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DIRECTOIRE JEWELLERY FOR NEW FASHIONS
Classic Bracelet Designs That Have Ultra-modern Look
The new
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I
pro- great
Directoire fashions will bring
jewels into minence, and already a deal of decorative jewellery is being displayed in designs that are in keeping with the autumn "vogue in afternoon and evening
dresses.
Much of the modernist jewel- lery is based on the old Greek and Roman forms, orginally de- signed in gold, silver. bronze and dron: and this applies also to the first of the Directoire fash- lon periods in dress, when the Paris fashion creators of the day were inspired by the classic draperies of a long ago era in designing "the fantastle clothes worn by leaders of fashion after the French Revolution.
Seen. in its present-day me- dium cf platinum, silver or chromium, or in gilt this new all its classical jewellery for origin has a startlingly modern look. Lunettes. arrows, and shaped crossbars are curiously wrought into necklaces and in bracelets in matching sets chromium. Large clip-on broo ches and belt oraments adora the new models this season.
Some of the afternoon dresses have an enormous jewelled claspr worn close under the chin, as B collar fastening. In the darker coloured wool dresses, the queer Victorian reds and blues. these *' sham " Jewels bestow 2 vivid ncte of rich colour which is most effective.
It is the dressier type of frock for afternoon and evening wear that has attracted the atten-
tion of jewel designers this sea-" son, and here originality allied
to fine craftsmanship has evol-.
-
stones,
A
sapphire, a brilliant.
tour-
Dress rings are more attractive than ever, one of the latest de- signs is a "twin" ring in platinum with a double centre of two rec- tangular synthetic blue and a white
1 white ruby and Topaz. aquamarine and malit are among the stones mounted in this way with excel- lent results. The stones are fairly large, as is the trend in all Jewels this season.
Many of the new paste or- naments are lovely in design. There are clip-on" brooch pleces In a triple pattern which can be worn as one important or- nament or used as three separate clips. Counterparts in diamonds would cost hundreds of pounds. The centre is often a c.rcular floral or feather design enclosed in a square, a bar at each end carrying on the pattern.
There is always something new In necklaces, an one of the most criginal I have seen recently is a design in which miniâture carved jade elephants atrung one above the other take the place of beads. These necklaces are in.one colour in pale green or multicoloured turquoise, pink and green jade: amber. cornélian. and other stones, mixed · in un' cleverly arranged colour scheme. each ting elephant separated by a gold bead and knot of silk.
Another intriguing necklace, with its matching bracelet. Is made up of small draught-shap- ed beads in turquoise-blue and black strung" in a triple row. Egyptian blue beads are also
used for these threaded designs. Coral
treated in an original way by interspersing a thick 2in length of rope made up of small pink and white coral with "precious" stones- between enormous pink coral- synthetic anti real.
beads,
ved many exquisite ways and
means
.
Miss Cheng's Message To Hong Kong
"In recent years, foreigners have plan to go either to Manila" or become more appreciative of Chi-
1. nese dramatic art. It is my desire
to interpret our art to the best of my ability so that our Classica more appreciated and be enjoyed to a better degree by our foreign friends.
"We will open a limited engage- ment here, we will play at Canton. After our South China tour, we
Japan.
as
If everything goes scheduled, we may make an Ameri-
can tour in the fall of 1835.
"It is my firm bellel that better understanding between Chinese and people of other nations can be cultivated if we can make them familiar with our art-d presenta- tion of our ancient traditions which were handed down from thousanda of years ago."-Evelyn Cheng..
Posed specially for the "Dally/Fress" by Mas Evelyn Cheng,
HONG
KONG DAILY PRESS, FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 1934.
SCOTCH SHAWL "
Described tersely we "Scotch shawl," 13 last-minute holiday jashion arrived from France and -was shown at ở Bond Street salon. It resembled that three-cornered heavily fringed trifle known to Every Scottish grandmother, could be had in a variety of peculiarly Gallie tartunk, and could match practically day gown,” for the designers had chosen the predo minating colare very carefully. The vogur sa particularly use.. ful are at the moment, being intended for codl' evenings out of doors, and haring lightness well as warmth,
Shantung For Sun-Bathing
A
Women have taken to shan- tung for smart and delightfully cool town suits and frocks,
Now they
are having their sun-bathing dresses made of the same fabric but in gayer colour- ings and bolder patterns.
The dress is tied round the sun-bathing dresses made of the body, the ends being passed un- "der the arms through swooden. or metai ring at the back and brought back again to be knotted in the front.
