charge with the bayonet ; for the Chinese, who hovered
about them, seeing that they could not use their fire
locks, came boldly up to attack them with their long
spears, which are formidable from their length. After
several repulses, the Chinese at length withdrew ,
54 GALLANT AFFAIR .
and our troops were directed to return to their posi
tions .
It was on this occasion, and in the midst of this ter
rific storm, in the dusk of evening, that the gallant con
duct and steadiness of the company of the 37th M. N. I.,
which, as before-stated, had been detached to open a
communication with the 26th on their left, saved them
from total destruction, and won for them the praise of
all military men. The story has been so often told, and
with so little variation in its details, that it is scarcely
necessary to repeat it ; a few words will do justice to
their gallantry. The detached company having missed
the road during the storm, did not succeed in joining
the 26th, who, in the mean time, had, in fact, retired .
Their muskets were found completely useless, owing to
the wet, which emboldened the Chinese to attack their
rear with their long spears, as they had done the 26th.
They were soon surrounded , and one or two of the men
were pulled over with a long crooked spear, something
in the shape of a small reaping -hook fixed upon a long
pole. The musket of one of the men who had fallen
was picked up by the Chinese, the powder being so
damp in the pan that it would not go off with the flint
and steel. The Chinese soldier, however, deliberately
placed the musket to his shoulder, and, taking steady
aim at one of the officers, Mr. Berkeley, applied his
match to the damp powder, which ignited, and the mus
ket went off, and unfortunately wounded Mr. Berkeley
in the arm .
The gallant little company of Sepoys were now
moved to some rising ground, where they could better
GALLANT AFFAIR. 55
defend themselves. For a moment the rain ceased, and
then with the utmost difficulty they were enabled to get
a few muskets off, with unerring effect upon the dense
mass of Chinese who surrounded them . But fortune
was determined to prolong their trial still . The rain
again descended in torrents, just as they had begun their
retreat; and the Chinese, taking fresh courage, resumed
their attacks. Nothing now remained but to form a
square, and stand true to each other, until the morning
dawned, and enabled them to fight their way through
the enemy.
The absence of this company, when all the rest of
the force was concentrated , caused great anxiety con
cerning their fate. It was rightly attributed to the
severity of the storm ; but it was feared that they might
possibly have been cut off by the Chinese.
Without loss of time, Sir Hugh Gough ordered up
two companies of marines, who were comparatively
fresh, and armed with percussion-muskets, to return
with Captain Duff in search of the missing company.
As they advanced they fired an occasional shot, as a
signal to their comrades of their approach , and to ani
mate their spirits. At length an occasional shot was
heard ahead of them, and they soon afterwards came
up with the missing company, drawn up in a square,
surrounded by thousands of Chinese. A couple of vol
leys sent into the midst of the confused crowd, by the
unerring percussion -muskets' of the marines, accompa
1
Only two of the purcussion -muskets of the marines missed fire,
although they had been loaded two or three days before, without having
been discharged since. The men belonged principally to the Blenheim ,
under Lieutenant Whiting.
56 THE SEPOYS .
nied by a loud “ hurra ,” dispersed them with great loss.
They fled in confusion .
The General's own words will best do justice to this
little incident : “ The Sepoys,” says he, “ in this critical
situation, nobly upheld the high character of the native
army, by unshrinking discipline, and cheerful obedi
ence ; and I feel that the expression of my best thanks
is due to Lieutenants Hadfield and Devereux, and En
sign Berkeley, who zealously supported them during
this trying scene. ”
They did not, however, escape without some loss, as
one private was killed , and one oflicer and fourteen men
were severely wounded.
This open hostility of the Chinese, during the opera
tion of a truce, could not be permitted to continue; and ,
moreover, it was evident that no good purpose could be
attained by merely dispersing these irregular bodies of
the Chinese. Accordingly, on the following morning,
the 31st, the General sent to inform the Kwang- chow
foo , or prefect, that if these hostile demonstrations were
continued, he should be under the necessity of at once
hauling down the flag of truce, and of recommencing
hostilities against the city . Nor was this threat by any
means uncalled for. In the course of the day, before
any further arrangements had been made with the Pre
fect, who promised to come and meet the General and
Captain Elliot under the walls, the Chinese again col
lected upon the hills, displaying their banners, & c. , and
firing off their guns .. Detached parties were also thrown
in advance, as if they had some design of communica
ting with the Tartar troops, who, to the number of
1
CONFERENCE WITH THE PATRIOTS. 57
7000, had already marched out of the city, and were
still moving .
