1956-07-14 — Page 7

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THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, JULY 14, 1956.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

Striking Creations Produced

Designers Of The Future

By HAZEL MEYRICK

bench

sult

for

estance was blasted drawn the front, ne side red, une green:

14* and

reversed, elquveboard fashion, for the

Others consisted of treeTS. fabric strung together litige diamond-shaped pleves of

hurt med Insjon.

materials--- London. HANDFUL of girl who have designs 471 Britain' dress trade Iushion shurients ut the Royal College of Art--gave a dress show for the Queen Mother in London #1 fort. night go. The parade di

for eluded clothes possible occasion, with

nevent on sportswear.

Every

an

un

Whether they were suffering from shortage of material we dull never knew.

since Bist West End shoppers are flocking It buy expensive Italt play clothes. skilfully designed to Bucke their wearers look like SLI urchina. thes Hudest must be on the if track. patchwile

Some of the students we entered to be auftreinst from split pers

analitics, for a pod many

}

1 were marle

150

[1

Cockfall shoe is made in baby leopard-lo

leather straps.

S9

young

right

with

narrow

By Bally of Switzerland.

By

scarlet

One of the show's most out-

14:1

wus New standing

Dlanc More. She Zealander made a

crazy cycling outfit calculated to and any motorist Jersey up the kerb

and a loose jacket, plus-fours over a urry and white stripedi impede swokter und long grey เพ white striped eveling socks Scarcely less exotic to much.

molest-looking was her

Vic- torlan bathing dress la mauve

Jersey

stolic Wool

coyly through with white ribbon

TO RAISE EYEROWS

Varenna Marshall proceedin televiewing MASTE

orduroyal-ter

scarlet Toreador

w

pants edged with what looked Suspiciously

lampshade fringing. Also enleulated to ral eyebrows were the bright green and Lin นุช 3) tions she made with long legs Quarter length bright by

toppret

--

etton karl

Plainer. every-dry rielber were well styled and well made but what a dreary rolours! With

of

An evening shoe in transparent vinyllte edged with gold By Bally of Switzerland. piping has a scaffolding heel.

Live year's mosl promising My favourites were cock tall student, Varenna Marshall, and shops which glittered mysteri- i will use this to visit the ously the wearer passed by couture collections in Paris. the secret was shoc-string of humanto sandwiched between the heel and the upper.

Alterations Specialist Occupies

A Unique Fashion Field

New York.

THEN fashion carcers

Ware the topic of discus-

sion, designing and dress- making cone first to mind as the top "creative" jobs. But there are other kinds of creativity.

Gertrude Frankel's flourishing business might well bo an inspiration for the talented girl who's looking for h fashion niche for herself.

Mrs

Frankel's !pecialty? Creative alterations.

all

She has a small shop on New York's Christopher Street, call- ed Alterations Centre, and it really is a centre. Women from

the city over

bring their clothes to her for everything from little nips and tucks that their figures require for it to complete restyling.

an

EXPERT'S EXPERT

ת!

their

chance to

Mrs Frankel is something of On the gamut of the enlogge

expert's expert. Fushkon editors from many palette, they plumpest for bele

New York

or pats gery CVITY tim,

newspapers are steady custom- the dullnes of the

Dropite bitter complaints from ers, staffers from Women's Wear colouring

long-suffering British Women Daily. the gurment industry speiled the effect of the clothes.

and trade Some

dresses were

sher heels got narrower of the

paper,

bring by accompanki

narrower as the years go wonderful stoles, by

clothes, and top designer Adele Escaliers on London's nandwoven by the textile school

under- Simpson once brought in on In vivid jewel colours.

ground rallway are littered with entire wardrobe, when her own the remains of metal heel tips, workroom staff was too busy to where angry parvengers have do the job, Mrs Eleanor Hoose-

wodged between the

also been a customer. been groovea on the stair-treads and Mrs Frankel took time off re- have had to be rescued.

cently from 3 busy day of Attings to talk about her work. "People often

she ask me," said, "if I have any ambition to Spindle heels on shoes of all make new clothes. I tell them prices tend to snap after a few I'd never change. This is so im- wearings, and shoe repairers portant.

"I think," she said, "that I'm refuse to touch them. But tho

Altering In New York, fashion for heels

size of alone

them is knitting-needles goes relentless clothes, remaking

CRAZY FOOTWEAR

Russell and Bromley, a Lon- don shoe store which has always been adicted to sensible, stald shoe styles showed recently the craziest collection

of footwear I've seen for a long time. Others were decoratext with

There were shoes for dancing hand-made jewellery and many were

topped by professional- with skeleton heels a mere

them looking hæls, one of

frinework of metal which Just about supportext the Wear deep-ret duche was designed by

Beatrix

oriental Hohenlohe, and Princess

gold-embossed nicer of the Duke of Edinburgh, harem shoes with spindle heels.

