1925-03-14 — Page 14

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THE CHINA MAIL

THE FASHIONABLE STYLISH STOUT

The Accepted Mode is Very Kind To the Woman of Full Figure The Waistline is, When Possible, Ignored.

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Influence.

WINSLOW

RPOVIN

AN

OPGWAL FRENCH

THE PE PARL LAG

MODEL IN POJE

But when the girdle, belt, or sash supplements the gown in the manner of the Georgette model, it is correct; it is 'only when it forms a distinct contrast, is "eye-urfesting" that It is not desirable. Drapinga are becoming to the stout #guro, if properly placed, and they may be held by a bit of ostrich; a handsome ornament; or a The too knot of ribbon or flowers. hovere silhouette ja to be avoided. Sleeves may depend, in a mussure, on the arm of the wearer, although Araperies; sleeves that, willen as they approach the wrist; and upper-arm drapes are preferable, the latter especi ally desirable when the upper arm is

by the woman who would appear as slim as possible. Very soft fabrics may by draped or otherwise used to achieve brendthat the hemline, but that breadth must not be apparent or detract even the least little bit from the general appearance of slenderness. this. bit of satisfaction for the large woman, who admires the widened hem-heavy. line-very few can wear it well, and it will never wholly replace the uncom- promisingly straight line.

There is

The constant straggle of the tout woman to appear slim has, at last, found reflection in the general mode. It may have been intentionally; It may have been otherwise; but fashions as a "whole are exceedingly kind to the woman who is fighting the extra weight that burs so many things from her costume. When the models for a new season appear it would seem, as a rule, as though no thought had been given to the woman of full figure, and there are many such, who rount" be clad

The Coat Dress An Excellent Choire acceptably, not

covered. marely

The cont dress, with its invariable Wherevar frocks and suits are dis- diagonal closing. is one of the most played, the models that display thomecoming daytime fashions that fashion are slender,. and tall, and willowy, and has ever provided for her who is stout there are very few opportunities given but would be stylish it may have the large woman to really judge theither the shawl collar or the one side good or bad points of the garment she wisher to buy, Many of the mirrors Are Batteringly deceptive, and many times the frock that looked extremely smart when tried on in the shop is a dismal failure reflected in à accurate glass. Certain of the more progressive merchants have installed really large women in their stout sections, so that a prospective purchaser can get the effect of her choice on a mudel as large as herself. The prospect for charmingly gowned women" of

is proportions growing brighter each season.

enerous

more

revor, but it is sure to suggest height and slendernesswhich is the ultimate end and aim, n'est ce pas? The logical accompaniment to this type of frock is the long, tight, tailored sleeve, but the Hared sleeve is the better of the two types that are used. A cont frock is pictured and it makes satisfactory use of hair line striped fabric, so planned that it really reducer size. The rever closing is used; buttons add an up-and down line; the ornamental vissp adás to but does not detract from slender nuss; add a group of tucks over the hips relievas an otherwise ugly line. The addition of a tuff-of the gauntlet type on the sleeve breaks the long tight line.

Consider "The Spirit Of Youth." Because a woman is full of figure the average person thinks she should keep to matronly lines; bincks and mid-

For the afternoon frock ne fabric is night blues; and pass by all the quite ne adaptable und datering as Georgette, for it can be made to do so. whimsical detaile that make for.smart-

itself; and many things; is beautiful ness and Unusuality, This is not the

The beaded Wear most acceptably. case, except in moderation, Zoro modi- fication of a stylish line; an intelligent Georgette frock is always in the back. use of colour oven, the very brightest ground, and nothing is lovelier, though shados; and an equally intelligent it may be newer. It is quite possible

for the stout woman who loves colour Application of details can be depended upan to keep the younger woman from really bright, vivid, colour--to satisfy appearing middle-aged and the middle her-tonging for it in the slip she wears aged woman from appearing old. But under a Georgette dress, the same colour or some of its shades being an unintelligent use of either line, colour or detail will prove fatal to both repeated in the motifs of the embroidery slenderness and good taste. Youth of silk or bands; in the knot of the p

aubtle, and the spirit of youth in agirdle; or in the artificial flowers that model of any sort is really an indefin

uble aumething that exists we know not how.

