1924-12-13 — Page 12

THE CHINA MAIL.

SATURDAY, DECEMBER 13, 1924. a..

THE MANY MOODS OF MILLINERY

BARBARA WINSLOW

PHOTOS

BY JOGL

FEDER

A/OVEL WAY

OF ASSURING

VODALIT..

K

PHYO SHADES OF VELVET

RIBSONY MAKEA TURBAN

Crowns Rise To New Heights of Smartness

Graciousness of Line and. Richness of Colour Distinguish Late Models.

treatments 022

drooping efects. And there are some models that have. the other straight or drooping.

It will be readily seen that there is a most unusual variety, not only in shapes, but in the treatment of these specited shapes. Perhaps there

A Paris. news Tate" gives us the off-the-face effects, narrow and broad information that the eloche is to re turn. Has it ever feally been away- that is the question. Whatever, the dictates of fashion may have Been. and however out-of-style, this amart little shaps may have seemed to designers, the buying public-and that is what really counts-has con- sistently demanded it, and-as always happens when it asks-receive. I muy have been cleverly disguised, even called by another name, but in an form or other it has had, and continues to "have, a place in the mode. It is repetition to say it, of course, but when there is an outstarid ing reason for anything-a fashion,

smart

no better way of stressing this variety than to describe, briefly, some of the models seen in the shops, the models that seem to have "tendencies" that may, later, become realities. A group of models by famous Parisian milliner stressed felt so many of the collections do- and every shape in this amurt material is small and close-fitting.

are ribbon trinis; and. there are brims wide, narrow, turned up, l'arrel dowri One's own face will suggest the frame that is most fitting.

an event, or a condition-that reason The brush trimming has representa- will bene repetition; Ps-the clothe [tion; there will always be, while heads Are shinele and a small, close-fitting hat is imperative. Where nee there were monthly, even weekly reports or the status of the cloche, there are now, two subjects that must be re- ported-1e position of elnebs hats in the military mode and the progress of the bobbed hor. fashion. In spite of the activities of designers against the former, and the propaganda of hat concerns against the latter, both

remain.

There is a new hat of ombre felt that is 'most attractive. The felt. it- self is exquisite in its shadings; the crown has Directoire tendency:

H

A

the trimming-of velvet ribbon is chosen to blend with the shad- ngs of the felt. In contrast, group of velvet hats feature the new shacle known as "Bishop's purple a The Small Hat Becomes imperative. regal. though

Whatever its

subtle, shade that I spin shape, the birds red with blue. Paris is wear- hat is imperative, and! the ing it, which is a gredential rot to woman with abundan locks will have be denied, and one may have a small, difficulty in finding the variety in a medium or a large shape in this Targe bend sizes" that makes for lowing successful and satisfactory choice.--particular shade-would-be-a-smurt | Even the woman with short, thick hair having it thinned out, so that the sleek coiffure will be possible, and this movement has an important bearing on millinery. Any display of hals will prove the assertion that the small hat is fashion, although there will. be reasonable number medium hats and a few large shapes for those who deinand them. Fall fashion shows have made a creditable "attempt to popularize the medium

gized "hal.

a

necessary to a costume ensemble of subdued lanes, for it is sure to be wholly wrong with almost any other colour or shade,

.

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Any Group Shows Unusual

Trimmings. Variety and unusuality are of

the characteristics. of the trimmings that one finda on the smartest hats. Designers do much with the richness of ribbons; the tailored smurtness of the brush and the pompon-the latter very distinct vague in itself; and The luxurious beauty of ostrich, coque and the varied fancies of feathers and birds' heads. Skill and person-

But the average woman will find comfort and smartness in the small ahupe, and there

are more average women than any other class. result of the war on the cloche andality are required to make the most

The

the vogue of short hair is a most amazing number of styles in huts of the popular size, and if a woman seeking a new full bonnet comes home without one-far any other than that she couldn't decide which of the many to take-she is, indeed,

reason

of any one of these trimmings, and there must be touches of youthful ness and charm. After all, simpli city is much smarter then luxury, and the latter is quite a failure, when the former is "missing.

