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THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH,” SATURDAY, OCTOBER
1949,
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
Abstractism Carried Into Fashion
་
PARIS.
Á LTHOUGH it is the modern theme-a spirit that pro- ¡jects itself right into 1950-that characterises the Parts couture showings, Just finished, accord- IDK to cabled reports and summaries from Paris, there is. also a definite recollection of the silhouettes and fashion points of the 1920s apparent at many housen, Andi since all phases of "modern" art had significan Tevelopment in the 20s, Its re- Dection In the general influences of 1950 seems logical.
In the current conception of modern as applied to the new fashions in Paris, clothes and Thats are related not only to ibsimet painting bur, tu con- temporary furniture, as well.
Abstract Influence
The abstract painters who are mentioned as having left their hark on the new collections are specißtally Plensso, Matisse ind Gougin. "Everything 1symmetric on
on irregular planer ind angles". "composition of i plans-sharp angles as in by painter's abstract pictures" indiente how modern painting technique has been carried ints Paris fashions.
Modern (so modern that it le called Mid-Century, menning 1950) is the most significant oree in the new fashion trends; the 1020 and their silhouettes another, brought up to date; and very much more minor in ta representation Is the For East, and this is referred to as
'modernised Chinese,"
Trend-Setting
CORINNE
›`ik `roceal short-hair coartık.
DINAR Favours the forelock
CLAUDETTT
Thu năm thời myle for Tears
Controversy of the 'Cut'..
A
cut? Mr H. Steiner, a hair stylist, said so but today the "pro-urchina" say why they claim long hair'is out of fashion.
manages
This third blow came from
·Beauty points
by CHERRY MARSHALL
The secret of a smooth face
YOU can
control the contours of your face by skilful massage. Practised, according to some authorities," by the women of Ancient Egypt, it Is still an effective treat- for Improving the blood circulationTM and re-
ment
fining flabby and relaxed
muscles.
15 minutes
A good 15-minute routine begins, after covering the hair to prevent it getting greasy, with ́a generous coating of cold cream
Then:
of your
RE women resisting the fashionable for another 18 - (The manager of one chain of}
women monton
Long hair over high hairdressing chops in Britain has collars will look ridiculous." ald women in Britain would not adopt the new styles, beenuse
'on hands and face, The second, blow came from, film stars had not done so.] Mr Sidney Adler, on holiday from California, where he
hairdressing depart. ments of 12 stores. He said: who "The short hair style is the New thing since the b.crest
deal more Look, and a great attractive.
"Hollywood stora following the new fashion include Claud- etle. Colbert, Corinne Calvet, and Dinah Shore.”
The first blow came from Mr.
Riche, Sydney
40-year-old Mayfair ctylist.
He said: "Leading fashion producing high designers are
These collars and close hats. will be copied by the wholesale fashion houses. being
it seems "This
50, obvious that chort hair will be
Paris, from M. Pierro Reny Cup your chin in the palms landa and stroke has sly led Princess
Drmly towards the cars repeat Margaret's hair.
ing 12. limes. He cald: "Short hair is the natural development
of the French and English fashions, with their Cavalier collars and trim dresses that require short
hoir."
-(London Express Service)
With the palms reversed and thumbs placed on the chin, massage towards the end of the Jawbones, also 12 times.
These are an effective trent- ment for a double chin.
London Autumn Collections
LONDON.
PARIS has let us down badly. Fashion writers
in England saw the British
collections, couture
and rushed across the Channel on masse to see the French
Rival Paris?
There free trends appear to be the ones that will wield the greatest trend-setting power on Current fashions-in-the-making. offerings. Many of them noonday sun,
Even modern furniture has have since regretted that us with their contributed. Inspiration to new Paris fashions in its asymmetrie they did not enthuse more fumes in the coupling of planes, anglea and over the London fashions.
pheres
Displacing The Choker
TE at Egyptian collar is the
newest jewellery for even-
ag wear, having quite dis- placed the choker. Pearls and it are often mixed, and a cally elaborate collar may be wide that it is in much of he decolletage. Sometimes mitation paris, with rubies or meralds, are used in the same rnament, with occasionally arrings to match.
Tracery necklaces are another nnovation; these
a short are
דוסי
01 of elaborately worked carl or jewel molits strung In the front of a norrow chain. series of pearl links with ong tassel ends These are in- *nded to be
with the 'portrait"
neckline which very much like an Elizabethan ollar or ruft. A glance at a contemporary portrait will show hat women in the mid- ixteenth century or earlier wore weklaces of very much the same уре.
