PUBLIC RECORD OFFICE

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LEICO. 882

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PUBLIC RECORD OFFICE, LONDON

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presence of the Niang Niang," who was sitting up dressed as if she were a real person in her own chamber. In this posture she will remain until the beginning of the Chinese year, when she will be put to bed and remain there until the present season comes round again. The Governor of Kiaochou, who had ascended the hill some time previously, informed me that when he visited “the Lady of the Mountain," he enjoyed the privilege of seeing her in bed.

Behind the temple of "the Lady" is an inscription 40 feet in height cut into the rock, and dating back to the T'ang Dynasty, and in front of the temple are two pillars of bronze. 14 feet in height, erected by the Emperor K'ienlung (A.D. 1736- 1796), which pilgrims rub with cash to hang round the necks of children as "luck- pennies."

The beauty of the view from the summit was so inspiring that the Judge and most of the party were moved to poetry, which was duly inscribed on the wall of one of the buildings near the summit.

The descent of the hill was made in chairs in less than two hours, all of us being much struck by the rapidity with which the chair-bearers trot down even the steepest inclines.

On Tuesday, the 19th of May, we set out on our journey for Ch'ing chou Fu, by way of Poshan and Tzuch'uan. We had hitherto used carts for conveying our party and baggage, but had now to abandon them and make use of wheelbarrows, on account of the hilly nature of the country through which we were about to pass and the absence of roads passable for carts. The Judge accompanied us as far as Tzuch'uan, and proved himself a most agreeable travelling companion.

We halted for the first night at Lai Wu K'ou Tzû, having travelled about thirty- five miles.

On Wednesday afternoon, the 20th of May, we reached Poshan, which is distant from Lai Wu K'ou Tzû about 26 miles.

The scenery throughout this part of our journey was charming, the Ch'ing Shih Kuan, or "Grey Stone Pass" being especially striking.

The city of Poshan, situated on a hill at the foot of which runs a beautiful stream of water, is the most picturesque and cleanest city I have ever seen in China. The Magistrate, Mr. Yeh, who welcomed us to the city and who had made every provision for our comfort, struck me as being one of the ablest of the Magistrates we had met.

The city of Poshan is the centre of a large pottery and glass-making industry. At the potteries three chief varieties of ware are made a red ware common in China; a ware of a pale straw colour; and a metallic, light ware, possessed of great heating qualities.

The glass manufactured is made from stone found in the neighbourhood. We visited the glass factories and saw the glass-blowers at work. A variety of articles are made, such as window glass, lamp shades, rods, bottles, tumblers, beads, and ornaments of many kinds.

The Magistrate is also improving the painting and cutting of glass, and the Judge informed me that it is the wish of the Government to obtain an expert in the manufacture of glass from Europe to teach the Chinese workmen improved methods, and asked me if I could assist to secure the services of a suitable man.

The Poshan valley is rich in coal. Mining has been carried on for over fifty years. We paid a visit to one of the mines. The coal is said to be superior to that of the Weihsien mines, worked by the Germans. There are twelve mines in all started by the Chinese, but they are not all working now owing to want of capital. They are privately owned and subject to a Government duty of 5 per cent. on their output. The deepest mine is over 2,000 feet in depth. The miners are lowered into the mine in a basket by a rope attached to a wooden windlass, and stay below from morning till night without any shift. Their wages are from 500 to 600 cash a day-about 14 dollars a month. The best coal is used for making coke; the inferior quality for smelting purposes. The price of the coal at the mouth of the pit is:-

First quality-Seven cash a catty, or less than a farthing a pound. Second quality-Two cash a catty.

Third quality One cash a catty.

The cost of the carriage of the coal is more costly than the coal itself. From the Chinese 8th to the 5th moon, camels are used for carrying the coal; at other times, wheelbarrows are the usual mode of conveyance.

