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THE HONGKONG TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, AUGUST
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
CHOKER
COLLARS ? HOBBLE SKIRTS ?
That's not what
they want!
THE
EILEEN ASCROFT-
sums up the big London
~fashion shows~~~
THE London Line for autumn will be shorter, sleeker, higher at the neck, with covered shoulders for evening, dis- turbed hemlines. natural shoulders and waists, fascinating detail work and lavish embroidery.
Chief
controversy among designers appears to be the length of the day-time skit. Some say 13 from the ground, others 14in, and a few, back to the Dior nummer Paris length of 151.
My feeling in that the short skiri will prevail and that you'll be shortening your hems to 15in, this winter.
angics
Other
Controversial are the short hobble skirt (Introduced by Molyneux), the evening train and the chin-high blous
I canent ree English women adopting any of these fashion extremer, The slim skirt wh concealed fulness will be more popular; also an evening dress which practical for dancing. and a blouse designed for com- fort.
The DIOR
touch
Christian Dior's 15. homine, which started the shorter skirts contro-
verty. shown (left) appliquéa all over with lat beads and sQUIE
a style popular in the Autumes shows The broken hem. linn tright is another important feature et London collections. Dior's allemoon gown of pink organza has skirt panels of vary
Both dresses word for Martene Dietrich to west in her new Hitchcock film-
tallored, with embrodery and ac. cessories more elegant then they have been for years.
Hs formal town
note are
Unusual accessory hand-knitted Jumpers And gloves to match suit material And
dresses afternoon wool with self gloves.
*K
*
Digby Morton's collection has Left Wing influence with left-sided dress panels and drap-
appearance
TRENDS
THE CLOTHES THEY ARE WEARING
★ Visiting London, Cornelius, Vanderbilt, fun, millionaire newspaperman, Ave times married, looks at some of the 1949 Englishwomen' and says they arómum
Overdressed!
he VIVIEN BATCHELOR
MERICANS visiting London "What do most of you do to are frank, observant and (t?" he asked. "I've never seen outspoken. Ono, of, the most
so many people with their hair prominent of the present bátch,
I like to ace Cornellus Vanderbilt, has given alt mussed up his views about English women. air amooth and neat, not look-
Ing...."
The more money wonten spend on their
Britts/L clothes
The word re used sounded liko the word dressed they appear "bird-nesty," but Mr Vanderbilt to be," he told vic.
oft
i
coughed over it, and was
repent It
"Your shopgirls, typists and again before I could ask him to accretaries can show the fay fair smart set how to dress,"
The expcusively dressed wo- men he says, just don't know when to stop.
He was off on the subject of food.
"Why is it so much worse in England than the rest of Europe, when you get exactly the sanie kent
Marshall from us under
"I suppose it's partly the fault of the couture houses,” he said. "but they just cram everything on. Bite of fur, bits of frills, overloaded hats and too much Ad as the other countries?" ha jewellery."-
Some women in Amerlen have the same fault, according to Mr Vanderbill, and he mentioned what he considers two of the worst dressed eilles over there, Chicago and Dallas, Texas.
His own idea of a well-dressed woman is that she shall wear simple, feminine clothes with- out any fussy bits and places.
Mrs Vanderbilt, when I saw her, was dressed in a plain long-sleeved suit of emerald green, with emerald green butterfly earrings and a simple designed brooch.
Mr Vanderbilt
had
arked.
To sum up, according to Mr Vanderbilt, English women are: "Quite well dressed if they are hard up.”
