1925-12-08 — Page 8

MEN'S DRESS.

THE HONGKONG · DAILY

PRESS, TUESDAY, DECEMBER 8TH, 1923

JEWEL-BEDECKED DANCING

GIRL.

STAND.

W

11

A London sequel last month to the murder in Bombay of a wealthy Indian

you perky Are your thoughts turned to gaiety and joriality Do you lullilee OUR EVENING UNIFORM. with joy You do not, but if there is anything in the association of ideas you When man changes his clothes in the should feel at least a lifting of the SENTENCES IN MUMTAZ CASE TO

picture of a man in a spirit. Seu evening he discards à suit of elegance cassoek and biretta and you become genve and comfort and adopts one which, if and reverent. See a picture of a hand- not actually uncomfortable, a highly some soldier in uniorm, and you stiffen, Who will put back your shoulders and maybe turn ludicrous in appearance. give us a new kind of evening cloth...out your toes; See a picture of a police merchant with whom Mumtaz Begur, o man and you think of traffic blocks and Lord Mayor'a shows, which are exactly what a policeman should suggest. But if you see a picture of a man in evening dress you are not thereby reminded of the recreations of life. Far from 11 Your thoughts may range from the Soho scoundrel who put his thumb in the soup to thousands of mad truors burling

for men?

It is extrunely amusing that we wear our most happily designed clothes for

Thora" at you at a charity, concert.

dancing girl, took refuge was a petition to appeal against sentences of death ic the ease of some of the prisoners am victed of the crime, and transportation for life in case of others.

All the applications were refused. The application came belere the Judi-

It is my ambition to scheme an even-cial Committee of the Privy Council, ing sait for man that will suggest represented by Lord Dunedin, Lord Sum- pleasure rather than misery, the sunshine ner, and Sir John Edge. rather than the cloud. No good trying

Sir John Simon, K. C., M.P., Sir George

...

INDIANS IN COURT.

work, and that when the time comes to play or relax we garb our diversivo-seeking bodies in a uniform that almost suggests that we are ashamed of our intentions. I know that golfers wear plus fours in order to mark their degradation, and

to be pleasant if your clothes clash with R. Lowndes, KC., Mr. J. M. Parikh, and to warn non-golfers against enltivating

Mr. M. R. R. Pillai "appeared for the their acquaintance, but what is there your mood.

I remember that in the amateur panto-appellants, the Crown being represented desreputable or ignominious about dining- qut, dancing, or theatre-going! Yetime which was given in my home last by Mr. A. M. Dunne, K. C., and Mr.

Christmas I was put down on the pro- Brown. educated men all over the world on every gramme to play a grig." When the

The convicted men were Shafi Ahmed night of every season never go forth to time came for allocating the costumes,

I was thrown something utterly inappro Nabi Ahmed, and two others who were disport without first of all branding priate, a dark jacket with a Puritan sentenced to death, and three who were A further sort of Alpine hat which sentenced to transportation themselves with the sinister stigma of collar and

would have done splendidly for Switzer- prisoner, sentenced to transportation for dress clothes,

land in the Grand Procession of All life, whose case was considered separate- ly," was that of Anandrae Gangaran Nations, but would be absurd for The question in his case was grasshopper. If I must be a grig.". I remember saying bitterly, "give me whether he could be convicted of murder. All the men were sentenced at Bombay something to wear that at any rate re-

on May 23rd last for complicity in the motely "suggests a grig."

murder of a man named A. K. Bawla, by ahooting, the injuring of others, including the girl Mumtaz Begum, and conspiracy to kidnap the last named from

Consider the composition of the suit. Nothing remarkable about the trousers, and nothing remarkable about the dinner jacket. If I deride the tail coat, you will be quick to point out that something similar is part of the morning dress worn when man cannot wish to proclaim a sense of humiliation. Well, there is a

difference, large triangles being hacked out from either side of the front wings but I shall agree that this oddity is no very marked, and, if intended as a acknowledgment of obloquy, is a tride fartive in its method. It is the waist coat which man to proclaim his sense of humiliation when parted from

his work.

