A
THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, JULY 14, 1956.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
Striking Creations Produced
Designers Of The Future
By HAZEL MEYRICK
bench
sult
for
estance was blasted drawn the front, ne side red, une green:
14* and
reversed, elquveboard fashion, for the
Others consisted of treeTS. fabric strung together litige diamond-shaped pleves of
hurt med Insjon.
materials--- London. HANDFUL of girl who have designs 471 Britain' dress trade Iushion shurients ut the Royal College of Art--gave a dress show for the Queen Mother in London #1 fort. night go. The parade di
for eluded clothes possible occasion, with
nevent on sportswear.
Every
an
un
Whether they were suffering from shortage of material we dull never knew.
since Bist West End shoppers are flocking It buy expensive Italt play clothes. skilfully designed to Bucke their wearers look like SLI urchina. thes Hudest must be on the if track. patchwile
Some of the students we entered to be auftreinst from split pers
analitics, for a pod many
}
1 were marle
150
[1
Cockfall shoe is made in baby leopard-lo
leather straps.
S9
young
right
with
narrow
By Bally of Switzerland.
By
scarlet
One of the show's most out-
14:1
wus New standing
Dlanc More. She Zealander made a
crazy cycling outfit calculated to and any motorist Jersey up the kerb
and a loose jacket, plus-fours over a urry and white stripedi impede swokter und long grey เพ white striped eveling socks Scarcely less exotic to much.
molest-looking was her
Vic- torlan bathing dress la mauve
Jersey
stolic Wool
coyly through with white ribbon
TO RAISE EYEROWS
Varenna Marshall proceedin televiewing MASTE
orduroyal-ter
scarlet Toreador
w
pants edged with what looked Suspiciously
lampshade fringing. Also enleulated to ral eyebrows were the bright green and Lin นุช 3) tions she made with long legs Quarter length bright by
toppret
--
etton karl
Plainer. every-dry rielber were well styled and well made but what a dreary rolours! With
of
An evening shoe in transparent vinyllte edged with gold By Bally of Switzerland. piping has a scaffolding heel.
Live year's mosl promising My favourites were cock tall student, Varenna Marshall, and shops which glittered mysteri- i will use this to visit the ously the wearer passed by couture collections in Paris. the secret was shoc-string of humanto sandwiched between the heel and the upper.
Alterations Specialist Occupies
A Unique Fashion Field
New York.
THEN fashion carcers
Ware the topic of discus-
sion, designing and dress- making cone first to mind as the top "creative" jobs. But there are other kinds of creativity.
Gertrude Frankel's flourishing business might well bo an inspiration for the talented girl who's looking for h fashion niche for herself.
Mrs
Frankel's !pecialty? Creative alterations.
all
She has a small shop on New York's Christopher Street, call- ed Alterations Centre, and it really is a centre. Women from
the city over
bring their clothes to her for everything from little nips and tucks that their figures require for it to complete restyling.
an
EXPERT'S EXPERT
ת!
their
chance to
Mrs Frankel is something of On the gamut of the enlogge
expert's expert. Fushkon editors from many palette, they plumpest for bele
New York
or pats gery CVITY tim,
newspapers are steady custom- the dullnes of the
Dropite bitter complaints from ers, staffers from Women's Wear colouring
long-suffering British Women Daily. the gurment industry speiled the effect of the clothes.
and trade Some
dresses were
sher heels got narrower of the
paper,
bring by accompanki
narrower as the years go wonderful stoles, by
clothes, and top designer Adele Escaliers on London's nandwoven by the textile school
under- Simpson once brought in on In vivid jewel colours.
ground rallway are littered with entire wardrobe, when her own the remains of metal heel tips, workroom staff was too busy to where angry parvengers have do the job, Mrs Eleanor Hoose-
wodged between the
also been a customer. been groovea on the stair-treads and Mrs Frankel took time off re- have had to be rescued.
cently from 3 busy day of Attings to talk about her work. "People often
she ask me," said, "if I have any ambition to Spindle heels on shoes of all make new clothes. I tell them prices tend to snap after a few I'd never change. This is so im- wearings, and shoe repairers portant.
"I think," she said, "that I'm refuse to touch them. But tho
Altering In New York, fashion for heels
size of alone
them is knitting-needles goes relentless clothes, remaking
CRAZY FOOTWEAR
Russell and Bromley, a Lon- don shoe store which has always been adicted to sensible, stald shoe styles showed recently the craziest collection
of footwear I've seen for a long time. Others were decoratext with
There were shoes for dancing hand-made jewellery and many were
topped by professional- with skeleton heels a mere
them looking hæls, one of
frinework of metal which Just about supportext the Wear deep-ret duche was designed by
Beatrix
oriental Hohenlohe, and Princess
gold-embossed nicer of the Duke of Edinburgh, harem shoes with spindle heels.
