1959-09-22 — Page 4

12

Women

icy peak

dose climb

Madame Claude ko-

gun, expedition Iruder,

From OUR OWN

CORRESPONDENT

London.

Wn

711 four tons of equipment (including Riviera swimsuits), 12 women are on their way to climb one of the toughest mountains in the Himalayas.

The mountain is 26,750ft Cho Oyu, otherwise "The Big Head."

The

Word's

expezifis

first of its kind to tackle such a peak, is now inaking its way slowly uver rough country lu the foothills 2 the m

which is permanently snow- covered od swept by his winds.

The sum is guarded by a vertical leewall, 2,000 feet high.

The final assaul wit prob

ably tre ntade

October.

mid-

First

Venture Of Kind

Meanwhile the women, who include diree from Switzerland, France, Belgium and Nepid, are preparing for a difficult climb

by a rigorous march over 200 alles froin Katmandu, the expital of Nepal.

Already they have gone through monsoon

leech-infested jungle, blazing sunshine,

Final drive

downpours.

Whenever they can, they stay by a mountain stream fo swlen and was their hair.

Then they wear snart swinguits which have been provided

by expedition lemler Claude Kogan, of Nice.

Chaude Is small, fidchoiredt, niged 40, and one of the world's best women mountaineers.

She has already failed in one attempt to

agh.

elimb

Choclimbed in the high Andes and expediton the Alps before he died in Nice

in 1952.

Since then she has aget a Itivlern swimsuit manu- facturing business between ex- peditions,

Oyu during an with a Swiss team, five years

They

til reach more than 25.000 feet before being forced buck by impossible conditions: Claude was the only women in the team and this earned her tale of "highest woman in the world," although she is only Sft tall.

She is the widow of a moun-

with whom she taineer

often

QUOTE

by Mgr R. L. Smith, Banan Catholle service You:

MODERN Bayehologists

nl

mar-

she climbs she Whenever carries a photograph of him with her,

The year after his death she was a member of a party which elimbed Nun Kun, - other Himalayan peak, and she left a copy of his photograph box on the

sealed in stammalt.

"small

No male worry

a Like other companions on the in present expedition she is not worried by the absence of male elhubers to take the responsi- bility.

arc

Hatened to with mare preachers, respect today then but often they are coming paa. derously only to The Kame Conclusions ial were *inted long ago by theologians, noi to mention that supreme practical psychologist, the mother of the Large family.

--by Canon Ronald Preston, in

Fermen

She said the was sure they could all manage and added severcly: "I don't want any- thing to take my companions' minds of the mountain."

or the others, whose ages the mid-thiriles, only overage one bewalled the lack of men. She was pretty Belgian Claudine van der Stratten.

murmured: "It's To ing to be terrible having only women for company for three

who Mumehester Cathedral, referring to clergy- men lying lawful authority:-- I AWFUL authority takes the legal test of what appears reasonable to a reasonable man.

Imonths."

П niece

with

THE CHINA · MAIL,

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 22, 1959.

Heading into a monsoon-that is why the women moun- taineers are wearing raincoats and carrying umbrellas. Ahead of them standı o mountain 26,750ft. high.

On Himalayas without men

organising

the

expedition, pretty, grey-haired Margaret and the only

he Darvall, who is principal of u. return that they should secretarial nekud was

school in Hamp stead, London, and the Countess include the girls.

Dorothen Gravina, mother of She has three grown-up sons, been put in charge of the 170 carrying the porters who Expedition's equipenent,

They dild this willingly, because all three are experiene

limbers and tougher than any European.

Just before they left Kai- maudu a few weeks ago the three British women discovered they were the only ones who were not sterylng their collezi

log to plant on the summit of Cho Oyu, and now the British Embassy in Nepal is arranging to have special ene sent on to them by runner.

The

Eileen

ure

of Paris, and Lou Xooulaz, of Ceneva.

