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PUBLIC RECORD OFFICE, LONDON
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We landed at the Kampong on the south bank, about a mile inside the bar; and the Orang Kaya Inchi Junid came to meet us, introducing himself as the person in charge. He stated that the Maharajah of Johore has recently established Ungku Mejid at Parit Jawa (Padang) in charge of this district, and that he acts under the Ungku's orders. There is a good path for seven or eight miles along a small stream called "Pagoo," connecting this place with Padang; the latter Settlement being remarkable as the only one of any importance, except in their own territories, which has been established on the coast itself and in no connection with any river.
This south Pagoo is apparently the same place mentioned by Dr. Oxley (Ind. Arch. Journal, vol. iv, p. 351) in describing his visit to the Muar in 1850:-" A Pahang trader came on board and said the Raja had seized four coyans of salt he was taking up the river. We enquired what Raja, and he replied the Raja at Pagoo.' This is a place so small that it altogether escaped our observation."
Now the place is regularly visited by the Maharajah's new line of coasting steamers, which afterwards ascend the river to Linga, said to be fifty miles off. Great interest is being taken in the new pepper plantations at Pangkalan Kota, a short way up. We were told that a schooner with some Europeans had gone to visit them a day or two before.
The disturbances which threatened in 1873 ended with the submission of Wan Idris, who has since died. Tunku Sulong gives no further trouble. The Orang Kaya was evidently glad to receive our visit and to see the flag, but anticipated no further disturbance. He said that all the troublesome people had gone to the Ulu, where they would find kindred spirits among the Johole and Segamet Malays.
Everything was quiet in the river.
We went a short distance up the river, enjoying some fine views of Mount Ophir, but there was no time to visit the pepper gardens.
Returned to the ship about 3 P.M., and sailed for Malacca. The launch had struck in coming out of the river, but rejoined us the same evening in Malacca, late in the evening. Next morning called on the Acting Lieutenant-Governor, who requested Captain Wiseman to give Mr. Trevenen, Civil Service cadet, a passage to Lukut en route for Sungie Ujong. He also advised us to see the Datu Klana of that place, who was in Malacca, and to visit Raja Doud of South Raya, near the Lingie, who was having some trouble with his Chinamen.
On calling at the Datu Klana's house, I was told he had left for Sungie Ujong the previous day, taking for the first time his carriage and horses with him. We overtook him next day in the Eingie.
Showed Captain Wiseman the old tombs on the hill, and managed to decipher about twenty of them in various languages, and to identify many of the Dutch names with the lists given in Valentyn. They would well repay a little study, this being probably the only burial ground where inscriptions are to be found in four different European tongues.
Left Malacca at 8 P.M. under sail, and anchored during the night off Lingie, about two miles from the bar.
The mouth of the river is a fine bay, with low hill ranges, covered with jungle round three parts of it.
20th February.-Crossed the bar in 12 feet of water, and landed at the police station on the Malacca side of the river. There we found the Datu Klana's horses and carriage being shipped up the river to Permatang Passir. Crossed the bay to South Raya, the corporal, an intelligent Malay, accompanying us.
Raja Doud of South Raya is the nephew of Raja Sleyman, shot at Klang in 1869 by Mahdi's men. He received us in a separate "balei," and stated that the dispute among the Chinese was not serious, and that the parties concerned had gone with his approval to Malacca. His little territory, which extends, he said, to Cape Rachado, seemed very flourishing, and he stated there were about sixty separate pepper and gambier plantations, He seemed anxious to receive al which appear to be the principal source of his revenue. visit from the Salangore Residents, and took care to explain that the Yam Tuan was, his only suzerain, and that he had nothing to do with Sungie Ujong.
He ought to construct a pier, for his so-called river was scarcely passable even in the Captain's gig.
Left at 10 A M., and ascended the Lingie in the launch to a mile or so beyond Bukit Tiga, where our Malacca pilot run us aground. We went on in the gig to Matang Passir, and the Data Klana, who was staying here for the night on his way up to Sungie Ujong, received us, and accompanied us to the Datu Muda's place, about three miles
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Both these Datus appeared perfectly satisfied with the new state of things, and reported that everything was quiet now. They appeared to treat each other as equals. But, as we found the Datu Klana's men in charge of the stockades at Sempang and Bukit Tiga, formerly disputed by the Datu Muda among others, he must, of course, now recognize the Data Klana as his Chief.