It is not an easy malter to chooKG

show

hard to satisfy, Fer there are count. -from the many the one," or the less versions of many different style, two, or the vr. for it takes mary and all have their points.". There are thần Ave, to even half tell the are vagaries of both crown and brim; stary If the pictured hats. there are beautiful materials; and variety, that is all that can be ex- there are rich, even exotic calours for pected, and, one will admit--that M thuse who do not care for

black.

what they do. The square-crown Black hats are, just nt the present

non is exemplified, in & model of time, outselling all other colours and

hatters' plush; very smart, very shades of colours in a rather startling tailored, Grosgrain ribbon bands it proportion,

and finishes the aggressive brush It is rather a severe model, rkely to ornament that is the only trimming.

impossible, as the case-or the face be either very becoming or wholly

Of course, the outsourding feature of the fall mode-as so far. presented te the high crown, and we have many variations of it, some of them may be. It is representative of one amart; some really beautiful; others downright ugly. But it must be re-mode.

of the most important features of the membered that what is rart on one will be unattractive on another, ao, fons. may not be too sweeping

generalitica. But the square crown has not wholly replaced the round crown, although the former is, per

in

Two small hats are illustrated, the, one with wrapped turban tendenclce, quite likely to be adopted and worn clocho successfully, although the off- well by the woman who wears the side trimming is not always becom

haps, responsible for the increased ing.

This model is made of two. shades of velvet ribbon, wrapped run through an ornamental buckle which about the frame, and the loops are lends a necessary differentness to the hat itself. The other amali hat would prave rather trying to many, but would be extremely

smart when

height seen in the latter. There is a Vorsion of the high crown known as the "telescope"-which explains itself and one may count on this feature to soften the definite quere line that o many find unbecoming. Square growned models, in Birectoire and position styles, have a large repre-adapted to the type that could wear entation, but do not, by any means, it well. It is here developed vershadow the mode.

in

SQUARE CROWNED MODEL OF! HATTERS PLUJA

ITHERS ADD:

FINY BIRDS

The Fine Feathers of

FASHION

#

137

Not wholly to the matching note off, been held över from another season, have no sleeves at all, and a'costume. identity-fabric, trimming, colour subtle changes have been wrought in offeet may be utterly ruined by an docs, the popular costume enamble it, one might say that improvements incorrect choice of handwear. In ove its unmistakable, chic and very in a hold-over are always imperative. general, the trend is toward the definite charm; upon the choice of it is thus with the, scarf, which has bag, scarf, costume jewelry-the so-grown, rather than

lessened

hort, gauntlet glove, although some culled costume details-un equal popularity, and

some of the newest, few prefer the plain wrist—or the value must be set. These accessories notably the

offerings are very beautiful indeed.

one or two clasp type. While these really the

large scarfs "Ane feathers"

of heavy fashion, the distinguishing

Italian silk-direct from Italy. These gauntlets are fancy, they are not as native Roman colourings and lave

are

of

that smartens, unmistakably, as neces

touch lovely things are shown in the vivid fancy as in past seasons, the simple

sary as the homely cenient that holds hand-knotted silk fringes in matching embroideries, appliques and perfora-

the stones Armly in their places in the sturdy wall. They change with fashion, and are even more suscepti ble to differences than the moles themselves, thereby bringing a note of variety to the monotony of between-season times and adding zest to the life of fashion itself.

colours.

