Hell among
the inevitable "interviewers"
of the boat journals. One of them has published in his newspaper the
enclosed notes of my recent journey. They are generally accurate, though imperfect both in suatter and in
:
style.
の
I
annex also an
translated from
Enclosure
extract Enclosures
an article in one
of
the Chinese venacular newspapers
published at Hongkong, which
comments
on any
my recent journey.
5.7.13.
(1)
SOME NOTES OF H. E. THE GOVERNOR'S JOURNEY TO
THE NORTH.
His Excellency left Hongkong for Shang-bai on the 3rd September in the Indo-China Steam Navigation Company's steamer Po-sun. It seems that His Excellency had intimated his wish to confer with Sir Harry Parkes on several matters connected with the Government of Hongkong, in its relations to the neighbouring Empire; and the newly-appointed British Minister in China had invited Sir George to meet him in Shanghai in the early part of September. The voyage to Shanghai was very pleasant, and His Excellency speaks highly of the Po-sun. On arriving in Shang-hai, His Excellency Sir Harry Parkes, who had only just arrived from Japan, gave the Governor a pressing invitation to go on with him to Peking, where all the official papers required in a discussion on Hongkong affairs would be at hand, and where they could discuss more at their leisure the matters Sir George Bowen wished to be taken into consideration. After a stay in Shanghai of three or four days, during which Sir George saw as much of the "Model Settlement" as possible, His Excellency left it in the Koushing, on engage to Chefoo and Tientsin.
Shanghai very favourably impressed His Excellency, and he thinks it is thoroughly deserving of the name of the "Model Settlement." He wired its fine bund, bordered with trees, its substantial and handsome buildings, its Public Gardens, and splendid roads; indeed Sir George even went so far as to say the bund reminded him of the Thames Embankment. Everywhere he observed signs of the advantages of local self-government; for the settlement is governed by a freely elected Municipality, which has complete control over the Police, the public works, and all other local affairs.
Chefoo, the Governor thought, had been aptly termed the Brighton of China. The voyage from Chefoo to Tientsin was made in the s/s Nancing, another admirably appointed steamer of Messrs Jardine, Matheson & Co.
At Tientsin, His Excellency had several interviews with the great Viceroy, the "Bismarck of China," Li Hung Chang, by whom he was received with marked distinction. In the course of one of these interviews, an interesting conversation ensued. Li Hung Chang expressed himself strongly in favour of peace and progress. Telegraphs and railways would, he thought, be of great benefit to China, but in his endeavours to introduce these means of progress he had met with a great deal of opposition from the "country gentry" and the literati. Sir George Bowen consoled Li Hung Chang with the remark that he recollected when the country gentlemen of England, and the literati of that kingdom, were generally opposed to the introduction of railways. About the year 1835, said His Excellency, by way of instance, the universities of Oxford and Cambridge, the chief seats of learning in England, petitioned Parliament against railways being allowed to come near their cities. He had, however, lived to see progress overthrow all these obstructions in England, and he hoped that the next generation of Chinese would overthrow all similar obstructions in China.
While Li Hung Chang is in favour of peace and progress, the impression formed by His Excellency during his trip to the North is that China is preparing for war, if inevitable. He witnessed the warlike preparations made at the Taku Forts, which repulsed the allied French and English Fleet in 1859. He was impressed with the present defensive strength of these fortifications, which are mounted with heavy Krupp guns. An American officer in charge of the Chinese Torpedo corps, told His Excellency that it alone would prove a most formidable obstruction to any hostile fleet. The Peiho reminded His Excellency of the Tiber—in its breadth, the colour of its waters, and the strength of the current.
Li Hung Chang entertained His Excellency in Tientsin at a magnificent banquet,
to which the British and French Ministers
were also invited. It was an admirably arranged and successful affair. Li Hung Chang's official residence is in the native city, but he has had a new Palace built in the foreign style on the bund, containing handsome and spacious drawing rooms, dining rooms, and the other appurtenances of a European mansion. The banquet was held there. About forty guests sat down to the banquet, which was served with much taste and splendour. The following was the menu, which was printed in Chinese and English:----
BILL OF FARE. 菜单 Ox-tail Soup. 盒子牛尾汤 Clear Chicken and Duck Soup. 燕菜鸡鸭清汤 Hui-wang, baked. Honeyed Ham. 蜜炙南腿 Entrees. Fish. 生烧鳇鱼 Patés à la financière. 烤麫盒 Heroes Meat. 清汤仙来 Mutton Cutlets. 煎羊牌骨 Dried Bamboo Shoots. 红烧笋干 Aspic of foie gras. 冷冻鸭干 Fish Sinews and Pigeon eggs. 红烧鱼翅鸽蛋 Roast. Turkey with Ham. 火鸡火腿 Mushroom soup. 口蘑汤 Sweets. Custard Pudding. 洋芋头 Almond tea. 杏仁茶 Purée of Chestnuts. 栗子粉 Rice Pot-pourri. 八宝饭 Dessert. Biscuits. Fruits. 20th September, 1883.Various European wines were taken round after the European courses, and Chinese wines, and liqueurs in silver goblets after the Chinese courses. After the banquet Li Hung Chang proposed, through one of his secretaries, who spoke in French, the health of the two foreign ministers present, and the health of the Governor of Hongkong. They acknowledged the compliment, and proposed the health of His Excellency Li Hung Chang. These were the only toasts. The Imperial Chinese Band played during the proceedings. This band numbers thirty members, who are dressed in uniform and play the usual European instruments, under the direction of a French bandmaster. They performed the following selection very creditably on this occasion:--
1. MARCH "Mama ni lo ha t'u,"....Biel.
2. FANTASIA "Lucrezia Borgia,"...Donizetti.
3. POLKA...... Zick Zack,
4. CONCERT "Redowa,"
Lubitzky.
5. CHINESE FANTASIA for "Soo-na,"...Biel.
6. QUADRILLE....."Popular,”.
A. BIGEL,
Banda Director
The Band played "God Save the Queen" on the arrival of Sir George Bowen and of Sir Harry Parkes, and "La Marseillaise" on the arrival of the French Minister.
The Viceroy, in the course of one of his conversations with Sir George Bowen, mentioned that he was 62 years of age, and that he no longer felt the same vigour, as when he put down the Taiping rebellion with the help of his friend Colonel Gordon.
"Then," said Sir George, "Your Excellency was born in the year 1821, in which the great Napoleon died. Nature abhors a vacuum, and has evidently created in you a new Napoleon of the East to replace the Napoleon of the West." The Viceroy appears to have been pleased by this compliment, for turning to the English Consul, he said "tell the Governor that I place my steam yachts at his disposal to tow His Excellency's boat up the Peiho."