1934-12-14 — Page 3

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The Cardinal Points

CHANEL CLOTHES

HONG KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY DECEMBER

14, 1934.

LONDON FASHIONS

It is not always realised how much one is known by one's cost. The coat is the official, the public, garment. Many people know one's coat who have never seen one's" dress. Even in the summer, coats are worn as a sort of dissimulator of dresses, as a protest against making dresses too familiar. It is not so long since French mam- mas never thought of permitting daughters to go out en taille." Thus, while daughters go- out in anything nowadays, the coat is still considered an asset and 'in "the colder weather a necessity from which no one would willingly part herself.

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The Chanel model has a plea- Sant sensation of less dull daya than at present. It is beige wool trimmed with lynx. The buttons down the full sleeves are a re- sponse to the buttons down the front. It may be noted how a twist of the fur collar given the coat a bolero line which is extend- ed by the band of fur tound the upper arm. The coat is belted, as

is most often the case this year. At this designer's the call for conts to express manifold occasions re- ceives full recognition. Also vor- lous directions are indicated, as in the broad V's of the Victorians, or the redingote suggestion of an earlier period. Here is a coat made straight and black and plain with a huge collar, or rather cape. This has a small stand-up collar, Alts the shoulders, and ends in a deep point at the waist. Long es- trakhan cuffs reach to above the elbows-are, indeed, the greater part of the sleeve,

■

Hata

While the coat is perhaps the prime necessity, and in a fire it would probably be the first in- stinct to clutch at it, there are other cardinal points in the sart- orial compass. Whether the hat is sufficiently important to be in- cluded in these is debatable in a no-hat period. But at least the hat and the hair together are im- portant. The tipped hat of ma- terial may be noticed in the mo del and the bunch of curls upon which it is based. Chanel has a

good many small, rather comfort- able hats which recall the post- man with their push frontwards. There are little round hats, bereta, all with rather Edwardian hair beneath them, and making more of the hair than of themselves.

A third cardinal point this year

undoubtedly the black frock. The neat black frock is an axiom, and a little difference between one frock and another becomes

almost as telling as a new pip an

a lleutenant's sleeve. Chanel has myriads of black frocks and many ways of differentiating them. One has buttons all down one side and is worn with a flat, round, white- collar also tied on one side. Here the upper sleeve broadens towards the elbow and a close-fitting sleeve emanates from here, Panels on the hips hardly show but lend the dress interest. Another black dress has buttons down the front to well below the belt. Buttons can no more be dispensed with this season than can rivets in an fron bridge. From the :: ra- ther open, wide V-shaped neck hangs a wide black jabot in such way as to suggest a yoke-line. Both sleeves and skirt spread low down." For a formal occasion a black dress, made with hip and shoulder yoke, has an amusing and becoming arrangement of loops depending from both. The bodice loops reach almost to the " belt. Those on the skirt reach to Just below the knees. The move- ment of the material thus arrang- ed gives a good deal of grace. Black velvet is indispensable and sheaths are made of it which are greatly varied by means of cape- like sleeves. Buttons often appear down the front of these sheaths

Suits

Finally there is the necessary suit with accompanying house.. Chanel has some neat, short coats, buttoned down the front and belt- ed, put otherwise made on the re- gulation tailored lines. These al- low of the coloured scarf tucked in

at the neck to give a spot of brightness. A belge suit has a belt and below this rounded corn- ers to the fairly short cost. The edges of the coat, the cuffs, and shut-up collar are made of leo- pard skin. One short, straight coat › has a single big revers, is belted and buttoned down the side. Skirts In all cases are straight and plain.

Evening frocks here have the Chanel line of close hips with a slight tightening at the knees, or rather just above them, from which fullness springs to the ground. Very distinctive is an evening frock of notable tartan, made in such stiff ilk that side ans stand out by themselves. The colouring is in green and purple with heavy velvet stripes, and the dress is made in a sheath with a bunching on the side of one hip to balance the n low down on the other. This dress rustles when It is moved. Some of the evening skirts in black are lined with red, or have a red edge which is made to show. Huge bows trim the fronts of necks here and reach across the shoulders. The tulle frock is inevitable and is made. with a swirl of black tulle from the knees to the floor. Corres- ponding with the swirl is a cape, also of the tulle and made in lay- ers.

This reaches to the elbows and sticks out from the shoulders

For Wedding Festivities

Many

beautiful gowns have been chosen for wearing at the Royal Wedding and at the fes- tivities in connexion with I

Velvet should make an excel- lant background for the splend our of the men's uniforms. En- sembles of black or dark sap- phire blue velvet will have tunica of gold lame or quilted, lame Woven with " colour. Quilted lames are specially good em erald green. A good many velvet » dresses are trimmed with silver fox or blue fox and are made with a three-quarter length coat or with a

caped cost with a sling sleeve. Besides velvet and lame and velvets woven with me- tal will be some interesting co- lour alliances, such 25 .R blue satin

crepe dress

with a long brown velveteen coat; and a violet dress also with a brown velveteen coat, both richly trim- med with fur.

The Fur Cape

It is expected that full length fur coats will be worn at the Abbey, but fur capes of sable, dyei érmino, silver fox and other furs will be worn with afternoon, and tunde frocks. The short, but useful, fur cape has many varia- tions; some. in dolman styles dip at the back, others are of elbow- length with the fur worked up- wards in front so that the "em- broideries or trimmings of the frock can be eastly seen. There is now a great deal of embroi- dery in beads and paillettes and trimmings such as fringe, quill- inga and quiltings, and also ornate plastrons and bibs which seem hardly to be intended to be. concealed under a coat. Sleeves are more elaborate, and much bandwork is put into afternoon KOWNA.

at an angle. Buttons and gathers' are used down the fronts of even- ing frocks, giving a suggestion of tightness. Material is looped at the back and wearers may sit al- most upon bows. Shoulders have. the usual excrescences.

Mavo's

HONG KONG HOPPE HATS

Always

that are

Smart and Latest in Style

OLD HATS REMODELLED AND MADE TO LOOK LIKE NEW.

Bouth Arcade.

VIYELLA KNITTING

COMPETITION

The Viyella Knitting Competi tion, organised in Hong Kong by Messrs. Wm Hollins &Co., Ltd.. of Nottingham, England, is arous- ing widespread interest both in and outside the Colony. Entries are coming in from far up coun-

(up try.

Ladies who are finishing their work are reminded that the last date for receiving garments is 31st December. "Garments arriv- ing after that date will be too late for the judging.

ing the fast week in January and Awards will be distributed dur-

prize winners will be communi- cated with direct by the organ!-

sera.

..

Contrasting Colours Where style is severe coloured mirror buttons and paste orna, ments and ellps give reje Fleatings of coloured silk are

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used for an upstanding collar. Infra-Ray" Croquignole

and cowl draperies are lined with velvet of a contrasting colour. There are afternoon dresses of crepe satin fastened down, the back and on the shoulders with mirror buttons Skirts, calf length by day out of doors but longer indoors, are still made on straight lines, but with more movement, due sometimes to...a loose panel at the back or an

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apron or tunic front. Front bas- The Cameo Beauty Salon

ques on some of the new frocks vary the movement and suggest an alternative to a long-tunic

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