THE CHINA MAIL, SATURDAY, AUGUST 4, 1955.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
Hartnell Forsakes Duchesses for Vamps
TORMAN HARTNELL, Queen's dress-
NORMAN
muker. has forsaken the duchesses for the vamps. And, behold, the IT GIRL is reborn.
Hartnell, at 54, went back at his fashion show to the world in its 'twenties-to the world when Hartnell was in his twenties.
The world of "The Boy Friend"; the world before embroidered crinoline, tulle. and roses; the world in which Clara Bow pouted: the world itt which girls flounced.
Hartnell has tossed away years of satin and embroi derles for slinky black
velvet.
•
For slit skirts, ..
jersey
For seductive dresses, skin tight to the knees, and then flaring into
a fron-frou of frilles.
Hartnell showed last werk his salon in Bruton collection of
Street, W., ♫
glittering him-star creations
that gould hardly be
for garden parties.
SHOCKS AND
worn
Then his names shocked.
Bust
The startling truth about
the modern woman's figure
35 ins.
Waist 25 ins.
Hips,
371 ins.
"Maria Walewska" -re- calling the Garbo film of Napoleon's
Warsaw
mis-
Feet
tress.
10 ins.
This the dress] was a steel- faille, fight atting and Hrey
Having into a trumpet-line skirt.
"Violettes Imperiales" 10-
enlling the operella
Jaundress
who
Napoleon well.
about 0
also knew
1
This [the drean] was a violet velveteen worn with an amethyst and diamond necklace.
"The Fruitful Vine"-this in que satin, with bunches blue pearl grapes on the bodice.
And even "Dark Doings." You guessed? A sheath of black erepe with an enormous frill of bluck velvet below the knees.
The models were stim. They had a wobble-hip wolk. They
Height
5 ft. 3 ins.
THE NEW FACTOR
spring
THIS is the new
nese
look and the measurements
of the averago modern girl.
And This in thea пси phrase which today entera the vocabulary of the clothes designer. the studens of human anatomy, and the fashion- conscious woman berkelfi
spring.
And what is 17 flip spring is the difference in Inches between the hip measurement the waist measure- ment, Il defines the abruptness with which the hips spring out from the waist.
It's The Scimitar Line...
By The Man Who Is Not Afraid
ICHAEL, a 40-year-old
Mirishman, proved him
had lots of charcoal around the self the Man Who Is Not
eyes.
Afraid of Paris at
last
This, I suggested to Hartnell, week's London fashion
"It's the shows.
was the SLINKY LINE. "Of course it is," he said.
new
Hartnell line and it will
o on for ever."
-COMPROMISE
But he has compromised for
Instead of saying "Wait and see what Paris does," he presented a bold new line.
It is the Scimitar Line.
the debutantes, A few of his Suits wide at the shoulders,
dresses were vagant.
typically extra-belted round the hips, and
dresses, re- Billowing inlla embroidered Inces, rows and rows of Astot frilis, but even
things called
SHE'S not so SLENDER AS HER MOTHER WAS...
The demand for an
tain, surveys show. Women tend to be smaller and stockier in Wales and Scotland. London 11. has more then its fair share of
tall women.
Before the war the most WITH all the aid of slim-
ming pille and reducing popular sizo of stocking was dicts the modern girl is not to B. Now this 91⁄2 to 10, as slim as her mother was stocking is stendly Increase when she was young.
and now makes up 7 percent of the sales of the biggest stock- ing firm,
She is considerably broader in the hips, waist and bust, excord- ing to facts made available recently.
Betwear the pigo of 20 to 25 the dunensions of the average Mitor Mrs-Britain are: Ips, 37in.; waist, 25.; bust, 35, And on top of this her feet are substantially bigger ind her mother's!
These changes are not the Tesult of any general increase in
richt.
of
The figures show that in spite common belief the mature wzman is ob taller than her But mother was in her prime. she is kravler-probably sealing 7lb, more on average.