They are all experienced elimbers and have taken part In previous expeditions.

Reporter John Griffiths, now visiting Russia, continues his series....

'Don't measure us by

your yardstick...

THINK once, think twice, think thrice before you write, and do nɔt measure us by your own yardstick," a young Russian intellectual of considerable intelligence warned me as we discussed the differences in our approach to life. "And remember that even in 20 years you would not be able to fathom the soul of Russia."

This was a counsel of perfection I could not keep, but I tried to bear it in mind.

Inevitably my reactions were sometimes coloured by prejudice and irritation. Nevertheless, I found much to admire that I did not expect to. Some of my fallacious beliefs have been exploded and some of my anti- pathies against Communism confirmed.

ger.

If today It takes 20 years or the "rules" laid down by those war is still fraught with dan- more to fathom the Russian in power. soul the Russians have them. solves partly to blame.

it.

an

It is fair to add that in Russla this has been the paraphernalia of almost every one of the trimnics that have deminated

is history.

I did, however, find two ways which the vell could be

Our

philosophy of life pre- chides the aggressive invasion of another country by armies of radio-borne ideas ng burely as it does Invasion by para- do not dissociate troops. We the two.

Our

CREED

propaganda

is more

The ordinary unroasting tourist flounders in bureaucrney and inemelency from the mo- ment he sets foot in Russia. The idea that an Individual should tour at his own whim and organise his own activities pierced-wither by ignoring the Is so alien to the Russian pas- rules entirely and doing what 1 sium for regimentation that it whhed on the assumption that

resolutely

prople would be too surprised Ignored аз

to stop me, or by getting visa strictly speaking only counter- berranton, should cayene voice

arranged by u friend high enough to ignore the rules.

Under both sels of cir cumstances found everyone more than willing to show me Nobody

knows anything what I wanted to see. least of all the compulsory "guide" without whom A Again this seemed to bring me

notorist cannut travel.

tack to the central paradox: the Russians to friendliness and suspicion, the the brink. They desire for peace and the nurture

enmily.

BLIND

Initiative is taboo and per- sonal responsibility anathena

10 almost every member of Intourist the organisation

The reasons this apparent con- responsible for hampering tradiction can be and has been foreign visitors.

faken to such a pitch without spilling over into war seemed to me to be two-fold.

The

DANGER

Had we been content to sub- mit to their ministrations and Margaret Darvell is among the quiet Ineptitude of hotel The fow who have not climbed staffs we should have -sven before out of Europe, though no more of Russka than the inside

ornate she has conquered Mont Blanc. of

End restaurants

simplest and probably The expedition members cathedral-like hotels, the dowdy

most Important is the gathered

19th century aspect

of the In Katmandu August and spent their first few Russia's public architecture and dichotomy that exists in the mind between ideo- weeks organising porters and museums tad galleries crowded Ruian equipment,

with relics of a rather tasteless loglent and physical conflict, past. One cannot avoid the

quite probably suspicion Intentional,

in late

propaganda. But there comes a point where most Western invasion leaders feel that the of ideas in a certain form can only and must be repellet by retaliation, [[erein physical lies the danger.

So far it has

always sulted draw back at cannot, how- ever, understand our attitude, which they feel is a sign, that we must be afraid of ideas in themselves.

They are certain only that they must have peace if they are to prove the superlarity of Socialism and eventually Communism-in material terms. They belleve also that by one.

another, they means and

ereed into every spread their mind in the world.

сол

If the exchange of visits bo- tween Khrushchary and Elsen- hower leads to an understand-

The pattern of development Ing of the different relations of war in the two that has led to Mr Khrushchev hot and cold

the renouncing

Leninist blocs i will be more agreement doctrine that war with the than any capitalist countries Is'inevitable means by which a hot war"might

For the final assault on the mountain they will be wear ing their high niillude mults. In the meatime est they march through Nepal on 1 the path which takes them up Largely Gravina really l 14,000 feet high, and dealings with Intourist 1 soon is as of much significance in be waged.

