remitted all punishment for whatever might have been
recorded against him in his official capacity at any
period ; as if there could be no doubt that every man
who ultimately obtained high distinction in China
must have been more or less a rogue at some period
of his career .
Before the fighting at Chinhae commenced , Yu-Keen
delivered his seals of office to aa faithful officer, to be car
ried back to the provincial capital ; and when at length
he saw the day was lost, he coolly walked down to the
river's bank, and there, having performed the ceremony
of the Kotow, looking towards the imperial city, he
threw himself into the water. It was afterwards ascer
tained that about fourteen more Chinese officers were
killed, or else destroyed themselves.
Many of the wounded men were very carefully
attended by our medical officers, to whom the greatest
credit is due for their exertions in the cause of
humanity. Several poor fellows submitted to ampu
tation cheerfully, and most of them recovered . There
was one poor woman accidentally wounded , who, with
the written consent of her husband, underwent the
operation for amputation of the leg, and for some
days was cheerful, and went on well , but ultimately
she died .
CHINESE CARICATURES . 225
TARTAR AND ENGLISH SOLDIERS FIGHTING .
ENGLISH FORAGING PARTY .
CHINESE CARICATURES.
VOL . II . Q
226 CHINESE MECHANICS .
It is an error to suppose that the Chinese are altoge
ther averse to change any of their established practices,
however opposed the government may be, as a matter
of policy, to every kind of innovation in the usages
of the people. In the strictly mechanical arts, no
people are more ready to adopt, or more expert in
applying, any new methods which they can comprehend,
and which appear better adapted than their own to
attain the desired object ; but their imitations of
things are notoriously ludicrous. At Chinhae, four
newly -cast guns were found, precisely after the model
of some carronades which had been recovered from the
wreck of the Kite, and they were not by any means bad
specimens.
In the construction of their new gun-carriages,
several striking improvements had been copied from
ours, and, in this and other instances, it was thought
that they must have employed people to take sketches
for them . The most remarkable innovation , however,
and one which points out their extreme ingenuity,
was the discovery of some machinery intended to be
applied to the propulsion of their junks, resembling
paddle -wheels. This curious invention has been allu
ded to in the early part of the work , but the actual
machinery used for the purpose was now first disco
vered . There were two long shafts, to which were
to be attached the paddle -wheels, made of hard wood ,
about twelve feet in diameter ; there were also some
strong wooden cog -wheels nearly finished, which were
intended to be worked by manual labour inside the
vessel . They were not yet fitted to the vessels ; but
CHARACTER OF THE CHINESE . 227
the ingenuity of this first attempt of the Chinese, so
far north as Chinhae, where they could only have seen
our steamers during their occasional visits to Chusan,
when that island was before occupied by us, cannot but
be admired .
A walk round the ramparts of Chinhae was sufficient
to give a good idea of Chinese towns in general, and of
the construction of their walls, which in some parts
could not be less than forty feet thick. Beyond the
town the long sea-wall was a remarkably fine specimen
of masonry, composed entirely of large blocks of hewn
granite, sloping upwards. The whole of China, in fact,
appears to present to view astonishing instances of
mixed civilization and barbarism , of advancement and
of stagnation, in all the relations of life. Civilization
appears to float upon the surface ; you observe so much
of social order and sobriety, and hear so much of pa
ternal care and filial obedience, that you are half in
clined to think they must be a very moral, humane, and
happy people. Again, you witness such proofs of inge
nuity, such striking results of industry and of combi
nation of labour in their public works and buildings,
canals, embankments, &c., that you are inclined to
believe their institutions must have something good in
them at bottom .
But, when you look aa little deeper below the surface,
you are astonished at the many evidences of barbarism
and cruelty which militate against your first impressions.
The use of torture in the hands of government officers
is less striking, not only because it has been in use in
Christian Europe within the last half century, but also
Q2
228 CRUELTY OF THE CHINESE .
because, the obligation of an oath being unknown in
China, as well as a future state of reward or punish
ment, there is in some cases no other mode of extracting
evidence than this cruel, unjust, and much -abused in
strument of violence. It is more difficult, however, to
perceive why they should have exerted their ingenuity
to produce revolting cruelty in their modes of inflicting
death .
The manner in which the unfortunate Captain Stead
and Mr. Wainwright were put to death at Chinhae,
as it was afterwards discovered, ( for they were only
wounded and captured at Keeto Point) affords strong evi
dence of their cruel love for human suffering. The
burial-place of these persons was pointed out outside
the city wall , beyond a little moat which skirted them .
It seemed to be the common burial-place for criminals
after execution, and there was an archery -ground, with
a target near at hand , for the practice of their favourite
.
weapon. The bodies of our countrymen were found
rolled upin stout mats, such as are commonly used for
covering their floors. It was difficult to obtain from
the Chinese any thing like correct information as to the
precise mode in which the unfortunate sufferers were
put to death ; for, although both of them were at last
beheaded, there is too much reason to believe that they
were first of all most barbarously tortured .
