1936-12-25 — Page 2

Page

HONG KONG DAILY PRESS

FRIDAY, DECEMBER 25, 1936.

Maines Fashion Notes

The

extends to you

SEASON'S GREETINGS

and

Best Wishes

for

A Prosperous New Year.

LATEST DESIGNS

FROM PARIS

When line moves in dress there is a great stirring. Designers may make a pother with rope belta, poppybead buttons, zipper-fasten- ings, dowers under the chin or on one eyebrow, but ultimately and with expedition these get into the common currency. Line is another thing, and even though it also can be copied there is still a great difference between its first sensi- tive appearance and the vain.re- petitions to which it gives rise. It is only necessary to think of the square shoulders of the "Dodo" pertad and, for that matter, of to- day, together with that of Jose- phine or of Trollope, to realise how line characterises a set of yeara. Some people stay in the line of their period just as bandeaux drifted over into high .! fringes and high fringes still clung

New Colour Schemes on in places, contemporaneously

For Furnishing

Satisfy a primitive instinct by Introducing a good colour note into Interior decoration schemes this winter! Colour is really a very simple master, though some peo Die would have us believe it to be highly complex.

Ultra-modern severity, with its off-whites, chromium, ateel and glass, is good up to a point, but the fashionable neutral shades are not self-suficient. They can only serve as a background. Most of us are even bereft of the rich glow of the firelight which ever since cave days has given a colour to

the "lon"

L

SKILFUL ARRANGEMENT There are several ways in which colour effects can be obtained, the most obvious and expensive is by having richly coloured handings and upholstery thrown into relief against pastel walls. The simplest and most versatile method Bes in the skilful combination of flowers, fruit, ceramics, brass, copper, and glass.

LE

In this season's pottery there is a noticeable trend towards warm- er colourings, such as speckled green, golden yellow and pale yellow, dusty pink and pale eau de

NIL.

اء

Try to capture some of the lavish colour effects of the old Aower masters of the Low Countries and make a modern still-life. It is tm- portant to have the ingredients of your flower picture in harmony Spiky yellow flowers harmonise well with, a atone-coloured ginger Jar splashed with jade green. The "Chinese corner" effect is intensi- fied by the proximity of a beaten brass tray and Chinese porcelain plate with rich lacquer reds and

royal blue tones.

A tall chartreuse-coloured, 'jar filled with bronze and golden chrysanthemums ur yellow mimosa looks distinguished arranged with

A

one or two ornaments in black. fruit bowl or basket, also in black,

heaped up with pale green apples, gleaming oranges, yellow grape- fruit and black grapes will "round of the composition.. A strip of rich brocade picking up the same colour theme, placed on the sur- face on which the dower picture is arranged, adds to the colourful effect.

HOW LIGHTING HELPS These flower pictures look de Ughtful placed on the broad top of a modern bookshelf or on an

antique, chest. A niche in the drawing-room or halfway up the staircase can be converted to stage charming flower pieces. Remove a" rectangular, semi-circular or trian- gular piece from the wooden shelf of the niche, have an electric light installed in the cavity, which should then be covered over with the new sand-blasted glass. The flower picture can then be illu- minated from below in a most at tractive way. The concealed Ight ing brings out the colour values to perfection, and is also an ex- cellent medium for displaying modern glass bowls and Agures to the best possible advantage.

with the shingle, · But periods changé quickly. now. SQ that ultimately it should be possible al- most to date a year by the line of the clothes worn in it. Only a

few designers succeed in making marked differences of line. Main- bocher is one of these.

The model shows the backward trend of a number of coats and dresses. This shows more in the shorter coat of Bordeaux red, worn with a black velours skirt. than in the longer garments. Everything here has a backward sweep, balan- ced by the Maria Gay cáp, which is one of those two-roomed affairs with the head in one and the hat almost, as it were, in the head. Redingotes are made in this way and the folds at the back em- phasised by a close fit round the waist. Evening dresses alsó have the backward thrust, sometimes In the long skirt, sometimes in tunics about the length of the cont in the photograph. The skirt is made tight at the knees to em- Phasise the fall-away at the back gathers. When one remembers how tightly backs, have Atted for come time now, this is a great change and one which. If it takes away from the natural lines, is of value when those lines are less than per- fect, and also makes walking seem bghter and more springy.

"

THE BOLERO

respond are rows of small buttons."

MY PREFERENCES

IN COATS

(BY MYRNA LOY)

Coats are necessary item in every girls wardrobe.

!L

Long Coats, short coats Conta that serve a definite purpose, and, those that are simply designed for style, the number depending upon the wardrobe budget of the indiri-, dual

As far as I am concerned, coats divide themselves naturally into two, classes, sports and dress.