THE SPREAD
In the North of England, there are frequent complaints that the undies stocked by most There is supporting evidence shops are not roomy enough. that this due to a general in Underwear
research crease ik Lcot size among abroad hos produced the fur- younger women. There is a much prising fact that the size bigger demand for the 11. brasslere regarákd medium stevige in then in
15 denier nylon in Britain is graded smol in the ligle which older Australia. So a specially large women wear,
Elze bra is being manufactured
by CHAPMAN PINCHER
115
of
for the Austra
Han market.
The analysis
has also
lighted the
spot- ex-
lent to which the modern
Teenage girls have enormous woman's Bgure changes as she lect compared with girls of 20 gets older.
mainly ago. The la
The average werhan with the years
shown in the because they are so much taller dimensions
pleture can expect to have a for their age,
371n. bust and 39in. hips when And her walst she is 45, measurement wili probably expand to 28in.
Positively THE last word in
-PUMPS
Page
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with the latest of "FIRENZE"
These sparkling new colours will not only enhance your Summer Cottons, but will lend that added "zip" to your Fall cloths as well. Sizes 4 to 81⁄2 N & M fittings.
t
- LIMITED SELECTION PER SIZE & COLOUR
therefore,
An early visit is advisablo
ot
Paquerette Ltd.
16a Des Voeux Rd., C.
that silken .fragrance
she loves
to wear
ot
will
Modern girls grow to rapidly that they reach full height by These thats emerge from a the time they are 17 or 18. detailed analysis of the measure- Their mothers were shorter at monts of 4,500 wemen carried that age but continued to grow Statistics also show that out by statisticians for Britain's until they were in the twenties. 45 the average woman biggest lingerie and stocking So there is Do significant most likely have taken to weZT- mavvufacturers.
difference in the final stature of ing corsels. Up to the age of women compared with prewar 30 only eight percent of British days.
women wear corsets. By the The odds are that if a woman time they reach 45 the number Their observations show that has dimensions somewhat larger has increased to 00 percent.
But the modern young eirvou prewar days the average than the averages shown in the weman's "hip spring"-the di- picture, she will not admit it woman next not despair. These prophecies do not take into ference betwee
hip even to herself, the
When many women are buy- account the efkets of sustained measurement and the waist-has
ddeting through middle-age. underwear, intressed by at least two inches. Ing
especially Before the war the average girdles, they almost always sit "hip spring" varied between for
a size smaller than they, nd 10 inches. Now it varies really need. between 10 and 13 inches,
in the
$0
THE VICTORY
This has
boen probably "This is the main reason why This change gems to be due many women find they have exerting a tremendous influence the last few years mainly to an increase
been given, the wrong size when during
became dicting amount of muscle which pads
Mr Arnold since they go home," the femine hip. Doctors suz-
Wrigglesworth, 42-year-old Popular, but has not yet had gest that this is probably caus-
statistics of the 'over-40's. ed by the extra exercise now leader of the Kayser Bondor time to affect the measurement
resoarch team, claims,
Doctors are convinced that tulem by schoolgirls and young
"But even when they take if women keep watch on their.
and regulate their the garment back to the shop weight they insist that the salesgirl aptaltes accordingly there is overy reason why they should is to blame."
Female figures vary consider- retain the figures which they
in different parts of Dri- sported at 25.
wycimen.
This exercise ant the fact that women generally lead more ac tive lives may also account for the increase in the size of the female foot.
ebly
WHY NOT A DRESS SHOW
Rare
IN THE TOWER?
asks EILEEN ASCROFT
London. ting.
to
hir
No
It is timo this strangling Lady Pamela Berry, the
lifted. Digby and imaginative restriction was hard-working ED tupe and stodginess president of the Incorporated Morton tells me it is one of the
strangling.
hindrances greatest Our Society of London Fashion De-
London business. fashion industry. The Lon- signers tried for three months to don clothes are
lovely, obtain one of London's historical
But one thing is sure. there's no doubt about that, bulidings for the London shows.
She wanted Hampton Court matter how good are the Lon For cut and fabric they are Pelace and received the backing don clothes, until they get the as good as any in the world. of the President of the Board same sort of help that. Roman, Florentine and Parisian houses narrowing at the hemline. collection, designed In three But how pathetic is the of Trade.
receive they cannot hope to enjoy anything near the same support they receive. In wecks? He showed
Success. "My dear girl," he said, "it Paris the fashion industry A coffee Ince dinner dress
The Lord Chamberlain said seen these clothes as thrives, backed by the ample
no. The Palace must not be often as I have, you'd hate the coffers of the fabric firms. "Ructions" with a high, smooth bodice and you'd
commercialised a bloused, hip-length jacket.