In the afternoon, the number of Chinese had still
further increased, upon the same hills upon which
they had appeared the day before. At length the Pre
fect arrived , and assured the General that the move
ments of these peasants were quite without the know
ledge or sanction of the authorities, and that he would
immediately send off an officer of rank to order them
to disperse to their homes. It was agreed that one of
our own officers should also accompany him , to endea
vour to effect this object by their joint efforts ; and
Captain Moore, of the 34th Bengal N.I., volunteered to
undertake this hazardous and responsible duty . Some
treachery might possibly have been intended, although,
as there was reason to believe, without the sanction of
the Prefect, who was, personally, at that time, com
pletely in our power. These irregular bodies were at
length induced to disperse, and no further collision
took place .
It is impossible for us to know exactly what commu
cation was made by the Chinese officer, to the heads of
these patriotic bands ; but it was thought that the peo
ple did not withdraw altogether owing to the conviction
that their efforts would be useless against us, but
because they were bound to obey the orders of the
Prefect. At the same time, they really believed that
they had been betrayed by their own anthorities, and
were ready to unite again, whenever occasion offered,
with some confidence of success .
58 GUNS CAPTURED .
During all the operations upon the heights, the
greater part of the wounded were brought down and
put on board the Nemesis, where they received every
attention from the surgeon of the vessel, and particu
larly from Mr. Peter Young, who was then on board
merely as a volunteer. The Nemesis was employed to
convey them daily to their respective ships and trans
ports. The total number of casualties amounted to fif
teen killed, and one hundred and twelve wounded ;
among the latter were no less than fifteen officers. The
Chinese must have suffered very severely, as almost every
shot told upon their heavy masses.
Upon the heights of Canton forty -nine guns were
captured, besides a great number of ginjals. But if we
reckon all the guns taken and destroyed in the Canton
river, and its numerous branches, from Chuenpee to
Canton, they will be found to amount to not less than
twelve hundred pieces, besides ginjals, &c.
The resources of the Chinese seemed endless, and the
rapidity with which they erected batteries and field
works was not a little remarkable. It cannot be said
that they yielded without first making the most stren
uous efforts to defend all the approaches to Canton ;
and they were rather wanting in skill, and the know
ledge of the best mode of applying their abundant
resources, than in courage or determination to resist.
The Chinese are capable of becoming a formidable
enemy ; and we cannot forget that, like the Russians,
who were once so easily conquered, they may soon learn
the art of war from their conquerors, and become for
THE TREATY . 59
midable from the experience which their first disasters
taught them .
On the 31st of May, nearly 18,000 Tartars had
marched out of Canton , according to the terms agreed
on . Five million dollars had also been paid, and secu
rity given for the other million which was still to be
paid . Preparations were therefore made, at the request
of Captain Elliot, for the re-embarkation of our forces,
and their withdrawal from before Canton. With the
assistance of eight hundred Chinese labourers, who were
furnished for the purpose by the Prefect, the guns,
ammunition, and stores, were brought down to Tsingpoo
on the morning of the 1st of June, under a strong
escort, and the British flag having been lowered in the
forts upon the heights, the whole of our force was re-em
barked in the afternoon, under the superintendence of
Captain Bourchier and Captain Maitland. They were
again conveyed or towed by the Nemesis down to their
respective ships.
Sir Hugh Gough particularly noticed the absence of
excess of every kind which distinguished the men during
the eight days they were on shore. Although placed
in situations where temptation was abundant, only two
instances of drunkenness occurred during the whole
period.
The treaty, or perhaps rather the truce, which had
been made, by no means implied the conclusion of peace
between the two nations ; it had reference solely to the
city and river of Canton, the whole of the forts and
defences of which were to be restored to the Chinese as
soon as the ransom had been paid ; it was, however,
60 THE RANSOM .
stipulated that they were not to be re-armed “ until
affairs between the two countries should be finally set
tled . ” Accordingly , as soon as our forces, both mili
tary and naval, had been again concentrated at Hong
Kong, preparations were immediately recommenced
for the resumption of the projected expedition against
Amoy.
With respect to the ransom of Canton, it is scarcely
now necessary to revert to the vexed question, as to whe
ther it was to be considered as prize-money, or to be
viewed in the light of a contribution. The former view
of it was long entertained by many of the officers of the
expedition, and the golden hope was cherished that it
would be so viewed elsewhere. It was certainly not
regarded in that light by Captain Elliot, who accepted
the ransom for the use of his government, as a desirable
means of relieving the city from the “ pressure from
without.” Under any circumstances, it was merely a
droit of the crown. The opinion of Vatel is very sim
ple and conclusive.