17309

THE WAISTCOAT. ·

i need not, perhaps, describe an even.. ing dress Waistcoat. It is either white or black. (Evening waistcoats of other tints are worn by non-men,) It has a largo hole in its front extending from the neck almost to the top of the trousers. This holo varies in breadth. With your haifing it may be bus seven or eight inches, but with the members of the aristocracy of avoirdupois it may be more. Now, there is a hole also in the day waistcoat, but it is a trifling wedge, when all is said and done, and invented to gratify those who find pleasure in the foppery of a coloured cravat. Then we are all fops, say you. Not at all: I take you up. Before me on my table' is a photograph of my father, who never were neckties. He had his waistcoats made without a hole, that they buttoned right, up to the neck.

10

The bole mando by the tailor in the evening waistcoat should be filled some how. Do we 5 it? We do not. We ask the censorious world to gaze upon our shirt, and I maintain that here is

one of humanity's most humble and touching gestures. Inta garbed for recreation, ays the Man is dress clothes, but let you suspect me of being a drone I show you a shirt which is even as yours. You may not approve of my having the front starched, but that is done to irritate me into a con stant awareness that in the midst of life we are in death, and in order to keep draughts of my weak ches" Something beautif. here, if one had the agility to spbar it.

THE COLLAR. Round the neck of the man in evening uniform goes a stiff, upright collar which melts in warm weather and even in the winter may collapse in a warm room. A bright little butterfly bow like those you see in the hair of Ethel, aged nine, in the family albums, completes the out. 86, Perhaps I should mention the studs in the shirt front. Mr. Footer thought them very imporant. He was, as you ought to know, the hero of The Diary of a Nobody," and suffered mental agony upon a certain occasion for fear that his son might notice that the coral was missing from one of father's dress stula. There were good days. No corals now only pearls and gold

Well, it will be admitted that, so dressed, man looks very ridiculous. If the uniform be well made it is not definitely uncomfortable, but there will be none to deny that it might be a great deal more comfortable than it is. (Out with it, you cry, all impatience. All in good time. I have schemed substitute, and I know that you will deride it. Argal, I shall postpone your derision as long na possible.) Evening clothes, then, be ing ugly, and less than perfectly com fortable, can havo as their sole excuse the determination of the wearer to pro- claim that he has abandoned work for recreation.

17

THE TOGA,

as Work Der-

India

The special petition to appeal was heard in the oak-panelled court in Down- ing-street, whose bookshelves somewhat suggested a public reference library, About a dozen Indians were in court.

Sir John Simon outlined the circum- stances leading up to the crime, and said there was no reason whatever to suppose that Phanse was present on that occasion.

It was alleged proceeded Sir John Simon, that these men were engaged in a conspiracy to abduct the woman Mum- taz Begum, who had previously been associated with the Maharajah of Indore, and who had left Indore in April 1994. Subsequently she became associated with Bawla There was some evidence to show was concerned in a con- that Phanse spiracy to take this woman back to

So da 1 feel about misle evening dress. Let is suggest ease, recreation, duite par diente, and a certain chirpiness. For a long time. I played with the idea of toga. We should look rather magnificent, should we not? You could have any colour. Mine would be purple, with a gold-embroidered tunic manently by Julius Caesar. The hat that goes with it is called the apex, made of leather and shaped like a tall and rather thin pyramid. A jolly hat, I am ready to argue The silk topper suggests politics and doctors, while anything with a peak in it somehow suggests merriment. But the toga is, of course, for slower, more majestic days We no longer have the manner for it, and there will be some of the other sex to add that we have not the legs. That shall be as it may. The masculine leg is certainly not mere de cadent than the feminine figure. But the principal point against the toga is that while it must have beca supremely comfortable, it does not suggest gaiety. It seems to me that trousers are absolute ly necessary for a costume that is in tended to convey an air of jauntiness.

But what sort of trousers. There is enly one kind that infallibly moves you to sympathetic smiles. Not the Oxford extensions, which are without symmetry and so arouse stares of contempt. I re fer to the bell-bottoned trousers of the Jack Tar. Think of thera! I see you smiling already. Very well, you sha}! be wearing trousers of just that pattern

asked the jury to decide whether Phanse before long, and scarcely will you have a summing up at the trial the judge braced them on before a wave of waggish-

was telling the truth or whether he was nets will suffuse you.

in fact guilty of plotting to abduct tae

Indore.

