1955-08-06 — Page 9

THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, AUGUST 4, 1955.

WEEK-END WOMANSENSE

Hartnell Forsakes Duchesses for Vamps

TORMAN HARTNELL, Queen's dress-

NORMAN

muker. has forsaken the duchesses for the vamps. And, behold, the IT GIRL is reborn.

Hartnell, at 54, went back at his fashion show to the world in its 'twenties-to the world when Hartnell was in his twenties.

The world of "The Boy Friend"; the world before embroidered crinoline, tulle. and roses; the world in which Clara Bow pouted: the world itt which girls flounced.

Hartnell has tossed away years of satin and embroi derles for slinky black

velvet.

•

For slit skirts, ..

jersey

For seductive dresses, skin tight to the knees, and then flaring into

a fron-frou of frilles.

Hartnell showed last werk his salon in Bruton collection of

Street, W., ♫

glittering him-star creations

that gould hardly be

for garden parties.

SHOCKS AND

worn

Then his names shocked.

Bust

The startling truth about

the modern woman's figure

35 ins.

Waist 25 ins.

Hips,

371 ins.

"Maria Walewska" -re- calling the Garbo film of Napoleon's

Warsaw

mis-

Feet

tress.

10 ins.

This the dress] was a steel- faille, fight atting and Hrey

Having into a trumpet-line skirt.

"Violettes Imperiales" 10-

enlling the operella

Jaundress

who

Napoleon well.

about 0

also knew

1

This [the drean] was a violet velveteen worn with an amethyst and diamond necklace.

"The Fruitful Vine"-this in que satin, with bunches blue pearl grapes on the bodice.

And even "Dark Doings." You guessed? A sheath of black erepe with an enormous frill of bluck velvet below the knees.

The models were stim. They had a wobble-hip wolk. They

Height

5 ft. 3 ins.

THE NEW FACTOR

spring

THIS is the new

nese

look and the measurements

of the averago modern girl.

And This in thea пси phrase which today entera the vocabulary of the clothes designer. the studens of human anatomy, and the fashion- conscious woman berkelfi

spring.

And what is 17 flip spring is the difference in Inches between the hip measurement the waist measure- ment, Il defines the abruptness with which the hips spring out from the waist.

It's The Scimitar Line...

By The Man Who Is Not Afraid

ICHAEL, a 40-year-old

Mirishman, proved him

had lots of charcoal around the self the Man Who Is Not

eyes.

Afraid of Paris at

last

This, I suggested to Hartnell, week's London fashion

"It's the shows.

was the SLINKY LINE. "Of course it is," he said.

new

Hartnell line and it will

o on for ever."

-COMPROMISE

But he has compromised for

Instead of saying "Wait and see what Paris does," he presented a bold new line.

It is the Scimitar Line.

the debutantes, A few of his Suits wide at the shoulders,

dresses were vagant.

typically extra-belted round the hips, and

dresses, re- Billowing inlla embroidered Inces, rows and rows of Astot frilis, but even

things called

SHE'S not so SLENDER AS HER MOTHER WAS...

The demand for an

tain, surveys show. Women tend to be smaller and stockier in Wales and Scotland. London 11. has more then its fair share of

tall women.

Before the war the most WITH all the aid of slim-

ming pille and reducing popular sizo of stocking was dicts the modern girl is not to B. Now this 91⁄2 to 10, as slim as her mother was stocking is stendly Increase when she was young.

and now makes up 7 percent of the sales of the biggest stock- ing firm,

She is considerably broader in the hips, waist and bust, excord- ing to facts made available recently.

Betwear the pigo of 20 to 25 the dunensions of the average Mitor Mrs-Britain are: Ips, 37in.; waist, 25.; bust, 35, And on top of this her feet are substantially bigger ind her mother's!

These changes are not the Tesult of any general increase in

richt.

of

The figures show that in spite common belief the mature wzman is ob taller than her But mother was in her prime. she is kravler-probably sealing 7lb, more on average.