Miss Darvall and Countess originated the Iden nf the women's expedition two years !I* {

10 Invite and decirled Madame Kogan to be Its leader when she came to London as guest of honour al an Alpine Cab dinner.

She accepted at once and re- the other members, who include Dr Colette le Brug,

Englishwomen are Mrs cruited

Healey, A housewife,

QVEIS.

that

this may

unjustined be

my because of

the Lenditional

A

im Russia's uproach to the Weat of as the extraordinary growth of economle and milltary by her

feet Into valleys, gathered down 2,000

counity their Paris-pression of they are wearing

energy clogged made walking uniforms of blue boundless stacks and pink woollen pull-bureaucracy. This is perhaps power,

after 40 years of a Inevitable regime that has depended for its survival on the suppression of personal Initiative among the

and o bulk of the population blind unihinking adherence to

The sight of this expedition, consteting entirely of "mem sahibs," fasritates the Nepalese who come for miles to see them pass.

CURIOUS

valuable over the

These projceted meetings and It is because we in the West the conferences at Genevi have are fundamentally incapable of been welcomed by ordinary but the welcome is accepting this rigid separation Russions, of physical and Ideological tinged with caution and doubt valid that the cold in view of what the Prost and radio lead him to believe is Western intransiglenee.

warfare 03

PRIVATE LINE by Chapman Pincher

LOSING no time to open fire in what looks like

being the toughest election battle of the century the Socialists launch their first salvo in Private Line, the China Mail Column about power and the men who wield it.

I put Also in the party are the What would Labour do to the Forces? two daughters and There is no need for absolute of Sherpa Tensing Norkay, who the question to Mr George Brown, the man chosen Sby them for Cabinet rank in the key position of Defence Minister. He directs his barrage on Mr the women when they were Duncan Sandys, whose revolutionary moves have

uniformity. There may be per-climbed Everest missible deviations, provided Edmund Hillary. they come within the points on lawful authorily.

He was Hi erral help

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King George VI

to

caused great controversy.

m

As this is a considered state- Services at the top-to provide ment of high policy, Mr Brown's a single unifled Service at the answers are given without com- rank of Brigadier, Air Commo- dore and Rear-Admiral und above-would be a better move. This would enable the Services in keep their separate traditions at the lower levels.

WHAT are your plans, If any, for the integra- tion of the Services?

Mr Brown: At first sight the

complete integration of the Air Force

We would set up a small and

invites Labour's opening salvo: HOW THEIR

THEIR DEFENCE

CHIEF WOULD GIVE

THE FORCES A SHAKE-UP

George

Brown

+1

ANSWERS THE QUESTIONS

and

therefore

and export After two recent visits to this, bomber la obsolescent

in

contradicts it or the

Its the ignorance of the peoples of the two blocs about is the second each other that

and more complex factor in the present paradox, Nor is it by Eny means all on one side.

In both instances it makes the people more plastic in the hands of demagogues; the difference being in the responsibility and purpose of the respective de- magogues and their methods.

Nevertheless, a 'glant curiosity stalks abroad in the Soviet Union today. Every Western vatter 19 questioned with urgent and compelling eagerness.

The centre of attraction in our case was cur Vauxhall Cresta; which represented for them the epitome of Western civilation.

How

"How fast did go? many cylinders? What miles per gallon?" And then, having satisfied themselves as to ita

position proves to be as I sus-technical excellence, the more relevent questions: "War. It pect, I would reverse it.

mine? How many ears in your country?

How much did it Atom-ships

slow

THE GOVERNMENT

вестя 10 be extremely

cost?"

IDEAS

in getting to serious work on atomic propulsion

There comes a point, so the for merchant ships. Do you think the project should be advertisers tell us, when a cam- paign provokes sales resistance, and coupled speeded up?

with Russlan Definitely. It almost looks 85

curiosity is Д surprisingly though the present Ministers

cynical dismissal of propaganda, have lost the traditional British Rusion as well as American.

air nation.

