TTL

PUBLIC RECORD OFFICE

Reference :-

C.O. 882

3

PUBLIC RECORD OFFICE, LONDON

ALLY WITHOUT PERMISSION OF THE BE REPRODUCED PHOTOGRAPHIC-

COPYRIGHT PHOTOGRAPH-~-NOT TO

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Tringanu did not run inland so far as was generally supposed, but that Pahang extended at the back of Tringanu to the western boundaries of his own State. It appears that but little light can be thrown on this subject of boundaries, even by the natives themselves, and that satisfactory information on this point will be most difficult to obtain. Once every three years Tringanu is visited by a Siamese Commissioner, who carries away with him the "golden rose," as a tribute to the Siamese Government. The rose is valued at 4,000 dollars, and the requisite sum for its manufacture is raised by a poll-tax of 24 c. on every male. Beyond this tax, and a tax of 50 c. per picul on gutta, no impositions seem to be made. Tenths are not taken on any article of commerce, and the Sultan's source of revenue is due mainly to the fact that he himself is the largest trader in the place. The greater part of the trade is carried on with Singapore. Large numbers of cattle are annually exported, both from this State and its neighbour Kalantan, as the large clearings which have been made, especially in the latter State, afford excellent pasture land, when not taken up by the cultivation of paddy. Just outside the Sultan's house, and standing in the middle of the village, is a steep conical mamelon, which is ascended by winding steps cut in the rock, and on the top of which is a stone fort. The Governor visited the fort, which is rectangular in shape and extremely small, its dimen- sions being only some 60 feet by 18 feet. It is armed with 10 rudely-mounted wall pieces, firing over a stone wall 5 feet high and 3 feet thick, and on the face directly fronting the sea are also two brass 24-pounders, with the Portuguese coat of arms inscribed thereon. Before leaving Tringanu, the Sultan expressed his great pleasure at having seen the Governor, and presented him with a most valuable kris, beautifully manufactured and mounted in gold. His great hobby seems to be the purchase of diamond rings, for many of which he has given, however, most exorbitant prices. The Governor was again attended by the spearmen body guard, and at his re-embarkation was honoured with another salute, fired from some guns mounted on the beach. Two large Malay boats also escorted the Governor to the "Pluto," and many of the Chiefs came on board and inspected the vessel, the machinery and engines of which naturally excited their astonishment. What they seemed to be especially delighted with, however, was the cabin accommodation.

Anchor was weighed during the afternoon, and a course shaped for Singora, which lies at the neck of the Malay Peninsula, and which the "Pluto" reached, after experiencing a stiff breeze, on the afternoon of the 19th instant. Steep peaks clothed with verdure, sloping abruptly to the very edge of the water, and crowned in some instances by white-spired "wats" or Siamese pagados, presents a very picturesque appearance, and a marked contrast to the flat sandy beach which stretches further to the northward, and which separates the Gulf of Siam from a large inland ses. During the south-west monsoon, this sea, which is reached by a day's journey from the mouth of the Singora river, is very shallow, its depth not exceeding 1 to 3 feet. During the north-east monsoon, however, the water accumulates to a greater depth. There is a very bad bar at the entrance of the river, the greatest depth of water over which is to be found on the right hand side of the entrance.

The town of Singora is situated about two miles up the river, and is built upon both banks, but principally upon the right bank. It has a mixed population of Siamese, Chinese, and Malays, the Malay village lying the furthest up the river. The Siamese portion of the town is mostly built in brick and stone, in strictly Siamese fashion. It is surrounded on three sides by a stone fortified wall some 20 feet high and 5 feet thick, provided in places with embrasures, but beyond a few old guns the whole has been dismantled. Near the mouth of the river, on the right bank, is an old stone enclosed fort, also now dismantled, the parapet of which is pierced for 32 guns. Another fort is situated on the other bank, at the first bend of the river. One of the most remarkable features of these works is that they have been studiously placed at the foot of hills, from the slopes of which the interiors are quite exposed, and by which they are commanded at extremely short ranges. The administration of Singora is carried on by a Siamese official called the Cho Koon. According to the statement of the Cho Koon himself, this office used to be one of appointment, but it now descends from father to eldest son, the latter of whom during his father's lifetime receives the title of Rajah Muda. The same title is also conferred on the son's son. This is the case at the present moment;

there are two Rajah Mudas, and the Governor on landing was received by the grandson of the Cho Koon, the son having gone to Bangkok. The Cho Koon's house is built according to Siamese ideas, with much colour, painting, and enamel, and many images, and is close to the jetty. The Rajah Muda was attended by several other officials, all of whom went with the Governor to Cho Koon's residence, where the Cho Koon him- self was waiting to receive him. The house is built on three sides of a flagged inner

