Page 216
Appendix No. 4.
DIEGO GARCIA.
{C
188
Eclipse," commanded by Captain Garforth, R.N., on the 26th May, and reached Diego Garcia on the 10th June. I was then only in possession of telegraphic instructions. I did not receive the accom- panying correspondence until I came back to Ceylon. Having remained fourteen days at the island, we returned to Trincomalee, where we arrived on the 2nd instant.
The Island of Garcia is an atoll. Its plan is accurately given on the Admiralty chart. The Madrepores have built upwards from the top of a submarine mountain unil finding themselves no longer washed by the diurnal tides, they abandoned their labours, so forming an island à fleur d'eau. It may be that the summit of the mountain on which they built was of a similar shape to the atoll. It may have been the crater of a volcano, and that on the rim of the crater these toilers of the sea began their work, but I am rather disposed to question this, for just as certain plants, the mushroom for example, exhibit a tendency to spread themselves in rings, varying greatly in size, so it may be with these animals. Certainly, on one of the flat reefs on the island, I observed hundreds of atolls varying from 3 to 6 feet in diameter, just little models of the island itself, or other common atoll traces. These little atolls had invariably a depression at one point. It is curious to note too that there was a large quantity of the species of coral called "fungia" on this reef. From this formation it will be understood that no rock, no stones, no clay is to be found. The island is coral and nothing else. On this reef cocoa-nuts and other seeds, together with innumerable shells, have been washed up time out of mind. Vegetation began its reproductive work; plants and trees grew, shed their seeds and leaves, and died; and so in the course of ages an appreciable depth of vegetable mould accumulated and was spread by the winds, carrying life to every part of the unwashed reef. Thus it has risen very gradually and very slowly from the water; but even its present level would not prevent the rolling seas coming up with the south-east trade from passing right over it, were it not that it is protected by an outer reef which extends all round, and is from 150 to 200 yards wide. This belt is uncovered for the most part at low water, and descends precipitately from its outer edge.
It is this barrier that is "steep to," not the outer margin of the cultivated part of the island. The general level of the island is not now more than 3 or 4 feet above high-water mark. In some places eddies of wind have caused mounds to arise, but even they do not much exceed 6 feet.
The coral being porous and the annual rainfall great (no register has been kept), fresh water is retained near the surface, and can be collected by digging a hole from 2 to 4 feet deep. There is no such thing as a spring. The water has an earthy taste and is generally wholesome, but in some places it is said to be the reverse. It is only in seasons of drought that the few white people on the island ever drink it. Usually they drink rain-water collected in tanks. And here I may state that there are no natives of Diego Garcia, nor could I hear of a single land animal indigenous to the place. The only inhabitants are the overseers of the estates (which are three in number) and the coolies they employ. These are brought from Mauritius in batches, under varying terms of agreement for three or more years, after which they return; so that at this moment there is not a single independent person free to under- take work in the island.
The whole island, which is a dependency of Mauritius, has been sold by that Government to the present owners.
The Mini Mini estate belongs to M. Margary, residing in Mauritius; the East Point to M. Lienard, residing in Paris; and the Marianne estate to MM. Veuf et Cie., of Mauritius.
The Mauritius Government has a reserve right, I am told, to 2 acres, to be selected at any point. I believe the Middle and West Islands do not belong to any one; they are useless for cultivation; and the East Island is a part of East Point estate.
Cocoa-nut oil is the only product; about 1,000,000 gallons are exported yearly to Mauritius, with which place communication is maintained by a sailing-vessel, that makes the passage three times a-year. No steamer had been seen in the water since Her Majesty's ship "Fly" visited the place in 1873. Attempts have been made to keep cows and sheep, but they will not live. The overseers keep large stocks of pigs and poultry; on these and the inexhaustible supply of fish with which the harbour abounds they depend for sustenance.
Wine, rum, clothing, implements, and gear of all sorts are received on demand by the super- intendents from their owners or agents in Port Louis, and by them issued to the coolies. A magistrate visits the island about once in every two years. The superintendents' punishments are restricted by law to three days' imprisonment in irons. There seems to be comparatively little crime. But if the population was increased, or there was any possibility of a coolie getting employment elsewhere than on his own estate, this system of keeping order would not do; a Justice of the Peace, supported by a few constables, would be required.
The island is healthy; epidemics are unknown. Each overseer keeps a stock of simple medicines, which he dispenses to the best of his ability. No religious instruction of any kind exists.
Coming now to the question of defence, I must say that, so far as regards natural advantages, it is singularly deficient. Its exceeding flatness, the narrowness of the land, and the ease with which it can be approached on the sea-side and bombarded at any point, the great width of the entrance (about 3 miles, nearly all of which is available for boat-service, and about 1 mile for ships of any size), the soft and crumbling nature of the formation, and the total impossibility of placing a battery in any central place at the entrance, all offer strong reasons for rejecting the idea of attaching any great importance to the harbour. That it would be possible, at great expense, to render it so difficult to enter the harbour that it would not be worth the while of an enemy to attempt it, seems indeed possible; but it is rarely advisable to select a place for so formidable a defence that offers so little natural assistance to the engineer, and which could only under most exceptional circumstances be of any use to the nation at large.
Such considerations, taken in connection with the probable impossibility of constructing a dry dock, the difficulty of getting supplies of any sort, the very high charge for imported labour, and the danger of keeping Europeans in so hot, isolated, and utterly lonely a place for any lengthened period, make me give it as my decided opinion that the island is not suitable for a naval refitting station.
Page 216
Page 216
Page 216