Lince, in general, hould add in height and detract from breadth, colours should be used to break what night facetiously be called "expanses" of the fabric; and details should be of

finish it. It in a frock of this type hat the stout woman is usually at her but, partly because she feels so, for. it is paychologically. True that it is not always the frock but the way one wear 31, and If one likes it very much. Indeed, ene wears 11 well,

An extremely satisfactory model is the sort that aid in the accomplishments pietured. It is sutinfectorily elaborate, of Une and colour, Passing the modeyot satisfactorily simple; it has becom in Feview we have the tunics the coat mg Ros, and it is a symphony in colour dress; the ensemble suit with a longtones, Georgette is the fabrics there coat; and a very goneral Londency to in a suggestion of the cont frock in the keep to the varying shades of a single surplicp line of the waist; a slenderizing colour. These are really the outstand-detail in the rest of plain fabric and ing features of the fashions for Winter, the girdle, cloverty placod, dads, hot =AANIS TRIOZY Diablakby

arrure one that every detail may be mued by the siput woman, But before she takes her choice let her agnik .we have said it before-that she is on, undeniably large, woman and must take tiis: fact into consideration na, matter, what'nho buya.

The bagdanig of worlding in the

rld of fashion lathe

almost

silhouette which acce

ik 'preforredi

the newest modulis

train the least from heights, Oray Georgette; self-tone embroideries of braid and bands; glede ornament of laives and single rosettó, rhai the, fabrid itud)?; and, a maTEDW. of "raldraj Bouffre fur at the nothing could by

ention. 1st spióċial

sisove and the wide

Evening Frocks Depend On Rich Fabrics. "Graco, dignity and elegance, all three.

PACTIVE

are desirable when it comes to the frockfinished fabrics most attractive, and in for evening wear. The velvet brocaded their general lines they incline to chiffons are well-liked and Georgette dignity,it le the same with their over a foundation of crepe-never satin timming which is, evitably, of fur, always good. The model pictured in the latter combined at times with a bit an original French: creation. by one of of embroidery or coushing. There is a the leading couturieres of Paris, which decided preferonica for what are known. secounts, of course, for the unusual as the für shades, with which the lovely Hines and very different trimmings. pelts. combine to excellent advantage; a very great deal of henna is being shown, Beaded embroideries, most unobtrusive, but exceedingly effective, combine with though it one crves a new colour, fronds of ostrich to provide trimming: shutter green were better; and the There is no visible waistline and the inevitable blacks' and blues. As a rule frock is sleeveless, which would make the short-haired furs are far better than the longer pelts, for any appearance of it impossible for the woman with the

business should be avoided. And when very heavy upper arm. Were a

the longer-haired furs; if fur le to be model of this type it would be a-care- drapéry of the fabric to be added to a it comes to sparts coats, which call for leas sort of affair, the sleave merely used, the choice should be the shortest

indiested" as designer would say. of these.

Winter coats find the new suede.

Two coats are pletured-one- a

For MILADY BEAUTIFUL

It may seem a 'simple enough little dressing table, with only the very simplest of the necessary toilet articles on its polished surface; but a peep into its drawers and closets would tell a very different story. The modern woman is a creature of luxury, even in her most ordinary moments, and the mysteries of her toilet are manifold. One has only to visit a beauty shop to be sure of this, and to find, in its per

famed depths, many new secrets for herself and many gift suggestions for her friends. For there is no gift more acceptable than. what might be termed Adressing-table" gift-of perfume, cream in one's powder, soap and favourite scent and kind; or some one of the many lovely containers or a clover, new implement for the toilet, New customs Bring new needs, daily.

