1925-09-26 — Page 11

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 263

When Fashion Runs True to Typell

on

HOFCI B VOEL FEDBA

GOPED FABRI

To Each and Every Type Belong Certain Fabrics and Lines-Fashion Adopts

and Adapts Accordingly.

-Writers of all the ages have given advice us to fashion-its adoption and ila retention-and while they have differed, somewhat, in their defnition,

the consensus of opinion is that it must be followed in moderation-

"Be neither too early in the fashion,

nor too long opt of it; nor at any time in the extremes of it." In the majority of cases this should be u standardized rule, for any gather- ing will prove that it is only the oreu sional-and unusual-woman that can adopt the new when it is newest end still be truly individual.

tunate.

SURAÁCEO FABPI

QETRAYO SPOME

ANES

Must women of fall figure insi on keeping to unrelieved black or blue, in the mistaken idea that they are well-dressed, no matter what the model. A large woman in an all-black dress is, in many cases,

unattractive

not more, rules that specify "Do." While self trimmings have their place la the scheme of things, a touch of colour smart now colour-should be introduced into the scheme. It may be vestee; it may be a long line from neck to hem; it may be at the girdle; but not in the

girdle. The oval, the square or the V-neckline the lattor filled in to a square; paneis dignified rather than fluttery; overdrapes, care-

ming

characteristics are always desirable broken lines at the waist: too homconsult an expert corsetiere, so far a

theac

4

EMBROIDERY EFFECTIVE AIDS CIA-AND- 00142YLINES

the

Models have been chosen with really large woman in-mind, the woman who has no chance of seeming slimness, whose problem is, first of all, to-dresa becomingly in a way that detracts from size, and does not call attention to it If one's desire is for a dress of one colour, unrelieved, then there could bo no better choice than the frock of black Georgette, relieved, not by colour.com. trast, but by the sheen of silk and bead

the

woman.

Coma/

ALLOVE LACE MAITHI ALERTED GEO/PGEPTE

An odd alcove lends individuality; for the cape sleevee; edges the lower line it will be noticed that the cuff ia of the overblouse. The pattern of the attached only at the side back, so that fabric is permitted to outline the hunt the sleeve-suggests the Bishop, but and the skirt drops an inch or two below canaot; in any senas of the word, he the slip. called by that name. A light coloured frock combines two fabrics an all-over face net aad Georgette, and fine pleating used for the peplum and the sleeve, Horizontal lines are broken without detracting from perpendicular lines, and lower than normal walat. The scalloped hem edge and dip at one side is a bit unusual

I

THE

OF ALL ove

quarter coat is taking the place of the short, hip-length model,

That the sports mode has adopta for the special colorful patte for the special fashion of the straight-line frock 7 Bands of Obviously the stout woman would not colour the darkest in the design attempt the bouffant, but he may net on pocket, collar and alcoves. adopt lines quite as unbecoming and THAT the scarf increases rather ridiculous without realitnow thy the bandkerenier square, which may

it, if she decreases in popularity? So, too, does not follow the precept self," in respect to her clothes. And worn about the thrort or the hips a

pre-depended from the pocket. It sonte. prists and the most becoming thing, the result depends, it no small measure, on the way she wears them. Which brings us back to the corsat--the foundation in every sense of the word,

Our Basitilion, crown hig

# famous Parisian

sponsored by designer has captured the pain Laney of smart New York women 7 18. trimmed with ribbon, camelias birds' heads.

co

THAT the newest waistcoats

most

fully handled; and every type of trim-embroidery. It has a wide front panel, the narrow link girdle outlines a slightly when she has chosen the most appre times "Ppears; '25" a miniaturs, Tripea

that tends to increase height, its width suvert from the unbroken person, for she is gloomy--and there is so much of her! Usually the advice Lu The large woman may not forget the breadth that is never becoming, with carefully placed embroideries that break the stout woman consists of explicit value of tailored under-garments and