“ • The sovereign alone,” says he, “ has such claims
against a hostile nation, as warrant him to seize on its
property, and convert it to his own use. The soldiers,
or auxiliaries, are the instruments which he employs
in asserting his rights ; and they have no more right to
the booty than they have to the conquests. But, at
present, most nations allow them whatever they can
make on certain occasions, when PLUNDERING is allowed .
The sovereign may grant the troops what share of booty
he pleases ; but, instead of pillaging, a more humane
and advantageous mode has been adopted, that of con
THE RANSOM . 61
tributions. Thus the enemy's subjects, by consenting
to pay the sum demanded of them, have their property
secured, and the country is preserved .”
The six millions were evidently intended by Captain
Elliot to be received in the light of a contribution ,
according to the sense in which the word is used by
Vatel .
62 HONG KONG .
CHAPTER XXIV .
HONG KONG.
Return of all our forces from Canton - Sickness breaks out Death of
Lung- wan and of Sir Le Fleming Senhouse — Buried at Macao— Re
marks on Hong Kong -- Its extent and position — General character of
the island - Influence of the monsoons - Contrast between the islands
near the Canton River and those of Chusan — Clarke Abel Smith's
-
-
observations on Hong Kong in 1816 — Why it is preferred to Lintao
-Causes of unhealthiness – · Mean temperature of July, 1843— Re
marks on the prevailing sickness — 55th regiment — West - point bar
racks abandoned — Notices of the southern side of the island — Chek
chew - And Skekpywan - Comparatively healthy - Site for a naval
yard recommended — Rivalry of Macao — Wonderful progress of Hong
Kong - First land -sale - First house built September, 1841 - Descrip
tion of Victoria at the present time - Public works and institutions
Projected fort — Question offuture tenure ofland - Quit - rents — Public
press of the colony.
In the first week in June, all our ships of war and
transports had left the Canton River, and were again
assembled at Hong Kong. All the forts from Chuenpee
upwards had been restored to the Chinese, without any
other stipulation except that all those below Whampoa
should be suffered to remain in statu quo.
The Emperor seems to have been much displeased
with the latter part of this agreement ; and , in reply to
63
UNHEALTHINESS OF HONG KONG .
the memorial of Yih -shan upon the subject, his majesty
directed that “ secret means of defence should be pre
pared as soon as the foreign ships had withdrawn from
the river, and that they were then to build new and
strong forts, and repair the old ones . ” On our side ,
however, nothing of this kind was permitted below
Whampoa ; so that , until the ratifications of the treaty
of peace had been actually exchanged , the whole of the
defences of the Bogue remained in the same dilapidated
state in which they were left when our squadron quitted
the river in June , 1841 .
Sickness had already begun to prevail among our
troops before they had reached Hong Kong. The eight
days' exposure which they had endured upon the heights
of Canton sowed the seeds of ague and dysentery, which
proved far more formidable enemies to us than any troops
the Chinese could bring against us. After the lapse of
a few days, and when the excitement of active operations
on shore, and the cheering influence of hope and novelty
had subsided, the sickness spread among the men with
alarming rapidity, so that, at length, out of our small
force, no less than eleven hundred men were upon the
sick-list at Hong Kong. Part of this alarming state of
things must be attributed certainly to the pernicious
influence of the atmosphere of Hong Kong itself at that
season of the year. But every allowance must be made
for the exposure which the men had undergone at Canton,
and for the susceptibility of constitution produced by
long confinement on board ship. The germs of disease
were planted in their bodies before the men returned to
the harbour of Hong Kong ; and therefore an undue
64 UNHEALTHINESS OF HONG KONG .
stress was laid at the time upon the unhealthiness of
Hong Kong itself. We shall revert to this subject more
particularly hereafter ; but it is worth while here to
mention that the three Imperial Comuissioners laid par
ticular stress upon the known unhealthiness of the
neighbourhood of Canton at that season, as a ground
for the impossibility of keeping any large body of troops
long together. They assured the Emperor “ that it was
difficult to pitch so much as a camp there, for, between
the heat and moisture, if the troops remained long toge
ther, there was sure to be a great deal of sickness. ”
Now, if this was the case, as regards the natives of the
country, or with regard to Chinese soldiers brought from
distant provinces, how much more forcibly will the ob
servation apply to foreign troops, who had been long
cooped up on board ship !