The infliction of the punishment of death in China,
by any mode which shall cause the mutilation of the
body, is considered much more severe and degrading
than death by strangulation, or without the shedding
of blood ; and the more the body is mutilated , the
CRUELTY OF THE CHINESE . 229
greater is the punishment considered. The putting to
death by “ cutting in pieces,” in which horrible opera
tion decapitation is the climax , is, perhaps, never at
present carried into effect. It is reserved , I believe,
exclusively for rebellion and high treason . But the
Chinese seem to take pleasure in inventing various cruel
modes by which death may be inflicted, although pro
bably they are not now used, if, indeed, they ever were.
The most original and disgusting of all these methods,
(of which, however, there was no evidence of its being
used ) was illustrated by the discovery, either at Chinhae
or at Ningpo, of the model of a machine for pounding
women to death. The original model was found in a
temple, together with various others of a very extraor
dinary kind . It was very small, and was merely a
model, but it represented a large oblong stone vase, in
which the woman was to be placed, with the back of her
head resting upon one extremity, ( the long hair hanging
over the side, and fastened to it) while her legs were to
be secured to the other extremity. The horrible pound
ing process was to be effected by means of a huge
stone pestle, large at the base and conical at the apex ,
similar to those which they use for pounding rice. The
pestle, or cone, was fixed to the extremity of a long
pole, the pole itself being fastened by a pin in the
centre to an upright support, something in the manner
of a pump -handle. The extremity of the handle being
depressed by a man's weight, of course raised the cone,
and, the pressure being removed, the heavy cone or
pestle descended by its own weight, which was quite
sufficient to pound one to pieces.
230 CHINESE CRUELTY.
It was stated that at Chusan aa stone tablet was found ,
upon which were carved the Emperor's orders, that
every barbarian who fell into the hands of the authori
ties should be executed by a slow and ignominious
death. We know, however, that, except in the case of
the prisoners upon the island of Formosa, this horrible
threat was in only rare instances carried into execution.
On the contrary, the English prisoners were sometimes
tolerably well treated . This undoubtedly arose from
the forbearance which was shown on our part towards
the Chinese themselves, and the humanity and kindness
which their wounded and their prisoners invariably re
ceived from our officers and men, and which it was in
variably the object of Sir Hugh Gough to promote and
encourage. It is time, however, to return from these
digressions, in order to accompany the main body of our
troops up to the city of Ningpo.
NINGPO RIVER . 231
CHAPTER XXX .
Ningpo river — Reconnoissance of the City Ningpo occupied without
opposition — Panic throughout the province -Alarm at Hang -chow
foo - Remarks on the seat of operations - Chekeang - Importance of
the Imperial Canal — Measures adopted at Ningpo — Ransom de
manded — Chinese plunderers — Bridge of boats— Excursion to Yuyow
- Beauties of the country Notices of Ningpo — Prize-money
Public granaries opened to the people — Chinese horses — Pagoda, and
panorama of the country - Aspect of the town - Chinese etiquette
Want of scientific researches Taste for English manufactures —
Russian cloth manufactured in England for the Chinese overland
trade - Wood -carving and varnishing — Sporting excursions — Abun
dance of game — Chinese treachery — Anecdotes — Second visit to
Chinhae — View of the battle- field - Amusing incidents — Lady sham
ming dead- Infanticide— Visit to Chusan- Return to Ningpo.
The scenery at the mouth of the Ningpo river is
very striking. High conical- shaped hills stand on
either side ; and, as the river makes a bend a short
distance up, the fine mountains beyond come into full
view, and add to the picturesque beauty of the spot.
On the 12th of October (the second day after the
capture of Chinhae) the Admiral proceeded up the river
in the Nemesis, in order to reconnoitre the city of
Ningpo, and to ascertain the practicability of taking
the larger steamers and the sloops up the river. In all
respects, the river much exceeded the expectations
formed of it. It was found to be wide and easily navi
232 PANIC AT NINGPO .
gable up to the city, with not less than fourteen feet
water close under the city walls. It was also ascer
tained that no preparations had been made for defence,
as the positions which the Chinese had taken up at the
entrance of the river had been considered by them as
quite strong enough to prevent the approach of an
enemy . The people were seen hurrying out of the
city gates, in every direction, in the greatest conster
nation . It was therefore evidently requisite that our
forces should move up as soon as possible, not so much
to take advantage of the prevailing panic, as to anti
cipate the departure of so many of the respectable
families out of the city, and to induce them to remain
there under promise of protection. Otherwise, it was
very evident that the place would be entirely at the
mercy of all the lowest classes of the people, and would
soon become devastated by the ravages of a licentious
and uncontrolled mob. The authorities had all fled ,
and the city appeared to be in complete disorder.