The well-groomed woman of to day is

If

Afternoon-coate The former li devoloji- general utility affair, the other an ed in a novelty, fabric that seems to have a large check, and trimmings are simple, consisting of a rather Darrow. for collar and two buttons! But the lines are unusual and the sleeve in unusualy so that the coat, as a whole,

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becomes unusual. The afternoon cont fo original in the novel use of the fabric and fur at the side; and the beaver collar and cuffs, have a 'moat, bacoming: brevity-huge collars and very deep. suffs are taboo, so far as the stont woman is coacerned. From the modele as a whole one learns that in subtle ways a satisfying sense of proportion in achieved without eliminating the detal thati nieko for ap-to-dateness" - and harm Designors are becoming more expert overy sonsoh in adapting the modes of slender woman to the neoda of the woman of full figure. Good news, Andgod

UNUSUAL GIFTS

LIST.

For "Him."

A pull-over, teater, brilliant design and colour; an Argyle chocket contawester of camel or alpaca,

A combination smoker's land and tridge igmp, with an arm that is adjust- uble na well is the light itself

"A"carton. his favourits, cigarettes with this mitials or Jala raonogram", om both box and cigaretica

The nowest book by the most eminent nathority on his favourite recreation radio; golf; hunting; fishing

A dozen linen handkerchiefs, with his monogram; monogrammed shirt you're sure of the size and his pro ferences.

For Her

A shawl of Como silk from Italy, with deep, hand-knotted linge

A fluffy bon of ostrich, in evening shade or daytime colouring.

A mirror, set in an old Strassburg. clock frame, with painted flower decoration.

A piece of antique jewellery-old Bohemian: South African garnet ord Sardinian; African corr : ་་

A table top for the Mah Jong, game, that can be easily itted to the folding curd table. At

A beauty box in which one may keep all one's beauty secrets safe from pr ing eye. There's a mirror in the top,

- DID YOU KNOW.

THAT milady how rosts her newest scent, her perfumes diupper or her atomizér on a "perfine tray? This exquisite accessory is of gold or silver finish with insists; under the glass, u Valericlennes lace.

THAT the very smartest aventily frocks wear the flower--that bloofas o avery costume-at the knee or hëm?- The frocks that wear the blossom are of chifor velvet, gold face of chiffon, in white or the evening shades THAT the smartast people at the smartest dances are, wearing "mata). teen hosiery? These gold AKSARAY metallic hose, aro woven of very ha threads, are as aliasr, as ganze silk and kratch the slippers..

THAT a new little hatuit" put arrived" from. Paris-hangal Somatuk upturned brim; a peaked and dented crown; and a saucy bunch at cogee feathers at the very top for trimming. Ii. is, indeed, "of” a clovèrnéis:”

THE FASCINATION OF FINE CHINA.

Faychologists are very busy these anlad, entree, ten and. cake or ment days, finding russons for what we think plates.. And tie Bostons will welcome end do, and among other things they the clever platos that, have a cup to. claim that the appearance of the table match, for they will solve her problem from which one sups or dines has much of serving coffee and santiwicacs of to do with one's appetitearen one's cake with a satisfactorily small service asimilation of the food that's eaten. of china. Then there are, of course, the So the matter of fine linens and Beauti-chocolate, tem and breakfast nets-the ful china becomes a matter of interest to others than the housewives who make ready the repast, and truly there are few household possessione that yield the consistent pleasure that comes from beautiful table appointments, While the average homekeeper may not hays rare, china for her everyday use, she can possess a set of really one ware for gala occasions, even though she may. have to accumulate it a few places at a time this made possible-by: the pre- valence of opsa, sete" that permit the purchase of one place, if the need arises, or the pocketbook forbids a greater expenditure.

・

utter a delightful remembrance for the invalid, who will enjoy her broths and invalid tooda, much better when served on dainty chins Such a breakfast set will dele coffee pot, creamen suger cup and saucer "bawl and covered muffin dish, egg cup, sale dish wild two plates, Boke