Summer fabrics have a very definite the horizontal lines and accentuate the directions as to what she may not perfectly fitting curset every bit of wear, with never a word as to what she advice however short should begin up and down jines The squared neck; place in the stout mode, especially the

sleeve length the slightly uneven voiles, and the sensible cotton model la of style. may, and so many things are eliminated and end with this. Jersey silk is n that it seems almost impossible to have suggestion for lingerie, although thu hem-line; and the fullness at the sides; typical of the nicety of their styling. general trend is toward tailored things.all play a part in the appropriateness It is uncompromisingly plain of line, any variety at all from: which to choose. What The Stout Woman Should Avoid. There is no advice, except that one of the model to the use of the large appreciating the virtues of the surplice

DID YOU KNOW-

sory to the tauered molie are made a closing; the V-neck, squared by bit A few of the usual "Don'ts" include

that fashions the of the embroidery the wide hip girile Certain

lealderan mutation alligator- Satin May Be Used-If One Insists. the choice of a corset is concerned, for

What a clever designer can do with collar and It is a typical cotton dress for sports is: whits homespunt It With a single-button; and have backr

and 10 skirth: too bright by materials or those problems,

THAT the newest and smartest fabric green, blue or brown? andy or light colours; satin every figure presents its individual smartese, char

charm, becomingness, differ-

A wise student of types

antin, if one insists on it, is illustrated of satin. a

of all in a clever frock that makes use of of 'work-or entness and

characteristics and shiny

Agured the

THAN dard merge into the one-individuality. It that slink in around the ankles; notice-stressus the value of the background,

an admitted fact that styles in able trimmings or accessories;

or dark

pointing out the obvious fact-obvious Georgette in a light shade and bead may be. A fenol material case faiblous one-button raglan costs; three-matching satin: colours when one's attention has been 'enlied to embroiderias, Breadth across the front pattern a part of the fabric itself, and patch-pocket suits; and envelope actor: m. the footwear pzodeFLE/DIS over another;

THAT the summer suit of alpaca, prominent part in unrelia Tanjun Keneral' sro designed with the slender material

unrelieved; and fuszy, it-that a large woman looks larger in cut by the fumper effect of the satin not outlined in colour used for the Nousun in mind, and it is admitted, with

Huttery

Lery things.

over the Georgette; the waistline is afternoon frock that takes real tailored silk crepe, tafeta or flannel differs Used in its natural glade, These are a low of when she is dressed in the same colour equal assurance, that there are more

the the most important rules that should as her background, she may become smartly, but not noticeably defned; and trimming of solid colour satin.. It edges from its predecessor of early spring in bright colour, maku te wusten of other types than slim,

the overdrape on the skirt is effective. the neckline and forms the vestee; edges the detail of coat length The thres-, sort of handles be followed, but there are as many, it simply hugo in such murroundings.. wowy one, for which the most beauti- tai models are designed. And they are opted by many to whom they are not becoming, partly because the many do o make personal study of their good alle bad pocita; partly because the muny Rek Mey will look us the model looks; ang pandỹ traume, the art of the spect dress is not generally kuwa and Deloved worth white.

with

absolutely

There Are Many Different Types. Wade clones are usually designed for the slender wenn of proportionate height, there are many slender women who are very abort and many who are well-rounded, very

there are medium-sized women; and there are vory large womca-short, medium and

aniy 1

logical

thas what becomes the one does not become ine

one

THE LURE OF THE MARK DOWN SALE

Good Riddance Sales," the merchants call them, these offerings of the late summer BoaBON. But the term, lo a happy one from two points of view, for and rurent years have seen the, it means opportunity, not only for the