No time was to be lost. With the exception of the
necessary garrison left at Chinhae, consisting of the
55th regiment (excepting the light company ), with one
hundred Royal Marines, and a detachment of artillery
and sappers, the whole under the command of Lieu
tenant -Colonel Craigie, the rest of the force was em
barked principally on board the Nemesis and Phlegethon,
on the following morning, the 13th, and proceeded up
the river, in company with the Queen and Sesostris
steamers, together with the Modeste, Cruiser, Colum
bine, and Bentinck. The Blonde was left for the pro
tection of Chinhae, as a support to the garrison .
OCCUPATION OF NINGPO . 233
In consequence of unavoidable delays, the force did
not reach the city of Ningpo until past two, p. m.; but,
fortunately, there was no difficulty in landing the
troops with the utmost expedition. Across the river,
just abreast of the town, there was a well-constructed
bridge of boats, which served to connect the city, at
the entrance of one of its gates, with the suburbs which
were on the opposite side. There was quite water
enough for the steamers to run close up to it ; and, as
the Chinese showed no intention of opposing the land
ing, the bridge was immediately taken possession of,
while thousands of the inhabitants thronged the banks
of the river, as mere spectators, moved by curiosity
rather than by fear. Indeed, the Chinese themselves
voluntarily assisted to remove the obstructions which
were piled up behind the city gates ; and about three
o'clock the whole of the little force, amounting to no
more than seven hundred and fifty bayonets, besides
the artillery and sappers, were drawn up along the
ramparts of the important and wealthy city of Ningpo ;
and the stirring sound of our national “ God save the
Queen ” was played by the band of the 18th Royal
Irish.
The utmost quiet was preserved, and the Chinese
were made to understand that, deserted by their own
authorities, and left without means of protecting them
selves, they might be assured of protection through
the generosity of British soldiers. Never indeed was
there a more peaceable victory.
The capture of Chinhae and Ningpo, so soon after the
loss of Chusan , seems to have inflicted so severe a blow
234 CHINESE PANIC .
upon the Chinese, as to have alarmed the whole pro
vince, and spread consternation even as far as the
capital itself. Reports were soon brought from every
quarter that the inhabitants even of Hang -chow -foo,
famed for its luxury and refinement throughout China,
were moving away from it in large numbers, and that
places nearer to the scene of action were already almost
abandoned . In fact, it was admitted that a panic pre
vailed on every side ; and it was feared that trea
cherous natives would seize the opportunity to rob and
plunder, and would form themselves into organized
bands for the purpose of creating internal disorders.”
There was also great apprehension that our forces
might proceed to capture Chapoo, one of their most
valuable ports, having the exclusive right of trade
with Japan, and situated in the vicinity of Hang
chow-foo.
It could not be doubted, therefore, that had the General
possessed a sufficient force to have been able to leave
a garrison at Ningpo, and at once to take possession
of Chapoo, which is, in fact, the seaport of Hang
chow -foo, and only twenty miles distant from it, he
might have marched to the provincial capital while the
Chinese were unprepared to offer any serious opposition ;
and it is not improbable that the war might have
been brought to a termination in that campaign. With
the very small force, however, which Sir Hugh Gough
had at his disposal, such a movement was manifestly im
possible. The whole force which he could muster at
Ningpo amounted to no more than seven hundred and
fifty bayonets ; and, as the city was not less than five
ALARM AT PEKIN . 235
miles in circumference, containing a dense population,
it evidently required a considerable garrison to occupy
the place, and to afford security to the peaceable and
well-disposed inhabitants. It was therefore resolved
to make Ningpo the head -quarters for the winter, and
to wait for reinforcements from England and from
India before opening the next campaign.
At this time, the Emperor, though alarmed, seems
not to have been at all dismayed by the disasters which
his troops had met with. The defence of Hang- chow
foo was clearly a matter of great importance. Large
bodies of troops were , therefore, ordered to be sent
down, new generals were appointed, and it is said that
even Keshen was liberated from confinement, and sent
to superintend affairs. Movements of troops and the
travelling of public officers are not very rapid in China,
and his majesty therefore ordered that the local officers
of the province should provide as well as they could for
its defence, until the reinforcements could reach them,
>
which would " require full two months' time.”
Alarm already began to be felt for the safety even of
Pekin ; and , remembering the former visit of our ships
to the river Peiho, and the conference at Tientsin, the
Emperor was not without dread of a second visit of a
more troublesome kind. Part of the troops, therefore,
which were originally ordered to Hang -chow - foo, were
directed to change their route, and proceed to co
operate for the defence of Tientsin, at which point also
troops from other parts were now ordered to be con
centrated .
