1949-10-19 — Page 10

Showing now

Autumn and Winter suits, dresses & coats

by

Brenner. Sports

● Cocktail and-evening frocks

by

Mary Black..

◆ Nylon stockings in all shades

Gotham Gold Stripe

by

Cotton and silk squares

by

Ascher of London

Arriving shortly

Cashmere knitwear -

br

Lyle and Scott

A new collection of shoes

by

`Ferncraft-of-Hollywood

Acqe Thoarup

and more hats

by

THE CHINA MAIL, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 19, 1949.

Woman Today

Workmanship And Fine Materials

By VICTORIA CHAPPELLE

London, long the accepted leader for men's clothes, is gaining an ever-increasing prestige in the world of women's fashions Here de«. signers find the high quality British materials convenient- ly to hand.

And once again an international audience of beyers and fashion designers saw, at the showings of the autumn and winter 1949-50 collections of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion De

signers, models embodying oritin

al

design and good workmanship and superb materials,

The collections show straighter lines

than prevailed last year. Skirts are shorter.

orter. 13 to 15 inches PAQUERETTE LTD. from the ground, and are, on the

Gloucester Building.

But will you be showered

!

auth attention ?

Don't let that bath freshness

fade.-

After your hath washes

away past per- spiration, FC- member

the word

Mum's

for

safer, surer pro- tection against risk of future under arm odour.

Be a safety-first girl with..

*

Mum

A PRODUCT OF BRISTOL » MYKKE

MUM

W

the

whole, much narrower, especially in tailored suits. Hips and poc kets (although the latter are still large) have lost their position as chief theme of designing interest.

Now the focal point is collar. These are stiffened, and built up to the ears and completely hide the nape of the neck, sloping down to the shoulders in the man- ner of the "Incroyables in the final years of the 18th century. Each house has its own peculiar tree new tendency to he seen in Digby Morton's, for instance, is the architectural line, inspired by his early training as an architect. His eforts in this direction are achieved by cut, backed up br detail, such as the use of striped fabrics for pockets to give a three- dimensional appearance on a fiat

surface.

Facecloth Topcoat

Michael Sherard, who is show! ing his first collection as a mem ber of the Society, has designed a red facecloth topcoat with large patch pocket, which diminish the hip line by flaring out far enough to be seen from the back.

Check tweeds and suitings for

both country overcoats and suits

have been much used, Norman Hartnell, who designs many of the clothes worn by Queen Elimbeth, Princess Elizabeth and Princess To

practical en- Saaret,

of which the green, black and white check country coat can be reversed into a black town cost when the wearer arrives in Lon- don.

This coat is worn over a black which also has a spare

suit, check sports jacket.

more

Convertibles

are coming

"C

By EDNA McKENNA

ONVERTIBLES," 1 call them.

There's a two-for-the-price-of-one policy behind many of the new autumn and winter clothes. I suppose it's all →nked up with the prevailing precariousness-of-the-

economie situation.

Some of the convertibles are functional and excellent: some not.

Prettiest idea is the apron. Not the utilitarian aprons that we usually think of, but pretty party aprons in check taileta, bright satin or organdie. which give a full-skirted appearance to the plain dark dresses ther go over.

They can be trilled, or tucked, and look a com- plete part of the dress until a little clever - maneuvring shows that they are removable and

reveal a tube-tiim skirt underneath.

"Shutter dresses

A number of really enterprising designers have cut these aprons so cleverly that they can serve an additional purpose. If the evening is cool they will slip round the shoulders to act as a cioak.

Then there are - shutter" dresses. These are usually in plain, dark wool. By day they look completely tailored, and button High and severely to the neck. Come cocktail time, and side flaps Insten back to display revers faced with vivid coloured saun or brocade, and to reveal a square décolletage.

Good for the morning to evening wardrobe also is the attachable basque which is, in matching or contrasting colour to the dress is accompanies. It gives a plain frock just that "dressy" touch you need for an evening occasion.

Finally there are the dresses with close-fitting jackets which unbutton and slip off to show strap- less bodies underneath. This trick is used most effectively on the new short evening dresses.

