12
Women
icy peak
dose climb
Madame Claude ko-
gun, expedition Iruder,
From OUR OWN
CORRESPONDENT
London.
Wn
711 four tons of equipment (including Riviera swimsuits), 12 women are on their way to climb one of the toughest mountains in the Himalayas.
The mountain is 26,750ft Cho Oyu, otherwise "The Big Head."
The
Word's
expezifis
first of its kind to tackle such a peak, is now inaking its way slowly uver rough country lu the foothills 2 the m
which is permanently snow- covered od swept by his winds.
The sum is guarded by a vertical leewall, 2,000 feet high.
The final assaul wit prob
ably tre ntade
October.
mid-
First
Venture Of Kind
Meanwhile the women, who include diree from Switzerland, France, Belgium and Nepid, are preparing for a difficult climb
by a rigorous march over 200 alles froin Katmandu, the expital of Nepal.
Already they have gone through monsoon
leech-infested jungle, blazing sunshine,
Final drive
downpours.
Whenever they can, they stay by a mountain stream fo swlen and was their hair.
Then they wear snart swinguits which have been provided
by expedition lemler Claude Kogan, of Nice.
Chaude Is small, fidchoiredt, niged 40, and one of the world's best women mountaineers.
She has already failed in one attempt to
agh.
elimb
Choclimbed in the high Andes and expediton the Alps before he died in Nice
in 1952.
Since then she has aget a Itivlern swimsuit manu- facturing business between ex- peditions,
Oyu during an with a Swiss team, five years
They
til reach more than 25.000 feet before being forced buck by impossible conditions: Claude was the only women in the team and this earned her tale of "highest woman in the world," although she is only Sft tall.
She is the widow of a moun-
with whom she taineer
often
QUOTE
by Mgr R. L. Smith, Banan Catholle service You:
MODERN Bayehologists
nl
mar-
she climbs she Whenever carries a photograph of him with her,
The year after his death she was a member of a party which elimbed Nun Kun, - other Himalayan peak, and she left a copy of his photograph box on the
sealed in stammalt.
"small
No male worry
a Like other companions on the in present expedition she is not worried by the absence of male elhubers to take the responsi- bility.
arc
Hatened to with mare preachers, respect today then but often they are coming paa. derously only to The Kame Conclusions ial were *inted long ago by theologians, noi to mention that supreme practical psychologist, the mother of the Large family.
--by Canon Ronald Preston, in
Fermen
She said the was sure they could all manage and added severcly: "I don't want any- thing to take my companions' minds of the mountain."
or the others, whose ages the mid-thiriles, only overage one bewalled the lack of men. She was pretty Belgian Claudine van der Stratten.
murmured: "It's To ing to be terrible having only women for company for three
who Mumehester Cathedral, referring to clergy- men lying lawful authority:-- I AWFUL authority takes the legal test of what appears reasonable to a reasonable man.
Imonths."
П niece
with
THE CHINA · MAIL,
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 22, 1959.
Heading into a monsoon-that is why the women moun- taineers are wearing raincoats and carrying umbrellas. Ahead of them standı o mountain 26,750ft. high.
On Himalayas without men
organising
the
expedition, pretty, grey-haired Margaret and the only
he Darvall, who is principal of u. return that they should secretarial nekud was
school in Hamp stead, London, and the Countess include the girls.
Dorothen Gravina, mother of She has three grown-up sons, been put in charge of the 170 carrying the porters who Expedition's equipenent,
They dild this willingly, because all three are experiene
limbers and tougher than any European.
Just before they left Kai- maudu a few weeks ago the three British women discovered they were the only ones who were not sterylng their collezi
log to plant on the summit of Cho Oyu, and now the British Embassy in Nepal is arranging to have special ene sent on to them by runner.
The
Eileen
ure
of Paris, and Lou Xooulaz, of Ceneva.
They are all experienced elimbers and have taken part In previous expeditions.