It happened, remarkably enough, that two of the high
officers died as nearly as possible at the same time, one
on the part of the Chinese, and one on our side. Lung
wan , one of the imperial commissioners, died of fever at
Canton about the middle of June, and Sir Le Fleming
Senhouse, the senior naval officer, also died of fever at
Hong Kong on the 13th of that month .
Sir Le Fleming Senhouse had partaken of all the pri
vations of the troops on shore, and exposed himself on
every occasion in which his zeal and example could
serve the cause . He was, moreover , undoubtedly chag
rined at the unlooked -for termination of his labours by
a truce, the provisions of which , right or wrong, scarcely
accorded with his own views of the exigencies of the
moment. All these causes combined, acting upon a
BURIAL OF SIR LE FLEMING SENHOUSE . 65
not over-strong constitution, sufficed to hurry him by
sickness to his grave. On the 17th his remains were
removed to Macao, according to a wish which he had
expressed before his death ; as if he retained a lurking
doubt whether Hong Kong would not some day or other
be restored to the Chinese. The Nemesis was employed
upon this melancholy occasion, to carry over his re
mains. At Macao the body of the gallant veteran was
buried, with all the honours due to his rank, in the
English burial-ground . The procession was formed by
Captain Elliot, Sir Hugh Gough, and Captain Herbert,
(as the senior naval officer) followed by at least
seventy naval and military officers, and by nearly all
the British and foreign residents. The Portuguese go
vernor also attended , with all his staff, and the Portu
guese guard fired three volleys over the grave of the
lamented officer.
The loss of Sir Le Fleming Senhouse and other
officers, as well as a good many men, and the prevailing
sickness on board all the vessels of war and transports,
at length threw a gloom over the whole expedition,
which was hardly to be relieved until the expected
movement upon Amoy should take place ; this was ac
cordingly looked forward to with great anxiety.
The island of Hong Kong, which was originally ceded
to us by the terms of our treaty with Keshen , but, in
consequence of the disallowance of that treaty by the
Emperor, was afterwards only held by us by right of
occupancy during the progress of hostilities, was at
length confirmed as a possession of the crown of Great
Britain, by the ratification of the treaty of Nankin. It
VOL. II . F
66 HONG KONG .
was proclaimed as a part of the British empire, and , to
gether with its dependencies, erected into a separate
colony, on the 26th of June, 1843, under the designa
tion of the “ Colony of Hong Kong . "
It is difficult to ascertain what are the actual de .
pendencies of Hong Kong. They, probably, include all
the small islands immediately adjacent to it , particularly
on its southern side, but, whether Lamma Island is com
prised in them or not, we have little means of judging.
In the proclamation, dated at its capital town , Victoria ,
and published by the authority of Sir Henry Pottinger,
the colony is said to be situated between twenty-two
degrees, nine minutes, and twenty-two degrees twenty
one minutes north latitude ; which would give it an ex
tent of twelve miles from north to south ; so that Lamma
Island, as well as the smaller adjacent islands, would
appear to be included in the dependencies. The extent
of the colony from east to west is not distinctly laid
down, as only one meridian of longitude is given,
namely, 114°, 18 ', east longitude from Greenwich.
The position assigned to the island of Hong Kong in
the maps is, probably, incorrect, as it does not coin
cide with that laid down by Sir Henry Pottinger in the
proclamation. The greatest length of the island itself
is from east to west, namely, eight miles; but the breadth
is extremely irregular, varying from six miles to about
two miles only. A glance at the accompanying map
will sufficiently indicate the peculiar form of the island.
The present capital, Victoria, extends for a conside
rable distance along its northern shore, and, from the
nature of the ground, has of necessity been built in a
wloon Bay
MAINLAND
KELLI
BAN )
reuk
Deva
rry ay
Qua B
GreenI R S
PHU NNE
SUL CHA LYE MIO.N PASS .
SkeegthongHa
fort
the shore ram :
Boul Sokh
der PC
Tytam .H.
Chayvont
TY TA A
Bd
AT .
village
Shingshimoon Pass
Zylam Head
Sea Miles
66 HONG KONG .
was proclaimed as a part of the British empire, and , to
gether with its dependencies, erected into a separate
colony, on the 26th of June, 1843, under the designa
tion of the “ Colony of Hong Kong ."
It is difficult to ascertain what are the actual de
pendencies of Hong Kong. They, probably, include all
the small islands immediately adjacent to it, particularly
on its southern side, but, whether Lamma Island is com
prised in them or not, we have little means of judging.