15 alinment:

merchant who arranges the sale, hut for

and growth of shops that the

to the housewife who appreciates A

specialise in apparel for the various

There are not enough of these

hese genuine, worth-while

to

either men close, drobio

but the reason, is attributable Splenish nishments:

to the gezeral run of women, who broken assortments on the shelves

prefer the old, to the now and the

untried

of

very department store, goods that are

Suffice it to say, that once the utmost in perfection, but not to be

she will

a woman has proven the value of had in every size. There are odd plecar

the specialist in apparel, she

never seek her attire elsewhere. She

of furniture in the show rooms, of value

to the buyer, but impeding the progress

will adtatt and appreciate the fact that the salsswoman who has been restocking for the dechands of trained

choose fabrics, colours and 1.nes according to the type of wom

ta

way is to wear them, le a better judge

"winter-po what more natural than the August wale, so far as the menchant is concerned? And what more welcome to the housekeeper, whose motto is

fran she is herself of what she can "hrift," than the release of these

wear bṣcomingly.

When the Lubrica, lines, trimmings goods at sale prices dan tar si fachtóm

"Already Fall is kuro, so

and colours for a certain season have is concerned. She has put off her been chosen, then the designer for type summer garments and is being fitted to

Sho knows that begins her work."

the garments of a fature season 80 broken lines, bold patterns, high colours, it is possible for the clever, worian to and froakich styles aro for the slim anticipate many of the modes of the not for the medium or the stout coming months by a study of the new for even the woman who is things in the windows, in relation to

Inclined to be plump, "covets the

the values offered in the sales. She

, and if she dresses correctly." "may capture a frock or its

kho, may have xt lost the appearance. Bargain price that will be quite correct has covets, Too many women chookę for fall wear, her proof some advance Leir clothes from à picture in a fashion modelinthat is, foretelling, the future, cagarine, or from its appearance on a For in three departments especially, the Diodel.

choice de fatal, even mid summer mark-down ple blender, Tox avon Lane zaez, wet blished things Fur sales, miles

Such

warg open libyanyiking?" "It stands- white and farniture;)

to reason that some coleurs ret

skirts.

Xa Wouair De B

interpret

furnished, the time to do it is sale time, opportunities in household linens and is haight of a regular season, instea If one's needs and the sales can be sure she can find the furnituro foreign patronises between-season #ala synchronised. Contrary to the insistent or domestic; antique or modern; suites ahead to coming weABOTE wail of many women, the goods entered or single piece that she has coveted very best that the best, shops at theas sales are neither "seconds" nor All the essentials of well-groomed offer, at prices reduced, sre they shopworthey're articles that house ars, somewhere, sometime during half. Lo you say, then, coat before the day the sale opens would these sales, included in the offerings, always out-of-anion? Tha have cost the customer from ten to And there are just as great, perhaps true wels you twenty in some cases fifty per cent greater opportunites maiused in por-mean the pasang fancy of the hours more than the sale price. Indeed, many sena! sppare), ior fusa.ons change. Tidak unity, tüd porestyn merchanta include merchandise that has waily when it comes to frocks, costs, Lairies Dupa lama ve do my boa

and furs. rosily been in stock," and when never

comes to "seconds," reputable aturos

TRY BV, necessarily, fins under-ng the huda, popc will mark them so. To deal with stores things-although there is no lack of a come as inset, and whose policy does not include this these but our gamence, the surplus crops, Low she wi

ustard mistaken judgment, and if stock of a passing season, offered at jqui se s Lis dne is cheated, she has only herself to reductions that are baliovable, until blame.

zne can attoru... one investigates

harsal Many Whatever her bood frock, furni apparently The thrifty buyer, seeking quality at woman dresses, prides lower than are generally, asked, beyond has means, though her umlined fur, linen or hangerie she really watching the advertised announce face shows no signs of the disfiguring woman will practiam the gospel ments at the shops she knows he can wrinkles that are over the sign of advertisement and attend the trust, planning to-take advantage of financial worry The secret of therein, described provided, of the bargains she knows they will offer her perfect gowning in the fact that they hold the nounszary lure---G She knows there will be a wealth of she rarely, if ever, buys sown in the and object priced for her

for