One's interest in the products of the pottery skiik-one may rightly, tenná ít p "stmust be extended to include the products of the age old potteries that produco rugged, charming, hand-made piecus for decorativo, as well as OBETRI. even imply that the pots and urns and an adept at make-up, which means that

purposes though it in hardly fair to jugs and bowls that hold our flowers "For the dinnar, set, there is a wide are not useful.- "Off in the little hill she supplements bor natural charms with carefully selected toiletries. the were less the adept, she would not

town of Deruta, Italy, they make rarely be well-groomed, for to be frankly variety of English, French and Ameri- painted, powdered and made up is to be can patterns that come in both rent beautiful pieces, many of them copies ɛnd bone china and in the porcelain of cleanle designs that date back to the less charming than one would be with

An American, product is, neted for its middle ages. These plecen “come "in fine shapes, and the rich ivory tinge of lovely soft colourings-the- silvery nut. By a process of elimination one finds what she needs and what its colouring, some of the world's finest, green of the spruce; a sweat, dusty Jo without; just what cream best agrees with her skin; just what powder in west. suitable to her needs; the exact shade of rouge; the least noticeable shade of, red in the lipstick. To present a friend with any toilet article, but the special brand she uses is but to waste money; there, should be nu, purchases made because the bottle un jug or jar is attractive for its content may be wasted, utterly. A

China comes from what is known as the zone gentian blac; a powdery grays English bone china is decorated with one may have two handled Jardiniares,

•• Five Townn” of Arnold Bennett; and boy-Berry and a sun-burned yellow, and wide, low bowls, shallow dishes and old, cobalt and powder blues, inde, canary yellow and maroon. In Limoges, tall water: jars for her flowers or the France, there are so many potters of may have compote and twisted stem fame that one spesia casually of "the undiesticks to match. From Capri ten foremost ” of the many; Band, come pieces in the pastel colourings, or, Beautiful - sets come to us from

more daring, in bluck; and Naples, Czecho-Slovakia, the countries of con-

Faenz and Pesarp compete for honours tral Europe, even China and Japan with Derata.

Hayland, China" is as famous as a Rembrandt painting, and every month

"

If one is not sure of the kind of per-

France makes a notable contribution fume, cream or powder-then there are

to the pottery group sending the plain many tollet novelties that can be had,

new pieces came to zs that are avtable", hory Bassano ware that is so affacifre: articles that will be welcome because

for their singular beauty and the far when wed with coloured: Elpena or a of their unusualness and because they

ness of their ideas and designs. One | privice of coloured glaze--perhaps both, are not included in the average shop-

should study china with interest before if the colour scheme is rightly handled. ping lat. Toiletries are quite expone making a defnita choice, este fo And it is to France, that we owe the Five, and if one were to indulge to her ADRESARIO REA heart's content it would make quite sit is becoming quite the thing to hole in her allowance. She may have vary the monotony of diriner china with none of the luxuries that her perfumerarer patterns for the lighter cournes, provides the huge jar of bath salts, which make the beautiful sets, specially let us say, or the horribly expensive designed for anlady-fab" or games and soap that she craves. Perfume she may after dinner coffea of real interest Fossess, but ita cost may have pro And there are many services of plates

lbited the atomizer pr the

pattern and colouring that afford a welcome contrast. It is quite possible

say yellow Quimper ware and the blank. white Quimper, that fits into the plan of the breakfast room or the Paliman nook so well. It is the peasant pottery a Brittany and reflects the life of its makers in its danigan the flower taskota and the field flowers, especially, for her purpose, whether it be for her table ar, a too dull room. One's china should have a name-it may even bava. fame, through its makers

dropper that she, really needtome of lñém “surprisingly rare in From it all one may select this loveliest

One may not omit from a

of the Attings of the toilet table the to find the solution of a gift problem in really beautiful things that can bu a dozen choice service, plates; soup, easily made at home, but will end an

air of real luxury to the boudoir, as well; to the table itaell. An entire outfd- raay be made.from lace and ribbon, the Fecessary foundations easily required. Jars and bottles and boxes-all the jecessary containers; picture frames and tally standing Murora, night light- and lamp shades screens for the tele phane and long-handled powder puffa may be rado, with an ease that'ia dur prising when one considers the results from the metal laces and edgings that combiot so beautifully, with the colours of the boudain for which they are.

Certain shades of red and busara apdeisile, in-favour, for this Hype of work and with the Benaby'