1

would be expected, in view of the. popularity of the tones of brown, a wide range latter.

of the shades of the

Hons in the majority. The shoes are Real feathers of fashion have been stressing white and black, and black with us, off and on, for many seasons, and white, the latter smart for wen- but mere uses are found for themeral wear." Glace and svédé seem the just now, than there have ever been favourite leathers, and there is, as We have come to expect them on hats and in funs, but designers found then The student of clothes-we are all lovely--and, withal, practical sub of va that, to a certain extent-finds stitute for fur on evening clothes, ao valuable information in the costume that ostrich-and marabou as weil- jewelry displays; in the handbag sec- played a prominent part in the formal tion; in the glove and hosiery depart- mode for summer. If there were The frock or suit of good prophecies that the popularity of this material and simple lines, bought a trimming would season or two ago, may be smartened by some ttle detall that lies, un- heralded and unsung, on the display counter; or hints may be found in the fashion news columns of the smart shop advertisements.

ments.

One's morale is strengthened, out of all proportion to the intrinsic value of the thing itself, by a new hat; new shoes; even an odd bit of costume jewelry. And the costume details for fall wear are very smart and fascinat ing; it is imperative they be so that they may keep pace with the funda- mentals of the mode. And even when an idea-the scarf, for instance-has

SEEN AT THE POLO

MATCHES.

I

satisfactory

Fashion interest hus centred,

always naturally, in the fashionable apparel black and white combination.

Amart, always that made its appearance at the Polo There was a distinct emphasis on matches, when all society was on the qui vive, not only for the sport of

the costume suit, which appeared in many variations with the aim, one- the game itself, but for the presence plece dress or the tunic-skirt com- among them of H.R.H. The Prince of bination. If one cares to extend the Wales. The woman who appears fre- costume idea to costume harmony, it quently in public is, as a rule, a will be safe to include nearly every close student of the mode, and what ensemble present in the Ever judgment

general she renders may be classification. Thero were accepted, in so far as it la practical, plaid frocks in evidence either & mony A final. And whether one's personal whole frock of silk or a plain fabric needs be quite the same or very, very banded in colourful, boldly, plaided different, her decisions prove of in- material: The new printed slik terest. The first international match polo inspired-were seen, and there was played on a day calculated to were & few black velvet ensemble bring forth a display of the very costumes. Coats were to say, the fatest ideas in fashion, for the tart least, colourful, many of them richly was the colour of the far-famed embroidered and most of them lavish-

ly trimmed with fur. The Directoire influence was apparent in many of the smartest models

to the

go out with

Since neckwear, if "in" again, this the accessory demands one's attention, for cooler weather, those prophecies have it in a short cut, not only to amart been anfulailed, for ostrich con-

neas, nut to the "making of a new. tinuen popular, ita graceful fronds usual of the newest models of frocks dress-of the unbelted variety has making lovely some of the most un-

frock from an old. The straight line-

and wraps; wisps of it forming a created a demand for the panel background for the jewelled orna- ments on evening slippers. And the collar, which extends, to the, hemline ostrich fanther boa-reminiscent of in front, varying in width to suit the Merry Widow hats And the amall figure or the fancy. It is a new idea, waist line--is vogue.

and rather a smart one, to match Since the short sleeve is the anti-the touches of colour on the former one's neckwear to one's handkerchief, thesis of the long-the latter obtain matching colour on the latter. ing in the tailored type of frock-chlefs ara, less colourful, that is to strict attention must be given gloves. Many of the dresses and tunies that are part of the costume ensemble

emerald isle; the sky was blue above; and the sunshine was approvingly WRITH. And fashion played up to the calculation.