I like the sports models best. In my opinion, polò coats are the most` marvelous of any stylę ever to be adopted by women. Large, roomy, comfortable, with wide poc kets and sash belts. The nice part about them lles in the fact that they may be had in any prica-a- range, and I can't unagine a ward- robe without one. They slip on easily over a tailored suit and al- low plenty of room for motion. They may be knocked around and given all manner of abuse, and come through it smart and smiling Dress coats may be either all fur or cloth with-a fur trimming. I prefer the cloth coat with fut trimming to the all-fur variety. Personally I feel that they are twice as smart. In buying such a coat, however, be certain that any fur "appearing thereon is good fur.. It does not necessarily have to be expensive. It is better, however, to buy a realy good plece of inexpän-` "sive fur, rather than an inexpen-

sive piece of good fur.

Greetings

Most cherished among the Gifts bestowed by the passing year

is the memory of the pleasant relations with whom we have been

so privledve to serve, so it is most sincerely that we wish you

A Merry Christmas and A Happy New Year.

From A Dress Critic's

Notebook

Black felt 18 a. Paris and London ravourite Stripped telt, gaugings and pipings are employed in the working of a new Reboux model.

This fits the head anugly at the back, to escape fur collars, but

In the nild-season collection Mainbocher strikes another novelty. The bolero has been used for some time, whether in the form of an incanonical Eton jacket or merely cutlined with seams, braid, what not. For both day and evening dresses Mainbocher has Instituted the closed bolero. This immediate

I have discovered suit coats to ly gives something of the old small waist. It may also recall the Some evening necks reach down be life-savers. They make beauti- Magyar period, especially when the to the high walet in a narrow ful ensembles with stray skirts or shoulders are cut Magyar fashion point, where a couple of large' trocks * A blue tailored sult: and a This mode is becoming to a good flowers, are

worn. Some plain grey tailored suit really mean four rears up in hunt with double flat- ed pieces exactly like a red cock's It allows of many people.

dresses have short sleeves which different combinations. straight line from shoulder to are almost rectangular. This gives

comb. It gives a high and elegant And so, I say, more power to

front movement and is worn far waist; it shows there is a waist by a good deal of character. Simple leaving of abruptly just above the evening frocks with a belt and a close-tting belt. and it deals flower at the V have revers at the father kindly with hips where back V which are so wide that 'they stick out a little beyond the Another new Une vaguely recalls shoulders and make 3. sort of the Empire, but also that slightly background. Detalis here show later period, when a deep frill was attached to the long slim skirt, of plaid chiffons

many buttons anywhere, the use for evening. later to broaden out into Queen sleeves with high shoulder-points, Adelaide fashiona Long slim

a good deal of pleating. Jullet caps

these need it.

dresses are made for evenings with for evenings. gloves made of the walsts just above the natural line. stuff of the particular dress, pom or rising in a slight curve above pans used for buttons, much flow- this line. They sometimes have ered satin, bird-talls to otherwise round necks attached to straps. short coats. which make them fairly low. The other version of this dress rises to

the base of the throat and just covers the tips of the shoulders giving a rather square-cut line across the chest. There may be u fil round the neck, while from the knees there is a flounce with a heading that gives it a springy look. This knee-line includes some Jane Austen modes. With a long redungote, cut with huge revers and a close fit. goes a long dress with a slight waist, big-headed fril round the knees, and close-fitting sleeves. Evening dresses carry on this line, which is effected partly: by means of a wide sash, the up- per edge of which gives the high waist, and the lower edge the more Stitched black silk is used to or less normal waist. When flow- create a picturesque bat worn by era adorn the shoulder straps and beautiful Anita Colby. Unusual there le a tall to the long, plain treatment of the shallow crown is akire more than a suggestion of featured, with a square 'top rising period comes into being,,. into slight peaks at each side, The wide brim dipe becomingly over the right eye. The hat is banded in a braid of the rolled silk. Former ly one of the nation's foremost

Main lines have to have sub- kidiary lines, and the long plain- ness of a good many dresses is varled by sweeping or retrenching neck lines High-necked evening

advertising" models, Miss Colby dresses have drapery from one

has appeared in many recent RKO Radio pictures.

shoulder, and along the line of the other and across the hips to cor-

coats. A smart coat, and any wo back on the head, slightly tilted to man looks well-dressed.

the side.

Most original and effective is a day-frock of pale blue wool by London designer. Each seam 1s with strands of the actual weave, so that It appears like leather-work trimming.

oversewn

A beautiful gown in yellow cloque for evening has a corsage and sash gorgeously embroidered with gold sequins

Another frock is draped in two coloured satins of pale mauve and a darker cyclamen.

The Cameo Beauty Salon.

Season's

Greetings

from.

RIVELLE

Gloucester, Arcade.