THE SPREAD

In the North of England, there are frequent complaints that the undies stocked by most There is supporting evidence shops are not roomy enough. that this due to a general in Underwear

research crease ik Lcot size among abroad hos produced the fur- younger women. There is a much prising fact that the size bigger demand for the 11. brasslere regarákd medium stevige in then in

15 denier nylon in Britain is graded smol in the ligle which older Australia. So a specially large women wear,

Elze bra is being manufactured

by CHAPMAN PINCHER

115

of

for the Austra

Han market.

The analysis

has also

lighted the

spot- ex-

lent to which the modern

Teenage girls have enormous woman's Bgure changes as she lect compared with girls of 20 gets older.

mainly ago. The la

The average werhan with the years

shown in the because they are so much taller dimensions

pleture can expect to have a for their age,

371n. bust and 39in. hips when And her walst she is 45, measurement wili probably expand to 28in.

Positively THE last word in

-PUMPS

Page

gorgeous jewel

colours, made of the softest glove-kid-leather, the newest and most popular deep V vamp heels.

with the latest of "FIRENZE"

These sparkling new colours will not only enhance your Summer Cottons, but will lend that added "zip" to your Fall cloths as well. Sizes 4 to 81⁄2 N & M fittings.

t

- LIMITED SELECTION PER SIZE & COLOUR

therefore,

An early visit is advisablo

ot

Paquerette Ltd.

16a Des Voeux Rd., C.

that silken .fragrance

she loves

to wear

ot

will

Modern girls grow to rapidly that they reach full height by These thats emerge from a the time they are 17 or 18. detailed analysis of the measure- Their mothers were shorter at monts of 4,500 wemen carried that age but continued to grow Statistics also show that out by statisticians for Britain's until they were in the twenties. 45 the average woman biggest lingerie and stocking So there is Do significant most likely have taken to weZT- mavvufacturers.

difference in the final stature of ing corsels. Up to the age of women compared with prewar 30 only eight percent of British days.

women wear corsets. By the The odds are that if a woman time they reach 45 the number Their observations show that has dimensions somewhat larger has increased to 00 percent.

But the modern young eirvou prewar days the average than the averages shown in the weman's "hip spring"-the di- picture, she will not admit it woman next not despair. These prophecies do not take into ference betwee

hip even to herself, the

When many women are buy- account the efkets of sustained measurement and the waist-has

ddeting through middle-age. underwear, intressed by at least two inches. Ing

especially Before the war the average girdles, they almost always sit "hip spring" varied between for

a size smaller than they, nd 10 inches. Now it varies really need. between 10 and 13 inches,

in the

$0

THE VICTORY

This has

boen probably "This is the main reason why This change gems to be due many women find they have exerting a tremendous influence the last few years mainly to an increase

been given, the wrong size when during

became dicting amount of muscle which pads

Mr Arnold since they go home," the femine hip. Doctors suz-

Wrigglesworth, 42-year-old Popular, but has not yet had gest that this is probably caus-

statistics of the 'over-40's. ed by the extra exercise now leader of the Kayser Bondor time to affect the measurement

resoarch team, claims,

Doctors are convinced that tulem by schoolgirls and young

"But even when they take if women keep watch on their.

and regulate their the garment back to the shop weight they insist that the salesgirl aptaltes accordingly there is overy reason why they should is to blame."

Female figures vary consider- retain the figures which they

in different parts of Dri- sported at 25.

wycimen.

This exercise ant the fact that women generally lead more ac tive lives may also account for the increase in the size of the female foot.

ebly

WHY NOT A DRESS SHOW

Rare

IN THE TOWER?

asks EILEEN ASCROFT

London. ting.

to

hir

No

It is timo this strangling Lady Pamela Berry, the

lifted. Digby and imaginative restriction was hard-working ED tupe and stodginess president of the Incorporated Morton tells me it is one of the

strangling.

hindrances greatest Our Society of London Fashion De-

London business. fashion industry. The Lon- signers tried for three months to don clothes are

lovely, obtain one of London's historical

But one thing is sure. there's no doubt about that, bulidings for the London shows.

She wanted Hampton Court matter how good are the Lon For cut and fabric they are Pelace and received the backing don clothes, until they get the as good as any in the world. of the President of the Board same sort of help that. Roman, Florentine and Parisian houses narrowing at the hemline. collection, designed In three But how pathetic is the of Trade.

receive they cannot hope to enjoy anything near the same support they receive. In wecks? He showed

Success. "My dear girl," he said, "it Paris the fashion industry A coffee Ince dinner dress

The Lord Chamberlain said seen these clothes as thrives, backed by the ample

no. The Palace must not be often as I have, you'd hate the coffers of the fabric firms. "Ructions" with a high, smooth bodice and you'd

commercialised a bloused, hip-length jacket.