Reporter John Griffiths, now visiting Russia, continues his series....
'Don't measure us by
your yardstick...
THINK once, think twice, think thrice before you write, and do nɔt measure us by your own yardstick," a young Russian intellectual of considerable intelligence warned me as we discussed the differences in our approach to life. "And remember that even in 20 years you would not be able to fathom the soul of Russia."
This was a counsel of perfection I could not keep, but I tried to bear it in mind.
Inevitably my reactions were sometimes coloured by prejudice and irritation. Nevertheless, I found much to admire that I did not expect to. Some of my fallacious beliefs have been exploded and some of my anti- pathies against Communism confirmed.
ger.
If today It takes 20 years or the "rules" laid down by those war is still fraught with dan- more to fathom the Russian in power. soul the Russians have them. solves partly to blame.
it.
an
It is fair to add that in Russla this has been the paraphernalia of almost every one of the trimnics that have deminated
is history.
I did, however, find two ways which the vell could be
Our
philosophy of life pre- chides the aggressive invasion of another country by armies of radio-borne ideas ng burely as it does Invasion by para- do not dissociate troops. We the two.
Our
CREED
propaganda
is more
The ordinary unroasting tourist flounders in bureaucrney and inemelency from the mo- ment he sets foot in Russia. The idea that an Individual should tour at his own whim and organise his own activities pierced-wither by ignoring the Is so alien to the Russian pas- rules entirely and doing what 1 sium for regimentation that it whhed on the assumption that
resolutely
prople would be too surprised Ignored аз
to stop me, or by getting visa strictly speaking only counter- berranton, should cayene voice
arranged by u friend high enough to ignore the rules.
Under both sels of cir cumstances found everyone more than willing to show me Nobody
knows anything what I wanted to see. least of all the compulsory "guide" without whom A Again this seemed to bring me
notorist cannut travel.
tack to the central paradox: the Russians to friendliness and suspicion, the the brink. They desire for peace and the nurture
enmily.
BLIND
Initiative is taboo and per- sonal responsibility anathena
10 almost every member of Intourist the organisation
The reasons this apparent con- responsible for hampering tradiction can be and has been foreign visitors.
faken to such a pitch without spilling over into war seemed to me to be two-fold.
The
DANGER
Had we been content to sub- mit to their ministrations and Margaret Darvell is among the quiet Ineptitude of hotel The fow who have not climbed staffs we should have -sven before out of Europe, though no more of Russka than the inside
ornate she has conquered Mont Blanc. of
End restaurants
simplest and probably The expedition members cathedral-like hotels, the dowdy
most Important is the gathered
19th century aspect
of the In Katmandu August and spent their first few Russia's public architecture and dichotomy that exists in the mind between ideo- weeks organising porters and museums tad galleries crowded Ruian equipment,
with relics of a rather tasteless loglent and physical conflict, past. One cannot avoid the
quite probably suspicion Intentional,
in late
propaganda. But there comes a point where most Western invasion leaders feel that the of ideas in a certain form can only and must be repellet by retaliation, [[erein physical lies the danger.
So far it has
always sulted draw back at cannot, how- ever, understand our attitude, which they feel is a sign, that we must be afraid of ideas in themselves.
They are certain only that they must have peace if they are to prove the superlarity of Socialism and eventually Communism-in material terms. They belleve also that by one.
another, they means and
ereed into every spread their mind in the world.
сол
If the exchange of visits bo- tween Khrushchary and Elsen- hower leads to an understand-
The pattern of development Ing of the different relations of war in the two that has led to Mr Khrushchev hot and cold
the renouncing
Leninist blocs i will be more agreement doctrine that war with the than any capitalist countries Is'inevitable means by which a hot war"might
For the final assault on the mountain they will be wear ing their high niillude mults. In the meatime est they march through Nepal on 1 the path which takes them up Largely Gravina really l 14,000 feet high, and dealings with Intourist 1 soon is as of much significance in be waged.
