1924-11-08 — Page 6

H.

THE CHINA MAIL.

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 1924.

HIGH LIGHTS of the FROCK MODE

SKPSAPA

SPIASLOW

In Spite of the Strict Individuality of Many of the Models, Certain Charac- teristics Persist-A Season of Great. Variety.

Hardly a single mode that has been prophesied for the past few seasons is missing from the display of models that Fashion is offering for fall and winter. There have been many changes in many of the most prominent style details, yet it is quite possibly to adhere to the silhouette of a season or two ago without seeming hopelessly "out of style." Really Tadical changes are quite out of the question, these days of Independent thinking, and the average woman wishes to be aure a fashion is becoming before ake cominits herself to it.. So it is with a very real hesitancy that designers present new idens, even when they have been wholly successful in the modus they have sponsored in former suisons.

But when the time is ripe for change-as it seems to be, right now-there is quite sure to be a multiplicity of models embracing the changes that have been thought out, but these changes do not appear in every model, nor do all of ther appear in any one model. But by this time of the year it is quite safe to separate the wheat from the chaffven if one misses a grain or two-and definitely aift out the true from the false, as it is in fashion. There have been society events of an importance great enough to stabilize the most unusually unstable mode, and from the many one muy choose those that seems best adapted to her purpose.

It is A Mode Of Subile Detail.

Above and beyond all else, it is a mode of details, and these details are more than usually subtle. There have been many influences at work-for many months-and these Influences are apparent in the smart little models that arc making their appearance everywhere. The frock takes on added importance since it is really a part of the auit mode as well as a separate identity, and one of the things we are bound to accept is the ensemble costume suit, for it is having the success that its smartness, practicality and beauty assured it from the outset. And so the one-piece dress does double duty it may be simply a dress and nothing more," or it may be the better part of the costume suit.

Attention is focused from the start on the hemline, for

it is, apparently, widening, and retreating from the proximity of the shoc-tops, When a designer makes up her mind to depart from the strictly straight line silhouette, she must do so in such a way that there will be no hint of abruptness, for nearly everyone is quite as satisfied with this outline as it is possible for womankind in genera! to be satisfied with any one thing. But the clever minds of the most famous originators have, apparently, achieved the impossible., and we are now meeting with a widened hemline that does not. to any great extent, detract from almness. And this detail, when correctly handled, is a most acceptable one, and may

winter. achieve a definite pluce in the fashions of fall

The slim, straight aflhouette, very much shorter than for the past few seasons, is varied by the flounce; tho circular ruffle; gedot inserts; and the tune-this latter bearing little or no relation to the hemlind. At times the tunic flores, giving width well below the knee; and again the spiral dress Is achieved through the use of a circular flounce wound round and round the frock, always twice, sometimes three or four times, as the figure permits. The tunic is rivalled in its undoubted popularity by the coat frock, a style that to meeting with a very general acceptance. Especially in wool fabrica or the heavier silks of the bongaling type, it is extremely smart, and is usually accompanied by the single or double skin scarf of fur.

Variety Lends Interest To The Mode.

19

A survey of the models presented in the smart shops Impresses with the variety of their ways, their fabrics, their colours and trimmings. This is always a delightful condition, for one does not seem as likely to "met one's self coming down the street," when this is so. One finds the tunle frock, the tubular silhouatte, the cost and surplice dress, and the model with a wide hemline In all the approved fabrics- bengaline, falile, satin, twill and the crepes. The three dominant colours of the season seem to be black-stressed more than a bit, blue and brown-the latter two in many delightful shades. There is a very distinct vogue of the black frock touched with colour-fuchala, royal bine, mustard, lacquer red or ing green. Colours are inclined to be rich,

th Oriental tendencies,

Fringe is an outstanding trimming note-to, too, is far; nd buttons, ribbon bandings and birdings, Jace Jabots and ollars and colourful embroidarios: appear. Ingre aro. liqued motifs on many of the newest models; and metal, benille and beads are variously, employed-it would, whatá that the headed frock never wholly disappears from the othing. One day not omít a reference to pleats, starf and the apron drosty for all thred of those detallet seen on many at the new it, wid" smartest) dresses. therancia atlet Contacking cross them, and oddly conceived storvis add a note of differentzia, wary Jonly very tailored sloerezis good; there are pretta «impoy of the dressed how no Alorras at all. The medium- (eg, abort älects in Dot, no.

STRICTZ TAYLOREO /TOCEL FOR DAYTIME

WEAP

PICY E/TS) DISTINGUISH

BY BARBARA. WINSLOW,

AYO

SATIN

IN THE ZAHNER..

OF RUSSIA

TRIMMINGS AND THE ENSEMBLE.

.:

Given a garment of lines unquestion- ed in their smartness and charm, and a world of possibilities becomes yours with the possession of that garment. For t lies within your power to increase or decrease the beauty; accentuate or wholly destroy its smartness through the medium of the decorations you apply to it. Some of the most expen- alve and the most beautiful models employ no other trimmings than the." fabric of which the frock dr suit or coat is made, but usually there is something, different-buttone, an `orna- ment, a touch of hand work, to smartan' the smartness or beautify the beauty that already exists. This immediata season is remarkable for the deftness of the trimming touches that designers have made available, but there is. always the danger of their overuse.

Braids, fringes and ornaments-of silk or metal-play a noteworthy part in the trimming mode. There are the fat, slik braids of a solid colour; the braids known as "tapestry" because of the patterning and colour of the wools; and the before-mentioned flat silk braids adorned with stripings or patterns in metal, wool or silk. Thero ara beaded ornaments for evening frocks and for formal afternoon dresses; there are the cord and fringe ornaments that are à part of the after- noon as well as the street and morning mode; and there are metal ornaments for the coat or surplico dress. Buttons fall in which this class of trimmings, and buttons of all sorts are used on the newest conts and dresses...

Appliques "of the fabric or of ribbon are important-suede is used in many of the cleverest of these motifa; satin- surfaced fabrics trim themselves with the reverse of the material in bandings und panels; and ribbons of all sorts— allk, satin, ombre, metal, brocaded, Kallie and cire effects play a promthent part. But the most luxurious of all. the many décorative bits are furs--used in a most, lavish way on any and every garment that makes them possible. The best likod of the many trimming pelts are loopard, monkey, "squirrel- Edloured to please; beaver, baby fox and Perilan lamb,'-One must include rabbit' In the list though one most certainly does not buy it under that name; and baronðuki is approved--in Russia, it is known as chipsnak! ⠀⠀

Buch, then, are the approved methods of decoration, doubly alguificant in, the light of the ensemble costume that is the fundamental of the mode for the coming season. To be specific, it is with na now. This ensemble costume da, more. (often than pot, a cóstumé harimony, and while one expects ́# kultit, sold as anch to "match" its separate parts," there are more ways than by means of fabric.Barely enters the significance of the trimmings that may link dress ZATO ŠAMŐ VORU Krkante und vork LOKALRANCE AS

frock of erepe assă a cont of some suede (delsbad fabrié may become a costume b- by the use at the same teimtning fur: chematching bit of jambrolday; or an

prication of Bruidig to, bojlijn Ter,

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