1935-09-13 — Page 3

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HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 1935.

Autumn

STYLE SHEL

Autumn And Winter Collections

$100

Molyneux has shown his 'aut-" umn and winter collection His morning dress and jacket ensem- bles are made with slim skirts, and wide coats of almost three-quar- ter length. In detalls they differ. The main lines are the same as these he made in the spring. A "little woollen dress is aced in front, on the hips, up the bodice to the throat Formerly the bodice was buttoned. He is also using machine-pleated materiais. A skirt is pleated and fitted to a shallow hip yoke or to a low-set waist band. A plain bodice may have full pleated sleeves. All sleeves are long, many are full or wide. Jackets and coats have full sleeves., capes are drawn to width about the arms, some slecves have three flounces. The width given to sleeves gives emphasis to the silmness of the hip line. Brown, olive-green, black, are morning colours.

Afternoon dresses are very slim in the skirt and long. Bright col- oured gloves go with dark dresses. The waist line is not necessarily marked by a belt, but when it is the line is low and the belt out of the ordinary: 'leather cut to queer patterns, chamols rolled.. into small cartridges The sim- plicity of the dresses is challenged by highly decorative hats. Small toques with deep crowns have a bunch of flowers or a tuft of fea- thers set high in front. For the the evening there are ceintures of flowers, feathers. ribbon, all as piring to height in front.

Dresses for the evening have elther very full, long skirts, or they are. very tight, with pucker- ed seams and long, slim trains. A velvet bodice is laced down the front, Italian fashion, another is cut to a pointed waist line and a square neck. With every dress goes a velvet or cloky crepe wrap. The sweep and colour in these vel- vet wraps variety.

give richness and

Creed, the tailor, is showing a collection of first-class dresses, coats, and coat and skirt "ensem- bles. His English tweede are ex ceptionally well chosen and be has combined with English tailor- ed trimness French lightness of touch; something feminine with- out being fussy. There are sum skirts with a bleat or a siit at the hem, blouses high to the throst with folded scarves to match, and neat, fitting jackets, short and half to two-thirds in length The skirts have hems, not binding, at the edge The jackets ari braided in front, military style. There ds one ensemble named appropriate. ly "Guards," in black, with wide silk braid loops down the front of the coat, and at the waist a wide red ribbon sash. Another is in.

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grey and black stripes, cut on tra- ditional tailored lines to be worn " with a white blouse. Little poc- kes trim skirts and jackets. On

a black skirt and jacket the flaps are lined with colour, and a belt matches.

coats in warm

Heavy woollen colours, such as rust-red, bottle- green, are trimmed with high fur collars. These coats fold over in double-breasted fashion and close comfortably at the waist. Short swagger coats in checks and tar- tans are put with plain dresses, "skirts, and blouses. Muft bags are slung about the neck. They are in suede and in colour match the ensemble. The hats are by Rose Valoia

i

Jodelle has made a gorgeous collection strongly influenced by the Italian exhibition of old mas-

ters.

She uses materials which

are rich in. substance and in col- our. Opening with á series of Lailored tweeds which have high. velvet and fur collars tied to sharp, pointed, ends at, the side and, at the waist of the long coats. a wide belt set to a high line, she passes on to afternoon and even- ing dresses which are magnifi- vent; Titian-red velvets, Botticelli yellows and blues Paul Ver- onese greens, in velvet and satin. Long slim skirts in velvet have draped fronts and trailing backs, the bodice being draped to leave one bare shoulder. Wide, lorig wraps of velvet for the evening are rich in colour: sapphire-blue, green, red.

TWO-COLOUR FASHIONS

1.

Creed has maintained the fas- hion of two colours in an ensem- ble. At instance of this is a dull blue dress worn with a brown coat. When the ensemble is that of a skirt and blouse, the blouse may be in striped velvet, or ins a soft woollen material like French flannel:

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The blouses in this collection are tucked under the waist belt.. A tartan tweed jacket in brown - and white or black and white may have the skirt/in plain brown or plain white, or, whatever may be the plain colours of the tartan,

AUTUMN MATERIALS

Autumn materials · BIO being shown in London, and some Very new methods of treating familiar fabrics so that they can be used in a variety of ways are attracting attention.

Velvet, silk and wool, now come into the sports category. Tweeds interest.

are of immediate

Tweed and the pllable tweed- ·. angora combine pleasing ali- ances in colour and textures for town and travel.

Blues and greys with a dash

ΟΙ purple are woven with an ultra-soft hairy surface that strikes a new note. There is now,,

a velvet for scarf and berêt, woven in similar shadings.

A

cream and brown tweed worn with a beige wool waist- coat, that had a neat dark brown and white plain velvet collar, looked well. The suit itself was very simple. There was a hea. vier top-coat in ribbed diagonal Angora that had a rolling scarf-· collar of the same plaid. velvet.