She tried the lot."

Tower of London, with the sup- --A red and green checked velvet tweed mult with green

How much

Mr support do our port of the War Minister, And ✪ SLINKY sinort evening

DIGBY MORTON Introduced ribbon sletted round the hips.

designers receive from Anthony Hend. dress called "Thick Night."

jacket own He introduced flying capes as a chunky, hand-knitted

British fabric manufacturers? A This time the milltary stodge- Gone or almost gene-was

in Coarse, unbleached wool.

pote

no and use the the picture dress of yesteryear. a new accessory.

made into an elegant ensemble few lengths of material, un -A hip-length black and But here to stay-or so Hart- white tweed double cape Baring with a cream Irish twoed skirt. occasional fabric specially dyed danger of fro as their excuse.

What could be more dispirit- LACHASSE

the or woven-precious little narrow wool sult, And this was the SLINKIEST out over

An Emerald green and black "comet" line three-quarter-In Florence the collections are ing to personal shoppers

in the historic and the dreary ruling that visitors to beautiful Pitti Palace.

oversoon must have their pur- Americans and other buyers chases delivered to boat or zero- appreciate this interesting set- piano?

NO

crept in-dresses in rucked and bilstered block taffeta,

nell paid-was "Moonstruck."

D

introduced

black velvet, covered with violet and sapphire bends. To go well, checked tweed cape with loops length coats buttoned from

high neck, fitting tightly And what does Michael-last below the bust, then flaring out. -AUDREY BUDD name Donellan think of his -(London Expresí červice)

Д

staged

no doubt, with a tiger-skin rug. underneath to form sleeves.

"The 12 Most Fascinating Women

I Have Ever Met"-Cary Grant

New York, Grant volunteered his list brains, some for a combination гOVIE idol Cary Grant during a recent New York visit of both.

Mas stuck his famous

to promote his now picture, "To What about each makes he's

n Thief." It co-stars appealing?

cleft chin out and listed the Grace Kelly, whom Grant puta “ለ composite of qualities," 12 most fascinating women next on his he ever mot.

fascinating."

11st

of most sald Grant. "But each of them has or had two things in com- mona sense of humour and

"That girl's 'A-one" said Grant, great serenity. Dorothy DI The first three on his list such talent! I fall in love with Frasso had one of the grandest -the three women he talent." married.

senses of humour I ever know."

Grant says that serenity Le the greatest quality a woman "They'd have to be fag-

can have. The others on his list: Ingrid cinating to me," said the Dergman, Ethel Barrymore, Janet "Money, jolerant clothes, handsome actor, “I married Gaynor, producer Irene Selznick, beauty these don't matter Flour Cowles, wife of the news at nil if a woman's fascination thom, didn't I?"

paper and magazine publisher for a man is to last," he cX® Grant, who does some Slimmau

blondo plained. Douglas, fascinating of his own at the daughter of the former U.S. Grant sald a woman also

·tox? office has been married · Ambasador to Britain; côme, should be candid ("A most res Nico 1940 to actress Betsy diedina Beatrice LBC, and the freshing quality in this sigo Drake. His first wife was the late Countess Dorothy Di Frasso, hypocrisy and clean ("A English, actress. Virginia well-known Hollywood hostess. woman should smell good!")A who starred in Charles You'll notes that Granit's lint And tho, molt unappealing

of

. "City Lights." His of fascinating_wonten cover a doshinino trali? dond was Barbara Hutton, the wide. range of · peszonalities "The woman who talka baby dene store chairose. The fri Some at the wornen ara, noted baik," said Grant firmly. "She's. two marriagos unded jo divorce for their beauty, soma, for their gotta golf United Pres

else.

sald

than

Bolero

for

summer

For the sin —

Idea from the

Italian collec

tione,... Gregoí

*riate

makes

this miniature.

bolero

F. MILLOT

PARFUMKUR

раш

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