While Mumtaz Begum was in Indore there were certain ceremonies, and she was decked up with certain-jewels, which she did not return

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RETIRED PROCONSULS.

A staccato order from the Subadhar

"Garter- Major-which sounded like roat rattle of rities and accoutre- The result was that when she disapments as the Pathaus lounging in the peared the keeper of the jewels was guardroom verandah sprang to the sum arrested and thrown into gaol. There mons, a ring of steel, a bash of bayonets, was no doubt that those men thought if and then the high-pitched commanu, they could get the woman back to Indore Sint arr-um-s with the jewels the jewel-keeper would be released.. Phansé admitted that he had made efforts to get her back to Indore because he believed from inquiries made that she was willing to go back.

.

woman.

JURT'S FINDING CRITICISED

The case, said Sir John, was tried in an atmosphere which made it extremely diffi- cult to get an impartial trial, and it was true that with regard to Phanse, there was no clear distinction drawn.

WHY NOT A SKULL CAPT

Instead of dealing, with that point, the Now, what shall we wear with the bell-jury found him guilty of murder, a point bottomed trousers? I see a jerkin that which the judge had never raised. is something between an artist's blouse and a smeck. There would be deep pockets in the jerkia for such things as sandkerchiefs, and smoking materials, and under all would be a body belt with neat pockets for money, tickets, koys and knife. Round the neck I would suggest a rule such as pierrota wear. ruffle is very suggestive of case and pleasure, and its use would compensate the laundries for the loes of shirt work On the head a skull-cap. It is high time that the hairless were relieved of a grave disability, and if all men wore gaily coloured skull-caps, who should say which was fifty and which fifteen?

There should be no restrictions in the matter of celour. The brightest tints would naturally be worn by the young, while the old fogies would be content, with neutral and dark tones. All we want to make the thing a success is a few volunteers to exhibit its charm and suitability. Oh, I know that I can get the Bright Young People, but, believe me, they have not enough influence. I send cut my call to the potent, the grave and the reverend, to the Worthies of London. Whither they lead all will follow. Name me a politician of any party who could not obtain a following by wearing bell-bottomed trousers and ruffle-By BASIL M. HASTINGS in the Evening Standard."

THE GREAT MYSTERY.

"AFTER-DEATH", THOUGHTS

DAME NELLIE MELBA.

When Mr. A. M. Dunne, KC., rose to reply for the Crown, Lord Dunedin said that he need not deal with any part of the case except the arguments on behalf of Phanse's application.

Mr. Dunne then proceeded to present the case for the Crown, regarding Phanse's complicity in the affair.

The application of Phanse, like the others, was refused.

Lord Dunedin said they did not ical they could advise the King to grant leave for any of the appellants, and they would give their reasons later is writing.

LONDON'S NEW TUNNEL.

PROGRESS ON AUTOMATIC

TELEPHONE PLANS.

To cope with the rapid growth of the London telephone service Post Office engineers are constructing a huge tunnel in, the heart of the City. "It is to carry

the lines and cables for a giant tele phone house" to be erected in Wood street, E.C., ad as this building is to contain three exchanges--two of them will be known as "Metropofitan" and "National "at least 30,000 pairs of lints have to be provided for. "

The site is that which the Germans helped to clear during the war when a BY Zeppelin bomb destroyed the premises of Mesara Ward, Sturt, and Sharp, and it is from here that the great tunnel now being constructed starte.

What awaits us after the close of this

Under the title "When I am Dead

Now, is this necessary? Very desirable. it is that we should change our clothes life? for the last five or six hours of the day,

11

And His Excellency, seated in a downy-cushioned victoria-there still urej horses in the East-sis with pugris of scarlet and gold on the box, mounted orderlies in attendance, drove slowly and sedately-but with all proper pomp and circumstance through the Residency

gates.

Europeans in open cars, on polo ponies, or on foot saluted with impress ment as he passed; natives salaamed profoundly; a few coolies emphasised their loyalty this, by the way, was not in India--by even more servile obeisance,

with black or brown slim hands raised to foreheads to shade the eyes from the passing glory.