There who taking a year's course in

low-cut cocktail hund-blocked fashion design.

pumpa in wholeytle

deerskin designer anese Tup

and moside

Frederick

who

pair Starke,

has printed calf, and one

ol mules of practically always taken an interest in the cocktail

plastic trimmed a transparent fashion school, has awarded travelling fashion scholarship to with a ginnt diamante bow.

were

འ

THE AUTUMN SILHOUETTE IS

SOFT AND BLOUSED

By MARIE FONTAINE

-

by

of

09

place by a low-placed half-belt. much is spoken and

Another model, this time written about Paris

length bolero and full skirt has fashion and the smartness

LEMPEREUR, is in dark brown of one

these rey in black and white finely- BASTA

and bottle green woollen plaid. embles in brown and belge in of Fresh women that

This has a wide one a kind word.

in which the three It is worn over a fitted waist- tencie to imaginat the ansert i bond at the frent from paid

bune ol the rter-length coat is trimmed the same fabric. have a wal: 1 to t majority

them "[

favoured) As regards fabrles of Persian an over-collar Sound anci

high-fastening v JL models by Digr or other

fullness to m'

LEMPEREUR by the French wholesalers, wool while Textire with sight

cloths tweed ts black and white

with a quite heavy and famous couturiers in their ve emphasis to the bust.

appearance are rustle in which a high- ther another Rut, of course, wardrobes,

Plain shouth dresses are often

Flexl effect is achieved on chosen for dresses as well

Jackets and very few of them can afford

shortened accompanied by matchlug % Or

high- coat by means of a to how such clothes, and it is 1th length crôts such the belt at the back, which Herringbone patterns and large

checks and redi in taric

plaids andr the wholesale ensemble largely to

sul higher at the front. house that they owe their bronze

CHASSENG and reputation or chic.

wool fabric a. Kry ciars CATTECNO. The latter con- Teds of a tin dress with a all line which is being promote neckline

back 2425

boll the French wholesalers by Full and blou•: d

For the coming ouluinn,

مودا

the

*

coats

Are very Cheviot tweeds аго

SPINDLE HEELS

the

Job must dressmakers Bren't Now solid aluminium heels enthusiastic about. I enjoy do

arang it, and decided to specialise

Wo

ly on

have arrived which, nssured, will stand any amount in . It's really creative

But

we are

the

of simin and won't snap.

faced still

with problem of what to do when

THE FRESH TOUCH

Mrs Frankel may be eniled stuck in a pavement grating upon in the course of a day to Does one hobble away on one lengthen 0 waist, raine a de-

shoe only, call the fire brigade to help, or risk ruining the shoe by wrenching it out?

Do's and don'ts to keep your

weight down

H

colletage,

design a new collar line Lor 10 dress, reshape Jacket. Her ingenuity is taxed to the full sometimes to find 60 út ways to expand a dress with almost no fabric to work with, "I love pattern work," she Bays. "It's almost like making matter of course mosales." As a she keeps up with dashlon-her customers rely on her sense of style

their iceep

ward robes up

to date. And she's of ideas for the fresh,

that fashionable touch

wik transform a tired old dress into an advance model

to

"Actually," says Mrs Frankef "there are very few women who

can

wool plaid by MARIE The coat in a similar ensemed for suits with 1 TERE are ten simple do's com be atted perfectly in ready

AL

Labs

loos are

*1

soft

In by MAX MOZES in black and

has string-colour tweed gathery let in at the back.

black-bet

packets,

the

and don'ts

you

can

made clothes.

At least a little

Jackets and for easily follow to help keep rip in at the neckline or dart in

In

your weight down.

You

the back, is

is almost always peces. mry to maire the dress eally Some customers bring in every thing they

buy to be checked

perfect At "After a number of yeary,"

mays Mrs Frankel, "I know y

one always needs the wats fine

dresses while soft jerseys

find broadt- satin-faced,

very cloths are ideal for interpreting

bendency.

As I have so often told you, new supple is bultoning on either side at the Softness at neckline

Green, whether bronze, sorrel

probably me overweight The return of fullness at the

willow, is the back and deeper armholes mark or

prevailing simply because you eat more the wast is obtained by bluused the

three-quarter coat with

the ready-to-wear calories than your body needs. $11 effects often drawn

The colour and buttoned the new line for topcoats. Collar leather bei de cue in se:f-fubriz.

fullness often takes the form of collections, but there are touches The only way to cure this situa customer's figures know that 01) The wifs and Softness at the backs of conts recalling the belt on the dress

soft rolled pleat at either side of violet, dark red bright red tion is to cut down on what you gains fullness.

Shorter-th-long coats with the back such as in a coat by and stained glass blue also.

in fancy the more claaste range their own matching skirts hav BAILLIE-HEMCEY Bloused backs are the prin-

black and white

burnit herringbone colours, Kainel prominence in the eur- cipal ftatures in the WEBE

rent

collection. Tweed where they are held wholesale collection. For Instner, Jarket in a thick, hazel-brown woul with

back-dipping collarline and amitted front full and bloused at the back the to gather which begin just

A match- above the watsline,

is

ing dress is bloused all proudl the waistline which is, however, defined by a narrow band.

appears

The bloused back ogain, both above and below

cont

and

#

the firmly-belled wolst, in

In blue-green diagonal weave wool by

LEM- PEREUR, and also

bry dree of lightweight periwinkle blue wool from the same house, In the latter case, the bloused effect continues into a gathered floating panel below the waist, reaching to the hem.