This was lined with a wool cash-

mere, again in the same design as the plaid.

CONCESSION TO THE

MALE!

Ask a woman why she takes trouble with her dress and she'll say "For my own satisfaction, of course". But not many of us are, in the eighteenth century phrase, wholly indifferent"" to male opinion. That's why Vogue, in its new number, has frankly chosen an armful of "clothes a man would ke." He likes gla- mour in the evening, he likes

trim you

and tweedy in the country, ie 1kes clothes young and Jaunty, and he likes a spot of nonsense. He likes good gloves, and elegant accessories. Vogue shows you two pages of clothes with these characteristics -and how ravishing they are!-- and tells you where to get them and how much they cost.,.

"MAGPIE SIMPLICITY

A black dress is marked with white to form a wide check At the waist is a black leather belt and at the neck a little white linen Bow, With It goes a double- breasted black coat lined with the dress material and with revers of the same.

A navy blue woollen dress 15. buttoned from neck to waist with black horn buttons; and has a black leather belt. Two square patch packets are placed just be low the waist-line. A choker ›neck-line has a narrow turn-over collar of white, shiny linen. The cuffa match the collar,

SENSE IN SCENTS

As you make your powder fit your party, so you must do with scents Vogue, in the lively new Beauty Number, says you must have one for mornings in town, one for week-ends in the coun- try, one for that little quiet dini- Her.

and one, grand and gla- mourous, for the high and festive occasion. That's why you must have one of the charming, little perfume" "bar"-travelling boxes containing a range of scents.

A great many shot and two-tone silks and velvets are in the new collection. There is a faconne taffeta in two-tong shot exéctă and a two-tone chene taffeta, botn of which are new this year.. A rich, faconne poult de sola for evening gowns is specially good a lovely shade of parchment and in dove grey.A velvet in Roman stripings made with one of the by-products of artificial Buk: similar to cellophane fa a novelty that la not welcomed by dress amakers as it has to be handsewn.

"Guarda, Chesbows & black broadcloth jacket and skirt, the former being trimmed with wide black silk braid in loops down the

So much for the perfection of utter simplicy Then Creed shows front, and round the waist runs

The classic tallormade coat, skirt, and blouse is without a flaw in th's eglection.There is one in grey and black stripes, with which is worn a white satin blouse cut high to a cravat at the throat.

Velvet and velveteen are used. for morning tallormades Broad cloth also is used, especially fors slim black skirts, dresses,

In

that he can also be decorative. He puts long, tightly-fitting, jac- kets of burnt orange velvet with

ensembled

called

a bright red petersham acart with

Senosiaan vas long,

gance

all the suave #:clo- military tunic worn by

FASHION NOTES

Rich Silks For Autumn

The new IKE are richer and heavier than those of last year and there is an abundance or ornate lames on satin, poult, taf- feta, more and other rich silk backgrounds. So far everything points to a metal season and a greater élaboration my dress bas- ed on designs of many periods from the Byzantine to the oddit- les of pre-War days. There are many charming anchronisms in both dress and material.

Among the new lames is one with the effect of a nailstorm in gold, on poult, de sole; it is for evening dresses and is in both pas- tel and dark shades. A new seel, grey is in the range of colours and also biscuit, cyprus green, and pretty shades of blue and rose. A similar materia, mostly in cameo colours has an inter- woven check in silver and gold and is suitable for coatees. A great number of taffeta silks have gold allied with coloured designs, some of which are very large and others are like scattered, lozenges. On a black taffeta ground there is a very handsome silk with a Cozenge medaldon in gold allied with purple. Another black taf- feta has ribbon stripes in metal und velvet, and nere are james packed in tafela in shell-pink and parma-violet, both of which are well sponsored among the season's colourings:

Among the satin-backed lames

as a gorgeous fabile-with-a-carna-

Mayo's

MELLAN MUSKOKAN

HONG KONG

New

HOPPE

Shipment.

of

Winter Hats

Smart Autumn Dresses

Hats made to order: from Finest Fur Felts

Showing on Monday Smart Evening Gowns Suits, Dresses

and

Light Weight Coats

RIVELLE

6, Gloncester Arcade.

Tel. 33186.

Your choice of footwear tells observant eyes more about you than any of your clothes

Black kid, ribbon. bow, vamp finely tucked. Best quality,

Make a point of seeing Gordon's new collection.

Priced from

$12.50 Pair.

Gordon's Ltd.

HONG KONG'S LADIES SHOE SPECIALISTS.

on design in metal; it is in white THE TUBE SKIRT

und goa, jastel blue and gold, gold on kold,, while and silver, pink and suver, and blue and sil- ver.