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court, one side being occupied by a long elephant-house. Two gans stand in the court, one on either side of a large pair of handsome entrance gates. During the course of conversation, the Cho Koon said that he was glad not to have missed the Governor on this, the first visit paid by the Governor of the Straits Settlements to Singora, and he offered his good services to enable the Governor and suite to see the country. All the revenues of Singora are paid to the Siam Treasury; the Cho Koon himself makes his income by trading operations, and there are doubtless certain monopolies attached to the office. Tringanu and Patani pay their "Bunga Mas" to Singora on account of Siam, but it is a curious fact that Kalantan, a country lying between Tringanu and Patani, comes directly under the government of Ligor, a country lying to the N.N.W. of Singora and tributary to Siam, and this has been the case for many years past. The population of Singora is strictly engaged in agricultural pursuits, and large tracts of ground have been cleared in consequence. The Chinese village consists of a line of houses upon either side of a long narrow street running parallel to the river, and seems very thickly populated. The principal articles of trade are small dried fish, and agricultural produce generally.

After some further complimentary conversation and a visit to the town the Governor returned to the "Pluto," and started the same night for Patani, which was reached early the next morning, the 18th instant. Soon after arrival, information was received from a Siamese brigantine, which, together with many schooners and large tongkangs, was anchored off the mouth of the river, that the Rajah of Patani was staying with the Rajah or Kalantan, who is his father-in-law. The Governor decided, however, to visit the town, which is situated on the right bank of the river, some two miles from the mouth, and was much pleased with what he saw during the visit. The entrance to the Patani River is very shallow, and a very wide shoal of sand stretches across the wide estuary. On a sandy spit, which extends from the mouth of the river to Cape Patani, a large quantity of salt is collected by allowing the salt water to evaporate in previously prepared pits. This salt, however, can only be obtained through a farmer who holds the salt farm. Galena and gold are both worked on a hill some little distance inland. The Galena is smelted first of all on the spot, and afterwards in Patani itself. A great deal of ground has been cleared on both sides of the river, and where paddy is not being cultivated excellent grass land supplies its place.

Besides the town of Patani proper, which lies on the right bank, its outskirts stretch on both sides of the river as far as the Rajah's house, which is about 14 miles beyond the town. These outskirts are very picturesquely situated. The houses are built back from the river among the trees and enclosed by rough palings, an open path cleared of trees running between these palings and the banks. Many boats are anchored off the banks, both loading and discharging, and, from the number of people passing to and fro on the river path, the population seems to be hardworking and busy. The Siamese element is almost lost in the town of Patani, which is almost exclusively Malay in its character. There are 100 Chinese in the town, and 1,000 in the whole. State.

The "Plato" left for Kalantan, the last point of call, the same afternoon, and arrived off the mouth of the Kalantan River early on the following morning. As the town of Kalantan lies some 6 miles up the river, and as there had been no opportunity of informing the Rajsh of his Excellency's intended visit, a boat was despatched early ti the morning to apprise the Rajah of this intention. Some four or five hours later, his Excellency and suite, attended by Commander Stirling and some officers of Her Majesty's ship" Thistle," started for the town. A long sand-pit stretches for some distance sea- ward from the south extremity of the entrance to the river, which is broad, but very shallow and rapid; it flows through recent alluvial deposits, and in some places the old channel has evidently silted up. A large population inhabits both banks of the river, engaged in agricultural or fishing pursuits. These banks have been very generally cleared. Several large campongs are passed on the way to the town, which is 6 miles from the Qualls, and a very large number of boats, junks, and tongkangs trade up and down the river. As has been already mentioned, the population of the town and neigh. bourhood number 100,000 souls. beside the women of the population. The Chinese in the country number 2,000. Taxes are imposed on gambier, paddy, salt, and opium. The gold, which used to be extensively worked in the country, is now mid to be exhausted, and but little tin is worked at present. The Rajah of Kalantan, who is a very pleasant old man, and rather a wit, will not permit his subjects to gamble or cock-fight, and there is but little opium smoking amongst the Malay population in this State.

Upon arriving at the town, there was found to be a very great number of junks and boats anchored off the place, which is of considerable extent. The Governor was received B 3

PUBLIC RECORD OFFICE

Reference :-

C.O.

882

3

PUBLIC RECORD OFFICE, LONDON ALLY WITHOUT PERMISSION OF THE

BE REPRODUCED PHOTOGRAPHIC-

COPYRIGHT PHOTOGRAPH—NOT TO

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