1930-07-05 — Page 3

SATURDAY, JULY 5, 1930.

FEMININE ALLURE.

THE CHINA MAIL.

The WOMAN'S Page

Large and Small Women Profit by Long Lines.

By Drecoll-Beer.]

That which a woman should un- derstand before everything is the importance of guarding that special gift of her ses "allure." Her true; supremacy over man springs front the fact that she is more refined, softer and delicate. Why should a woman want to appear masculine that is to say, dress herself in a manner severe and at times too sportively? It is a

grave error.

when with beautifully conceived. clothes she can enhance to such a degree of success and with such sharm her natural feminine quali- ties.

Very happily would I welcome the return of woman's fashion for changing her clothes several times during the day, seeing her appear for the different hours and occasious. beautifully and suitably eladi. Think) what varied interest such a custorh creates and how monotony "is ban- ished.

The tendency of the longer skirt is not to be deplored-on the con- trary it gives a softer and, more agreeable line, especialy when the waistline is in its natural position.

HAT AND SCARF MODE.

The hat and scarf vogue is a complete affair in itself, which would assist in the elimination of extras. In fact, one of the fore- mest and most characteristic points in modern fashion is that even details are formal.

This is most noticeable in mil- linery where contrasting linings play a part. The cape-line, beret and turban, for wearing with tailored and sports suits, are made of shantung, or a woven linen straw, with lining and scarf all in

one.

Berets composed of taffeta and fancy printed silk are treated in similar but rather more elaborate ways,"

Straw and cottons are often woven together, with the scarf at- tached, and a flower worn to match the same fabric, Most fascinating to wear with the afternoon *frocks are the silk-and-straw-woven Directoire shapes, with brims lined in contrasting coloured cot- ton, or crepe de Chine, and a cluster of flowers or a fenthered i fantasic to take in the shades of the frock.

Personally we shall tower our waist.jewellery, which nowadays plays an

line just the merest scrap because we absolutely refuse to agree with

A smart head piece of the Beretta style, brim shaped, with ribbon trimming,

any tendency to put it still higher- as for the Empire waistline.

For sports wear the skirts will be very slightly lengthened; but not enough in any way to hamper the movements either in actual sport og mere walking. And what is more, long skirts In, sporting tissues, cs- pecially of heavy woollen weaves. etc., distinctly ungraceful.

exceptionally important role. This is all those engaged in supplying feminine luxuries are jointly and severally called upon to gether in perfect accord,

work to:

The tissues employed stay some what the same, as tweels, jerseys, crepe satins, georgettes,heavy crepe de chines, etc.

I must tell you my conviction that

The

the long line is us delightful for the large as the small woman, former finds herself made even more magnificent by this line, which gives her the air of a goddess. The latter finds herself lengthened in a delicate way. She seems Laller, and she acquires a majesty of allure which her smallness has balked up to the present. She becomes truly Dame (Judy).

The Drecoll-Beer spring-summer collection shows!

The waistline in its natural posi- tion or very alightly lower.

Little waistlines, slightly bloused bodices or princess lines.

Ensembles either with short cross-over jackets or knee-length in front and longer behind.

Suit materials in flát wenves showing small English tweed de- signs, fine lines or dots and some jersey tweed, fine jersey and many summer suits in light coloured shan- tung,

Skirts very intricately worked with insets and tucks, and offen

For the afternoon, I must any 1 tind extremely elegant and ladylike the line which dips a little at the back. In supple, diaphanous ma-pleated. torials auch as chiffon, in soft silks on which there is a lovely play of light and sheen, such as crepe satin, etc., such lines are extraordinarily Fascinating.

We seldom trim dresses, with em broideries and the like any more, all the chic and finish of models being found in those uncopiable cuta and perfect workmanship which are the signature of a great Paris house.