The province of Chekeang, which was now the seat
236 WINTER QUARTERS .
of our operations, is intersected by large rivers, and
is traversed by the great Imperial Canal, which , taking
its commencement from the city of Hang-chow-foo, and
passing through the most fertile and densely-populated
provinces, crossing in its course the two great rivers,
the Yangtze Keang and the Yellow River, runs north
ward nearly as far as the imperial capital, which is
dependent upon it not only for its wealth, but even for
its means of daily subsistence. A blow inflicted upon
its immense traffic at one extremity must necessarily
vibrate along its whole course, and be painfully felt at
the other end ; and the great internal trade of China,
through all its endless ramifications, upon which
perhaps the bulk of the population depend for their
subsistence, must suffer a universal and dangerous
derangement. What was of quite as much importance
also, the imperial revenues would, in a great measure,
cease to flow into the imperial treasury ; and the “ tug of
war ” could not last long without the sinews that give
it strength.
The city of Ningpo, therefore, the largest in the
province next to Hang -chow -foo, wealthy from its great
trade, easily accessible by water, and formerly the site of
an English factory, was admirably adapted for winter
quarters. The troops were placed , in the first instance,
in two large public buildings, and the greatest forbear
ance was exercised towards the persons and property of
the inhabitants. Proclamations were likewise issued,
calling upon the people to return to their ordinary
avocations without fear ofmolestation ; and some of the
principal inhabitants were requested to assemble, in order
EQUIVALENT FOR PROTECTION. 237
that it might be explained to them that it was the wish
of our high officers to afford them all possible protection ,
and to restore order to the city ; that the hostility of the
English was to be directed against the government, and
not against the people.
All this sounded well at first, and was received with
great thankfulness by the Chinese, who seemed very well
disposed to be taken under British protection . But the
announcement which was afterwards made to them , that
they were to pay a heavy sum as ransom for the city,
and as an equivalent for the value of our “ protection, ”
was received with very great disfavour and reluctance.
Very little of the sum demanded was ever forthcoming ;
and the substitution of aa tax, or contribution, of ten per
cent upon the estimated value of the property, was the
cause of much subsequent ill-will, and some injustice.
In fact, notwithstanding the promises and hopes which
were held out, a very small portion of it was ever col
lected , and it was at all times a subject of much bitter
ness to the people.
A tax of ten per cent. upon the value of the cargoes
of all vessels passing up the river, which was afterwards
enforced, was much more successful; in fact, it was little
else than the collection of the imperial revenues, which
the Chinese were always liable to pay. It was,, however,
in a great degree evaded, by an increase of smuggling
along the coast, which the disorganized state of the
local government of the province greatly favoured .
Generally speaking, the collecting of any considerable
body of troops together in any particular province or
locality in China, so far from strengthening the hands of
238 NINGPO .
the authorities, is more likely to occasion disturbance
among the inhabitants. Their raw , ill-disciplined levies
are under little restraint, and repeated complaints are
always made against the lawlessness of the troops. Lit
tle confidence being placed in their regular soldiers, who
had been so recently defeated, the people were now
called upon by the authorities to collect their brave men
from all the villages and hamlets along the coast, and to
organize them into bands, for mutual “ defence against
the proud rebels ;" but, in most instances, these bodies
of uncontrolled patriots became a perfect scourge to their
own neighbourhood , and perfectly useless for any pur
pose of defence against the enemy.
Ningpo is situated upon the extremity of a tongue of
land at the point of junction of two rivers, or two
branches of the same river, which unite just below the
town, and form the Tahea, or Ningpo river. Both of
these branches are extremely tortuous, and have nume
rous villages along their banks, which are in some parts
picturesque and well cultivated. One of them leads up,
in a north - easterly direction , to the district town of
Yuyow, whence there is a canal , supposed to lead to
Hang -chow -foo : the distance is about forty miles ; and
nearly half-way up this branch, situated about four
miles from the river's bank, is the town of Tsekee. Both
of these towns shortly became, as we shall see, the
scene of our operations, our object being to disperse the
Chinese forces, which were being collected at various
points for a threatened attack upon us at Ningpo. The
other, or south-western branch of the Ningpo river, leads
up, at the distance of about thirty miles, to the town of
.BRIDGE OF BOATS . 239
Fungwah, which we also designed to attack , if neces
sary .
At Ningpo itself, one of the most interesting objects
is the bridge of boats, connecting the town with the
suburbs. It is apparently well contrived to answer the
purpose for which it is intended . The boats are all con
nected together by two chains running across, and rest
ing upon them, extending from one side of the river to
the other. This serves to keep the boats in their pla
without their being moored, and a regular bridge of
planks is carried from one to the other, but only destined
for foot-passengers, as carts for draught are unknown.
BRIDGE OF BOATS AT NING PO .
A few days after the place was taken, the Nemesis
and Phlegethon proceeded up the north -western branch
towards Yuyow, the Admiral and suite being on board
the former, and Sir Henry Pottinger and suite on board
the latter. They also took in tow the Wellesley's launch
and pinnace, manned and armed. The object was sim
240 AN EXPLORING PARTY .
ply to explore that branch of the river, and to ascertain
whether any Chinese were being collected in that direc
tion. Nothing could be more picturesque than the
scenery the whole way up, the tortuous bendings of the
river bringing a constant succession of new objects into
view, relieved by fine mountain scenery in the rear.
