1935-05-31 — Page 3

@

Page

15

PARIS FASHIONS

The Jubilee Reception

At The Embassy

Amony, the arcssés worn at the

the reception given at

British Embassy in ruris to celecrate the King's Silver Jubuce was one in tea-rose pink sutin figured with a flower design in grey-black. It was gently moulded to the figure and slim in the skirt; a long train relt loose from one shoulder which could be caught up over the arm. A very simple white crepe dress was worn with a bunch of deep damask red · roses. Another: in grey satin, was becoming to lady with grey hair. A short sil- ver 'grey and blue taffetas dress had a full skirt and tight bodice with a bertha and pink flowers. Black net and lace dresses were worn with diamond ornaments. There were coltures of flat curis, loose waving, and rippling locks shaped becomingly to the head.

11

Jean Patou.fs showing a half- season collection of great disting tion. There is feminimty of style 1.selplined by good tailoring. The morning and afternoon clo- thes are all simple in line; coats and skirts with "blouses... and dresses with capes or boleros. A dove-grey crepe de Chine" dress has a cape of the same material carried straight across the shoul- ders in front and draped to fas ten von one side and to fall-in- a long point behind. This is Pa- Lou's new cape, of which there are many expressions, differing slightly in the way they are drap- ed. The skirta are straight and reasonably short, some are pleat- ed others have a long, tunic to make a double skirt. Short slee- ves draped to fall below the al- bow are usual Fockets trim both" jackels and skirts and, again, the trimming may be fine gauging or plisse. The fullness in a tailor- ed skirt is let into the back; deep inverted pleats which fall, open' Intö fan formation as they near the heat.

+

In black, there are many en- sembles. ur skirt. Jacket, and blouse. skirt and blouse with a dress with a cupe. cape, or There is a dress in black organza" with a skirt folded to the back, a top with full transparent glee- ves, a trim litte jacket, and one bright touch of colour--a red ca- mella. The red camellia is the

· flower that Patou uses most.

In

the evening. black georgette is the fashion for long. slim, grace- ful dresses. not very low cut at

the back of the bodice and as dis-

creetly so in front. Red cami

llas are again used to give colour.

HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, MAY 31, 1935.

SUMMER Style

2000

LATEST SUMMER

COLOURS

Spinach-Green: Cinnamon

With Pink

22

Spinach is a new colour, and a change from the early tender greens of spring. This is a lovely shade especially in certain fab- rics worn for blouses and hats,.lt has an unusual air, and is good as a reiler to black. I have just trim-black tailored suit. seen a The hip-length coat buttoned almost to the threat, with small military collar of black velvet. Peeping ou in front was blouse and folded scart of spinach-green taffeta worn with tiny tilted picture hat of fabric straw, in the same colour, en- veloped in shaded green estrich

of" feathers. An umbrella was the greer, but the other acess"-" ries were all-black.

14

ed

'Clothes, this season are out of the ordinary, Well-dressed wo- men now predominate at any big social gathering. I think. It is largely mitinery that has alter-

the whole standard.

The a thing dressy hat of to-day is of charm and beauty and great help to good appearance. In Edwardian days there were many elegant exponents of fea- thers and flowers, but, even at their best, these were apt to suggest a note of age and ar- rogance that to-day would be voted aggressive and bad style. The great curning of the modern artist in dresses and hats is to convey that baffling touch of

A charming" dress is in black net; ⠀ simplicity to the most complicat-

with pink satin,under the net outlining the decollete. A full cape of black net has a wreath of pink flowers running round the shoulders. A dress of navy-blue satin is worn under a long cloak of navy-blue with a satin shoul- - der yoke,

Worth has a youthful and cheerful collection of wearable clothes. He is making capes of different lengths, short jackets, lose fitting, and easy fitting. His long 'capes are well cut and hung, In thin materials he makes capes which are finely plisse, A slim black dress has a long black cape over which falls a wide white, re- vers towards the left shoulder fastened by a big black-button. Spotted materials are used a good deal in this collection. Broad, bright belts, trim. colourless dresses, as whến a vivid red belt" is put on a 'dress of grey cotton. Worth frequently unites three colours in: one ensemble. A light green dress has a bright red belt and a white bolero of Catton pique.

ed and intricate creation.

REVIVAL OF BROWN

Among popular .colours, browna all, grades have revival of success for the mid-season. It is "essentially an autumn favourite. but under new pulses is having a special success. Like spinach- green, brown is delightful in taffeta and in grêpe Dark brown silk is good for the taller- ed summer sult. An ultra-plain #ik suit in a fairly dark shade, relieved with white or colour, is always pleasing on sunless sum-

mer days.

