THE FIRST SINCE THE WAR!
FINER AERTEX SHIRTS
White with long sleeves and a snug-fit collar for wear with a tic or a washable bow.
Similar light weight cloth in gift shade of blue, grey, fawn, green and puce: short sleeves.
Also a rather heavier shirt with short sleeves in white and marl effects.
All are on. show
in the window at
MACKINTOSH'S
Alexandra Building
Des Voeux Road.
YING TAI CO.
of Shanghai
MANUFACTURERS and EXPORTERS
of Embroidered Goods
LINGERIE, PADDED GOWNS, HOUSE-COATS. NIGHT COWNS, MEN'S, ROBES, PYJAMAS, MANDARIN COATS, LOUNGING PYJAMAS, EMBROIDERED BLOUSES, CHINESE ARTS, ETC.
BOLT SILK, SOOCHOW. BROCADES,
TRIBUTE SILKS and
Various Kinds of Pure Silks and Crepes
OPEN ON
Tel. 59640
SUNDAYS
27 Chung King Arcade,
Nathan Road, Kowloon
HONG KONG
Cablo Address: "YINGSILK”
INDIGESTION
".. and its resultant pains are often caused by excess stomach acidity. Phillips' Milk of Magnesio works two ways to rallave til stomach add upsel 1. As an acid stomach alkalizer, Phillips' Milk of „Magnesia is one of the fastest, most affective known to science, 2. As a gentle laxptive, Phillips' con be taken without thought of embarrassing urgency. Caution Use only as directed, in the economy bolile sire, or in handy, easy-to- corry Tablet form.
Liquid or Tablets
PHILLIPS
ATE OF MAGNESER
PHILLIPS'
MILK OF MAGNESIA
OH Boy
THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER – 10,- 1949.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
Beauty-plus
London designers set Autumn trends by Joan Erskine
NORMAN
SHAPE OF SCARFS TO COME "What's going to happen to scarfs 7" is a question buyers are asking as they give thoughts to
LONDON. autumn. Shaped scarfs and ties in cravat effect look like
HARTNELL, the leading trend with more Chairman of the Incor- tone on tone colourings,porated Society of London smaller prints (even smaller Fashion Designers, started than last year) on the early London's "Couturo" week liat. Loose linnging strips by showing us a charming and spaghetti effect liko n collection. "carnival" tie in multicolours are incoming.
***
*
*
* SCATTER FIN INFLUENCE ON BELTS—he multiple pin fashion is extending to belts where ornaments are becoming small and
on the are placed belt in cluster effects inspired by scatter pin.
**
* DON'T FORGET FEATHERS AND FLOWERS-Anxious to continue their' spring success, flower makers have thought up many
items, new
Feather scatter pins and lapel ornaments hold promise and originality. There will be autumn versions of flower scatter pins and velvet is marked for importance. Big
lica news
In leaves. Leaf novelties in autumn colours are handsome a ornaments and beller Looking even
when worked into belts, she caps and other accessories.
או
*
**
BELTS ARE KEYED TO TWEEDS-because the belted sitirt tweed cont and suit and are all big news for autumn. Rich, wum shades are replacing the brights. Deep maroon, taupe, 'many natural tones and golden Iues will have the upper hand. As is always the case in a tweed season, there will also be an
of amplitude
greens and browns.
*
* HUGE ROSE ON A LONG ROPE OF PEARLS may be worn high on the neck by pul- ling the rose through the doubled-up necklace or hangs low on a plungo when the ports are worn as a single strand. An Irma Kigere design.
BLUE BAND MARGARINE
Delicious on Sand-- wiches, nutritive
in cakes and all" cooking—it must bo BLUE. BANDI
REFRESH TACKET BLUE BAND MARGARINE
very
1
stiff
taffetas sible satins a British Arm has nearly all had narrow shoulder recently produced.
Briofly the line is: Straightor, straps, tight-atting bodices, and huge, bouffant skirts. Pockets with shortor altirts, (13"-14" were formed from n fold of from the ground) concealed material rather than by super- fullness, unpadded shoulders,
deep imposition.
necklines Alled with
etc. She Suits were severely tailored flowers, tulle, with alightly longer jackets and doubio capod. shoulders perfectly straight skirts. Bull. sketch), uneven hemlines,
warnleda werd and
used adaptable decolleto, rather thun tweeds, and Original, Warm although there was anuch grey, colours crept back.