Numerous villages lay scattered upon its banks, but
there was no appearance of any preparations for defence.
The inhabitants generally, so far from running away with
fear, crowded the banks with looks of the utmost asto
nishment. The scenery continued to increase in interest
as they ascended, and particularly at a place called Poon
poo, where there was a cluster of extremely pretty coun
try houses, or villas, said to belong to several of the
high officers of government. On every side the country
appeared to be in the highest state of cultivation .
About two-thirds of the way up, the river became
considerably narrower, and the turnings were sometimes
so sharp and sudden, that it was not without some diffi
culty the long, sharp Nemesis could be guided round them.
At length, about five o'clock, they reached the city of
Yuyow , and came to anchor close under its walls, in
about three fathoms water.
The Admiral, accompanied by the numerous officers
who had attended him, including Captains Maitland,
Herbert, Blake, and others, now got into the boats
from the Nemesis, as did also Sir Henry Pottinger and
his suite from the Phlegethon, and proceeded up the
river above the town, to reconnoitre. They passed
under a well-constructed stone bridge of three arches,
the centre one being about thirty feet high ; but the
AN EXPLORING PARTY. 241
day was already far advanced, and the rain began to fall
heavily. Nothing of a hostile character was observed
in the neighbourhood, and they all very gladly returned
without landing, but did not reach the steamers until
they were completely drenched .
Sir William Parker did not escape suffering from the
exposure he had undergone, and was laid up almost im
mediately afterwards with an attack of rheumatism ;
indeed, it was often a matter of surprise that he escaped
with so little illness during his anxious and indefatigable
services, in which he never spared himself on any occa
sion , or shrunk from any exposure .
On the following morning, Sir Henry Pottinger went
up the river, and landed near a hill above the city,
while Captain Herbert and another party ascended a hill
a little below it, from which there was a most beautiful
and commanding view of the surrounding country on all
sides, as well as of the town. Upon this bill there was
a large joss-house capable of defence. There was no
appearance of hostility on the part of the people, nor
was any large body of troops discovered. The same
evening they all returned to Ningpo.
This first visit to Yuyow was one of reconnoissance
and curiosity, and the city itself was not entered. On
a subsequent occasion, however, in the following Decem
ber, a hostile attack was made upon it, as will be de
scribed, in consequence of the assembling of a body of
Chinese troops within its walls and in its neighbour
hood .
In the city of Ningpo itself, things gradually began
to settle down into their regular course ; the Chinese
VOL . II . R
242 PLUNDERING NATIVES .
soon opened their shops, and were very glad to sell their
wares at an exorbitant price. Provisions also were
brought in plentifully, and there was every probability
that the winter would be passed in tolerable tranquillity.
Some of the principal people are said to have come for
ward and expressed their willingness to be taken per
manently under British rule, under a guarantee of pro
tection, but their professions were little relied on.
Some of the temples at Ningpo are very handsome,
and one of them in particular is well worth seeing .
They fortunately escaped the plundering of the Chinese
thieves . Not so, however , the private houses , particu
larly in the suburbs, which were less under our control,
and were almost as extensive as the town . In these,
one whole street was discovered entirely at the mercy
of the mob, who had carried off nearly every thing that
could be moved , in almost every house . Several of
these rogues were caught in the act, and were handed
over to the tender mercies of the people themselves.
Several of them also were well flogged, and others had
their tails cut off, by the general's orders.
One of the buildings which attracted most interest
was the town prison, in which Captain Anstruther and
others of our unfortunate countrymen had been so long
confined . The identical cages in which they had been
shut up were found still there, and others of a similar
kind, ready for the reception of any of the barbarians
who might fall into their hands. The way in which
Captain Anstruther managed to find out his old prison
was rather curious. He had himself blindfolded , and
then carefully numbered the steps he had formerly
CHEAP CORN . 243
taken , and the different turnings he had made ; and by
these means contrived, within a few yards, to hit the
>
very spot .
A party arrived there in time to get possession of
some Sycee silver which had not yet been removed
from the offices ; but it is supposed that much more
had already been carried away by plunderers. A very
large quantity of the base coin called cash, the only
coined money of China, was found in another part of
the town ; and the enormous stores of grain, belonging
to government, were also taken possession of, and after
wards sold to the people at a cheap rate. This pro
duced a considerable addition to the prize -fund, but the
policy of selling it at so low a rate was somewhat ques
tioned. Every man was allowed to go into the stores,
at which a strong guard was placed, and fill as large a
sack as he could carry out of it for one dollar, its actual
value being about four. But only a small portion of
this was actually obtained by the poor people; for it
was asserted , at least by the Chinese, that the farmers
themselves managed to get a considerable share of it
by means of their servants, so that they might be able
to continue to keep up the price by a species of mono
poly. It was also feared that, in case of a failure of
the crops, a serious famine might happen to the people,
owing to the want of the accustomed stores which are
usually laid up by the government, in the paternal spirit
of providing the poor with food at a moderate price, in
the event of such a contingency. The sum added to the
prize -fund by the sale of these stores of grain, of which
there was said to be two years' supply, was considerable .