Another alliance in tones pecu- lar to the Empire age is a dark brown crepe salt worn with a striped cinnamon, cream and pink taffeta blouse and a cin- namon and pink shaded feather ed hat. Pale tomato and a dark claret look well allied with love in-the-mist blue, but such som binations can only be successful in rich, soft and rather subdued Ents of their special shades, and In beautiful fabrics

The variety in aryles enables all sorts of materials to achieve success, but there is a marked The change in fabric surfaces.

be strictest tallcred tweeds, can wover, so subtly that though they appear to be severe, in reality the wool-weave is of the softest, The modern way is to tailor the new crepe, satin, and wool-silk combinations as easily as serge." * TAILORED SILK 'SUITS

Crépes and shantungs are generally tailored or used for semi-tailored ensembles. A sim- ple dress is completed either with a three-quarter swagger seamed coat or a neat fitting short one. White shangtung is good for the classic coat and skirt worn with a coloured striped pink blouse and khady straw ciré hat of pink, with ribbon bows of the stripe. These suits are good for home, travel, town or country as occa- ston

the demands,

principal points being not to mix accesso- ries or mistaken shades,

Oatmeal is another useful and cool summer colour. In hopsack and taffeta, It tailors well and La especially good with beige or white accessories. Now that

bags, gloves and shoes are of such significance, it is essential to choose them carefully, and it possible with view to using them with several sults. The re- viving of the brownbeige range, is all to the good, for, these shades are easily matched.

now

THE DUCHESS

OF KENT

Sets Another Fashion

In a far-off town of Northern China native Women, weavers tolled laboriously to complete work of art. little knowing that it would grace Royal Jubilee pro- cession.

For it was in this way, that the superb picture hat, worn by the Duchess of Kent during the Jubilee drive, had its beginning;

It was the genius of a Parisian designer which evolved the shape and supplied the final inspiration of the sweeping ostrich feathers which excircle the brim.

SO BECOMING

Tilted at a piquant angle and utterly dissimilar to the small hats the beautiful Duchess' po-" pularised a few months ago this creation has proved the breath- taking subject of conversation among most women ever since Monday.

Its admirers can accept it on the authority of Mr. Victor Webb. of Walter Webb and Baker, "the well-known British hat manufac- turers, that the large picture nat will be worn within the next few weeks-probably days-by every woman who cherishes a reputa ‚tion for ultra-smart chic.

"My designers and I" said Mr. Webb "watching the procession, at once realised that the Duchess Was wearing the Hat of the Immediate Future. We breathed sign of relief that she had choseri a large hat.

2.

"

"Few people will disagree that a picture hat is becoming to most types of faces, and makes Its wearer look younger.

"Immediately we got back to the studio we had a conference, and finally came to agreement As to the exact shade of this hat and its dimensions."

"We were, of course, aided by newspaper photographs."

Hundreds of workers are now feverishly turning out the weaves.

new "Marira" hat,

All sorts of tones are woven into the striped muslins, Real Indian muslins are inter- septed with gold and silver-as well as many coloured Such aliances require careful handling.

these or

are apt to resemble the best curtain! They will appear at Ascot, mixed with quilted' slik" and exotic trim ming Personally, I think they are prettier for giria evening- dress with added touches of sliver or gold.

Picturesque bats which will reach the summit of their glory at As- cot seem better, in sympathy with the plainer mousselines-de-sole in, pale colours or bright organdi with contrasting sashes. Taffeta in-pale-Rommey blue and pastel pink worn with legborn colour- ed hats and laquered crêpe hapes, sparingly decorated with. flowers and feathers, will recall the splendour of earlier Ascot days, but treated in the new simple style.

The hat is made from Shan- tung Baku material, of pale beigt colour, woven as fine as very fine- linen.

It is trimmed with uncurled ostrich feathers. ofa slightly darker beige

"This material, it was ex- plained, is woven by native wo men in the Northern Chinese town of Cheloo. It is a laborious task," and it occupies one wo- man fourteen days to COCA- plete the original hat, which is later to be shapes in accor dance with the ideas of the Bigner. C

Bo, by the time Ascot arrives. It can be taken for granted that nearly every exquisitely-owned visitor to the royal enclosure

De wearing the new "Marina" hat

NEW LINENS

Fashion Interest Acquired

Liger is one of the most in-

summer

teresting of this year's materials important and dowdy fabric wern reluctantly for tennis and the country generally it has now acquired a fashion interest.

From being an un-

Its new surface, which in some instances has all the appearance of a worsted, is its chief claim to attention because it lessens the tendency to crease, and where there are creases the slubs and krops conceal them...