In the proclamation, dated at its capital town, Victoria,
and published by the authority of Sir Henry Pottinger,
the colony is said to be situated between twenty-two
degrees, nine minutes, and twenty-two degrees twenty
one minutes north latitude ; which would give it an ex
tent of twelve miles from north to south ; so that Lamma
Island, as well as the smaller adjacent islands, would
appear to be included in the dependencies. The extent
of the colony from east to west is not distinctly laid
down, as only one meridian of longitude is given ,
namely, 1140, 18 ', east longitude from Greenwich .
The position assigned to the island of Hong Kong in
the maps is, probably, incorrect , as it does not coin
cide with that laid down by Sir Henry Pottinger in the
proclamation . The greatest length of the island itself
is from east to west, namely, eight miles; but the breadth
is extremely irregular, varying from six miles to about
two miles only. A glance at the accompanying map 1
will sufficiently indicate the peculiar form of the island.
The present capital, Victoria, extends for a conside
rable distance along its northern shore, and, from the
nature of the ground, has of necessity been built in a
wloon Bay MAINLAND
KELL
BANI
Devals reuk
rry ay
Qua B
UR NEL
SULPHI
Green
CHA
N LYE M00.
1
PAS
S
Skeegthong Hoe
hinggam
Sökti
Boul
der Pt
Tytam H
Chayvont
TYT A MI
Bd )
AT
Nilai
Lytan Shingehimoon Pass
Zylam Head
Sea Miles
HONG KONG HARBOUR. 67
very extended , straggling manner. The distance across
to the mainland of China, if it can be so called , ( for
part of the opposite coast is probably an island) varies
considerably. The breadth of the Lyemoon Passage to
the eastward is little more than a quarter of a mile, but
from the town to the nearest point opposite to it is
about aa mile and a quarter, while the greatest breadth
is upwards of four miles.
The roads of Hong Kong and the Bay of Victoria
form an excellent anchorage, having deep water very near
the shore, and only one small shoal having sixteen feet
water upon it. There are, however, two disadvantages
under which it labours : it is exposed to the full fury of
the typhoons whenever they occnr ; and the high moun
tains of Hong Kong intercept the genial breezes of the
south-west monsoon during the hot season, when a
movement in the atmosphere is most necessary, not only
to moderate the sultry summer heat of a tropical cli
mate, but to dissipate the unhealthy vapours which
are generated after the heavy rains which occur, parti
cularly during the night, at that season .
In other respects, the lake-like appearance of the har
bour is beautiful; it forms a sort of basin, lying he
tween the mountains of Hong Kong and the mountains
of the mainland opposite. For this reason, however,
the rains which fall are sometimes excessively heavy :
the dark threatening clouds seem banded across from
one side to the other, pouring down their waters in tor
rents upon the basin between them. The mountain
sides of Hong Kong, steep though they are, occasionally
appear almost covered with a sheet of moving water, so
F 2
68 HONG KONG.
torrent-like do the streams pour down their declivities.
To this succeeds the burning tropical sun of July, with
a sort of death-like stillness in the atmosphere, which,
little influenced as it is on that side of the island by
the south-west monsoon , cannot fail, if it last long
without any change, to produce fever and sickness.
Almost all tropical countries are occasionally sub
ject to these visitations ; but, as a proof that Hong
Kong is not always exposed to them , I may be per
mitted to mention that a gentleman who was once at
anchor there, in company with a fleet of full fifty sail
of merchant ships during a period of nine months, in
cluding the whole summer season, assured us that he
observed no prevailingfever or sickness of any kind.
The extremely barren appearance of nearly all the
islands at the mouth of the Canton River, the deep and
rugged furrows which seem to plough up their moun
tain sides, the exposed rocky surface of their summits,
and the absence of soil, except in sheltered spots or
hollows, seem at once to point out that they are situated
within the influence of hurricanes and tropical rains.
In this respect, the contrast between this part of China
and the Chusan Islands to the northward is very re
markable. The latter look as rich and inviting, both
near and at a distance, as the former appear inhospitable
and barren. In the one case, there is an industrious
and thriving population, who contrive to cultivate the
surface of the mountains, frequently to their very
summits, with the greatest care and nicety ; in the
other case, there is a hardy and adventurous popu
lation of fishermen, smugglers, and pirates ; the unwil
HONG KONG . 69
ling soil is only cultivated in scattered patches, and the
villages are few , and comparatively of mean appearance .