R 2
244 CHINESE PONIES .
There were also large stores of sugar discovered in the
town .
Amongst other unexpected prizes, not the least inte
resting was that of a stud of Chinese horses, or ponies,
small, but hardy little things, used exclusively for saddle,
and generally employed only by the higher mandarins.
Upwards of forty of these ponies were selected, and
trained for the artillery, and amusing enough it was to
see the commencement of their apprenticeship. One of
the great disadvantages the General laboured under, on
many occasions, was the want of horses for his staff ;
the necessity of carrying his orders on foot not only
caused delay, but rendered the duty very harassing,
particularly during some of the hot, sultry days in the
earlier part of this campaign.
The Chinese horses are extremely small, literally po
nies, but strong, and of good bone and tolerable figure;
but they are not numerous, being considered rather as a
valuable indication of rank or wealth than as the com
mon slave of man, either for labour or amusement. The
Chinese take no pains to improve the breed, and very
little care of them , as to their food, grooming, &c . In
reality, a Chinaman is the most awkward -looking horse
man imaginable, and the walk or the jog-trot is the only
pace that either his inclination, his dignity, or the slip
pery nature of his causeways, permit him to adopt. Po
pulation in China is so dense, and consequently labour
so abundant, that they stand in very little need of the
help of the lower animals to assist the hand of man,
and rather grudge the food which is necessary for their
maintenance.
NINGPO. 245
The best way to obtain a good view of Ningpo and
the surrounding country is to ascend the pagoda, which
forms one of its most striking objects. It is one hun
dred and fifty - five feet high, of an octagonal form ,
having windows all the way up, with a lantern in each ;
so that, if lighted up, the effect would be very striking.
The lower part of it is built of stone, but the upper part
of brick. In other respects it differs but little from
other structures of the same description. It appears to
be connected with a public burial-ground, as numerous
graves and monuments lie scattered round it. From
the top of it you get quite a panoramic view of the city
and the river, with its two tributaries or branches, the
mountains in the distance, and the fine, rich, alluvial,
well- watered, and highly-cultivated plain which extends
down towards the sea-coast.
The town itself differs little in appearance from that
of Canton and most other towns in China, but it is con
siderably smaller than the former ; it has the same
narrow streets, crossed here and there by the heavy stone
arches, or rather tablets, which are frequently erected
to do honour to some great or popular man, the same
curious, long, ornamented sign-boards, on each side of
the shops, and the same crowded clusters of houses, of
curious shape, and mostly of one story.
Many of the houses of the better class of people, not
deserted entirely by their owners, were visited by our
officers, who generally met with a very courteous recep
tion . Indeed , the Chinese well know how to make a
virtue of necessity, and to conciliate your good graces
by the offer of tea, cakes, tobacco, or flowers, rather
246 CHINESE MANNERS .
than run the chance of exciting your ill-will, or your
less friendly visits, by an affectation of independence or
rude indifference. The Chinese of the respectable
classes are capable of being extremely courteous, are
well -bred , and even elegant in their manners ; and the
proper mode of treating them is to insist on this kind of
demeanour as if it were due to you, and to accept it as
your right. But there are no people who can be more
rude, overbearing, and uncourteous than the Chinese,
when they choose to be so, or rather when they think
that they can withhold from you with impunity, or
without notice, the courtesies which are habitual among
themselves. The true method of gaining civility and
attention from them is to treat them with courteous
civility, and a certain degree of ceremonious distance,
yet mixed with kindness, never omitting to take notice
of the slightest want of courtesy on their part. On the
other hand, if you treat them with familiarity in the
first instance, or permit them to forego for an instant
any of the little marks of attention or etiquette to which
you are entitled, you are sure to lose their respect,
without gaining their affection . Chinese good -breeding
is a sensitive quality, and they often delight to try how
far they can carry any omission of etiquette, in order
to ascertain by your bearing whether you are entitled
to receive it .
Considering how much the property of the inhabi
tants of Ningpo was at our mercy, it is creditable that
so little injury was done to it during the many months
in which the city was in our possession. But it is also
deserving of remark that, during the whole period of the
PRODUCTIONS OF CHINA . 247
war with the Chinese, no considerable collection of
Chinese curiosities or works of art, many of which are
extremely interesting and novel to us, was made for pub
lic purposes. With the exception of a few specimens of
a
Chinese weapons and clothing, which were sent to diffe
rent public institutions by private individuals, no at
tempt was made to form a sort of Chinese Museum .