I introduced Mr. Trevenen to the Datu Klana, who advised him to go to Sungie Ujong by Lukut. He added that he hoped soon to have a good road to Matang Passir, which he seemed to prefer to the proposed Lukut road, though it would be rather longer. He proposed to give one of his horses to Captain Tatham, R.A., the Assistant Resident, and use the other in his phaton on the new Rassa road. He showed entire confidence in the tranquillity and growing prosperity of Sungie Ujong and Lingie.
We landed at both the old stockades. Sempang still looks a very strong one, and might be destroyed with advantage, the few peons in charge being quite useless in case of attack. There were about seven men only, and the same number at Bukit Tiga; though at the latter place the stockade as entirely destroyed when the Governor visited it last May.
As far as I could ascertain, no irregular taxes are now levied in the river. There was none that suffered more till last year, for here there were imposts on the boat, crew, passengers, and cargo, not to speak of the numerous royalties levied on the tin coming down the river. In other places the boat and cargo alone are considered proper subjects of taxation.
We returned to the ship at 8.30 P.M., having met the steam launch on our way down at Permatang Passir.
Anchored in the Lukut bay next morning (Sunday, 21st February), and, after morning Lukat. service, landed at the jetty, and walked to Raja Bot's house. This is not more than three miles up the Sungie Lukut. The appearance of the coast is unlike any other place we saw; the bay is a small and deep one, with a high range of hills coming close down to the sea. This place was the chief tin-producing country between 1830-1860, having a similar position to that now enjoyed by Larut. The two places somewhat resemble each other in their natural features. The hills in the basin of which the tin is found are in both far nearer to the sea than those of Perak, Klang, Salangore, and Sungic Ujong.
Since Raja Jumahat's death, in 1860, the place has been given up to disorder; and both Rajas Bot and Yahya, Jumahat's sons, informed me that the revenue had fallen off from 15,000 dollars a month in their father's day to 500 dollars now. The tin diggings (the word mines gives a false impression), which lie close to the village are now almost entirely abandoned; but I understand the revenue did not gradually decline, but fell off through disorders. If so, the mines would probably still deserve attention. It was said that the old Chinese miners were quite satisfied with Sungie Ujong, where most of them have found their way, and would never return to these old washed-out water-logged pits; but, to judge from what has recently happened in Larut, it might be worth their while to do so.
It is probable that there also, if twelve years had elapsed instead of two, the Chinese miners would have sought other fields during the late disturbances. Lukut may yet be revived, as it was after the previous riots in 1834.
Raja Yahya showed us over his father's old fort on the hill where he resides. This is the Raja mentioned in the Parliamentary Papers on Salangore (p. 27), but he said he did not interfere any more in Langat affairs." "The Rio and Salangore Malays were at peace, and Mahdi's family quarrel was over." He mentioned most of the familiar names of Mahdi's partisans; Syed Massahor and Raja Laut were at Perak, Asal in the Ulu Bernam, Berkat was at Langat, and Mahdi and Mahmood in Singapore. He spoke of the disturbances as "settled."
At about 2 P.. the new postal boat from Malacca made its appearance, bringing on the mail from Singapore. The passage might be made quicker, but it was surprising to find such a convenience as a postal service in such a place; for, except in its substantial old houses, there are no traces of its former prosperity.
The police station established here might be in better order. The native corporal in charge had "lost" his uniform, and no discipline appeared to be kept up. The station is in rather an exposed situation, but no sentries are placed either day or night. How- ever, no one anticipated any disturbance; but, on the contrary, they all spoke of Captain Tatham's appointment in Sungie Ujong as a complete guarantee.
We left Mr. Trevenen here en route for that place, which was too far inland for us to visit ourselves.
The next morning, 22nd February, got under way at 3 A.M., and anchored of Jugra at 10 A.M., grounded on the bar in the launch, and as the tide was falling we returned to