į
The following morning we left Chimirang and jour- neyed through Hooded lands until 1 p. m. when we reached a rancho known as Arroya de Cardon, the resi- dence of a civilisado, Señor Manwell Antonio Cayón, Here we found good pasture lands and rested our ani- mals that afternoon. The next morning we discovered that two of our horses were sick, having, it was sup- posed, eaten poisonous herbs at Chimirang; we were therefore obliged to leave these behind and both subse- quently died. This delayed our departure as we had to replace these animals. Señor Cayón, however, came to our rescue and we were able to leave towards midday, he also very kindly accompanied us, together with an Indian guide, as far as Carraipia. The country we passed through was less Hooded, though we had a difficulty in crossing a few streams. We passed through excellent grazing lands, alternating with bush formed largely of a small spreading tree known locally as carbonal, in repute as being the only local source of charcoal that can be employed by blacksmiths and silver-- smiths. At dusk we reached the guinea-grass pastures to which I have before referred relating to our first journey. Darkness, however, soon overtook us and we lost our track in the tall grass. We wandered about for hours in the dark before discovering the track which leads to the village of Carraipia, and only reached there at 10.30 at night, the inhabitants being apprised of our arrival by a turnout of all the dogs in the pueblo. The following day being Sunday we remained at Carraipia and rested the animals. I made a short jour- ney in the neighboring forest, where I found ebony trees fairly abundant, as well as a variety of other serviceable timber trees. From Carraipia we left of the 6th to ascend the adjacent range of hills. We rode as far as Caguasumana, the point from which we were to proceed on foot, and here made our camp. At this rancheria which is situated on the foot hills of the hill range. I noticed that ticks were very abundant; I have already mentioned that ticks are not found on the plains. I also observed that the Indians appeared less healthy than those of the plains, owing probably to the denser forest growth and the less open surroundings. In this locality. Señor Bartolo, who accompanied us from Carraipia, has considerable areas of bananas under cultivation; bananas are not grown by the Indians of the plains. Vanilla is found in the forests of this local- ity, but as the plants were not in fruit, I cannot say if it may be of any economie importance.
Carraipia Range.
On the 7th I set out to ascend the hills, accompanied by Señores Morales and Bartolo and a few Indians. We ascended by way of the river Cañoseco, but our progress was impeded by heavy rains. We had to hack our way through, there being no track. I was informed that no civilisado had been known to climb these kills or to have attempted to do so. The hill slopes are covered with forest growth. there are cedar trees of considerable size; but the larger and most abundant tree is that known locally as Caracoli (Anacardium rhinocarpus. D. C.). an immense tree from which the cayucos or dug-out canoes are made. The soil of this
12
hill range is, on the whole, good, and the lower parts should prove suitable for cacao. The plains extending from the hills should form excellent lands for a battana- growing proposition; though, in the main, covered with guinea-grass they would be more appropriately and profitably utilized for cattle ranching.
On the morning of the 8th we returned to Carraipia, and on the 9th we left for Sierra de la Teta. We jour- neyed from 9 a. m. till 3.30 p. m., when we were obliged to camp as we encountered a caño in flood which we could not cross. From Carraipia we passed through ex- tensive pastures of guinea-grass on which we saw not a single animal; following this we journeyed through immense sabanas of natural grass (Aristida setifolia. H. B. & K.), varied with occasional pantanos or swampy expanses covered with the sensitive plant (Mimosa pudica). We completed the latter part of this day's journey in exceptionally heavy rains; one aguacero came from the Carraipia range met by another from the sea on the opposite side, and we rode for nearly two hours through a terrible downpour of rain.
Crossing a Caño.