Had the French possessed the same advantages, pro
bably a valuable collection would have been sent to
Paris.
It is also to be regretted that some one or more
scientific gentlemen were not attached to the expedi
tion, who, with the assistance of an interpreter, might
have made us acquainted with many interesting sub
jects of natural history, and of the productions of the
country. Where, for instance, is the immense quantity
of Sycee silver, which is annually exported from China,
obtained ? Where are their copper-mines, and how are
they worked ? Coal-mines also exist in several parts of
China ; at Ningpo coal was sold in small quantities, and
at Nankin immense supplies of excellent coal were found
laid up for the coming winter, and our steamers found it
answer very well . The mineral productions of China, of
which there are probably many, are almost entirely un
known to us.
The taste for European manufactures had reached
Ningpo long before we got possession of it. There
were one or two shops for the sale of what were called
Canton wares, that is, English goods brought up from
Canton , and, of course, sold enormously dear. In one
of them was a quantity of English glass of various
248 CHINESE PRODUCTIONS .
kinds. English gilt buttons were found, and were in
demand for the dresses of the higher classes, particu
larly of the women, who seemed to prefer those which
had the East India Company's crest, the Lion, upon them .
A large quantity of cloth was also found imported from
Russia, and called Russian cloth ; but, in reality, there
is little doubt that the cloth was manufactured in Eng
land , for Russian merchants, expressly for their overland
trade with China. It is a known fact, that orders of
this description, for cloth made expressly of a particular
kind, have long been executed in England. This, then,
ought now to become a direct trade in our own hands.
The Chinese appear to excel in the art of wood
carving, some very fine specimens of which were found
in their houses. One house in particular at Ningpo
was distinguished by the tasteful carving of its furni
ture, particularly of that which belonged to the bed
rooms . Some of their wardrobes and bedsteads were
elegantly ornamented with carved work , inlaid with
various kinds of wood, and representing landscapes,
figures, &c. Some of their specimens of fretwork, with
silk at the back, and of embroidered silk furniture,
were extremely elegant. Above all things, they excel
in the art of varnishing plain or carved wood, and they
have also some method of giving a fine gloss to painted
work, which very much increases its durability, althongh
it is different from varnish .
One of their greatest deficiencies appears to be in the
mode of lighting their houses. Glass is so little used ,
and the manufacture of it so imperfectly known among
them , that almost the only mode which they adopt of
SPORTING IN CHINA. 249
letting in the light, and of excluding the air at the same
time, is by lattice-work windows, sometimes neatly
carved, and lined inside with very thin transparent
paper. Occasionally, however, a single pane of glass is
found in the centre of the window, while in other in
stances the whole of it is covered with the thin transpa
rent lining of oyster-shells, which admit a very dubious
light. The artificial lighting of the best houses is often
very well effected by coloured lamps, several of which
are suspended from the ceiling, and painted with various
designs, landscapes, &c. But the painting is on the
glass, not in the glass ; the latter art appears to be quite
unknown to the Chinese.
Generally speaking, it was not safe to wander far
from the gates of the town, except when a large party
went together upon a shooting excursion. Pheasants,
and a sort of pigeon, with woodcocks and teal, were
generally found without difficulty, but the Chinese
seemed mightily astonished that any one should take
the trouble to walk over the country, mile after mile,
merely for the trouble of shooting birds. It is curious
that, expert and indefatigable as they are in catching
fish, they should be so indifferent to the art of catching
or killing birds, which are to be found in almost every
part of the country in great abundance. But they seem
to be deterred by the trouble of seeking for them, and
have very little knowledge of the relative value of the
different species as articles of diet. The lower class of
people will gladly devour any kind of bird you shoot
for them . I have seen them glad to get birds of prey
even , and yet they take no pains to secure the thou
250 CHINESE THIEVES .
sands of wild - fowl which are to be found upon the
banks of the same rivers in which they catch their fish .
That it was not safe to go out alone, even well
armed, soon became evident, for they made more than
one attempt to carry off a sentry on duty, and would
have succeeded in their object , had not the guard
instantly come up on the alarm being given . On these
occasions, as may be supposed, a Chinaman or two
stood a chance of being shot. But the boldest of them
all were the professed thieves, who continued to com
mit depredations upon their countrymen in the most
barefaced manner, in spite of the severe examples which
were sometimes made.
On one occasion, when a small foraging party was
out looking for poultry and bullocks, some Chinamen
pointed out a spot where they said a quantity of Sycee
silver had been concealed. This was too great a temp
tation for the soldiers to resist, but the moment they
had loaded themselves with the silver the Chinese sur
rounded them, and they were obliged to let fall the
Sycee in order to defend themselves, and then beat a
retreat. A quarrel then arose of course among the
Chinese, about the division of the spoil, of which they
had not robbed their countrymen, but had only cap
tured it from the barbarians.
