread bodice, not sleeves square, and skirts shorter, and net yoke; and her fonting. than we have been accus-

vell was held by bunches of silver flowers each side of her tomed to see lately.

hend. One of the prettlest dresses for a very young bride. Charles Creed

Most of his coats had fur on them somewhere, There were

huge silver fox collars which almost hiding the

stood up

thera from back view; head, were deep cuffs of fox round

the hems of full swinging skirts, a phantom beaver lamb chawi collar could be completely detached; and another elaberats lown coat had two wide silver fox skins from waist to hem.

Two-way Clothes

N

common with most of other has Hartnell designers, designed two-way clothes. One coat. green and black checked over a binck skirt and checked jacket, could be completely re-

to look like a

plain black versed to Vers

wine coat for town wear. A crepe blouse worn with a tweed suit, could be worn with a wine crepe sklet to form an after noon dress,

The colours used were mostly lilacs and mauves, many shades of brown, black, bronze, and new colour called "watered

dress

ne tight black velvet with strapless top shaped like a bow was worn beneath a very full black-spotted net skirt. A net fichu draped the shoulders. Hartnell's, famous mod a 1, wears her Dolores, who still blue-black

smouth coil,

exotic

hair in a wore some very

over

creations

The huge pocket of a house- coat was embroidered all with tiny coral and gold beads; a pale green grosgrain dress had epaulettes and cuts of gold and green hanging bead em- broldery; amber bending de- corated a black dress; a very full Plac nel dress with flounces at the hem sparkled with

on

ABOVE: Christian Dior measures Tania (the mannequin on whom he creates mast of his models) his tailor's canv:8. Arrows point to the nited waist, the wide, semi-long basque, the wide turn-back cuffs and the very large buttons.

to

RIGHT: Jean Desses tives width skirts by a "mu" effect (arrow to the left) or he adds at the back what he calls the "kite" (arrow to the right). The "muff" skirt Is In embroidered grey taffeta.

BELOW LEFT: Little poris Jocket_In belge and light brown made in one piece. The Inside (see arrows) doubles over to form the collar, the exaggerated revers and the cape (which is not visible in the photograph).-

BELOW RIGHT: This shawl cont, in grey,

pale blue and white wool, has been created by Jacques Fath. Arrows point out how it is worn over a black afternoon gown with but- toned collar and raglan sleeves,

Severely Tailored

N, unusual dress was of cham- pagne coloured Jersey, cut on classical lines with a softly droped bodies and only onc shoulder strap. Another,

+

0

Uses (seo and

RIGINAL—and warm-wos a

sweater made of strips of black rabbli stitched on in bands to an elastic'sed material. It gave the effect of belag latticed. It fitted perfectly without any fas tenings.

U

A loose swagger coot had of very adaptable collar which

even at the back, or buttoned to

form a tuxedo front.

SUPERB talloring characterised heavy gold brocade, accentuat could be left in double points

ed the line of the thigh collection. Charles Creed's

though the skirt was large. This Basically differed tile from one. Attention was his last

on huge coat collars, hip again

and pockets, the use of braid

the contrasting facings, and smooth severe fabrics. He takes from the one idea straight Elizabethan perlod-slashing. A

slashed black cocktail dress is

the hips to give fullness round without bulk.

The military look he loves so 60 much showed in the wide re- vers the

the buttoned back facings, the decu cape collars which buttoned down the back, and the broad slanting pockets.

Smooth fine tropical worsteds and sufflags are used for the majority of suits. Other fabrics include face-cloths, thick plied woollens, vieuna, grosgrain and laffeta-backed velvet, Buttons, Buttons

Na fine check suit he calls "Tattersall" the revers button back to the waist, and the only skirt fullness comes from

ar the unpressed box plent at back. A grey bengaline ankle- length cocktail sult, with a wine satin blouse, has black velvet the tapet threaded through

The rever. He cleverly buttons corner of a nylon taffeta basque and slanted effect, give o butions up half a sleeve. This means the basque and sleeves can be worn either buttoned or not giving two completely different effects. (See sketch).

Elaborately draped and fold- n feature skirta ed of this collection. Evening dresses were mostly in luxury

fo

were

Shape of things

to come

PARIS dressmakers have banned photo.

graphs of their 1950 fashions for a month after their dress shows. But these pictures of fashions-in-the-making at -leading-Paris-dress- houses disclose the

shape of things to come.

.

CREED

CREED

BIANCA MOSCA

ROUGH SKETCHES showing trends from the couture shows held in London recently. CHARLES CREED uplits a sleeve and then fastens it with a lapet. He buttons back half a sleevo and the front corners of a basque.