That was some years ago, but the scene reproduced itself instantaneously today, when I inadvertently bumped into

✡ felt-hatted, coarse-coated in- Army and Navy Stores, and noticed, dividual at the grocery counter of the idly, that the coat was not by any means of this-or last--winter's cut.

He had grown old, that Resident, and in spite of the qualification preceding bis name and the many and varied initials following it, he seemed a wearied and disillusioned man. Together We walked down Victoria Street, he with no survival of the grand manner, and I striving for a shattered sense of pro- portion, as yet inadequately adjusted.

Then whoo, near the station-crossing, a white gloved and imperious policeman spread abroad a head like a ham in a pillow-slip, and with a cart word un- ceremoniously pushed the ex-Resident on one side, I looked involuntarily for a spectral guard that would promptly put bat temerarious constable, under close and instant arrest for daring to touch the Heaven-born.

Alas! my Resident made no protest- years since the iron had bitten too deeply into his soul-and with a pathetic and apologetic half-smile to me, as you should say, How are the mighty Iailen indeed," he went his way, carrying, un-: less I greatly erred, his half-weekly ration of

groceries

"

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The three exchangen at Wood-strect will be automatic, and in order that but why into a ludicrous uniform 1 Surea London paper has initiated a great there shall be no difficulty in connecting ly it would be far better to put on an- discussion on the final human mystery subscribers in the future the Post Ofies out other lounge suit, which is probably the All lines of thought are represented in is now making arrangements for every tiguous and unresponsive kitchen garden meet-if you are in the way thereof neatest and most comfortable costume the contributions published by that new building erected in the City to be to him an oasis in a cold and un-presiding at meetings of Tin or Rubber Wired for telephones on every floor and sympathetic world. But not altogether or other companice, adapting themselves ever designed for men. If we must paper. show our shirts, just as repentant peo-

Dane Nellie Melba exprosses her frank in every room so that a would be suby forgotten. For not although oblivious of with tact and savoir faire to altered ple in the classics bare their breasts, views and feelings in an article of re-scriber can be connected up with the the years of striving, of toilsome conditions and greatly benefiting thereby. aurely it would suffice if we left cf our markable interest. She is most uncom appropriate exchange within a few hours routine, administrative study and closest

But the vast inarticulate majority, the waistcoats. To take off a waistcoat with promising in stressing her conviction of a request for service being received application by which his past pre-

mall hole in it and put on another that death is not a finish. "I know," To-day there are 263,000 exchange eminence was won, & meticulously jealous autumn of whose lives is but faintly with a very much deeper hole is a sho says, and recalls a time (she was lines and 450,000 instruments working Government will see to it that the last warmed by recollections of the days that gesture that we shall have great difficulty listening to "Parsifal") when she fell in the London area, and this number, it obol is wrung from the pittance, of a were: they, too, have their consolations

Batavia": "Whatever may have is expected, will be greatly increased pension on which, together with futile They have reached the brights, and con in explaining, when finally called upon into a trance. to givo an account of the use to which been my physical "state," Dame Nellie when the automatic exchanges come into memories of the past, our home-comer versely, plumbed the depths; and it, in we have put our intellecta,

I was quite aware of my operation. Altogether there are to be exists. Can you blame him-and bis so doing they have not acquired traer spiritual condition. I was not on this 138 in London, and of these the first to in that he, driven from the haven to sense of perspective, a knowledge of, and earth; I was in another existence, bo working will be the new. Holborn, wards which he has looked for decades, the power to apply, the best of all "Liko almost every man and woman erected on the site of the Inns of Court hies himself to cheap Continental resorts philosophies-that born of personal ex more aimless perience and do not benefit thereby, who thinks at all, my belief in immor Hotel, High Holborn. It will be the and lives there an even

existence F

thoirs be the funt. (Major NOTES in tality is based on instinct," is another end of next year before it will be in

(Continued at foot of neat Columny The Timer) phrase used by the great prima, dopan working order.

Do modern evening clothes suggest enjoyment? Stop and look at a tailor's picture of a man so dread Gaze into a window upon a wax figure in joy zags What is conjured up. Are you ex hilarated, put in good humour? Become

avers,

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