The deep royal blue woollen wrap-over skirt buttons ap one alde and can be used as a rug when removed, to show little shorts of the same materials. A royal blue band encircles the shadow crown of the nine straw or stitched shantung hat,
The Fashion Problem Of
The Season
Women have to
face a new: problem." At this season of the year it goes almost without say- ing that it has to do with autumn and winter fashions.
for
It is just this-how is a woman to' get into a smart evening drea! | A little while ago the rumour want round that the new fash- toms would be designed plumber women.
Anyone who, this encouraged by
rumour, started eating fattening foods must
give them up at once. Many of the dresses are so tight it seems as if á large size shoe horn would be needed to get them on to the wearer.
BLITS ESSENTIAL A Evening dresses in particular have in maný "cásikh, abmost glove-like At. So tight arë- they that it would be impossible to get into them at all dress- makers did not provide slits at the sides-at the back and in the front, or both-which are hooked or clipped: Spring faa- teners would scarcely be equal to the strain involved!
The tightness goes to the knees or just below them. Thence to the hem are Indils, flounces. Hairs. gores, godets, pleated inset panels. slits-in short, any width-making device that appeals to the imagination of the designer.
Similarly day dresses, except those made for "occasions," like bridge parties or a smart wed- ding. are simple with a simpli city that only an expert can copy and mould the wearer's figure.
ip NIFORM
AUTUMN
Practically every dress designer "features" either a coat frock or one with a blouse bodice foined to the skirt at the waist.
This type of dress looks Eke becoming an autumn uniform.
For these novelty tweeds and lightweight woolen materials are used, preference being given to those with a knotty, crepe, rib- bed or blistered surface.
Variety is obtained by the clever use of scarves of all kinds, novel collars, unusual belts and the use of pockets.
One designer uses large cor- nucopiashaped pockets to give her tight skirta a "peg-top ap- Dearance. Some are so large that they stick out beyond the hips at each side. The idea is to emphasise the waistine.
Almost every dress, including those for the evening, are Bet- ted.
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Ribbon belts. are used with tweeds "and" woollen materials. Leather belts are used not only with day frocks but with even- ing gowns and usually in a con- trasting colour.
LEATHER POPULAR Leather, in fact, is so popular that it is used as shoulder straps, and for trimming purposes in the evening,
A black evening model has wide shoulder straps of patent leather; a white velvet even- ing dress has a blue leather belt and triangle-shaped pieces of leather introduced on the shoul- ders.
The arrival of collars means that necks have gone into tem- porary" retirement.
However, до woman is asked to put up with the discomfort of a stiu collar.
Day dresses made from soft wool or jersey materials have a straight collar to match with an edging of white law More dashing is the collar which in- troduces a vivid colour contrast, such, for example, as was pro- lded by the scarlet band linked with "brass military buttons
·which rose above a bright purple jersey dresS.
COLLARS
Other designers make collars which are quite low in front but Eriak like petals at each side of the neck, subsiding again at the back. Others use a frill of francy- striped ribbon. Others all in the front of the bodice with a soft velvet or woollen scarf which is wrapped round the throat and finished elther with a cat bow under the chin or two loops pulled well forward.
And last, there is the collar, which need not be part of the dress, made from fringe arrang- ed above and below * Darrow" "backbone" of ribbon which may studded with or may not be sequins or metal studs.
ப:
KNITTED FABRICS
Knitted fabrics are just full of the all-important "surface" in terest that has put novel weaves to the fore. But colour has lost none of its glamour in the spring collection. Pastels, bright shades, solid dark colours—they are all Being shown in a variety that challenges to hurried choice. Monotone, two-toncë and coloured patterns of checks, įduïds, stripes and troudara complete" the earit- ing possibilities of knitted fabrics,
Latest Hat Designs
Mavo's
HOPPE
HIVEKONG
HATS for all
occasions.
READY MADE
AND MADE TO ORDER.
Big selection of White FELTS. South Arcade.
Gloucester Building.
We Have in Stock The Latest Fashions
in
WOMAN APPAREL from all the World Centres of Ladies Creations.
MAISON DE MODES
MME.
D'OBRY
18, Queen's Road, Central
Paris Fashions
Three New Collections
(Special Air-Mail Service).
London, Aug. 18.