More and more is the ensemble Idea being perfected. There is, in numberless cases, harmony between not only the dress and coat, but also the hat, shoes, gloves, bag, etc. Neither must one forget costume

KASHMIR SILK STORE

for

EXCLUSIVE STOCKS

of

SILK

and

SILK GOODS

Opposite Queen's Theatre

ALEXANDER'S INSTITUT DE BEAUTE

j

Little dresses often accompanied by short capes trimmed with pique and having boufoaiores. They are of black shantung, wool voile and etamine.

Coats of tweed or mixed wools. They have pockets and belts and large collara often in fur

Afternoon ensembles of printed crepe, wool and silk marocain, silk poplin and wool and silk shantung- like weaves, The accompanying coats are either three-quarters or tone, and often have little capes.

Many black georgette dresses with tiny ticks and princess lines. featuring rodets and sun-ray pleats. Ensembles in printed chiffon. ean cinily black and white.

Far evening, lace. much georgette, a little satin and lame. Princess, with trains. Strass embroidery. Evening wraps, either very short

and completing an ensemble, or very long, especially at the back. They are often of printed lame, sometimes over matching 'dresses,

Colours: Nayu, rad, oreen, black and white.-N. C. Sundar Nawa.

Rosie's

BEAU GEO.M-MANUS

Fashion's Newest Favourites.

Suits and Ensembles, the ever popular version of Fashion's Newest Favourites aa sketched show the smart flare skirts, the fashionable scarfs and intricato capes, tailoring detaile. Top left Ensemble of fat crepe, sleeve- less dress, loose, fared jacket Top centro.Ensemble tweed in black and white mixture with blouse of heavy Alat crepe. Top right-Suit of covert with yoke skirt and Anger-tip cape jacket, blouse of white silk. Aidillo left Suit of tweed in pastel weave, severely tailored with semi fitted jacket, slightly flared skirt. Middle right- Dressy type of suit in basket weave with scarf of galyak, that ends in how at back, with back dipping shurt. Foot En- zemble of tweed, three-quarter length jacket within Bear collar of galyak.

ARCHIE-YOURE ENTITLED TO A RAISE IN SALARY: YOU ASK FOR ONE-THAT FIRM NEEDS, YOU THEY COULDN'T GET ALONG WITHOUT

YOU:

BY JOVE I'M GOING RIGHT -- IN AND DEMANC AN INCREASE

IN SALAR

RODDY

WELLS!

KNOW I'M VALUABLE.

IS THAT SO? WELL YOU'RE FIRED I DON'T!

NEED YOU. BESIDES: I'M CUTTING DOWN

MY FORCE - GOOD-BYE->

ROSIE IS RIGHT I'M ENTITLED

· TO A RAISE-

EXCLUSIVE STAGE MODES.

London, June 2,

Some attractive creations will be worn in "The Command to Love," which play is being "tried out" in Clasgow this week before it ap- pears in London. Both Miss Isobel Elsom and Miss Yvonne Arnaud

are to wear very original Paulette

creations.

In the first act Miss Elsom will wear the smartest of evening frocks in a lovely pink shade of Phoenician satin, moulded to the figure to below the hips, when it starts to flare, trailing gracefully into a train at the back.

The corsage of severe simplicity has "bretelles" in a pink diamond trellis design, that open on to the top of the arm and form a sort of collar of jewel work and a deep "V" at the back.

3

OLD TRAYS.

Some Beautiful Examples.

An article "A Number of Things," by Edyth Bavin, recently referred to the present craze of collecting old-fashioned trays and it recalled to my mind a beautiful japanned tray which my mother had many,

many years ago. It must surely. have been early Victorian. The painting represented different fruits resting on leaves. The realistic and ly to us children, and I well remem- exquisite colouring appealed strong-

ber our governess describing the fruits to us, and trying to convey some idea of their flavour, for we had never seen them, as we lived on an island in the South Seas,

What became of this tray when we inally left our island home, I know not, but now I wish that wo old-tray collecting. But I may be had foreseen the present craze for

counted among the fortunate ones, for I have in my possession a set of three round trays which my mother • purchased in 1875 or 1876. I believe family of the late Sir Danfel Cooper. They are lacquered in

A quaint 1830 model has been designed for Miss Elsom in the second act. This yellow chiffon dress is tucked and flared and hor-black, and the largest is about 12 dered with a narrow piping of Inches across, and the others about crepe satin. The fascinating bon- net shape of the same period is of yellow crinoline, trimmed with a cluster of shaded asters.