Hats inclined to felt or velvet, the Any. description of individual cos- former predominating. tumes would be

There were quite out of the question for the mode is proving so fully considered in relation

a great many large hate, always care- varied in

its interpretation that to silhouette, and the smaller hat, as a specialize on one would be to omit the rule, had a pompon, or brush trim many that have proven equally inter- ming, placed low at the side. The eating and attractive. Certain, last small fur scarf was everywhere ap A Wide Variety Of Shapes..

brown velvet-brown in so popular The Two Toned Ostrich Neckpiece

ing impressions were created, and it parcnt, and usually, it was of sable or The turban is another small hat is known to milliners as the "Con- with fashion-and the shape is what

is to these impressions that our atten- silver fox; leopard seemed the favour hat is meeting with approval from nental" The birde heads-plated-

Rivals. The Oze Or Two-Skin Scarf the fashion display must have matching note of identity hosiery

tion is directed. Taken as a whole ite trimming fur. There 01 Eur

WAI A he type of wontan that wears it well directly in front are, brown and tan.

pressed nd furnishes the variety that

our royal vialtor with its and gloves, many wearing zudo howe im-

Two hats rative, it would seen. There aro

of medium alzeare

besuty and Its richnoss--if he had and handwear that matched and illustrated. me, wrapped turbans, developed in tailored shape gives it real origin--five-possibilities, but typical of the could not bat be Impressed by the black combination. Partiality

The double brim of the

oyes for anything at Meadowbrook there were white glovée, as well, átal Evet and velvet-ribbon frequently ality, and the ornament is in keeping fascination and allure that fall hats

bot the players and the game, One-the-black-and-white, or white und two shades or two colours thero with its severity. Coque feathers trim possess. Whether it be turban, beret great deal of black; an almost equal denia or a carnation; and Spanish saflora-trying to all but

colour range, which included a very shown the artificial flower-agar- exceptional few; and there are

Dectoirs model, of a single colour, rich and sombre tonesthe or tam, Spanish sailor, postllion or apportionment of brown-in its many jewelry was, almost without excep. Kēts.

These shapes are developed velvet, felt, hatters, plush, satin

there is something fascinating predominating, aoveral shades of a colour or all black wing and the gorgeous autumn abades long, two-strand and

redstien, made up of pearls. There were combinations of these materials, it comes to brims, one Ands

about them every one, though to every "shutter" shade fuchsia, mauve, strands were made of more than one

green the new necklaces, and some of the smartest The Feather Boa Is Reminisce one, they are not all becoming.

royal blue and mustard; and

"Merry Widow''. Hats: And, the colour of these artificial "jewels. Small Waistline:

a model of volvot that is reminiscent in many ways of the clochos, although larger than the clocha is supposed to be. The richness of the trimmings forbids ment of the material itself. any other than the most simple treat

Just

WAS

earfume

three-strand

Ker-

say, the more subtle shades seem to predominate,, although there are many very gay, very bizarre bits of linen, silk and crepe de chine. The glove handkerchief is back again, and has its use in formal attire.

When it comes to epetama jewelry, the field is so wide that one may only enter it, but the one outstanding fashion ia the vogue for artificial The fashion, necklaces-two- strand, three strand or "endlean chain" bracelets and earrings. The necklaces of two or three strands are very popular, the pearls finely grad- uated and finished with a sterling silver, clasp not with an emerald, amethyst or sapphire coloured stone. Bracelets may be had to match, in two or three strands, and the clasp matches the clasp of the necklace. Lattice bracelets, of pearls in even sizes, are graceful because 'they' ara flexible, and fasten with an ornamen- tal clasp. Artificial pearls are to be bad in white, flesh and pink-those three tones the most coinmon; in Cray, Domergue blue or pale rose; and the newest idea is the pearl in shades of brown, There are, also, some very satisfactory. imitations of the black pearl.

The silhouette of the hour seams to demand the flat handbag, and so there" In a wide variety of this type of bag. Some of them are called "hand books," but whatever the name by which they are designated, the result w โ eminently Batisfactory. Thoy come in rich, sturdy leathers end -gorgeous-slika--and--brocados,-as--the need may be, and may or may not have a handle. Bot it in Imperative though you many never have thought -of-it-just-that way-that-the-outline":

of the handbag conform to the out line of the allhouette.

A choker necklace of graduated The Suish is complemented by drop or Of beads in green gold, silver or bronze

stud - earrings to..., matcham van E

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