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The Germans already talk of the Poshan mines as if they were their own, and the branch railway is gradually approaching Poshan. When the time is ripe, the Kiaochou Convention and its 30 li clause will be quoted. The Chinese, however, are alive to the position. The Judge said to me: "The Germans want to grab these mines. They think we are asleep and do not understand their game, which is to construct branch railways to every place in the Shantung province where they think there is a ripe plum ready to fall into their rapacious mouths."

We started on the second stage of our journey to Ch'ing Chou Fu on Thursday, the 21st of May, travelling as far as the Tzuch'uan district, distant about 15 miles from Poshan, passing through some of the prettiest scenery we had seen, especially when we reached the neighbourhood of Tzuch'uan. On our way we observed white flags, marking the route of the branch railway to Poshan. The peculiar cry of a bird attracted our attention, and on inquiry we were informed that the bird is called "You have offended your mother-in-law," on account of its cry resembling the sound of the four Chinese characters indicating that dire offence, which is regarded as unpardonable and dangerous in China as in other parts of the world.

We entered the city of Tzuch'uan by a fine bridge, said to have been built by the rebel Liu Tê-péi, who was finally overcome by Sengkolinsin, the famous Mongol General, who opposed the advance of the British and French armies upon Peking in the war of 1860, and who built the mud rampart to protect the city of Tientsin, now known as "Sêngkolinsin's Folly." The British bluejacket spoke of him as Sam Collinson."

The Magistrate of the city provided for us the most comfortable quarters we had inhabited since leaving Chinan.

On Friday, the 22nd of May, after having said good-bye to the Judge, who had accompanied us from Tai An and whose genial company we were sorry to lose, we travelled as far as Chinling Chên, a distance of 25 miles. On our way we saw coal workings at a place called Hua Wu, and from Shih Chia Lou to Chang Tien, where we halted for luncheon, we saw the Chinese making embankments and levelling the ground for the projected branch railway to Poshan.

The road to Chinling Chên was the worst on which we had travelled, and reached a climax at that place, being almost impassable. We met several carts, some of the mules in which showed signs of having fallen into the mud, and Mr. 1, one of the deputies, who had ridden in a cart as far as Chang Tien, abandoned it for a chair on the journey to Chingling Chên.

At Chinling Chên the German railway has an office, which is guarded by Chinese soldiers, as is also that portion of the Kiaochou-Ch'ing Chou railway running through Chinese territory, for which purpose 1,500 troops are detached from the garrison at Weihsien by General Mei.

On our arrival at Chinling Chên I received a letter from Mr. Jones, of the English Baptist Mission at Ch'ing Chou Fu. kindly offering to place his house at our disposal, and stating that the five or six English families resident in that city were looking forward to meeting their fellow-countrymen.

On Saturday, the 23rd of May, we set out for Ch'ing Chou F, distant about 25 miles, which was the last stage of our journey overland. We crossed the river Tzû Ho, where the Germans are erecting a fine railway bridge of ten piers, which was almost completed and ready for the ironwork.

On nearing Ch'ing Chou Fu, we were met by General Ch'ên and 800 troops, and conducted into the city to quarters provided by the Magistrate, who, with Mr. Jones, was there to receive us, and invited us to prolong our visit to the city for a few days.

Being anxious to press on, I declined the kind invitation and decided to leave next day for Weihsien by the train starting at 6 a.m.

Whilst we remained in Ch'ing Chou Fu we were most hospitably entertained by the Magistrate and Mr. Jones, and regretted we could not spend more time with them.

I was much struck by the friendly relations existing here, as elsewhere, between the Chinese Authorities and the missionaries.

On Sunday, the 24th of May, we had to be up early in order to catch the train, as the railway station is situated at some distance from the city. We were escorted to the station by the four deputies, our eight mounted attendants, and the troop of cavalry that had accompanied us from Chinan, and at the station we were met by General Ch❜ên and a large body of soldiers. An officious and obstructive German

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