The southern side of the island of Hong Kong was
visited by the squadron which conveyed Lord Amherst's
embassy to China in 1816 ; and it is, therefore, worth
while to repeat here the observations of Dr. Clarke Abel
Sinith upon that occasion . The bay in which the ves
sels anchored was near the village of Shekpywan, and
was then called Hong Kong Sound . It was described
as “ being formed by several small islands, by which it
is land -locked on every side, and of which Hong Kong
is the principal.” “ As seen from the deck ,” says Dr.
Smith, “ this island was chiefly remarkable for its high
conical mountains rising in the centre, and for a beau
tiful cascade, which rolled over a fine blue rock into the
sea . ”
This was in the beginning of July . The rocks on
that side of the island were found approaching to basalt
in compactness of structure. In ascending the principal
mountain which was near, he followed the course of a
delightful stream , which rises near its summit ; and was
much struck with the extreme barrenness of the sur
face of the mountain, and, indeed, of every part of the
island which he was able to visit. “ Yet at a distance,”
says he, “ it appears fertile, from the abundance of
fern , which I believe to be the polypodium trechoto
mum [of Kæmpfer) which supplies the place of other
plants.”
By the side of the stream, however, he found several
interesting plants. Among them the Beckia chinensis,
myrtus tomentosus in abundance, and in full flower,
70 HONG KONG .
melastoma quinquenervia, and several orchideous plants,
of which he could not determine the varieties . There
were a great number of ferns, but not a single moss of
any description. He adds that he was unable to reach
the summit of the mountain, in consequence of the ex
cessive heat, which at eight a. m. raised the thermome
ter to 830 in the shade, while the sun's rays, to wliich
he was necessarily exposed, darted through an unclouded
atmosphere with an almost intolerable effect, and raised
the mercury to 120°.
On his way down from the mountain, he followed a
path which led over a small hill, or rather mound, differ
ing in structure from the rocks in its neighbourhood,
being composed of very friable stone, of reddish white
colour, much resembling disintegrated felspar. He de
scribes the scenery of the island as composed of barren
rocks, deep ravines, and mountain torrents, with few
characters of a picturesque kind . The only inhabitants
he saw were some poor weather -beaten fishermen spread
ing their nets, and drying the produce of their toils, on
the rocks which supported their miserable huts. Its
cultivation corresponded with the apparent state and
number of its population . Patches of rice, small plan
tations of yams, and a little buck-wheat, were all their
visible means of vegetable support.
As regards the anchorage itself, at what he calls
Hong Kong Sound, naval men described it as affording
admirable shelter for ships of any burden .
Such, then, is all the information acquired at that
time concerning a portion of the southern side of Hong
Kong. Little was it then thought that this very island
HONG KONG. 71
would in a few years become a part of the British em
pire.
Dr. Smith also made some curious remarks upon the
geological character of a small island, only separated
from it by a channel about one hundred yards broad,
and not extending above three hundred yards in length.
It was entirely composed of granite and basalt, but on
one side of it there was a dyke of basalt passing up
wards through the granite, but separated from it by
three narrow veins, of which one was composed of pure
felspar, and another of a sort of porphyry, consisting of
crystals of felspar in a basaltic base.
The description given above of the general aspect of
Hong Kong may be considered as tolerably correct ;
but, by the increase of its population since that period,
and more particularly after it became a place of resort
for our ships, even before the close of the war,, the ge
neral appearance of the island gradually improved, and
the population became augmented. At the time we took
possession of the island there was little to tempt us to
make a settlement there, except the excellent anchorage
on its northern side, having a passage in and out at
either end , its proximity to the mouth of the Canton
river, and the difficulty of finding any more suitable
place for our purpose.
By many, the larger island of Lintao, a little to the
westward of Hong Kong, was recommended in place of
the latter ; and on one occasion, after we restored
Chuenpee, the greater part of our squadron anchored
off its western extremity. The principal objections to
the occupation of that island were probably its extent,
72 HONG KONG .
which would make it more difficult to hold , and would
render a larger force necessary to protect it against
thieves and pirates, as well as against an enemy ; the
more exposed situation of its anchorage; the equal
barrenness of its aspect, without any ascertained ad
vantage of being more healthy ; and I have also heard
it stated that the water is not equally abundant or
good .
