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are of bard loess; they are entered by two gates, both of European, and not Chinese, pattern. They are in the north and south walls respectively, but are not opposite each other, Outside the walls are cultivated fields, the nearest buildings lying to the south some 700 yards away where there is, on a slight natural eminence rising from the plain, a Catholic village mostly in ruins. Inside the walls is a small village entirely Christian numbering seventy families, probably 400 souls in all. The houses are of mud, small, and squalid. Facing the south gate and quarter of the way across to the north wall is a small chapel, and there is another half way down the east wall. In the west centre is the large well-built church of St. Jacques, which from a distance more resembles a château than a church. To the north of this there is a low belfry. West of the church is a small court-yard, round which are: to the north, sleeping rooms; to the west, trees and Bishop's chapel; to the south, refectory, sleeping rooms, kitchen, and "sainte-enfance". (establishment for girls as at Hsiao Chiao supervised by Sisters- Chinese); to the east, church and sacristy. Between this court-yard and the west wall is a fine garden half filled with tall trees such as poplars, willows, &e. In the north- west corner is situated the low boys' college buildings consisting of chapel, cubicles, priest's room and class room. This last is furnished with benches and desks as a European one; mathematics, geography, reading, and writing (Chinese only) are taught. The college contains thirty boys: these are sent to their homes for a month in the very hot weather and also for a short time at the Chinese New Year. From time to time a European priest takes them out into the country for a week or so for some practical education. The class-room referred to differs from a European one in one way that close to the entrance stands a tall jarfull of water, for the students learn their lessons à la chinoise, i.e., by shouting them out constantly at the tops of their voices and consequently grow thirsty very soon in the hot weather.
The Boxer year did not spare the district, but the bands seem to have waited for the fall of Hsiao Chiao before boldly attacking Santauho, In spite of their ill-success in the south of the Ordos the bands became especially aggressive in September of 1900-a month after the rising had been crushed in Peking-and the fifteen European priests of the district, unable to persuade the native Christians to defend Sanchungkung, had to flee across the Gobi to Urga and theuce to Europe. They would not have to do so another time for the fortress walls have been strengthened, arins and ammunition are stored within them, and the success of the Isiao Chiao stronghold in 1900 has emboldened the native Christians of Santauho. The Boxers damaged many of the villages round about Sanchungkung, but the native Christians were not massacred, nor was the mission property inside the walls much injured. The books and buildings were damaged and desecrated as was also the cemetery containing the remains of some early priests, but the buildings were not destroyed. The mission subsequently demanded an indemnity of 30,000 taels (4,5007.) from the King of Alashan, who being unable to pay handed over a certain amount of land to the mission to be held by them until His Majesty should pay the money. This the King says he is now prepared to do, but difficulties have arisen which make it unlikely that a settlement will be arrived at for some time. I gathered that the difficulties were in connection with the crops growing on the land to be returned and which should soon be harvested, the farmers requiring compensation. But it must be added that there appear to be contributory dilatoriness on the part of the Alashan Government. The Duke, the King's eldest son, was to have gone to Lanchowfu in May to meet the Bishop at the Viceroy's yamên and settle the matter. He did not however go, but sent word that he would meet the Bishop at Ninghsia on the latter's return. He again failed to keep his tryst and sent another message to the effect that he would come to Santauho to settle the matter. He has now requested the Bishop to visit the Prince's residence, Fumafu, instead, As the mission, however, have the strongest distrust of the Russians and are well aware that Russian influence is all-powerful with the Alashan Monarch, this invitation is hardly likely to be accepted.
The mission viewed the approach and progress of the Russo-Japanese war with serious alarm. They hold the somewhat wild opinion that had Russia proved victorious she would have included Mongolia as far as and including Alashan in the fruits of her victory. The mission are now equally alarmed because they think that Russia, having been baulked in Manchuria and Corea, is devoting more attention than ever to Mongolia and is increasing the thickness of the webs which she has been spinning over Alashan. And in all this the mission see a grave menace to themselves, for Russia has never tolerated missionaries and should Mongolia ever pass into her bands the Missions must pack up and leave.
