1936-08-29 — Page 11

HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, SATURDAY, AUGUST 29, 1936.

Are Menus Meaningless?

EPICUREAN ESPERANTO

WHAT CHEFS SAY IS SENSE

Australia And Japanese Trade

The news from Japan that Man- chukuo has decided to Join with that country' in limiting importa of Australia's principal products suggests that Japan is prepared to engage to the full in a taria war with the Commonwealth. It will be recalled that some time ago Australia Introduced new tarin measures on Imported Japanese. goods, a step which was greatly re- sented by Japan, and the present decision of Manchukuo. presum- ably at the instigation of Japan. is obviously almed in retallation. The Commonwealth policy so far as it affects trade with Japan has not met with unanimous approval throughout Australia... This was made.clear some weeks ago by Sir Hal Colebatch, Agent-General for Western Australia. When speak- ing in London he emphasised the wide gulf that exists between Com- monwealth tariff policy and West Australian interests. especially where the question of trade with Japan is concerned.

A WAY THEY HAVE

IN THE NAVY ·

British warships, busy rescuing Britons from Spain, are not 100 busy to play.

11

News reached London on August 10 about a week-end visit by Bri- tish destroyers to Bilbao, which is in anti-Red hands.

The ships sent a football team ashore and challenged the local Basque club to a match.

The Mayor of Bilbao looked on. Unfortunately the officer sending the report to London omitted to say what the result was.

cuts onions, carrots, parsley root, celery, and puts it in a pan with juices from cooked meat. If meat Is being roasted, the mirepoix is placed in the pan with the meat. gives up its flavour to the juice, and is strained out before gravy is served.

the

Most culinary measurements 'are fairly exact, and are given in the system of the country, pints, liters etc. But there is one measurement that is international. It is a "soupeon." Et is the French word for "suspicion."

JUST IMAGINE THE GARLIO "Add a soupcon of garlic." says the chef, his thumb and index fin- ger touching by way of indicating the very slight amount to be used. The word is perfectly expressive. Garlic must never be detected in food, it should merely be suspect- ed. I is there. or isn't it? That is culinary ancestry.

11

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BABLEFBWEXONIS"

JUST A SOUPCON OF GARLIC MAIS QUI''

B

strange

transliterations, chenstein, who liked it, according perts are given to going from in the effort of one nation to to Mr. Fries. country" to country" In pursuit of approximate the pronunciation to LYONNAISE MEANS WITH their vocation. If there were not ❘ another. Alfred Fries, president

ONIONS some universal language of the of the Chicago branch of the In- One of the stumbling-blocks of occupation it would be difficult į ternational Cooks Association and the menn cards are those fancy Indeed for a cnet to tye orders to a writer on the culinary art. re- words, Jardinière, meunière, bour- his staff,

ports having recognized Irish stew geolse, lyonnaise; jullenne. Simple, This is

| asks him to braise it, the assistant

it

Who is there so brave and, nationalities, and these food ex- undergo learned that he has not been daunted by a formal menu 'card? naks Dorothea Kahn in the "Christian Science Monitor." " A saimis of this, a ragout of that, and something else a la Jardinière. Even if plain English is used to describe the main vegetable and, It appears as good English potato Instead of pomme de terre, there is still the risk that it may be fol- lowed by one of those troubling knows" he means 4 particular adjectives. such as jullenne or lyonnaise. "Ah me!

Why all this tatricacy, one won- ders. The answer is plain. The technical language of the chets has aimply found its way into the dining room, where it appears strange and difficult to the lay-i man. But in the kitchen it is everyday speech, The chef uses It not to give airs and graces to his concoctions.

'menu as the makers are often accused of doing,

just where kitchenese on a French menu card in a pro- quite simple, to the technically comes to the rescue, When a chef i vincial city when he found trained. Jardinière means in the hands a helper a plece of beef and written "Artsh stu."

garden style, indicating the use of ä 'variety of garden vegetables.| Meuntereineans in the style of the miller's wife. (la" meuniere in French). She is supposed to have

but simply to convey to his helpers just what he wants to say.

KNOWS NO PARTICULAR COUNTRY

STEW IS JUST STEW, BUT— Getting back to technicalities, a cooking process which the Ameri-stew in any food boiled slowly in a can Webster, the French Larquae closed vessel. Now that and other dictionary makers of different nationalities agree is to comfortingly simple. but just wait, used flour with a free hand and

stews-and stews, each ja' moment. There are stews and her name is given to foods rolled

cook in a tightly covered pan over a slow fire...

+

"MAKING THE MEAT JUMP

middle western. Kansas. knows that the technique required is to

sounds

3

with

in flour, before cooking. Bour- technical name of its own...-

geotse means in brown Ragout is one. It comes from Lyonnaise Impiles

gravy. the use of

the French ragouter, meaning to onions, for Lyon, France, is a cen- restore the appetite, and is sup- ter of onion culture. Julienne posed to be spicy. Sulmis ls an- means cut in small strips,

Or if the chef requests that the meat be sautéed the helper, whether he comes from east or west of the Rhine, or even plän other variety. It is a stew of duck, Some of the fine points in the pheasant or game bird, already cooking process are designated by begins. Then there is goulash, the origin. internationally used. partly roasted before the stewing odd words, usually of French

Hungarian version of the beef BUTTER AND FLOUR MAKE stew, highly seasoned; pilau, a

A. BOUX Turkish interpretation; oyster and "Make me a roux," says the chef, clam stew, a purely American and the helper hastens to stir to- variation; and take a long breath | gether butter and flour over a slow before attempting this one. PII-fire, making a pastelike, mixture chensteiner stew. The last is as which is the basis of a white sauce, German as its name, composed of or thickening for a gravy, Rour three kinds of meat, veal, pork, comes from a French word mean-

cook the meat quickly in a little bot fat while it is being frequently turned over. Sauter, of course, is French for Jump, the skilled cook scorns to use a spoon to stir the meat in this process, but makes it “jump" by a quick flip of the

It is an international language, this culinary parlance. It has to bé. Chefs are not all French by any means, contrary to the pan. American stage characterization. Irish stew, strange as it sectis, of them. Many are German, and is a distinctly technical term, and there are Czechoslovak and Dutch an international one. No, an ex- and mutton, with cabbage, leeks, ing russet coloured.

and Swiss chefs and so on. More- pression does not. have to be onion, and potato, It was named "Prepare a mirepoix." This is a -over, their helpers are of many French to qualify. but it may in honour of the barons of P- clear order to a trained cook. He

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