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October 20.-This place was built by a general as a picket 30 years ago and then abandoned. The present keeper does not pay taxes. He says that water is brought from a distance of 10 miles in troughs but I did not verify this.
The day was vile, snow falling heavily all the morning. We ascended steadily all day and travelling was terrible. We halted after 20 miles at Santai (3rd tai) on the shores of Sairam Noor, a wonderfully picturesque lake in its present cold setting of snow-clad mountains. The natives say it takes two days to go round the lake,
We had now reached a height of 5,900 feet above sea level, the ground was deep with snow and the cold intense. Some fir forests on the mountain slopes provide plenty of firewood. October 21-Snow fell steadily all day, and being driven by a southerly wind penetrated to every corner of the carts. Keeping along the lake for some little distance, we parted company for a short time to descend to it again at mile 10, at the picket of Kosekou at the foot of the short steep pass of Talki. Here we had to halt for an hour, to allow some carts in the narrow gorge leading up to the Talki pass from the south to emerge, The distance from the picket to the top of the pass cannot be more than a quarter of a mile, but we took 14 hours to climb it. The track, which is really steep, zigzags up the hill, and even at ordinary times must be a hard pull for the Chinese carts; with heavy snow on the ground the ascent is slippery and still more difficult. To add to our troubles we fell into a snow-drift some 3 feet deep, and all the flounderings of the mules availed nothing. They had to be unharnessed and the cart dug out; there were two other carts going over and three coming down; as we were all in the same plight, we formed a mutual aid society, Immediately on reaching the top of the pass we descended into the Talki gorge, so fainous for its beauty. Descending steadily the whole time the road winds down the coils of the dragon-like gorge, which is scarcely more than 30 yards wide. The steep sides are covered with firs. The mountains retain their height as the traveller descends, and they become more gigantic and splendid at each turn of the road. The roadway, which is artificial, judging by the stones and staves which mark its course, is excellent, except that in winter the snow entirely conceals the edge. Even in summier the traveller is in danger of being hurled into the rock-strewn stream below, but in winter the danger is vastly greater. Strong wooden bridges, in an excellent state of repair, cross the stream at times, their position being indicated by posts. The snow was, however, very difficult, and drifts several feet deep threatened to stop us.
We struggled through to Errhtai (second tai), some 32 miles down the gorge. The ina and the few other buildings were almost concealed by the snow drifts, and the yard so blocked up that entry was almost impossible. The inn was one of the most wretched I had ever seen.
October 22.-The day was superb; what little of the sky that could be seen from the gorge was a deep blue, and the whole ravine sparkled in the sunlight. The cold had been so great during the night that our breath froze on the outer rug of the bed. The mules looked miserable for their sheds were opon buildings. We continued our mutual aid society and left-a long line of ten carts-for some of the carts of the Hassacks had to be used to relieve the heavily-laden carts of the bigger loads. The day was, however, wasted as regards travelling, for we had only ploughed our way through deep snow (checked every 20 yards or so by a 5-foot deep drift, which had to be spaded away) for half a mile, when we were stopped by a drift which even, after three-quarters of an hour's work, was too big to allow us to pass. Although it was nearly as difficult to turn, for on either side of the track were deep dangerous drifts into which the mules floundered, we had to risk being hurled down the precipice, and returned to the inn for the rest of the day. The picket of fifteen men were sent forward to open the road; these were joined by the carters. There are said to be fifty soldiers looking after the road, and, as this is their only duty, I had no compunction in sending them out. We must pass to-morrow for we have run short of provisions.
A long line of camels passed up from the south in the evening, and it was reported that the big snow only lay for another 2 miles. In the late afternoon two workers reported that the road was passable.
October 23.--We could not leave till late, for the reason that the Hassacks bad sat up all night gambling and slept late. When they had to pay their bill, one of them had no money, having lost it all to his colleagues. They were all quarrelsome, and complaining of the food, the prices, and the fodder. There was thus all the makings of a row, and we had to let the brutes move about at their own pace, for fear of their knives.