In conclusion, I must state that the missionaries are doing much charitable work
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and spreading civilization. In the Santauho district they have organized the digging and upkeep of the irrigation canals and have done benefit to the whole neighbourhood thereby. At the same time they act as arbiters as to the use of the water in the canals. This is an exceedingly difficult task at all times, but especially if there be but little water in the canals. For this, cuch village priest has organized a system of tickets, and only the ticket-holder may draw water from the canal on such and such a day. If the water is plentiful, the number of tickets issued is larger. The priests seem to fail, however, in settling differences of opinion between Mongols and Chinese living side by side in their parish, and in consequence have frequently to transplant their Mongol parishioner, sending him down to the Borobalgasson district to live.
Unfortunately, neither Chinese nor Mongol can appreciate the courage and devotion of these men who leave civilization behind them for ever, for except in rare cases once here they never return to Europe.
December 1908.-I learnt subsequently at Kuldja that the differences between the mission at Santauho and the King of Alashan have been settled, but no details were to hand.
May 18.-Leaving in a west-south-westerly direction we recrossed the ravine at a different point, and ascending the other side took a well-defined road leading to the south-west, and along this we marched, keeping some low hills some 3 miles to our left. Crossing some sand-hills we reached Ning tiao liang after two and a-half hours, and stopping the night at a good inn close to the east entrance to the town. The population of Ningtiaoliang and district is said to be about 3,000--Chinese not Mongols. There are 100 soldiers here under a sergeant. The town was formerly larger and more important --it still retains its importance as a name-but suffered severely during the Mahom- medan rebellions; the number of ruins in and around the town testify to the ferocity with which these were suppressed.
May 19.-All supplies are plentiful and cheap here: opium, it is worth noting, costs 20 cents here for the same amount as fetches a tael (3s.) in Peking. The repression of the Mahommedan rebellions having resulted in the decrease in population of these parts, a number of Shantung men were imported some five years ago to fill the gaps; most of these remain to this day.
Our direction lay west as far as Anpienpu, some 23 miles from Ningtiaoliang. The country is bare and bleak, except near the numerous farms and until the neighbourhood of Anpienpu is reached, when the land appears to be fertile and entirely cultivated.
The road is the high road to Ninghsia, and there is a certain amount of traffic along it, chiefly mules and donkeys bearing skins and opium. A number of pedlars are also to be met carrying needles, thread, combs, face powder, ribbons, &c, We passed a great number of ruined farms all the day. Five hundred yards before reaching Anpienpu, passing through the Great Wall, we re-entered China. The Wall runs across the plain here, and is a long mud mound with towers at near intervals. It is in good repair considering its age. The town is a small walled city of the ordinary pattern. Supplies are plentiful but dear. It is governed by a Manchu. The population is entirely giveu up to agriculture. A few make straw hats. There is a garrison of 100 inefficient soldiers.
Turning north-west we kept parallel with the Great Wall, first on one side of it and then on the other, the road never being more than 50 yards away from it. The country is level, bleak and uncultivated; farms are rare. The population is Chinese, not Mongol. After six hours we reached the once powerful fortress of Shihchingtzu, now almost entirely deserted by its inhabitants, and whose walls, still perfect, are much threatened by the continuously invading sand-drifts. Five hours later we halted for the night at the small walled city of Tingpienhsien, inside the wall. Here there is said to be a garrison of 400 soldiers of the old type. The wheels of the carts in use locally are curious, they are 7 feet high, and yet comparatively light for their size.
During the next few days we marched in a north-west direction, over for the most part bleak uninteresting country, and passing small district towns (such as Hua ma schwang, Ningchialiang, Tien chiehchwang, Shakengchwang) in a considerable state of decay. The inns were miserable and supplies, though plentiful, often dear. Of the traffic met the chief articles were wool and skins, which it is casier to send by this tremendous journey over- land to Tien-tsin than by means of the Yellow River, an interesting but lamentable fact. Possibly when a railway reaches Kweihuachaig the Yellow River will be used for the conveyance of these as far as Bautu. At Shakengchwang the chief occupation is grubbing up the liquorice root, it is picked and sorted here, and exported by camel. Worth here 14 cents a cutty, the same weight is sold for 14 dollars in Peking.
D.