Most alluring of all, perhaps, is Miss Elsom in a widow's garb (in the third act) of binck chiffon and lace. This has one of the new transparent capes and a bonnet.of straw eire, with a long veil of black tulle.

Miss Yvonne Arnaud in the first act will wear a fascinating even- ing frock of white chiffon, studded with diamonds. The top of the corsage is finished in a square yoke, formed with inset tucker and studded with diamonde, with 2 suggestion of the interesting new cape-sleeve on the top of the arm.

The skirt is of ankle length, and right across are placed graduated frills to give that becoming "slanting" line.

THE GERMAN HOUSEWIFE.

the size of cheese plates. They are Instead of the usual paintings as most uncommon, really unique.

decoration, there patterned

*of Inlaid

|

A scroll- all design

round mother-of-pearl, in

The cloche effect showing exclu- sive style in lacy straw trimmed with ribbon.

all its beautiful colourings. On the rim there is a scalloped de- sign of the same. I have never seen a similar set, nor indeed have any of my friends.

You have only to spend half-an- hour in the study of shop-windows to realise that good clothing-the sort of thing likely to wear and

Quits recently I read in a maga- stand weather is far more expen- zine directions for making papier- sive in. Berlin of Frankfort than mache trays. The process seeried it is in London or Mancheater,

most tedious to me, but should any- German fashions, by the way- one be patent enough to carry the women's fashions-do not, like our

directions out their trays will doubt- own, claim an origin in Paris; the less be unearthed years hence, when "model" garments in Berlin win-

the craze comes round again, for dows proclaim themselves "real "there is nothing new under the Viennese," saya Cicely Hamilton In | sun."-L. H. in N. C. Sunday News. the Quiver.

But wherever she gets her fashions, and however little she spends on them, the German wo- man in every rank of life is well and neatly dressed. This must be said to the credit of the nation in general; there is plenty of poverty, but it does not parade itself in rags. "Even their beggars aré clean and tidy," a Briton resident in Germany assured me; and my own observation bore out his state- ment to the letter. The Germans of to-day go hungry before they go slovenly; and in the women there is noticeable not only neatness, but love of strong colour as well. You see it, of course, in the summer cotton frocks-which seemed gayer in Berlin than in London or Paris; but you also see it in the red and blue garments of countrywomen, working with their men in the fields. I noticed, when I travelled southward Into France, that the garb of the Frenchwoman was not nearly so vivid in hue.

THE NEW ASCOT COLOUR.

Rachel, the exact shade of the powder, is voted the "last word" in smartness for Ascot.

A Rachel organdi has a bolero berthed with lace two shades deeper, the skirt frills being edged with a narrower edition of the same.

With this will be seens shoes, hat, parasol, pochette, all in willow-green, and a cluster of waxed roses in green and white.

A striking ensemble shows the fashionable brown spots on a crepe... de Chine of Rachel colour, with a three-quarter coat of the brown collared with cocoa ermine.

To wear at her son's marriage to Miss Kindersley on June 24 Lady Philipps chose a gown in black and Rachel, one of the shaded and shadowed chiffons adorned with woven applique flowers in chiffon and satin to tone.

WHEN I THINK OF ALL THE WORK I DO

1 OUGHT TO BE

GETTING TWICE,

AS MUCH AS

I GET NOW-

WELL-WHAT

DO YOU WANT?

JUST CAME IN TO SEE IF YOU WANTED ME

TO FILL YOUR INK-4 WELL OR

ANY STHING?

For the best Permanent Finger &

Marcel Waves, Hair Cutting and.

› Manicure for Ládles &

A Gentlemen: altar

Pedder Bldg. 1st floor. Room 5%

Tel. 26169. „Opposite enfestés HK, Hotal.