A briliant collection of winter and evening dresses has been shown by Molyneux. He has not changed the line of his mornitzg clothes much. The slim skirt. 15. a little shorter; the blouse and loose-atting cost of three-quarter length are now made of differ- ent materials, and the coat is
Baller hats, both straightbrim- med and Breton, are getting machined larger.
Ridged crowns are very much in evidence. Crowns of this kind give the fashionable shadow effect yet allow comfortable head room.
The bandeau or cache-peigne is as popular now as it was in 1908. It is used on large and small hats impartially, and props the hat off the head at the side or back. This makes it possible to wear one's headgear at a highly precarious angle with she sense of safety and com- fort.
.
The bandeau is sometimes very narrow-or very wide.
Tasseled cords, cherries, long quills and short lacquered fea- thers are most nodceable. among the new trimmings. Many, white linen Hats, stiffened and block- ed, are trimmed with small ver- million lacquered quills.
HEEL BLISTERS
If the heels of new shoes are
in olive green he makes a re- presentative outht, but his morning clothes are mostly black » or brown. He also mixes colours in his two-pieces and three-pieces. as when he puts a grey dress with a green cost. Yellow roes with" brown when a yellow blouse put with a brown skirt and loose brown coat. Check skirts go with plain bonuses and coat. : With plain wodilen dresses bpitoned up the front of draped about the shoulders 201 long wrap-over coats with fur collars.
by day and in the evening. There are lame and lace evening dresses and lamé blouses to wear with tailormades.
i
“Stratosphere"
Schiaparelli' had made ✯ bon- net of the Salvation Army Hind. without strings, and a Quakeress's cape, in dove-grey or soft white, of fat fur or soft woollen mate- Hals. Schiaparelli's materiais in- clude glass, with which she makes a dress to look lika frosen dew- drops. She has also put wired hem lines to two of her dresses; but most of her clothes are such as all can wear. The costa and skirts and little dresses, with hats to go with them, are impretentions and modern for all their grave simplicity. The evening theuses of rich sating and laine, and che- nille velvet capes, have the zimna picky which cames of perfect proportion. She calls one of her colours stratosphere: it is a deep purple. A pigeon-breast pink is 'a delicate colour, and there tà gun-metal grey called mercury.");}
Jeanne Lanvin has made many black woollen coats and wraps trimmed with broad-tail or as- trakhan. · Al, long, slim ‘cape has pointed flaps on the" shoulders. and is caught to the figure by the way it is held in front by the - arms; it goes as well with a cost. and skirt as with a dress. On all her black Lanvin puts metal (rim- mings--gilt, steel, copper. Some- timer she uses colour with bisck.
For the evening there are vel- vet dresses unbroken from shoul- der to hem by any belt or.tlin- ming
They follow without moulding the lines of the figure and fall straight to the feet and have trains behind. Little sleeves come with the seamless cut of the bodice, which la low in front and" béhind. "The shaded velvets from- deep bottle-green to pale Chart- reuse, from midnight blue to pale turquoise, from deep red to pale rose, from brown to orange, 'are rich in colour. · Velvet dresses are also trimmed with a ruche of tul-bright red or light green-but chiefly she resorts to metal for brightness. go with wool
hard enough inside to cause blisle in another colour about the "ters, rub in a teaspoon of castor oil through the roan lining at that point inside the shoe. The oil will soak into the heel stif- fener and make it pliable and soft without any tendency to slip or failing to grip.
K
hem of the skirt and round the shoulders. Evening dresses are tight about the hips and knees. but fuller below." Bodices are cut low at the back and sometimes in front. Taffeta dresses are still in fashion. Capes are worn
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Silver lamé blouses touches of diver Iamé are put on velvet. Her af ternoon and evening bodice line is as if she had taken two fat shells and had put one in front. one at the back, and loosely Join ed them by cords or bands under the arm; the shell may be rolled back to the neck in curves, since the shells are slightly stiffened by stitching. Stitched materials are frequent; satin, velvet, lamé woollen cloths have fine lines of machine stitching to make ́broadtail and metal or black Jet buttons. Skirts are slim, and for, the evening may be allt at the side, by day the cut gives thems eriqugh fullness:
Parma, violet is one of Lanvin'ay colours. She puts stitched violeti Satin wraps over white and 1 ver evening dresses, Wih Game-coloured velvet dreas she puts a gold „a black dress, D.
All evening wraps are alim and may have. hem to show the dre
lame la, used in one dre wrong side with the Curved back at this shou backs no bodées give c food dresses a gleam Long sleeves hang-full and
■lts on the upper arm.
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