She tried the lot."
Tower of London, with the sup- --A red and green checked velvet tweed mult with green
How much
Mr support do our port of the War Minister, And ✪ SLINKY sinort evening
DIGBY MORTON Introduced ribbon sletted round the hips.
designers receive from Anthony Hend. dress called "Thick Night."
jacket own He introduced flying capes as a chunky, hand-knitted
British fabric manufacturers? A This time the milltary stodge- Gone or almost gene-was
in Coarse, unbleached wool.
pote
no and use the the picture dress of yesteryear. a new accessory.
made into an elegant ensemble few lengths of material, un -A hip-length black and But here to stay-or so Hart- white tweed double cape Baring with a cream Irish twoed skirt. occasional fabric specially dyed danger of fro as their excuse.
What could be more dispirit- LACHASSE
the or woven-precious little narrow wool sult, And this was the SLINKIEST out over
An Emerald green and black "comet" line three-quarter-In Florence the collections are ing to personal shoppers
in the historic and the dreary ruling that visitors to beautiful Pitti Palace.
oversoon must have their pur- Americans and other buyers chases delivered to boat or zero- appreciate this interesting set- piano?
NO
crept in-dresses in rucked and bilstered block taffeta,
nell paid-was "Moonstruck."
D
introduced
black velvet, covered with violet and sapphire bends. To go well, checked tweed cape with loops length coats buttoned from
high neck, fitting tightly And what does Michael-last below the bust, then flaring out. -AUDREY BUDD name Donellan think of his -(London Expresí červice)
Д
staged
no doubt, with a tiger-skin rug. underneath to form sleeves.
"The 12 Most Fascinating Women
I Have Ever Met"-Cary Grant
New York, Grant volunteered his list brains, some for a combination гOVIE idol Cary Grant during a recent New York visit of both.
Mas stuck his famous
to promote his now picture, "To What about each makes he's
n Thief." It co-stars appealing?
cleft chin out and listed the Grace Kelly, whom Grant puta “ለ composite of qualities," 12 most fascinating women next on his he ever mot.
fascinating."
11st
of most sald Grant. "But each of them has or had two things in com- mona sense of humour and
"That girl's 'A-one" said Grant, great serenity. Dorothy DI The first three on his list such talent! I fall in love with Frasso had one of the grandest -the three women he talent." married.
senses of humour I ever know."
Grant says that serenity Le the greatest quality a woman "They'd have to be fag-
can have. The others on his list: Ingrid cinating to me," said the Dergman, Ethel Barrymore, Janet "Money, jolerant clothes, handsome actor, “I married Gaynor, producer Irene Selznick, beauty these don't matter Flour Cowles, wife of the news at nil if a woman's fascination thom, didn't I?"
paper and magazine publisher for a man is to last," he cX® Grant, who does some Slimmau
blondo plained. Douglas, fascinating of his own at the daughter of the former U.S. Grant sald a woman also
·tox? office has been married · Ambasador to Britain; côme, should be candid ("A most res Nico 1940 to actress Betsy diedina Beatrice LBC, and the freshing quality in this sigo Drake. His first wife was the late Countess Dorothy Di Frasso, hypocrisy and clean ("A English, actress. Virginia well-known Hollywood hostess. woman should smell good!")A who starred in Charles You'll notes that Granit's lint And tho, molt unappealing
of
. "City Lights." His of fascinating_wonten cover a doshinino trali? dond was Barbara Hutton, the wide. range of · peszonalities "The woman who talka baby dene store chairose. The fri Some at the wornen ara, noted baik," said Grant firmly. "She's. two marriagos unded jo divorce for their beauty, soma, for their gotta golf United Pres
else.
sald
than
Bolero
for
summer
For the sin —
Idea from the
Italian collec
tione,... Gregoí
*riate
makes
this miniature.
bolero
F. MILLOT
PARFUMKUR
раш
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