1922-07-18 — Page 6

THE HONGKONG DAILY PRESS, TUESDAY, JULY 18TH, 1999,

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BEAUTY AND DRESS. LADY DIANA ON THE BATTLE

OF THE SKIRTS...

Lady Diana Cooper, the brilliant daugh. ter of the Duke of Rutland. batter known as the Lady Daina Manners in a special article, in the Daily Mail discusses the topic of absorbing interest to women-the Battle of the Skirts.

CI

If you ask me what should be the length of a skirt you must first tell me what you are going to do in it. Obviously the same garment will not be suitable for trumping the moors and for reposing it a drawing So before approaching the thornier' side of the problem, which is the aesthetic, let us dispose of the simpler, which is the athletic

ro

•"!

It is the simpler bonuse there can surely be little disagreement" that a long trin will get in the way of the hockey player, and that the hands of the walker can be better employed that in hokling her dress out of the mild. This latter consideration brings us to another side of the question, and one that in these days must not be overlooked-the bygienic. A short skirt gathers no dirt, wherms trailing one carries away with it a clinging cloud of dust that contains the germs of all the ills that deal is heir to.

Judged, therefore, from the standpoint of exercise And "health, two fetishes of the modern world, the short skirt triumphs over the long. But this contest, cannot be decidel on the first two rosuda, matters of dress, beauty, which we are often in danger of forgetting all about. should surely be the last Court of Appeal.

BEAUTY AND UTILITY,

Which in the most becoming is question that must always take precedence of which is the most useful, Not that beauty and utility KA ever be entirely divorced, The obviously inconvenient, such as the hobble skirt on a mountaineering expedition, how- evor pretty it may be in Bond-street, becomes, owing to its surroundings, incongruous, grotesque, and downright ugly.

If we attempt, as it were, to isolate beanty, to enter in a realm of purc aesthetics where no other considerations are allowed to intrude the air becomes so rarefel that only the very highest highbrows can continue to breathe it with comfort. Recourse has at open to be bad to the experts. Famous painters, Royal Academicians, specialists is beauty but not beauty specialists-are called in. Their, advice is eagerly asked, with the distressing result that they are found to disagree, and the humble inquirer is more in the dark ther before.

li

Where is the High Priest of dressmak- ing courageous enough to lay down a rule? What role can we imagine that will stand the test of criticism. One man. my Kay, The ankle is a beautifal thing? therefore it is plain that the skirt should show it." But will even this simple pro- position hold water? Same ankles aro beautiful things, but oh! not nearly all; and even if they were, why should beautiful things be exposed to the pry- ing eyes of the multitude? Does uct concealment enhance the charm? And the connoisseur of unkles must remember that even the longest skirt may be lifted.

Some of those who have written on this subject-I think they were meu--bave pointed out, no doubt from careful dbserva- tion, that different lengths" of skirt suit different types of beauty. The fact is indisputable. Juno needs a train und Trilby does not. Bet when your manle contributors deduce from this simple truth the apparently equally simple doctrine that Juno should wear a train and Trilby go without, they are unwittingly advocating procedure which, if carried to its logical conclusion, would lead to nothing less than Bolshevism in the realms of Fashion.

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QUEERING COUE. FRENCH DOCTORS TAKE ACTION.

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Says a Paris message in

A London felt criticism in London, its tooth is even paper:-M. Cové is finding that if he sharper in his own town of Nancy. Since his return from England, he has resumed his quiet life. He is not doctor and does not practise medicine, but to suffer-

as to what is right and wrong. Law mayers who go to him he is in the habit of he fallible, but it is all we have to go by, giving such advice as was made familiar Fashion was inverted because we cannot during his London lectures-" Every day agree" as to what is beautiful. If we want and in every way 1 am better and a warning as to the results of disregarding better." law, look at Russia. If you want a war. ing as to the results of disregarding Fashion, go to an artistic tex party in Chelsea.

This advice appears not to have given tisfaction to medical practitioners in Nancy, and a friend who returned thereo to-day tells me that a professional group against M. Coné for the illegal practice there is about to set on foot proceedings of medicine.

When decent, law-abiding men in the meanness of their hearts advise their women to disregard that silly, frivolous

A family name Juzerd, living near thing called Fashion, they little realise Neufchatel, asked M. Come's advice in the evil direction, in which their advice isregard to their little daughter, and they tending, or the pernicious results to which had such faith in him that, though the it eventually may lend.

child's condition has become worse, they When skirts grow short, Juno must grin have rëfused to call in a doctor. Whe and hear it and bide ber time while Trilbyther or not there is a danger of the makes the hay. For the skirts will come child dying, and what part, if any, M. down again as surely as the leaves fall in Coué bas played beyond communicating autumn, and Trilby's short bair will look his formula, is not stated, but it is upon silly when it has to be worn with a long this case that the local doctors are said train. Jupiter may thunder and lighten to be combining against him. and say his wife is making a guy of herself at enormous expense, but he will have his reward when the wheel of Fashion" has turned full cycle and Juno can sweep into the ballroom again, trailing clouds of glory, every inch a queen.

WIFE'S

"COERCION". PLEA.

The Committee of legal authorities to As in business every man must do the which the Lord Chancellor, after the best for himself, keeping within the law, recent decision in the Peel case, referred so in dressing every woman must make the question of the responsibility of a the most of herself according to the fashion wife for crimes committed under the of the year. Nobody can afford to neglect coercion of her hushed" reported on it English women study it less carefully June 2nd. They unanimously recommend than French women, with the result that defonce to the wife for crimes committed "that coercion of the bushand as a they are worse dressed. Men, while affecting to despise it, are really though ed, leaving her free to establish any by her in his presence should be abolish- unconsciously its sidves. Ask them to other defence or to urge the coercion in describe this year's fashion and they mitigation of punishment.". honestly coudn't do it, but appear to

them in a dress some three years out of date,

and they will assure you that it is one they never liked,

Sir William Orpen recently drew in Fashion's business to be sensible. Some these columns a picture of what he con- fashions seem to us more beautiful tbau sidered a skirt of the ideal length. Needless others, but on investigation these - will to say, the length of the skirt coincided usually prove to be the ones that most: exactly with the fashion of to-day Sir Wil nearly resemble our den.

lism had unintentionally produced a fashion The correct length for a skirt is the plate. Some fashions seem more sensible fashionable length, and I will tell you what than others, but it is not really the fashion is going to be if you will tell

(Confinued et foot of neat column.) me what is going to win the Derby.

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