So many attempts were made to entrap our soldiers
and sailors, and to carry them off, both at Ningpo and
Chinhae, that great caution was necessary, and, in spite T
of the many warnings, some of their attempts were
successful. They had less inclination to molest the
officers ; not that they loved them better, or desired
CHINESE POLICE . 251
them less as prisoners, but that they had greater
respect for the double-barrelled pistols which many of
the officers carried in their pockets, and which all were
supposed to be provided with.
An attempt was made more than once by the Chinese
to rob our commissariat stores, but it was frustrated by
our vigilance . But the Chinese are uncommonly expert
housebreakers , as many people in Hong Kong can
testify, where houses and stores of the most substantial
kind were broken into in a very ingenious manner,
generally by removing some of the stones or bricks
near the foundation .
The attempt to establish a Chinese police at Ningpo,
and also at Chusan, was tolerably successful; at least
it was not difficult to find men who were willing enough
to receive the pay, and wear the badge of a policeman ;
but it is not quite so certain that they were equally
ready to detect thieves, or to protect the property of
individuals. Sometimes, by way of appearing to do
something, they gave false information, which served
to create a stir for the moment. Upon the whole, they
were certainly of some use ; but the want of knowledge
of the language, and the small number of interpreters,
since Mr. Gutzlaff had almost the sole management of
them, rendered their services less available than could
have been wished . They were occasionally useful as
spies, and obtained information of reports among their
countrymen , concerning the plans and intentions of the
mandarins.
But, besides these, we had also regular spies in our
pay, one of whom , a Chinese who spoke English, and
252 INTERCEPTED DESPATCHES .
came to be known by the name of Blundell, was sent up
to Hang - chow -foo, but was afraid to deliver the paper
which was entrusted to him, and returned without
having accomplished his object. He was supposed to
be employed as a spy by both parties, the Chinese as
well as ourselves.
Generally, pretty correct information was obtained
of the proposed movements of the Chinese, the assem
bling of their troops, and the orders of the imperial
cabinet. It is curious that an edict was found, which
alluded to the affair of the Nemesis in the harbour of
Sheipoo, and the destruction of the forts and junks.
It was also said that a letter had been intercepted,
from Yang Fang, one of the imperial commissioners at
Canton, to one of the Tartar generals in Chekeang,
apprising him that he had received from Manilla one
hundred and fifty shells, with some guns, and a supply
of muskets. Whether this was true, it is impossible to
ascertain, but there was no doubt that they received
arms of various kinds from some place or other. They
offered to the captain of an American merchant ship
at Chusan six hundred dollars for his two iron guns,
and twelve dollars for each of his twelve muskets and
bayonets, but he refused to part with them. This
information I had from the captain himself.
At Ningpo, however, and in its neighbourhood , there
were no indications of hostile preparations for some
time after the place was in our possession. It was not
until quite the end of November, that reports, upon
which reliance could be placed, reached the General,
that troops were collecting in some of the neighbouring
TRADING JUNKS. 253
towns, particularly at Yuyow , the town which had
already been visited , and rumours were afloat of some
projected attack, on the part of the Chinese, upon
Ningpo itself. Little uneasiness, however, was felt on
this head ; but plans now began to be laid for dis
persing these different bodies of troops, and for the
purpose of instilling a wholesome terror into the minds
of the people, lest they as well as the authorities should
become emboldened by our apparent supineness. There
did not, however, appear to be any immediate necessity
for active measures, which did not take place until two
or three weeks afterwards.
In the mean time, the Nemesis was sent over to
Chusan, stopping a day or two at Chinhae on the way,
to procure fuel, and to overhaul a number of large
junks which were at anchor a few miles from the
mouth of the river. They were found to be laden
principally with peas, rice, oil, walnuts, liquorice
root, &c ., and , had they been met with a few months
later, they would all have been detained, as were hun
dreds of a similar kind at Woosung ; but at this time
they were not molested . Opium was found in them all,
in small quantities only, for the use of the people on
board , but apparently not for sale.
Some improvement was already noticed in the ap
pearance of Chinhae, although it had not yet been two
months in our possession ; the market was well sup
plied , and the 55th regiment seemed to be much better
provided with quarters than the troops stationed at
Ningpo. The weather was now clear and bracing, and
the sickness which had partially attacked our troops,
254 A CHINESE LADY .
on first taking possession of the town , had almost
entirely disappeared .
This was a good opportunity for paying a visit to
the site of the engagement with the Chinese on the
opposite side of the river, on the day of the capture of
Chinhae. The positions held by the Chinese appeared
remarkably strong, and, had they been skilfully de
fended, would not have been taken without great loss
of life on our side.
On the occasion of this visit, two Chinamen were
seen at some little distance, hastening along with a
large round basket carried between them, carefully
covered up, but which at first attracted little notice.
Some of the party had the curiosity to raise up the
covering a little, when, to their great surprise and
amusement, a very young and pretty -looking Chinese