In the morning the caño had only slightly abated, as a vast area of surrounding country was still draining off its surface water into it. However, we decided to cross, and having attached a rope to a tree on either side of its banks, we took advantage of a large travelling bath that I was fortunate to possess, and swimming one on each side of the bath, to prevent it capsizing. we gradually crossed all the loads in this way. Ha ing crossed, we resumed our journey and reached.. rancheria known as Zororuma in the afternoon where we camped. This day we passed through excellent grazing lands composed chiefly of an excellent gra known as cadilla, it forms good pasture much liked by the animals and is a grass which would be worth intr ducing to other parts of Colombia, We also notel very extensive cultivations of millet, beans, etc.; in many cases these were situated long distances from the habita- tions of the Indians. This part of Goajira struck me as being particularly suitable for the cultivation of groundnuts, a plantation industry which might be en couraged amongst the Indians by the free distributi of seed for planting, by the Government. Zoruruma an Indian settlement of considerable size, the Indians possessing large herds of cattle, sheep and goats.
Cemerchi.
On the 11th we set out from Zoruruma with a guide to continue our journey to the Sierra de la Teta, which we had to deviate somewhat in order to replace some of our animals. The first two hours journey was through verdant sabanas, but the rest of the day was through inundated lands. We travelled from 10.30 a. m. till mid- night, we first traversed a pantane over a mile long with a depth of water of three to four feet, and following that we travelled for eight leagues in water scarcely seeing dry land. We were obliged to travel on till midnight. not encountering dry land on which we could camp on the way. At midnight we reached an Indian rancheria known as Cemerchi, and our arrival having
Crossing a Caño In Gon]Ira, Bubsiltuting « Bath for Canoe
been duly notified by the numerous dogs, the inhabi. tants came forth with their rifles and bows and arrows, fearing. I presume, that we must be a hostile party arriving at that unusual hour. We were eventually received in a friendly manner and accorded a leaky rancho in which to pass the night, and being exhausted from the trying journey dropped into our hammocks and fell asleep.
Sierra de la Teta.
On the 12th we found that our animals were tou exhausted to proceed, and Colonel Morales took the opportunity of visiting a rancheria a few leagues distant belonging to a family connection called Ramoncito, in order to arrange an exchange of some of the transport animals. The other members of our party occupied themselves in an endeavour, between showers, to dry our wet clothes and belongings.
The next day we left with another guide for the Sierra de la Teta, which we reached early in the after- noon. The road to La Teta from Cemerchi was awful. at times through water up to a metre in depth for con- siderable distances, varied only by sodden soft land in which the horses often sunk up to their bodies and had to be extricated with assistance. We were, how- ever, glad to arrive at La Teta. as here the atmosphere was drier and more bracing.
On the 14th four of us, accompanied by six Indians. set out to climb the mountain. My main object was to examine the vegetation to ascertain if it differed from that of the plains and contained anything of impor- tance. I found, however, that it did not differ materially from the flora of the plains, only in that a species of Bursera was more common than on the plains. The Indians informed me that Colonel Morales and myself were the first persons apart from Indians who had
climbed the mountain or had attempted to do so. From the top. which is a huge rock broken up by time and weather, an excellent view of the surrounding country is obtained. I had been informed that petroleum is found in this locality, but on making inquiry I was told that nothing was known of its existence; whether this is so, or whether the Indians do not wish anything to be known of it. I do not know.
La Teta to Castilletes.
The following day we proceeded late in the morning from the Sierre de la Teta for Castilletes. We followed a track between the Cosina hills and the Venezuelan Coast, through beautiful and extensive sabanas afford- ing unlimited pasture. The Codilla grass, to which I have referred, is here found in abundance. In height and appearance it is not unlike wheat, except that the spikes are purplish in colour; in fact, these vast fields of cadilla may be aptly described as black wheat, A variety of this grass affords spikes which produce a dye that may with cultivation probably be turned to com- mercial account. I have noted this remarkable grass growing in all types of land, from sandy soil to heavy clay, and it appears to be very hardy, often assuming entire possession of the land. Throughout these vast sabanas we saw not a single animal! What excellent pasture is being lost, while in other parts of the country heavy forest lands are being felled to convert into grazing lands.
The Cosina Country.
To the left of our track lay the hills inhabited by the Cosinas, the most hostile of all the Goajiran Indians. This was the most dangerous part of our journey, and my good friend. Colonel Morales, kept urging us to keep together in case of a possible attack from these
125
|
!