Among wie ighter James is

ay Pas.ey design woven with metal on a crepe de Chine ground; it is delightful with a lavender-blue predominating and is also, good in autumnal: colours. Another in an all-over delicate teat design in gold, is on a geor- gette ground, and is in soft past- tel colours. An attractive novelty also among the lighter, sliks is a georgette with a tiny sequin star superimposed, but so firmly that it cannot be removed; this is in both light and dark colours and is good in navy, royal, sheil-' pink and fvory...

·REVERSIBLE MATERIALS

Reversible materials are inter- esting. There is a yarn-ayed du- chesse satin with a gold lame spot in black-and gold and royal. blue and gold which is suitable for evening coats and coatees. |AD- other good reversible satin but without metal is called "Tol c'est Mci" and has moire in con- trasting colour as its reverse; illy green salin has a soft bur- gundy-beige maire reverse; a rose satin has an apricot motre re- verse, and there is a number of g.od contrasts and also some with The reverse in the same shade as the satin There are some new chene lame taffetas with the chene design printed on the metal: these are in floral and, striped designs and are attractive novelties, · A lovely, material on shot, metal grounds has a white satin tulip design; this is notably good on silver and white, silver and blue, and rose and sliver, giv- Ing an iridescent illusion. The moires are effective with or with- out metal among them there is a very large floral chens pattern en moire and also a plaid moire in rich colours with curious faint overcheck that strike new-notes among the patterned siks. An- other novelty in moire has the

Is Back Again

***..

SEX DRESS RULES FOR WOMEN

OK WRIT Avoid Conspicuous Clothes Is Most Important

14

The tube skirt is back again.

85% rules for "snappy dressing" Women will have to practise a

have been drawx ́úp "by ky dress new and restrained method of

designer who creates clothes for walking successfully to wear the

many famous film stars (reports evening dresses which Molyneux

Reuter from Hollywood), has made for the autumnn, A.

Here they are, as adapted to Tube evening gowns are hard-uit the pocket of the average ly instep length. Many have narrow horizontal folds from hip almost to hem, accentuating the tube silhouette; others are plain. These short evening frocks seem as strange to eyes ac- customed to long, trailing skirte as their rather" scanty. prodor- tions.

There are

alternatives

models with gored skirts touch- ing the ground. Except for very formal occasions, no Molyneux evening dress has a train

BORGIA RED What the evening dresses, have lost in lengun they have gained in richness of material.

Taffetas Velvet, plain or shor in rich glowing colours, cloque taffetas modern brocades, supple satins are materials used:

Some of the velvets have been inspired in colour and weave by the Italian Renaissance.

8.3

A lovely colour is known Borgia red Blues shade from turquoise to ho.tensia and deep. sapphire.

With the evening dresses go full-length circular capes of velvet, sometimes in a deeper shade than the dress, sometimes in a contrasting colour.

Bome capes are plain in others. the whole surface is rucked

short circular capes are made from cloque. Capes, in short have for the moment taken the

place of evening coast.

Coloured gloves go with "gyen."

gloves were shown with an even- ing gowns. Apricot coloured

effect of oil on water in the designing dress of that shade, burg- and has a poult de sole back. Itundy red gloves with a gown of

is in black, navy, dark brown, and ivory and is among the more exo- →tic' silka.

Taking A CounÉ, Idleness does Louis When Max Bac

NatUITA

burgundy red and green cloque and yellow gloves; red gloves and pink gloves to be worn with plain black gowns.”

CAPE TOUCHES GROUND

THE

wers, feathers

woman;

1-Build scheme wardrobe.

UD

1

ane-colour.".

2 Have few clothes; good rather than cheap.

}

* 3-Study your defects and buy. clothes which: hide them and stress good points,

4-See that accessories--gloves, bags, and shoes-blend or match in colour

B

TRANELLING LIGHT

5-Keep to similar styles an that one season's clothes merge with the next.

Above all avoid conspicuous clothes.

Describing the outat he de- signed for a flm star's last trip to New York, he said:

"She wanted to travel light, so we made her a blue metallic evening gown, a white chiffon dress, a blue and white print dress, a light blue dress, and a

dark blue coat.

The accessories for such an putat, he added, could be inter- changed, and one coat and hat would go well with any the dresses.

paradise rising up from the. centre, or of three large colour- ext velvet roses arranged to stand up from the head, or a nice cluster of ostrich feathers fixed. to a narrow band, you', have some idea of the new idea, }

~~The roses and feathers are worn just above the left eye," the parad and bow straight across the top of the head.

A cape of red: cog feathers with a headdress to match, rich evening cape touches the futa used-as-trimmi

and ja made entirely of foxes "worked,in rays from the shoulder ang “boot-3 fast

enings on both day and wrening trees.. other things wwhich

Labour

collection