PUBLIC RECORD OFFICE
Reference :--
C.O. 882
8PUBLIC RECORD OFFICE, LONDON
ALLY WITHOUT PERMISSION OF THE BE REPRODUCED PHOTOGRAPHIC- COPYRIGHT PHOTOGRAPH-NOT TO
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railway, though the inconvenience is minimised by a wide macadamised road having been constructed between those two points. The Railway Company wished to have a station inside the city, but the Chinese authorities would not consent to such a convenient arrangement.
28. We found that very comfortable quarters* had been made ready for us in the building erected in honour of Li Hung-chang, which was finished in 1904 and which had never previously been occupied by Europeans. It is situated on the banks of the Ta Ming Lake † inside the city. The lake extends over a large area and is covered with long reeds and lotus. Along its edges are erected pavilions and temples, and its watera are frequented by many boats, as the lake is a favourite resort of pleasure seekers, especially during the warm weather. We had a beautiful view of the lake from our quarters, and were able to enjoy the cool breezes which blew across it, whilst our less fortunate neighbours in the stuffy streets of the city were experiencing the first heat of summer. Immediately in front of our windows‡ was a kiosk with an inscription written and composed by the Governor reminding us that life is a bubble, a reminder not altogether inappropriate to our feelings when we looked out on the kiosk each morning during our visit after an unending round of visits and entertainments which meant late to bed and early to rise and consequent fatigue. In the room especially reserved for myself were hung antithetical couplets in Chinese, written by officials with whom I had made friends when I was last in Chinan and who seemed pleased when I told them that their literary efforts had much added to the pleasure of my residence in the Li Kung Tz'u.
29.
After a late dinner, at which were present Mr. Clennell, British Consul, and several representatives of the Board of Foreign Affairs, we were not disinclined for rest, having had a long and rather fatiguing day.
30. On Saturday morning, the 19th May, I paid my official visit to His Excellency the Governor. A great deal of curiosity existed among the public regarding the object of my visit, for it seemed difficult to believe that I had come all the way from Weihaiwei simply to repay the Governor's call of last summer. People were also made more sceptical by the fact that it has hitherto not been usual for Europeans to visit Chinan without a desire to urge claims and demands, and because the press, both Chinese and foreign, from Peking to Hong Kong, stated in the most definite and positive manner that my mission was of a political nature. On the night of our arrival at Chinan, Mr. Clennell, our Consul, informed me that he had that day received a copy of the German paper published at Ts'ing-tau in which there was a paragraph announcing my arrival at that place and stating that I was about to proceed as soon as possible to Chinan to negotiate the retrocession to China of Weihaiwei and the building of the railway from Shantung to the Yang tze valley-an invention which has appeared in almost every paper published in the Far East. It must have been a disappointment to those who anticipated the discussion of such matters to discover that my visit was purely one of courtesy, and that no subject which could by the widest stretch of imagination be regarded as political was broached during my visit.
31. The Governor received me and my party with great cordiality, and heartily welcomed us to the capital. He invited us to a banquet in the evening, at which he said would be present representatives of all nationalities resident at Chinan as well as all the higher officials. He stated that he had composed a poem to celebrate my visit, which he had just finished and would send to me. He expressed a hope that the arrangements made for our comfort were satisfactory and informed me that he was the only person who had previously occupied the Li Kung Tz'u, whilst his own official residence was under repairs. He referred to the drought from which the Province had suffered to the detriment of the crops which had necessitated his repairing to the cave of the dragon, situated about ten miles from the City, to pray for rain, which, he added, fell the following day.
82. We then discussed the reforms in education in China, and I expressed a hope that I might be allowed to visit the various educational establishments in Chinan. At the same time I pointed out that the Chinese in the Territory of Weihaiwel had hitherto been allowed to compete at the examinations, but that as the abolition of those examinations would deprive them of that privilege, it was hoped that they would be allowed to enter
↑ Photographs, Vol. II., page 8.