There who taking a year's course in
low-cut cocktail hund-blocked fashion design.
pumpa in wholeytle
deerskin designer anese Tup
and moside
Frederick
who
pair Starke,
has printed calf, and one
ol mules of practically always taken an interest in the cocktail
plastic trimmed a transparent fashion school, has awarded travelling fashion scholarship to with a ginnt diamante bow.
were
འ
THE AUTUMN SILHOUETTE IS
SOFT AND BLOUSED
By MARIE FONTAINE
-
by
of
09
place by a low-placed half-belt. much is spoken and
Another model, this time written about Paris
length bolero and full skirt has fashion and the smartness
LEMPEREUR, is in dark brown of one
these rey in black and white finely- BASTA
and bottle green woollen plaid. embles in brown and belge in of Fresh women that
This has a wide one a kind word.
in which the three It is worn over a fitted waist- tencie to imaginat the ansert i bond at the frent from paid
bune ol the rter-length coat is trimmed the same fabric. have a wal: 1 to t majority
them "[
favoured) As regards fabrles of Persian an over-collar Sound anci
high-fastening v JL models by Digr or other
fullness to m'
LEMPEREUR by the French wholesalers, wool while Textire with sight
cloths tweed ts black and white
with a quite heavy and famous couturiers in their ve emphasis to the bust.
appearance are rustle in which a high- ther another Rut, of course, wardrobes,
Plain shouth dresses are often
Flexl effect is achieved on chosen for dresses as well
Jackets and very few of them can afford
shortened accompanied by matchlug % Or
high- coat by means of a to how such clothes, and it is 1th length crôts such the belt at the back, which Herringbone patterns and large
checks and redi in taric
plaids andr the wholesale ensemble largely to
sul higher at the front. house that they owe their bronze
CHASSENG and reputation or chic.
wool fabric a. Kry ciars CATTECNO. The latter con- Teds of a tin dress with a all line which is being promote neckline
back 2425
boll the French wholesalers by Full and blou•: d
For the coming ouluinn,
مودا
the
*
coats
Are very Cheviot tweeds аго
SPINDLE HEELS
the
Job must dressmakers Bren't Now solid aluminium heels enthusiastic about. I enjoy do
arang it, and decided to specialise
Wo
ly on
have arrived which, nssured, will stand any amount in . It's really creative
But
we are
the
of simin and won't snap.
faced still
with problem of what to do when
THE FRESH TOUCH
Mrs Frankel may be eniled stuck in a pavement grating upon in the course of a day to Does one hobble away on one lengthen 0 waist, raine a de-
shoe only, call the fire brigade to help, or risk ruining the shoe by wrenching it out?
Do's and don'ts to keep your
weight down
H
colletage,
design a new collar line Lor 10 dress, reshape Jacket. Her ingenuity is taxed to the full sometimes to find 60 út ways to expand a dress with almost no fabric to work with, "I love pattern work," she Bays. "It's almost like making matter of course mosales." As a she keeps up with dashlon-her customers rely on her sense of style
their iceep
ward robes up
to date. And she's of ideas for the fresh,
that fashionable touch
wik transform a tired old dress into an advance model
to
"Actually," says Mrs Frankef "there are very few women who
can
wool plaid by MARIE The coat in a similar ensemed for suits with 1 TERE are ten simple do's com be atted perfectly in ready
AL
Labs
loos are
*1
soft
In by MAX MOZES in black and
has string-colour tweed gathery let in at the back.
black-bet
packets,
the
and don'ts
you
can
made clothes.
At least a little
Jackets and for easily follow to help keep rip in at the neckline or dart in
In
your weight down.
You
the back, is
is almost always peces. mry to maire the dress eally Some customers bring in every thing they
buy to be checked
perfect At "After a number of yeary,"
mays Mrs Frankel, "I know y
one always needs the wats fine
dresses while soft jerseys
find broadt- satin-faced,
very cloths are ideal for interpreting
bendency.
As I have so often told you, new supple is bultoning on either side at the Softness at neckline
Green, whether bronze, sorrel
probably me overweight The return of fullness at the
willow, is the back and deeper armholes mark or
prevailing simply because you eat more the wast is obtained by bluused the
three-quarter coat with
the ready-to-wear calories than your body needs. $11 effects often drawn
The colour and buttoned the new line for topcoats. Collar leather bei de cue in se:f-fubriz.
fullness often takes the form of collections, but there are touches The only way to cure this situa customer's figures know that 01) The wifs and Softness at the backs of conts recalling the belt on the dress
soft rolled pleat at either side of violet, dark red bright red tion is to cut down on what you gains fullness.
Shorter-th-long coats with the back such as in a coat by and stained glass blue also.
in fancy the more claaste range their own matching skirts hav BAILLIE-HEMCEY Bloused backs are the prin-
black and white
burnit herringbone colours, Kainel prominence in the eur- cipal ftatures in the WEBE
rent
collection. Tweed where they are held wholesale collection. For Instner, Jarket in a thick, hazel-brown woul with
back-dipping collarline and amitted front full and bloused at the back the to gather which begin just
A match- above the watsline,
is
ing dress is bloused all proudl the waistline which is, however, defined by a narrow band.
appears
The bloused back ogain, both above and below
cont
and
#
the firmly-belled wolst, in
In blue-green diagonal weave wool by
LEM- PEREUR, and also
bry dree of lightweight periwinkle blue wool from the same house, In the latter case, the bloused effect continues into a gathered floating panel below the waist, reaching to the hem.