Pins, Scatterpins
But extremely modern in their
•fact aro the scalterpins, batelaines and tapel plns which, in Britain, promise to be. rory much In vogue
this iutumn. The idea is to wear several toy pins of different signs on the lapel of a jacket. Tiny insects are popular at pre-
ent.
By JOAN
ERSKINE
and sprayed The truth of the matter da latest per- that the London designers beat cool of the Paris to it this time. Perhaps evening; the models drifted it will never happen again—but bere For Paris gave us ired like blown flowers along the collections seen over drinks in the heat of the floodlight aisles at mid- this autumn anticipated almost every one of the French trends, and Interpreted them, moreover, with far more grace and elegance than Parls.
庭
THE "DISTURBED HEMLINE" is this. Ronald Peter- son's young formal short dress with laced neckline and capped sleeves. It is seen all over London in a variey of ways. Here it swoops up daringly at each side, for change, showing the knees. It is made of gleaming bronze taffeta with black polka dots all over, and is fresh and
original.
Woman to woman
Leopard time again
night, and the designers, loolding so very much a part of the fabulous scene that is at once Fashion, and French, blew kisses to their audiences, and handed out dainty monogrammed fans for their comfort.
But where was the new line
TT is smart to wear they are right. Their only
Icopardskin again. recourse is to pay a guines for we had come to see?
From
LONDON we. get
icopardskin double-breasted
box jackets with three-
alterations.
A floral idea
These were the autumn cm- lections, Important ones, and buyers and press representa tives from all parts of the world were congregated in this gayest I have seen white carnations of capitals. The sad truth must arranyod
a white china
be faced. basket fogether with black grapes and tralling Ivy..
quarter-length cuffed When arranging your flowers sleeves, and fastened with at home. It is new to' use fruit huge amber buttons.... und flowers together. camel coats with leopard- Akin linings..
*
PARIS, A From
fitting: leopardskin, carpet on the floor of a man's bedroom..
From AMERICA-One square leopardskin pocket on a plain black dress or skirt; or, a leopardskin belt - and Kang from it a man's gold watch and fold Albert.
Why la life so difficult for tho woman (and there are many) who is not blessed with a model figuro?
Many "small" and "large" women toll me of the dificully :: they have in finding smart clothes "off the peg."
of
A foot-wearing search London shops convinces me that
f
There 15 one point worth noticing. This year Parls has come out in open challenge to the British tweed and worsted export market by boosting her woollen industry. Before
war France did not seriously compete in the heavier material ranges she concentrated on elaborate silks And satins, brocades, and taffeina. And this
they went to extreme-the hobble-skirts were so tight that
With fingers placed flat over your mouth, stroko, upwarila and outwards towards the cars,
#kin working the checks gently with the palms,
on your
Don't pull the skin, par- ticularly on the cheekbones, but concentrate on maving the flesh underneath. Done
dozen times, this will prevent worlike
ng and stimulate sagging
muscles,
For unsightly "poucher," put 4the fingertips fat on your face under your eyes, and massage lightly towards vihe temples, then from the outer corners of the ryci towards the hairline.
Twelve repeats.
To smooth a lined forehead, massage firmly from the tips of the nose along the bridge to the centre of the forehead, and fun out to the temples. Repost 12 Umes,
By this time you will find that the cream has been absorbed
the by
porea. Replenish generously, and begin move- ments again from No 1
When the massage is com- plated, sponge the residue off the face with cold water.
Our skins, unless naturally olly, tend ત Coir-seri excessive sunshine.
Remorseful addicts, dismayed by a summer-tan that hasn't
ot one house even the man- quite, gone out or is turning nequins had trouble with sallow, should try a face-pack of fuller's carth and a few liem-and asked for the car-
drops of lemon, pets to be lifted so that they could glide along the parquet floor! As one male observer was heard to comment unhappily, "Either their skirts are too tight to let them sit down, or they are buttoned up to the eyebrows and we can't see their faces!"
st!
Paris, It's Late!
It should be left on for 15 minutes and then washed off with warm water. must be treated bleaching cream.
Dry skin with a good
Use salt.
A teaspoon of salt mixed with a teaspoon of skin food ls excellent. for removing dry Bakes of skin which peels off Its tan fristead of fading,
An unusual and stimulating face-mask is C mentholated ointment of the kind used for
In brief, flowing top coats are there, suite are tight- akited and loose jacketed, collars are high and wide, and skirts are slightly shorter. Inreileving colds. the.London, spring collections all this had been seen.