There are coat weights and dress weights in the new rens and the heavier fabrics for tailor- ed clothes show some unusua! raised surfaces. A reversible linen tweed in a check design is good In navy and white and in navy and natural, different sides showing a light ground with dark square and a dark ground with a light square. This is a pleasing

material whose smart. reverse gives plenty of scope for trim- ming pockets revers, collar, "and belt. Another linen tweed that

is in a coating weight is a semi- diagonal knop weave. the diago- nals being in a range of colours and the knops being in natural An attractive Unen also with a knop weave has a piqué stripe and is in a weight suitable for sports dresses or suits; it is made In both white and natural. A wide chevron in a pure linen slub gives interest to a material for a sult.

Some of the new liners have an admixture of cotton or wool. A herring-bone suiting line in navy is being made up with a striped coloured top in a mixture of cotton 'and' linen. A cream material in a herringbone knop weave is a half-and-half mixture "of ̈inen, and wool and has a pleasing handle. It makes tennis. or cruising coats and suits,

In Unen dress materials those made from Sandringham fax are notable, and are softer to the than ordinary touch

linen, There is one in a new texture with a crochet effect that is ex- cellent and is paricularly pleas- Ing in the Jubilee colours and In Marina-green and in natural. The selvedge has a printed mark to show that it is made from flax grown on the King's estate at Sandringham. Many alub tex- tures, are to be found in dress linens, and in a thick soft slub there is a linen in a new tone of rose-beige and in dark brown- and in natural.

There are also some new print- ed dress linens that are allled? with plain colour linen suitings. as tops; some of these are print- ed in one-colour spots on natural grounds and others are in two- colour cluster spots also on natu- fal grounds. Another two-colour - printing has a mixed stripe and spot effect. the stripe being in double diagonal. In this there are such mixtures as red and navy, brown and green, and green, and green and orange, all on natural grounds. A hand block-printed linen for cruising

Mavo's

HONG KONG

SHOPPE

SECOND

·ANNIVERSARY

HATS.

SALE

COTTON DRESSES

From $1.00 Up

33.50

AFTERNOON FROCKS... $9.50

I

(OUR ONLY SALE OF THE YEAR).

COMMENCES JUNE 1st.

From

It's smart

Always

a"

Real

Roses. Gardenias, Violets

Lovely Selection

and other Flowers in Season

The Clover Flower Shop

Gloucester Arcade..

MID-SEASON MODES

"Touches, of orange nasturtium and vivid green make excellent splashes of colour on"black after- noon and evening gowns by Jean Patou, who also favours the red bat trimmings from time to time. In one Instance these change to vivid green posed in a straight line from one shoulder-strap of black on a black and white fancy strip- ed gown which follows his new trend in caped lines

cameilla for corsage and

This new caped, movement is used on many single-strapped de- collete gowns, and performs duty as a drape when dropped from a high-necked position. It also makes an admirable asset to af ternconfrocks, and has a one- sided flat effect that wraps round the the corsage somewhat in manner of a shawl An incon- spicuous clip adjusts them to the figure.

Thatched dises of natural- coloured straw across the 'tront waistbelt strike an interesting note on a jacket and backless. dress 'ensemble worn with one of the

new coolle-shaped Talbot berets. This, like the ensemble.

Reeds, too, in 'dainty `bundles are slot through to perch up and down at intervals on green

has little flags and ships in cos of brown linen, and shows a

'miniature thatching on top. lour on an oatmeal ground. An- other fancy linen, has coloured ring spots woven.. on cream grounds, and at oatmeal crash linen has a partern of raised em- ? broidered spots in four colours,

cotton "A jacquard linen and mixture has a complicated woven design in diagonal and straight stripes with alternate groups of spots. Another mixture is a slub sutting in wool and linen, the slub being in colour on a natural ground. Checks are also seen it linens this summer. One of the most striking is a linen aufting with all the appearance of a worsted cloth with a large over- check; this is particularly good in a navy and red"overcheck. A slub linen and art slik mixture gets a curious effect by having a woven single colour spot on a natural ground.

leather belt on a banana-yellow trock, worn

brule with a pain shady straw hat simply trimmed by a ribbon of green.

A Youthful afternoon trend brings the "bell-boy" fitted bolerc jacket back into focus, smartened up in the new quilted white pique. with elbow-length gleeves and

navy or black frocks. A. grey

red

afternoon rock with shawl' cape, line is designed to go with a felt shady hat, the red which is almost as dark as right,

All who look 'well'in tailored suits should follow the floral pat- terned crepe and marotján sum- mer trend on occasions. Jean Patou designs them to go with which handkerchief linen blouses showing frilled jabots down the front. Robert Piguet uses them for the tailored jacket and frock with open-work back or one that is meticulously high.

New dinner and evening gowns from the same house tend to long.. straight tubular skirts from black or navy cloky tamets. They are slightly wider when given, a short train. A gown in the latter cate- gory looks charming in brown and white small checked organza, a brown velvet ribbon belt cor- responding with a bow tie adorn- ing the turn-down high collar of a backless coraage.