?

The New American Look

Dressing the American woman is highly specialised-she insists on being. smart and suitably dressed in the kitchen as well as ot a dance. save shoppers' time, clothes are grouped and displayed under such headings as "For Street Wear,"

"For Business," "For Dates," "For. Dancing," "For the Housewife," or "For the Sun."

Clothes are designed to fit and Hardy Amies, in an important collection, shows

please every shape and height, collars which stand up and roll sharply In fact each model is made in 10 down than sloping types, while sizes so that a perfect fit " Molyneux is very fond of the deep the peg" is pretty well assured sloping line which, on a coat with a very wide hem, suggests apex of a pyramid. Sleeves are no longer so important, although! large cuffs match larger

the

the hair. then start from the wisp of an end and roll it towards the head.

and can also wear the sash round your waist in the usual way.

of

ways

In

With each skirt goes a booklet directions about the eight different

which "sash" can be draped to form an off-the shoulder blouse, a strapless bodice, a cummerbund, a Victorian bustle, back, and other intricate ways of wrapping.

Influence Of TV For lastre don't overlook your "Seperates" are widely used American milliner Lilly Dache daily bashing and also be sure for more than beach wear. One

the scalp with each designs hats for men, bai women to reich

idea is to start with a simple wear them! She likes hats with robe.

jersey dress. You add a button- brims. Men love that mysterious

down-the-froat skirt of "85-open” The influence of television on s'le, add a hale shadow which is

Chrown on

home life is already apparent and jacket that meets the skirt pre- tiny rib-hugging more popular than a belted one.,

KATY, Short jackets, ̈ often belted," and an insignificant hat-It's just as

cisely, and there you are in won-

and the princess line is. By the face! "Never," she

ploused above the waist are shown fa'el as buying an outrageously By CHRISTINE detalled coal.

in practically every collection over unbecoming one." A man really contrasting skirts or dresses. likes a hat he can talk about, and They look particularly well over perhaps chuckle over it a little. the wrap-around skirts which

Hardy Amies contributes, these The rose season has begin in being wrapped round,

apron the United States and not just fashion, to the back.

Peter Russell, on the other in the garden, but in the beauty tand, makes great play with what

Danel.

business.

With

Shorter hair is the summer hair news, and a famous stylist gave me these tips:

VEASEY

taking concrete form in re-design- ing of home furnishings.

with the

.Patio-jamas ** the newest thing in American lounge-wear and include bra, cardigan jacket and trousers so full they look like a ballerina skirt. The swirl skirt is another design that promises to be popalar.

The sunbacks dress with match-

ing bolero takes is place in city life as well as on the beach. You

"the"day" and whip If on for your

Leaders in the television indas try have suggested that ultimately he calls disturbed hemlines, in

pastel - summer clothes the television set may replace the other word, a longer panel back tying in gracefully with fashion's fireplace as a focal point of in- and front on a skirt, or a panel new ultra-feminine theme, the terest in the living-room. ent diagonally at one side, sloping new wake.co shade is charmerose, While in New York I attended wear the bolero for work during the "hem to by almost impercepa gay, soft pink tinged with gold, trele point where it joins the next for lipstick, thake-up and a numerous fashion displays of

holiday clothes and was delighted dance date in the evening. polish.

varie'y of

Stoles, too, are everywhere. For Amert- beach and holiday wear.

beach wear they are trily- icans are unusually clever at tailored, ending in huge pockets "ringing the changes"--with to contain your make-op and several gay and original acces- purse. For the evening they K wories they turn one foundation frivolous in lace, with diinty garment into a whole wardrobe. frills and flounces,

An excellent holiday outfit hint the crinkle

Remember to keep the Navy in from over there is the which-way mind when which results from pinning your drt. The sash of this skirt can holiday wear. In the States there you choose your hair up wringing wet.

be worn eight ways. By varying are jib jackets (tiny de tight- the use of the sash you can im-fitting jackets with By-away provise different draped bodices backs), saflor collars, and porthole necklines, tied through metal eyelets.

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