At the eastern end of Hong Kong there are capital
stone -quarries, which are worked with skill and facility
hy Chinese labourers, so that building is much facili
tated ; water is also abundant and generally good . A
long range of mountains stretches from one end of the
island to the other, of which the highest point, called
Victoria Peak, is about two thousand feet above the
level of the sea ; and , at the foot of the very mountain ,
part of the town of Victoria (and it would seem also its
most unhealthy part) is built. Now, as this range of
rugged mountains extends from east to west, the har
bour, and consequently the principal part of the town
and places of business lying upon its northern side, it is
self-evident that the influence of the south-west mon
soon , which prevails during the summer months, and is
then most required to dissipate the vapours generated
out of the earth by a tropical sun , can scarcely ever be
felt on the northern side of the mountains. It has even
been remarked that, in all parts of China, places so
situated as to be sheltered from the influence of the
south winds during the summer season , are sure to be
unhealthy
The mere temperature of a place, as shown by the
73
HONG KONG .
thermometer, is neither an index to its unhealthiness or
otherwise, nor to the actual sensations produced by it
upon the human body. For instance, at Singapore,
which is situated only about seventy miles from the
equator, the heat is not felt to be excessive, nor is sick
ness prevalent during any season of the year. Yet rain
falls constantly during the night, the grass looks beau
tifully green even in the hottest season, and when
pineapples are to be seen growing wild in the hedges,
and coming to perfection . But Singapore is entirely
open to the southward, and its atmosphere is agitated
and its vapours dissipated by the refreshing sea-breezes
which constantly pass over it.
The mean temperature of the month of July last
( 1843), at Hong Kong, was 88°, the lowest was 840,
and the highest 92°. Hence it appears that the dif
ference of temperature between day and night is much
less than might be expected ; in fact, the lowest tempe
rature was only four degrees below the average tempe
rature of the whole month . On one occasion only it
rose to 92° during the middle of the day , and once only
fell to 8 1° during the night.
But, if the town of Victoria is deprived of the ad
vantage of the south -west breezes during the hot season,
it is fully exposed to the influence of the north -east
monsoon during the winter months. The sudden change
which takes place sometimes in a few hours, in the
months of October and November, is severely felt. In
the beginning of December I have felt the cold breezes
from the northward far more piercing than the hardest
frost in the still atmosphere of northern regions, because
74 HONG KONG
the change is sudden . Hence the practice among the
Chinese of putting on a succession of warm coats, or
wadded pelisses, or taking them off one by one, accord
ing as the temperature changes, is the only safe course
for Europeans to adopt. In fact, all those who visit
Hong Kong, or take up a lengthened residence there,
must be provided with clothing adapted to the extremes
of temperature, and be cautious not to defer the changes
of costume too long ; they should rather err on the side
of too much than too little clothing.
Now I am upon the subject of the unhealthiness of
Hong Kong generally (to which subject, however, I
shall again revert), I cannot omit to mention that the
sickness has by no means been limited to those who
resided on shore, but has to a very great extent afflicted
those also who remained on board ship. Nor did it di
minish so rapidly as had been expected (during the past
year, 1843), as the season advanced and the tempera
ture diminished . On the contrary, after being in a
great measure arrested at the commencement of No
vember, it seemed to acquire fresh virulence towards
the latter end of that month. A private letter, dated
November 3d, says, “ The men -of -war are reducing
their sick lists. The Cornwallis has now only one hun
dred and four; the other day she had one hundred and
"
sixty under the doctor's hands. ” Another letter, dated
the 28th of the same month, says, “ The sickness is
again as bad as ever . Each ship loses a man daily.
Among the troops on shore how many are lost ! Many
gentlemen who have been sick, and are now recovering,
are starting off for England, for health's sake .”
HONG KONG . 75
Health committees have been established, and it is
hoped that some good may result from their investiga
tions. All parts even of the northern side of the island
are not equally unhealthy ; and it must be remembered
that a place may be very unhealthy one year, and be
comparatively free from sickness the following year.
It is also remarked that the occurrence of a typhoon
(though in other respects much to be dreaded) tends
materially to improve the healthiness of an otherwise
sickly place, by the violent phenomena, barometrical
and electrical, which it produces, and by which all na
ture is affected .
Hitherto the western and eastern extremities of
Victoria Bay seem to have proved most unhealthy to
Europeans, the centre being less so. The left wing of
the 55th, quartered at West Point barracks, lost one
hundred men between June and the middle of August
last; and at length the place was abandoned, and the
rest of the men sent on board ship. At the recommen
dation of a health committee, the ground in the neigh
bourhood was ordered to be levelled and well drained .
This essential measure will doubtless be resorted to in
other situations ; indeed, it would be a matter of the
highest importance, if possible, to prohibit the cultivation
of rice by the Chinese upon any part of the island .