flower-like star sequins in dif. brocades and ferent shimmering colours. This strapless dress again was worn with a liny bolero. A satin dress the colour of lend, which gleamed like metal un- der the lights, had pearl: blue, the bodice. and black bend embroidery an
The show finished, In what But he achieved a
seems to be the approved style simple clean line, by clever nowadays, with a bride. She wore a very full skirt made of scaming, tucking, and plentoyers of white nel; a gleaming ing, the shoulders
were silver thread bodice, not sleeves square, and skirts shorter, and net yoke; and her fonting. than we have been accus-
vell was held by bunches of silver flowers each side of her tomed to see lately.
hend. One of the prettlest dresses for a very young bride. Charles Creed
Most of his coats had fur on them somewhere, There were
huge silver fox collars which almost hiding the
stood up
thera from back view; head, were deep cuffs of fox round
the hems of full swinging skirts, a phantom beaver lamb chawi collar could be completely detached; and another elaberats lown coat had two wide silver fox skins from waist to hem.
Two-way Clothes
N
common with most of other has Hartnell designers, designed two-way clothes. One coat. green and black checked over a binck skirt and checked jacket, could be completely re-
to look like a
plain black versed to Vers
wine coat for town wear. A crepe blouse worn with a tweed suit, could be worn with a wine crepe sklet to form an after noon dress,
The colours used were mostly lilacs and mauves, many shades of brown, black, bronze, and new colour called "watered
dress
ne tight black velvet with strapless top shaped like a bow was worn beneath a very full black-spotted net skirt. A net fichu draped the shoulders. Hartnell's, famous mod a 1, wears her Dolores, who still blue-black
smouth coil,
exotic
hair in a wore some very
over
creations
The huge pocket of a house- coat was embroidered all with tiny coral and gold beads; a pale green grosgrain dress had epaulettes and cuts of gold and green hanging bead em- broldery; amber bending de- corated a black dress; a very full Plac nel dress with flounces at the hem sparkled with
on
ABOVE: Christian Dior measures Tania (the mannequin on whom he creates mast of his models) his tailor's canv:8. Arrows point to the nited waist, the wide, semi-long basque, the wide turn-back cuffs and the very large buttons.
to
RIGHT: Jean Desses tives width skirts by a "mu" effect (arrow to the left) or he adds at the back what he calls the "kite" (arrow to the right). The "muff" skirt Is In embroidered grey taffeta.
BELOW LEFT: Little poris Jocket_In belge and light brown made in one piece. The Inside (see arrows) doubles over to form the collar, the exaggerated revers and the cape (which is not visible in the photograph).-
BELOW RIGHT: This shawl cont, in grey,
pale blue and white wool, has been created by Jacques Fath. Arrows point out how it is worn over a black afternoon gown with but- toned collar and raglan sleeves,
Severely Tailored
N, unusual dress was of cham- pagne coloured Jersey, cut on classical lines with a softly droped bodies and only onc shoulder strap. Another,
+
0
Uses (seo and
RIGINAL—and warm-wos a
sweater made of strips of black rabbli stitched on in bands to an elastic'sed material. It gave the effect of belag latticed. It fitted perfectly without any fas tenings.
U
A loose swagger coot had of very adaptable collar which
even at the back, or buttoned to
form a tuxedo front.
SUPERB talloring characterised heavy gold brocade, accentuat could be left in double points
ed the line of the thigh collection. Charles Creed's
though the skirt was large. This Basically differed tile from one. Attention was his last
on huge coat collars, hip again
and pockets, the use of braid
the contrasting facings, and smooth severe fabrics. He takes from the one idea straight Elizabethan perlod-slashing. A
slashed black cocktail dress is
the hips to give fullness round without bulk.
The military look he loves so 60 much showed in the wide re- vers the
the buttoned back facings, the decu cape collars which buttoned down the back, and the broad slanting pockets.
Smooth fine tropical worsteds and sufflags are used for the majority of suits. Other fabrics include face-cloths, thick plied woollens, vieuna, grosgrain and laffeta-backed velvet, Buttons, Buttons
Na fine check suit he calls "Tattersall" the revers button back to the waist, and the only skirt fullness comes from
ar the unpressed box plent at back. A grey bengaline ankle- length cocktail sult, with a wine satin blouse, has black velvet the tapet threaded through
The rever. He cleverly buttons corner of a nylon taffeta basque and slanted effect, give o butions up half a sleeve. This means the basque and sleeves can be worn either buttoned or not giving two completely different effects. (See sketch).
Elaborately draped and fold- n feature skirta ed of this collection. Evening dresses were mostly in luxury
fo
were
Shape of things
to come
PARIS dressmakers have banned photo.
graphs of their 1950 fashions for a month after their dress shows. But these pictures of fashions-in-the-making at -leading-Paris-dress- houses disclose the
shape of things to come.
.