JACQUELINE MONNIN covers up a low-necked sheath dresh of white wool jersey with sleeveless bolero which is gathered all the way round both
n
at the top and the hem.
Many sulla are belted at tho waist. Some are merely half- belts whenESS olhers encircle the waist and ara
a pok- fabric, such as on a model in
tweed black and
by frey GATTEGNO; herd it holds In the slight fullness of the high- buttoning Jacket. BASTA, on the other hand,
narrow
favours a
leather belt on a wool sult of small black and brown checks
One of two alternatives to a bloted offect on dresson in a high-waisted effect which does not levothe natural waistline unmarked. Typical of this is a slim-skirted
chestmil
in hazel predominate.
In
cat.
of
and
1. BASTA: The slightly cut-away line of the peplum of the straight-out jacket is the main feature of this sult in bronss green wool, which is worn under loose-niting speckled green tweed cont. 2. LEMPEREURSîn & periwinkis-blue lightweight woollen fabric, Mils collarless, button-through dress has a bodice with a softly-bloused back that continues into s rathered panel in the skirt. 3. GATTEGNO: The belted wait is widen here in charcok xrey Cheviot tweed trimmed, with for collke and low-placed buttoned pockels, in MONNIN: The Appearance of this decollete showth dress in fiue white, wool, is completely transformed by the short, sloevelem koloro; this is rathored all round at the nook and mi thu 'hem 5. WEBE: The now Hine In French wholesale topcoats, with the return of the deep armhole and immenso fullness falling. In soft folds on either side at the back, is shown here
In this model li bhas and black herringbone tweed."
let out a little; another always Being overweight is a definite must have the shoulders raised.
You have to understand health hazardı.
their idiosyn work harder than the average cracies."
And every customer,
thinks that she.
person to perform any task, she observed, And the bulk of this additional and she alone has the problem work must be performed by figure your heart.
Heart disease, no matter what
its cause, is aggravated by over
weight
Besides, At your are greatly overweight, you are more likely
MUCH IN DEMAND · --------------་་་་--་**
Originally
Mcs
a milliner, Frankel started thinking En
of alterations terms to develop high blood pressure, when the New Look
hemlines suddenly diabetes and other diseases of Faceli the blood and kidneys.
ACCIDENT-PRONE
You are more prone accidents and, CXCCESS
havoc to
bad
300
ways
in 1940, brought down
and
ROLEX
Page
It's Smart to keep kissable
with
Flame-Glo
Available at all leading Stores.
out yolks
the same
and her first caid Mrs problem to year in bústiess was devoted
Just fatigue,
letting down you might lack poise, and, most [kemgin thinking up in-
but important of all, you probably genious
10% piece are shortening your lie. akcirts with insets, bipline
For a good "reducing diet, and hemline trim. (A few years consult your doctor. Meanwhile, later, she was taking them all you can follow these
shoulders who andther b
again.) Cutting down, padded Lions;
WOMAN
No between-meal socks. in the years when the natural TELS means no alcoholle bever shoulder line replaced the over- ágen pretzels potato chips, stuffed one, and all is. Ro- candy or similar foods which placing back zippers with side have a high calorie value but ones in another alteration that's relatively little food value.
much
in demand by 2-Don't use sugar on your who can't соро with the back fruit dishes or in fruit juices.
closings dressing Right now the bidi alteration Der use salod mayonnaise on sandwiches problem is taking in clothes to
newly.
Dgures. slimmed "Everybody is on diet Bite
observes.
"And they
much Don't eat gravy and sweat are losing weight-50
that none of their clothes fit." Broil or bake foods Instood
Last year Me Frankel de- of trying them.
ckled to give up her business. Trim most of the fat off would be less taxing. The last
Selling dresses,” she reasoned,
|your ment..
mooth the B-Don't use fat no sensoning ed exactly
Jade Vinegar or lemon on At
instend of restila prankel
dressings.
Filem of foodistuk
the
phono kept ringing customers
agomised flows or old
Don't was honey or whip mally made bar change her ped cream...
10--Don't use cream or lugar decision.
in coffee or tom
Marilyn Merce
Grill never give it up now !! she says. "I realised. M's what I like to do and there's so much inking what you doi
Sole Agents:
cosmetics
Flami Glo
LIQUID ROUGE
FLAME-GLO]
Kissable Look
· LIQUID MAKE-UP
WITH SAMBANN APRICOT ROSE
SARSWATI TRADING CORPORATION 1307, Wing On Life Building
Des Voeux Road,
Colds
Even the slightest cold Is to be feared Do not let it spread! Defeat it from the stort by taking 1 or 2 CAFASPINS!
CAFASPIN
*** Tel. 39194.