Miss Darvall and Countess originated the Iden nf the women's expedition two years !I* {
10 Invite and decirled Madame Kogan to be Its leader when she came to London as guest of honour al an Alpine Cab dinner.
She accepted at once and re- the other members, who include Dr Colette le Brug,
Englishwomen are Mrs cruited
Healey, A housewife,
QVEIS.
that
this may
unjustined be
my because of
the Lenditional
A
im Russia's uproach to the Weat of as the extraordinary growth of economle and milltary by her
feet Into valleys, gathered down 2,000
counity their Paris-pression of they are wearing
energy clogged made walking uniforms of blue boundless stacks and pink woollen pull-bureaucracy. This is perhaps power,
after 40 years of a Inevitable regime that has depended for its survival on the suppression of personal Initiative among the
and o bulk of the population blind unihinking adherence to
The sight of this expedition, consteting entirely of "mem sahibs," fasritates the Nepalese who come for miles to see them pass.
CURIOUS
valuable over the
These projceted meetings and It is because we in the West the conferences at Genevi have are fundamentally incapable of been welcomed by ordinary but the welcome is accepting this rigid separation Russions, of physical and Ideological tinged with caution and doubt valid that the cold in view of what the Prost and radio lead him to believe is Western intransiglenee.
warfare 03
PRIVATE LINE by Chapman Pincher
LOSING no time to open fire in what looks like
being the toughest election battle of the century the Socialists launch their first salvo in Private Line, the China Mail Column about power and the men who wield it.
I put Also in the party are the What would Labour do to the Forces? two daughters and There is no need for absolute of Sherpa Tensing Norkay, who the question to Mr George Brown, the man chosen Sby them for Cabinet rank in the key position of Defence Minister. He directs his barrage on Mr the women when they were Duncan Sandys, whose revolutionary moves have
uniformity. There may be per-climbed Everest missible deviations, provided Edmund Hillary. they come within the points on lawful authorily.
He was Hi erral help
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King George VI
to
caused great controversy.
m
As this is a considered state- Services at the top-to provide ment of high policy, Mr Brown's a single unifled Service at the answers are given without com- rank of Brigadier, Air Commo- dore and Rear-Admiral und above-would be a better move. This would enable the Services in keep their separate traditions at the lower levels.
WHAT are your plans, If any, for the integra- tion of the Services?
Mr Brown: At first sight the
complete integration of the Air Force
We would set up a small and
invites Labour's opening salvo: HOW THEIR
THEIR DEFENCE
CHIEF WOULD GIVE
THE FORCES A SHAKE-UP
George
Brown
+1
ANSWERS THE QUESTIONS
and
therefore
and export After two recent visits to this, bomber la obsolescent
in
contradicts it or the
Its the ignorance of the peoples of the two blocs about is the second each other that
and more complex factor in the present paradox, Nor is it by Eny means all on one side.
In both instances it makes the people more plastic in the hands of demagogues; the difference being in the responsibility and purpose of the respective de- magogues and their methods.
Nevertheless, a 'glant curiosity stalks abroad in the Soviet Union today. Every Western vatter 19 questioned with urgent and compelling eagerness.
The centre of attraction in our case was cur Vauxhall Cresta; which represented for them the epitome of Western civilation.
How
"How fast did go? many cylinders? What miles per gallon?" And then, having satisfied themselves as to ita
position proves to be as I sus-technical excellence, the more relevent questions: "War. It pect, I would reverse it.
mine? How many ears in your country?
How much did it Atom-ships
slow
THE GOVERNMENT
вестя 10 be extremely
cost?"
IDEAS
in getting to serious work on atomic propulsion
There comes a point, so the for merchant ships. Do you think the project should be advertisers tell us, when a cam- paign provokes sales resistance, and coupled speeded up?
with Russlan Definitely. It almost looks 85
curiosity is Д surprisingly though the present Ministers
cynical dismissal of propaganda, have lost the traditional British Rusion as well as American.
air nation.