Wherever rice is grown, particularly within or verging
upon the tropics, there must be more or less unhealthi
ness . If compensation were thought requisite, to reim
burse the Chinese proprietors for the loss of their crops,
the amount would be small in comparison with the ad
vantage gained. But, in reality, where the rice-grounds
76 HONG KONG .
(which, after all, are very limited) had been properly
drained , they might be adapted to the cultivation of
other productions equally necessary for a population
numbering so many Europeans, and less likely to be
prejudicial to the health of the community. The
northernmost point in Europe where rice is cultivated,
is, I believe, the neighbourhood of Milan. But, even
there, none is permitted to be grown within a circuit of
several miles of the city, owing to the unhealthiness
which it would produce.
At the eastern extremity of Victoria Bay is a con
siderable valley, shut up by mountains on every side,
except towards the sea . It is laid out almost entirely
in rice- grounds; and the waters of a natural stream ,
descending from the mountains at the end of the valley,
have been diverted from their natural channel, and con
ducted by innumerable streamlets to every part of the
valley, for the irrigation of the rice-grounds. Several
houses have been built upon the declivity of the hills
around it, in the expectation that this would be the ul
timate site of a second town, as soon as the very limited
space between the mountains and the harbour, along the
front of Victoria Bay, should be completely occupied,
which it bids fair soon to become. The draining of this
valley would essentially improve the condition of that
important portion of the island .
A good road has already been nearly completed
across that valley , and over the mountains to the other
side of the island , leading down to Tytam Bay, and the
important village of Chek Chu . Beyond this valley, to
the eastward, on the other side of Matheson's Point, are
HONG KONG . 77
fine bold rocks, running down to the water's edge ;
being also more open to the draught of air along the
Lyemoon passage, this position would probably be a
healthy one . Barracks were to be built there, and near
it is one of the three spots recommended for the forma
tion of aa dockyard , but from its being partially, though
not materially, exposed to the effects of the typhoons,
there is a probability of its not being selected for the
purpose. Somewhere at this end of the harbour, it was
also proposed that a new government-house should be
built, on a scale proportioned to the importance of the
colony, as a part of the British empire in those seas.
Hitherto, I believe, nothing has been decided upon the
subject.
It is hoped that much may yet be done to remedy
the reputed unhealthiness of the island, by proper
draining, and by the formation of numerous channels
for leading off the torrents of water which, during a por
tion of the hot season, pour down from the mountain
sides, and lodge in hollows and crevices when the flood
gates of heaven are opened upon the devoted little
island. Something may also be effected by getting rid ,
as much as possible, of the rank, unwholesome vegeta
tion which, under the influence of an almost vertical sun,
springs up in every crevice where the water lodges..
I cannot undertake to say whether the numerous
species of the fern tribe, which seem to abound in some
parts of the island, may or may not contribute some
thing to the poisonous condition of the atmosphere.
The subject is well worthy of consideration . Various
other surmises have been hazarded , some, perhaps, a
78 HONG KONG.
little fanciful, such as that the rocks of which the moun
tains are composed have some peculiar property, when
water lodges in them , of producing miasmata. But in
this case it would seem more natural to attribute the
effect, if such there be, to the stagnation and evapo
ration of the water, than to any peculiar property of the
lifeless rock . Rank vegetation , in some of the little
hollows, become lifeless and putrid by heat and mois
ture, may have some local influence ; but it is probable
that various causes combine to produce one result; and
among these we must not altogether overlook the elec
trical conditions of a tropical atmosphere, little agitated
during the hot season by purifying and refreshing
breezes .
Having thus spoken so much concerning the northern
side of the island in particular, it may be asked what
is the state of the southern side, as regards its healthi
ness. Undoubtedly the southern side, being open to the
south -west monsoon , is comparatively healthy, but there
is no harbour fit for mercantile purposes on that side, nor
was any land appropriated there for building purposes in
the first instance, because the unhealthiness of Victoria
Bay was not fully ascertained, and because, where a
man's treasure or his business is, there will his heart
and his occupation be also. Doubtless, in a very short
time, many of the Europeans will reside on the southern
side of the island, and cross over the mountains daily to
transact their business.
The principal Chinese village, which numbered a popu
lation of about two thousand even when we took pos
session of the island, is prettily situated on the southern
HONG KONG . 79
side, in a sheltered bay, well open, however, to the
south-west wind. It is called Chek-chu, and, at the
suggestion of Major Aldrich, cantonments have been
formed for a detachment of troops there, so as to sepa
rate them from the Chinese population. A detachment
of the 98th regiment, which was quartered there during