JACQUELINE MONNIN covers up a low-necked sheath dresh of white wool jersey with sleeveless bolero which is gathered all the way round both

n

at the top and the hem.

Many sulla are belted at tho waist. Some are merely half- belts whenESS olhers encircle the waist and ara

a pok- fabric, such as on a model in

tweed black and

by frey GATTEGNO; herd it holds In the slight fullness of the high- buttoning Jacket. BASTA, on the other hand,

narrow

favours a

leather belt on a wool sult of small black and brown checks

One of two alternatives to a bloted offect on dresson in a high-waisted effect which does not levothe natural waistline unmarked. Typical of this is a slim-skirted

chestmil

in hazel predominate.

In

cat.

of

and

1. BASTA: The slightly cut-away line of the peplum of the straight-out jacket is the main feature of this sult in bronss green wool, which is worn under loose-niting speckled green tweed cont. 2. LEMPEREURSîn & periwinkis-blue lightweight woollen fabric, Mils collarless, button-through dress has a bodice with a softly-bloused back that continues into s rathered panel in the skirt. 3. GATTEGNO: The belted wait is widen here in charcok xrey Cheviot tweed trimmed, with for collke and low-placed buttoned pockels, in MONNIN: The Appearance of this decollete showth dress in fiue white, wool, is completely transformed by the short, sloevelem koloro; this is rathored all round at the nook and mi thu 'hem 5. WEBE: The now Hine In French wholesale topcoats, with the return of the deep armhole and immenso fullness falling. In soft folds on either side at the back, is shown here

In this model li bhas and black herringbone tweed."

let out a little; another always Being overweight is a definite must have the shoulders raised.

You have to understand health hazardı.

their idiosyn work harder than the average cracies."

And every customer,

thinks that she.

person to perform any task, she observed, And the bulk of this additional and she alone has the problem work must be performed by figure your heart.

Heart disease, no matter what

its cause, is aggravated by over

weight

Besides, At your are greatly overweight, you are more likely

MUCH IN DEMAND · --------------་་་་--་**

Originally

Mcs

a milliner, Frankel started thinking En

of alterations terms to develop high blood pressure, when the New Look

hemlines suddenly diabetes and other diseases of Faceli the blood and kidneys.

ACCIDENT-PRONE

You are more prone accidents and, CXCCESS

havoc to

bad

300

ways

in 1940, brought down

and

ROLEX

Page

It's Smart to keep kissable

with

Flame-Glo

Available at all leading Stores.

out yolks

the same

and her first caid Mrs problem to year in bústiess was devoted

Just fatigue,

letting down you might lack poise, and, most [kemgin thinking up in-

but important of all, you probably genious

10% piece are shortening your lie. akcirts with insets, bipline

For a good "reducing diet, and hemline trim. (A few years consult your doctor. Meanwhile, later, she was taking them all you can follow these

shoulders who andther b

again.) Cutting down, padded Lions;

WOMAN

No between-meal socks. in the years when the natural TELS means no alcoholle bever shoulder line replaced the over- ágen pretzels potato chips, stuffed one, and all is. Ro- candy or similar foods which placing back zippers with side have a high calorie value but ones in another alteration that's relatively little food value.

much

in demand by 2-Don't use sugar on your who can't соро with the back fruit dishes or in fruit juices.

closings dressing Right now the bidi alteration Der use salod mayonnaise on sandwiches problem is taking in clothes to

newly.

Dgures. slimmed "Everybody is on diet Bite

observes.

"And they

much Don't eat gravy and sweat are losing weight-50

that none of their clothes fit." Broil or bake foods Instood

Last year Me Frankel de- of trying them.

ckled to give up her business. Trim most of the fat off would be less taxing. The last

Selling dresses,” she reasoned,

|your ment..

mooth the B-Don't use fat no sensoning ed exactly

Jade Vinegar or lemon on At

instend of restila prankel

dressings.

Filem of foodistuk

the

phono kept ringing customers

agomised flows or old

Don't was honey or whip mally made bar change her ped cream...

10--Don't use cream or lugar decision.

in coffee or tom

Marilyn Merce

Grill never give it up now !! she says. "I realised. M's what I like to do and there's so much inking what you doi

Sole Agents:

cosmetics

Flami Glo

LIQUID ROUGE

FLAME-GLO]

Kissable Look

· LIQUID MAKE-UP

WITH SAMBANN APRICOT ROSE

SARSWATI TRADING CORPORATION 1307, Wing On Life Building

Des Voeux Road,

Colds

Even the slightest cold Is to be feared Do not let it spread! Defeat it from the stort by taking 1 or 2 CAFASPINS!

CAFASPIN

*** Tel. 39194.