These Hassacks come here in the winter and summer to make money by their carts in the heavy snow and rains when the ordinary heavy travelling carts bave to pass light,
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and, indeed, unload altogether. The big Hassack carts are more easy for the road. They charge 33 taels a-piece, and only carry two boxes each. They could really charge what they liked, for one has got to get through somehow. Every one pays a little to the pioneer cart to go first; if he decides to go back they must all go, and if to go forward they must all follow suit,
When we did start we got along all right as far as where we were stuck yesterday, Their idea was just but the soldiers' idea of an open road entirely differed from ours. to clear a narrow track for foot-passengers; this was quite useless for carts, so we stuck again, and after many efforts to get through the Hassacks voted for return to camp. We got the best of them, but more by threats of personal violence than by any other kind of persuasion. It was simply a question of the first cart getting through, and the rest could follow. We therefore concentrated our attentions and energies on the first cart (and carter!). The soldiers were said to be working on ahead (their only implements were wooden spades, and they were resting a good deal, being weedy opium sots), but we gradually forced our way through to them. They were working on the last bad bit, an upward incline of some 40 yards, and had to cut through drifts 8 feet high. Even when the path was cut it was terrible work for the mules, for they were practically It took seven horses to pull the first pulling the whole time belly deep in the snow. cart through, but, once done, all was over, for the snow beyond never lay more than 2 feet deep, in addition to which we met hundreds of camels coming up, and these are capital animals for treading down a track,
Passing a couple of habitations down the gorge we reached Totai at mile 8. From Totai There are only soldiers here and no inn, so we had to continue the march.
later.
we got a view of the plain to the south and over across this to the mountains beyond.
Descending very abruptly after leaving Totai we were out on the plain 12 miles We had spent so many hours battling with the snows that night had already fallen as we emerged from the Talki gorges. Keeping over the plain 9 miles we reached Lusakou, one of the hsien cities which form the Government district of Ilifu, Of two inns here one was full; we could obtain no supplies at the other, and the shops were all closed and refused to sell us anything; we therefore had to go to bed supperless.
October 24.-We only got through the mountains in time, for heavy snow fell on them all day. We got rid of our Hassack carts here, and resumed our heavy baggage, Two of our ponies died in the night from exposure in the mountains; they had been ailing all yesterday.
The chief officer of the town and also the colonel sent cards early in the morning with the usual inquiries. Two soldiers of different types called. The one was the representative of the old school. He told me there were 100 soldiers here, 50 cavalry and 50 infantry, but I doubt there being more than the old type, and they only do escort and such work. Besides which 100 on the register by no means indicates the He real strength. The other man was more interesting, for he was of the Luchün. was a sergeant, and told me that seven men were stationed here; 700 had come last year from Hupei, trained by the Hupei military school. Of these 700, 240 had been sent to Ili, the rest being retained at Urumtsi. His pay was 25 taels a-month, that of a soldier 5 t. 20 c. He was dressed in a neat tight-fitting black uniform, and carried a sword. His high boots were of leather, and his cap of foreign type, black, with plenty of gold braid. He was excellently disciplined, very respectful, and stood at attention the whole time we were talking.
Keeping towards the south-east over rough uninteresting ground we reached at mile 9 the line of trees which marks Suidun and entered the town at mile 144. The busy trading quarter of Suidun lies to the south of the small walled portion of the town. The inns do a It is entered by wooden gates and protected by a low mud wall. tremendous business, but accommodation is wretched.
In this town reside the Chentai (General) and the Chibfu. I called on the latter on the 24th October. He is an amiable old gentleman of 66 years, thirty-four of which he has served in Sinkiang. He speaks no foreign language. He confirmed what I had already heard that the Russians keep a guard of a sergeant and ten men at Suidun, in the interests of trade. He seemed to think it quite natural. I subsequently called on the Chentai's secretary, the Chentai being, as I knew, still absent on his Chuguchak trip, The secretary, a military official, is a man of 58, friendly and amiable, but does not speak any foreign language. He has visited Russia frequently, and has a great number of Russian officer friends-he showed me dozens of photographs. His son, a man of 27, takes photographs like a professional, and even enlarges them himself.
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