CREED
CREED
BIANCA MOSCA
ROUGH SKETCHES showing trends from the couture shows held in London recently. CHARLES CREED uplits a sleeve and then fastens it with a lapet. He buttons back half a sleevo and the front corners of a basque.
BIANCA MOSCA makes clever use of buttons on a day dress, and provides sull interest by making the shoulders into double cape, and gains skirt fullness by open pleats going into
seam at the hem,
material to
was achieved by the
tight in front being skin fall into huge folds at side and back.
A black afternoon dress had a full moire skirt and fine wool top. Tenmed with a matching moire jocket it became a 'cock- tall suit.
Bianca Mosca
Tteresting
In- THIS collection was an
one. She 135CB materials as skilfully as always, and puts to very good use new
the
no brocades and rever-
Beauty points
The lovellest evening dress was in black and carnation red irridescent, reversible "Duchesse Dogana" salin, with no sleeves, full length at back, with the front of the
skirt
caught up on the hips to show reverse of the satin, making it calf length in front.
Shot-Blik-taffeta--and--black- salin brocado made another two glamorous evening gowns, and the most dramatic of all was in royal blue and carnation tulle, with draped bodice and huge skirt-blue over red, giving Quid effect of colour.
A switch to
a
New-Brn ·
ONDERS FOR A NEW strapless tape-on bra worn here by Model Barbara Lea Wolf have upset Charles S. Langs, Detroit engineer. Langa sald he designed the the new type brassiere at suggestion of his wife. Ho. expected to make no more than a dozen bras but com- plained he is "going nuts" trying to fill orders
30,000.
Rhymus of the times
HEMS
by ALAN MELVILLE
LADIES
you
once more:
for
may breatho
Cense your anxious periurba-
tions.
Your dictator, Monsieur Dior,
Has revealed his new
sever
Lions.
Though the
may grope
crea-
post-war world
Through each crisis, no ono
flinches:
Dior brings a ray of hope-
Hem will stay
Inches.
.
ht
Afteen
ADIES, who as tubes wero
dressed
AL their Master's bidding
hence'll
Change their shape to hja
behest
And appear more like 'n
pencil.
In
One
this grim, unstable_era thing Monsieur Dlor clinches:
Though his prices may be
deorer,
Hems remain at Afteen
inches.
ADIES, though the Christian
creed- Judging by the Press
purtura
re-
Rules that this year you
will need
Tunics like French railway
porters.
Do not grumble if you're
hurt- Where the Dior waistline
pinches: Опе disaster you CAD
skirt-
Hems will
be Afteen inchics. --(London Express Karoles)
solve
long hair problems
LONG hair is coming back.
The present. ragamuffin style, rough-cut and the op- posite of sleek, will have a | brief life.
Shingle and rough-cuts ато sullable for teenagers, Most women only succeed in looking the worse for a tussi; with wind.
Five ways To bo successful, the raga- muffin style needu thick hair with a strong, natural curl in It: flue hair soon becomes straggly and neglected-looking. Letting the hair grow and still retaining the short, groomed look is the main problem now. Smart women are solving with # falso hair-switch.
attractive five suggest these ways of using the switch.
Brush the hair straight across the back of the head and. sweep it round the front over ons car in a roli.
The ragamufin cut, for thick hair with strong natural curl Coil the plait shell-wise round the wing, then carry it down For day-time ‹ ⠀ behind the ear and across, the back of the head to be pinned Coll the switch, unplaited, under the other ear in a coll round the roll into a large 'car-
to match the first. phone and All the contro with
For those with long front hair a cluster of tiny flowers pinned and those who like the forehead securely into place...
flowers,
Golbey
The plalt used on growing hair and cofled like Rät shells over the ears.
across the back of the head and swathe it like a flat shell over ench. eur.
For full faces
kept free, place the plait circu-- for day time are larly and brush the front hair ALL the fringes-side, casual, curled under, and Japanese Instead of straight over to cover the plattere sull up-to-the-minute.
uxed
joln,
They can be worn fluffed-out; - A good style to wear with a
Like a circlet
ringleted, aldo-quiffed like in | straight_Japanese fringe can be
achlaved by brushing the short The sides and back are then schoolboy's, o or flat and scimitar
curved. brushed under the plait and alde curls forward over the cheeks and fixing the switch in
80 that the planed
switch Full faces look better with a double plait scross the back, resembles a circlet, sidefringes, while long faces are keeping it fight and flat to the Iratead of an evening cap, you shortened when the fringe is dressed, to cover the whole head.
circlet with Tekcan dress
forehead. If you like a
look, flowers, pearls, or sequins. *-*- side-part the hair and brush the Those who wear their hair side up to form a wing over with the sides short and brushed the temple
forward should pln the plait
the
Cherry Marshall
London Express Bervios