It should be smoothed thinly over the face, keeping it away from the eyes.
Leave it on until the tingling
with a hot
Helena Geffers showed I "borrel jacket” quit-in Paris a sensation becomes uncomfort- week later, Marcel Rochasable, then sponge showed the self-same line. And it happened again and again,
DORVILLE'S tea, green dress In find wool with white rume ut neck, like pic-crust proves attractive and orginal.
towel.. Remove the residue with tissues, and finish oft by bathing the face in cold water.
This is also good for large peres, a condition argravated by heavy make-up which is not scrupulously removed at night. A face-pack la no substitute for careful cleansing.
Avoid grease :
Women who have skin trouble and find foundations . harmful should ask their chemists to tint a bottle of calamine lotion. Blemishes luxuriate in grease, and oily cometies must be avolded. Always wash with soap, and use boracic
Imedied of a face flannel"
Int
Some women have
optimistic belief in ice as a skin stimulant. Unfortunately, it tends to break the tiny veins under the surface of the skin and can give the face à maltied Iook.
Ice should never be used un- less it is first wrapped in`a fine handicerchief.
"A safer method of toting and stimulating the skin is gentle friction with a small rubber- suction brush.
In the event of a late- season heat-wave, remember you will. look cooler I
Your lipstick. nall-and toc- colouring aren't · "bright-- piller. box red.
You favour a matt, rather than a shiny, make-up.
Your hat is not over-olled, Wear it-altort or tie it of the neck with a pretti ribbon,
Autumn tints
ta
After the bronzed zalety of summer make-up. colours will Bealin emphasise creamy skins and femininity. Brady for autumn, subile-tinted plaks soft-toned reds
and delicate is one deld in which Britain
The line. no-one thought cornts are the appropriate lip- stands a reasonable chance of would last longer than a year, click shades if you are fair ma coming out on top, hot -only oddly enough, lo more popular Brunettes should choose clear.
skill through Imagination and
than bold than ever. That is the ballet- tone rede rather There is no new line. To arrange this you need to
in handling tweeds and worsted, length evening dress tight crimsons, and except for red- place a shallow dish of water
years bodiced 'and very full-skirted, hends. It is wlac avold Inside the bowl for the Ivy and;
Paris played with vast collars, but also through many
of practice.. flowers.
Why? Because It la. Battering, afrantum or blue-red.. the noses wit mulled up to Have roses, and a few loose chiffon ruffles, and M Dior DIOR has used the thickest heo not too willing to give up dainty, and very pretty. Women rose petals, on a contre dish of throw in several dresses that possible "door-mat" tweeds for
something they like, even when peaches for the dinner table.
might have been lifted from the his winter-coats. He borrowed all the laws of fathlon are With a kick.
pages of any fashion magazine an idea from the cloaks, worn
by the French shepherds of the gainst them. of the twenties-withkirta Pyrenees so loose they are RECIPE-Á fruit compoto short enough for us to do the almost circular, and can ba peaches, Charleston in, if we felt inclined wrapped round in double thick- stewed prunes, apricots (frozen), that way. (He slyly introduced nes in cold weather. In some 'and, if you are lucky enough to
other models. tho dolman one of these low-waisted, short- aleve, is so low that it ap have, them, golden" raisins.
Serve it ice-cold or heated, skirted efforts in his previous pears like a shoulder cape.
or four tables collection--just to give us The main Paris theme seemed 'and add three
spoons of sherry befors serving. foretaste of things to come. We
to incline towards very hoped at the time it was a phobble-skirts" relieved by widow's peale, If you have one).turous colour tones of bright ing whim, but then, hope sheath-like overskirts, Bloating or it can show a short straight rose and flame red." always springs, eternal, etc.). panels, or alde drapery, Buf Tingo, or a longer curled one.....
----{London Expram Serptoo)
with
kick-use
•
Susan Deacon
-{London Express Service)
tight
Hats are, in the main, still
Brighter lips.
Too Jarife mouths need pastel Ilesticks. Before filing in out- line them carefully with a lip- small. This is principally be tick brush, keeping just within
the adgos. cause the short hair-style is eltil
Small mouths can carry popular, and large hats tool
the rather odd without suelent
lipstick slightly beyond the hair to balance them. But even outer edgen. First drawn with a here there is variety. You may lip penell, this will look perfectly wear a tiny fitting clocho that natural. slows your forehead for your Uss, brighter, more adven-
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