BIANCA MOSCA makes clever use of buttons on a day dress, and provides sull interest by making the shoulders into double cape, and gains skirt fullness by open pleats going into

seam at the hem,

material to

was achieved by the

tight in front being skin fall into huge folds at side and back.

A black afternoon dress had a full moire skirt and fine wool top. Tenmed with a matching moire jocket it became a 'cock- tall suit.

Bianca Mosca

Tteresting

In- THIS collection was an

one. She 135CB materials as skilfully as always, and puts to very good use new

the

no brocades and rever-

Beauty points

The lovellest evening dress was in black and carnation red irridescent, reversible "Duchesse Dogana" salin, with no sleeves, full length at back, with the front of the

skirt

caught up on the hips to show reverse of the satin, making it calf length in front.

Shot-Blik-taffeta--and--black- salin brocado made another two glamorous evening gowns, and the most dramatic of all was in royal blue and carnation tulle, with draped bodice and huge skirt-blue over red, giving Quid effect of colour.

A switch to

a

New-Brn ·

ONDERS FOR A NEW strapless tape-on bra worn here by Model Barbara Lea Wolf have upset Charles S. Langs, Detroit engineer. Langa sald he designed the the new type brassiere at suggestion of his wife. Ho. expected to make no more than a dozen bras but com- plained he is "going nuts" trying to fill orders

30,000.

Rhymus of the times

HEMS

by ALAN MELVILLE

LADIES

you

once more:

for

may breatho

Cense your anxious periurba-

tions.

Your dictator, Monsieur Dior,

Has revealed his new

sever

Lions.

Though the

may grope

crea-

post-war world

Through each crisis, no ono

flinches:

Dior brings a ray of hope-

Hem will stay

Inches.

.

ht

Afteen

ADIES, who as tubes wero

dressed

AL their Master's bidding

hence'll

Change their shape to hja

behest

And appear more like 'n

pencil.

In

One

this grim, unstable_era thing Monsieur Dlor clinches:

Though his prices may be

deorer,

Hems remain at Afteen

inches.

ADIES, though the Christian

creed- Judging by the Press

purtura

re-

Rules that this year you

will need

Tunics like French railway

porters.

Do not grumble if you're

hurt- Where the Dior waistline

pinches: Опе disaster you CAD

skirt-

Hems will

be Afteen inchics. --(London Express Karoles)

solve

long hair problems

LONG hair is coming back.

The present. ragamuffin style, rough-cut and the op- posite of sleek, will have a | brief life.

Shingle and rough-cuts ато sullable for teenagers, Most women only succeed in looking the worse for a tussi; with wind.

Five ways To bo successful, the raga- muffin style needu thick hair with a strong, natural curl in It: flue hair soon becomes straggly and neglected-looking. Letting the hair grow and still retaining the short, groomed look is the main problem now. Smart women are solving with # falso hair-switch.

attractive five suggest these ways of using the switch.

Brush the hair straight across the back of the head and. sweep it round the front over ons car in a roli.

The ragamufin cut, for thick hair with strong natural curl Coil the plait shell-wise round the wing, then carry it down For day-time ‹ ⠀ behind the ear and across, the back of the head to be pinned Coll the switch, unplaited, under the other ear in a coll round the roll into a large 'car-

to match the first. phone and All the contro with

For those with long front hair a cluster of tiny flowers pinned and those who like the forehead securely into place...

flowers,

Golbey

The plalt used on growing hair and cofled like Rät shells over the ears.

across the back of the head and swathe it like a flat shell over ench. eur.

For full faces

kept free, place the plait circu-- for day time are larly and brush the front hair ALL the fringes-side, casual, curled under, and Japanese Instead of straight over to cover the plattere sull up-to-the-minute.

uxed

joln,

They can be worn fluffed-out; - A good style to wear with a

Like a circlet

ringleted, aldo-quiffed like in | straight_Japanese fringe can be

achlaved by brushing the short The sides and back are then schoolboy's, o or flat and scimitar

curved. brushed under the plait and alde curls forward over the cheeks and fixing the switch in

80 that the planed

switch Full faces look better with a double plait scross the back, resembles a circlet, sidefringes, while long faces are keeping it fight and flat to the Iratead of an evening cap, you shortened when the fringe is dressed, to cover the whole head.

circlet with Tekcan dress

forehead. If you like a

look, flowers, pearls, or sequins. *-*- side-part the hair and brush the Those who wear their hair side up to form a wing over with the sides short and brushed the temple

forward should pln the plait

the

Cherry Marshall

London Express Bervios