Photographs, Vol. II., page 7.
+ See Photographs, Vol. II., page 8.
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the higher grade schools in China, if they were able to pass the necessary entrance examinations. The Governor, whilst thanking me for taking an interest in the education of the Chinese, promised that he would take steps to let it be known that the Chinese of Weihaiwei would be allowed to enter the higher grade schools in the manner desired.
38. His Excellency referred to the beauty of the scenery of the Ta Ming Lake and when I inquired if he often visited it, he expressed his regret that the official regulations in China were such that whilst he holds office in Chinan he is prohibited from visiting for pleasure the Lake or any other place, the present rules in this respect being quite different from those in force in former times in China when the famous poets of old, such as Su Tung-po, Po Lo-t'ien, and Ou yang-hsiu-who were also officials—were at liberty to wander at will without restrictions such as now exist. We both agreed that, notwith- standing the benefits to be derived from new forms of Government, there are not a few customs of former times that might be, with advantage, revived.
many
34. After our visit to the Governor was concluded, we paid a round of calls on no fewer than twenty-two officials. Among them was the Salt Commissioner, Chang Lien-fen, whom I had previously met when he was holding a post in another part of Shantung and who is now the fourth highest officer in the Province. He referred to the rumour of the retrocession of Weihaiwei and inquired whether there was any truth in it. Having been informed that it was quite unfounded, he stated that in any case it will be necessary to construct a railway from Weihsien to Chefoo and Weihaiwei. If the latter place is to remain in the possession of Great Britain, he regarded a railway as necessary for its commercial development, and if it be returned to China, it will become a station for the Chinese navy, in which case he considered the construction of a railway would be a necessity. I have no doubt that the question of railway construction was raised as a " feeler," but I had no suggestion to offer except to state that improved communications would undoubtedly be of benefit to the Province.
But
35. We lunched at the British Consulate where we learned that social relations with the German residents are somewhat strained. It has long been the established practice in China among fereigners for the old resident to call on the new comer. this also happens to be the British custom, so the Germans at Chinan, who regard themselves socially as well as politically preponderant in Shantung, will have none of it, Mrs. Clennell, the Consul's wife, consequently remains socially a stranger to the German ladies, who refuse to call on her first. This matter, though trifling in itself, is an indication of the attitude of the Germans in Shantung.
36. After lunch we visited the museum which was opened at Chinan in 1904 and is under the superintendence and management of Mr. J. S. Whitewright of the English Baptist Mission. The object of the museum is to bring people of the middle and upper classes, scholars, and officials into friendly contact with the foreigner, and by enlightening them with regard to the knowledge, science, and arts, of the West to remove prejudice and misunderstanding--in short to provide a meeting place where the East and West can come together and learn to understand each other. A small museum illustrating Western science and invention was first opened at Ch'ing-chou-fu in 1897. The scheme proved so successful that new buildings were erected. The largest attendance in one year was over 104,000, the total attendances from the beginning being 835,236. In 1904 it was decided to start an institution at Chinan and new premises were opened by the Governor in December, 1905. The Institution will be completed this year and will include ladies' reception rooms, a lecture hall, a reception room for officials, a museum, a reading room, and library. Since the opening day in December last up to the beginning of May this year, a period of five months, there has been a total number of 166,008 visitors, the greatest number in one day being 10,155 on the occasion of a great annual The visitors represent all classes of society and the general attitude of the Chinese towards the Institution is that of keen appreciation. The Governor takes a great interest in it, told me it was doing excellent work, and was loud in his praise of the ability, "tact, and energy of Mr. Whitewright.
fair.
37. From the museum we had to hurry back to our quarters to be in readiness to receive the return visit of the Governor, who arrived punctually at the appointed hour, with all the leading officials, upon whom I had called in the morning. In the Governor's suite was the inevitable photographer, to whom we had all meekly to submit.*
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* See photographa, Vol. II., page 1.
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