Pro-

and Navy would seen powerful committee of people sensible as their main functions with experience

to consider all the area I believe that the present that there should are the same to deliver the knowledge

the British be no investment in a super deterrent and Transport and possibilities. In my view some arrangements put support the Army.

measure of integration must be Forces in considerable jeopardy. Bonie bomber to replace the achieved in the lifetime of the It is a situation terribly reminis

V-bombers? But rome experts consider next Government.

cent of the British Army's post- that Integration of all three

tlon in 1040, 1 would take steps

It is impossible to decide what feel for the sea. Resources must These two clements serve as a WOULD

for the reduce to reduce this danger. you

the Government's policy really be found for this promising partial safety-valve →

provoked by the British Forces

WHAT do you think is. The Defence Minister eays development to ensure that the icelings paganda. Germany or build them up?

Our commitment to keep four about the present Gov. one thing, then the Air Minister British remain a great maritime

During the next few weeks divisions in Germany should be ernment's policy on conven- marshals contradict it for him.

'Weakness'

we must hope that Khrushchev honoured. I think that

supersonle Mr tlonal weapons-guns, tanke, I see no need for Sandye, erged on by the Prime signals equipment,

so replacements for the V-bombers

WHAT do you think of will come to realise that if he Minister, damaged Beltaln's good

because I suspect that a proper

the present constitution Persists in pushing his woolo- name when he decided to re

Investment in bombs

which of the Defence Ministry and gical compare to their present Limits Indefinitely ho cannot duce these divisions without

The Government has made an guide themselves to the target would you alter it?

rule out the risk of provoking adequately consulting our Con absolute hash of both the deve from long distances tho 80- I feel there is a great: nect the war which would ent : all tinental Allles,"

bumba-will lopment and provision of con- called "aland-off"

of the for effective central planning and the dreams of Though it was later decided ventional weapons. Colossal sums, muble the useful life

direction # we are to have, a Utopia. to keep more troops there after have been spent with practically present

forced on. Mr The changes

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• I'm voting for the one whose shirt is whitest.”

London Express Bervice. "

on?

arul

V-bombers to

be

all, General de Gaulle was able nothing to show for them, extended until the long-runge real national defence policy. to exploit the British precedent Unliko Mr Bandys we are not reckeis are reliable,

A Communist

President Eisenhower, and Sandys last year sotin to have through him the rest of tho I would immediately review mesmerised by the "great deter- THE PRESENT Govern- weakened the whole arrange- Western Fowers must-realise the situation and "seck, by rent" and the belief in all-or- G

I should certainly want that the threat of wor today In streamlining the Army division nothing war. So we have a ment has plumped for ment.

In some respects an Inspec on modem lines, to enable us to clearer idea of the importance the landbased

Blue Streak to change all this,

no YOU approve of the pruty countercheck, to the honour our agreement,

of conventional' weapons for missile in proference to the

and gresion of ideas, present powers limited conflicts and would see Polaris rocket, which is de-

But before we can plan that the Forces got them.

signed

ned to be fired from functions of the Chief of the

campolga we must learn more (Earl Mount-

about the "noldiers" on the submarines. Do you approve Defence Stall of this decision?

batten)?

other side. How pro they I do not. Elther the Chief of trained? How do they fight? I do not approve of it be- cause I have never heard say the Defence Staff should have How are they rewarded? Then really convincing arguments In real authority or he is not need we can ask how...LENTY - CAT. – De favour of it. If, on review, the ed at all.

---overcome or at least contained,

Dofonca

Obsolete?

to

DO YOU

agree with the present Govern ment polley that the manned

DO YOU consider that the present plans hold any Russian thrust on a line based on the River Weser, are soundly based?

OUT