Pro-
and Navy would seen powerful committee of people sensible as their main functions with experience
to consider all the area I believe that the present that there should are the same to deliver the knowledge
the British be no investment in a super deterrent and Transport and possibilities. In my view some arrangements put support the Army.
measure of integration must be Forces in considerable jeopardy. Bonie bomber to replace the achieved in the lifetime of the It is a situation terribly reminis
V-bombers? But rome experts consider next Government.
cent of the British Army's post- that Integration of all three
tlon in 1040, 1 would take steps
It is impossible to decide what feel for the sea. Resources must These two clements serve as a WOULD
for the reduce to reduce this danger. you
the Government's policy really be found for this promising partial safety-valve →
provoked by the British Forces
WHAT do you think is. The Defence Minister eays development to ensure that the icelings paganda. Germany or build them up?
Our commitment to keep four about the present Gov. one thing, then the Air Minister British remain a great maritime
During the next few weeks divisions in Germany should be ernment's policy on conven- marshals contradict it for him.
'Weakness'
we must hope that Khrushchev honoured. I think that
supersonle Mr tlonal weapons-guns, tanke, I see no need for Sandye, erged on by the Prime signals equipment,
so replacements for the V-bombers
WHAT do you think of will come to realise that if he Minister, damaged Beltaln's good
because I suspect that a proper
the present constitution Persists in pushing his woolo- name when he decided to re
Investment in bombs
which of the Defence Ministry and gical compare to their present Limits Indefinitely ho cannot duce these divisions without
The Government has made an guide themselves to the target would you alter it?
rule out the risk of provoking adequately consulting our Con absolute hash of both the deve from long distances tho 80- I feel there is a great: nect the war which would ent : all tinental Allles,"
bumba-will lopment and provision of con- called "aland-off"
of the for effective central planning and the dreams of Though it was later decided ventional weapons. Colossal sums, muble the useful life
direction # we are to have, a Utopia. to keep more troops there after have been spent with practically present
forced on. Mr The changes
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• I'm voting for the one whose shirt is whitest.”
London Express Bervice. "
on?
arul
V-bombers to
be
all, General de Gaulle was able nothing to show for them, extended until the long-runge real national defence policy. to exploit the British precedent Unliko Mr Bandys we are not reckeis are reliable,
A Communist
President Eisenhower, and Sandys last year sotin to have through him the rest of tho I would immediately review mesmerised by the "great deter- THE PRESENT Govern- weakened the whole arrange- Western Fowers must-realise the situation and "seck, by rent" and the belief in all-or- G
I should certainly want that the threat of wor today In streamlining the Army division nothing war. So we have a ment has plumped for ment.
In some respects an Inspec on modem lines, to enable us to clearer idea of the importance the landbased
Blue Streak to change all this,
no YOU approve of the pruty countercheck, to the honour our agreement,
of conventional' weapons for missile in proference to the
and gresion of ideas, present powers limited conflicts and would see Polaris rocket, which is de-
But before we can plan that the Forces got them.
signed
ned to be fired from functions of the Chief of the
campolga we must learn more (Earl Mount-
about the "noldiers" on the submarines. Do you approve Defence Stall of this decision?
batten)?
other side. How pro they I do not. Elther the Chief of trained? How do they fight? I do not approve of it be- cause I have never heard say the Defence Staff should have How are they rewarded? Then really convincing arguments In real authority or he is not need we can ask how...LENTY - CAT. – De favour of it. If, on review, the ed at all.
---overcome or at least contained,
Dofonca
Obsolete?
to
DO YOU
agree with the present Govern ment polley that the manned
DO YOU consider that the present plans hold any Russian thrust on a line based on the River Weser, are soundly based?
OUT