-

PARIS FASHIONS

Paris,

Regimentation has completely gone from evening dress. A net- tled lowness, length, width, coiffure *no longer exist, and women are ant beyond the pale who do not form as men conform in the mat ter of their "dress" clothes. The Ardanse model is a good example of freedom in evening dress. With the black lace skirt and light top,

with the little lace and chifor coat, it has all the suggestion of evening without having any fea ture which is not at one time or other to be seen in day dresses. These have blouses, low necks, no sleeves, buckles. So does the even ing frock, though with a difference. The difference les chiedy, in the putting together of the various

features and in the material used. It is true that linen or cotton may be used for evening frocks, but lace is still not worn for playing golf, unless it be of a concise and wooliv kind and used for sweaters. Evening dresses take a great many day style's and treat them dif- ferently. A swagger coat may still be made of tweed for the evening, but it lined with velvet. Boleros are used, but they serve as con- trasts or they are closed up to make a bodice. Blouses have been taken from the suit and blouse, but they are linked up with the 'evening skirt, as in the model. The loose and hanging back of the the Awagger coat appears in an evening frock by Mainbocher, but It is made of gold and apricot lame, and it helps to give a tunic-like effect. Evening dress may be any- thing, in short, provided that it looks different from day even while employing the same devices.

dreas,

HALTER NECKS'

While necks are high and low, hightronted and low-backed, high altogether or with the least little Vat the back, there is a general tendency towards the lower neck, and there are many halter necks. These are largely becoming be- cause they involve a high bib,

sleeves well below the shoulder.. This gives the broad-shouldered effect which is increasingly 'popu- lar.

Bs

One of the most becoming lines is seen at the Alix collection, which contains beautiful, draperies well. This is moderately fitting bodice with a low neck hung on by ordinary straps. The dress be- sins to flare just after the tops

br the hips have been modelled, and falls to three or our wide, handsome folds. The back of the dress spreads out fanwise in folds.. The spread of the dress gives that.. balance of line which makes for

the-' elegance and lightness in Agure. This, designer is particu- larly successful with the flares of her dresses. She plays several tunes on them.. Sometimes they: are more like short, wide trains, sometimes the

comes- fullness

mostly in rent and has a gracious appearance. In one dress: a: straight Tudor, bodice goes with a plain but beautifully cut full skirt. swelling out slowly into folds from the waist. The bodice...

also a hus shoulder-straps and halter twisted round, the neck like a figure sights.

severt

From classic dresses with full- ness or draperies airäbat anywhere' it is a pleasant change to turn to› the stifly fussy diese such a58. white evening frock by Chanel with strap shoulders, a top belted: and fiting to below the hips, and then seven fussy little frills, the effect being that of a cheus queen. Chanel has a good many flounced frocks, some Spanish in cut. Some Medici collar, pointed have epualettes and frills from the waist to the ground. The essence. of these is a touch of stirness lest they look untidy, j

Beautifully coloured and fas- hioned flowers can often renovate not-too-new ensembles for even ing where more ordinary stereoty- ved jewels are apt to be familiar and therefore suggest monotony. Any gay hote, provided it is in

Halters and straps lend them- good taste, should have a special

selves also to many diversionIJ. place in the Christmas festivities.

There is the wide scarf, which i Red is always the recognised col-

attached to the neckband and our leader, for this season, and is

flows down behind like a cloak or likely to continue, though the

train. Shoulder-straps wom with deeper crimson of velvet will re-

balters may have epauletter at- place the vivid pillar-box scarlet.

tached to them. Many straps," For the moment, the red necktie-

whether on the shoulder or round of great charm-la' very popular, in, which is held up by the halter the neck, have big nowers sewn to Paris for tucking in the coats of Anyone who thinks of apron bibs them. Instead of straps the halter black cloth or

lamb,

will remember how singularly may be a steadily narrowing bib Black Inserted lace stockings are elegant these are. Bruyere some up to the neck with a little strap to be noticed occasionally, They times takes the bib up to the found the back. This can be on- are smart with a white chiffon throat, with a heart-shaped neck shed with a flower. Large flowers dress trimmed with black ciré in it under the chin. This de- are worn at the neck, at the roses. We may, possibly see a few eigner also crosses over pieces of Breast, on the hips. Mutis are examples of the fragile black blb or carries it up to one shoulder made of flowers to go with even- hoalery once more, that is, of with a broad strap for the other ing rocks. Chanel has an elegant shoulder. The halter Is sometimes godel fitting closely so that the course, for special evening wear.

turned into a harness with a criss material makes horizontal folds al?: Airey life-fronted embroidered

cross of straps which leave the down the hips and bodice and silver stocking completing silver shoulders, bare. The straight-spreads when it is about to reach sandals - locks well with a silver across low neck may be suspended the floor. One of the strape- 1* Jamie gown

by a halter and have small puffed made of large dowers.