"Not bad looking consider their hair,"
"Learning to cook,"
めは
untli you
"But still a long being average American girl,”
way from attractive G% the
(London Express Service)
dark Fuchsias-Top
Autumn Colours
a good
Hardy Amies Introduces tho Envelope Skirt, 15in, from the ing. I liked his use of striped ground, bone straight, with fabrics for pockels to give a single or double Raps which three-dimensional
SPLIT SLEEVE SPIRAL SKIRT wrap over at the back to cover like window boxes.
and side
For golf or the zipped pincket
shooting, tweed slits, which allow room to walk. Attractive country skirts jackels had knitted wool backs were plented three-quarters for greater freedom of move- suits are round with
straight decorated with velvet, bead, panel fringed and caught with interesting Split Sleeve
front ment Crees also introduced an word to say for British women' FUCHSIA pink into rose and The new rearon's colours will requin or braid embroidery, a kilt pin, Scots fashion. The bottle gren, bachelor carna Evening dresses have draped
flon red, brown shades
thaw! collars; many have chestnut,
sleeves, Attractive hat is the copper,
cinnamon, ginger and bronze, pewter and Dutch Bonnet Cloche, worn with blue mink for day wear. Night suits, afternoon dresses, and shades are mostly petals.... even with a wedding dress, car- as rose, foxglove, pink, hazel, ried out in white and silver flex green, petrol and mad violet.
of
Materials are rich looking. Lots of velvet, reni silk, Icather- weight wools and satins and brocade.
are
a
crackle
brocade.
**
*
Peter Russell makes jackets 2in, longer and gives overcoats "Ilug-me-Tight" collars, which cuddle the chin or unbutton al the back
smooth and lie os Newcomers
revers. A tiny ticket pocket is nylon, named Breitschwanz concealed beneath most collars. after moire lamb which it re- sembles: dragonfly brocade, Skirts and topcoats have dis- nylon poult and organza, and turbed hems with uneven Wel Chu slik and Matiasse, panels a charming
style for which both have a quilted ap- ofternoon and evening gowns, pearance.
though not good under coats. Although the "Top Eleven"
Afternoon dresses are aleck, London dress designers have no
with deep, transparent yokes of really revolutionary fashion lace, net
tulle; horizontal changes in their export collec- tucking is used on evening tions, their clothes are winr- gowns and matching awing- able, elegant and beautifully back hip-length jackets.
Guard Against Squint Lines
NL
胎
#
(see complexions.
"Mostly they are good and learned lot, about
red shades stand out as tho big favourites in prints appear- tn In rayons and cottons for the
autumn season.
Theso shades are listed with the jewel lones which are so popular for
Blanca - Mosca uses cheeks, Line for evening, with loopedotteed that particularly on the this season. One sees them in
both large and small, or day sults, and velveteen for after noon dresses and quilted even- ing Jackels, · Quilling also on satin coat-Imings,
Shoulders are unpadded, and deep necklines or Alled with Blowers or tulle.
the front of
concealed
Fan-pleats in the skirt are half beneath a slim sheath, giving the appearance of un under- skirt. Floating panels are used, sometimes controlled u1 the hips by straps.
Smocking appears on tulle evening boxlices
with great effect and the cape sleeve- sometimes layers-appears on day and evening gowns.
Amusing accessory is the rabbit fur sweater on elastic for wearing with evening skirts in the winter.
#
Victor Attobel
*
makes cont collars so big they look like capes. Soft, folded lines are used both for skirts and bodices. Folds are used to suggest an underskirt, again to form a pocket,
*
*
#
Worth makes afternoon coats wider in the skirt to cover semi-stiff brocade gowns, Even- ing tailored sults are much featured, using jet and bugle embroidery.
Even the classic tailored sult; Is trimmed with braids, velvėt, jet and sequins.
Two pretty evening ncces- sories are quitted silk cocktail Jackets and romantic tulle even-i ing coats.
**
*
⚫akeich).
Mich:el Sherard, newest
of the number
Incorporated you've Society
of London Fashion make-up," he says. "I like to see Designers, creates n Tubular make-up, especially lipstick.
makes a woman come alive.
company with peacock green, panels in a spiral effect
(500 sketch).
Continent when we visited Hol- rusty or coppery browns, gray, Amusing Ideas were a coun-
Jan and Austria. There are not and royal. try suit, decorated with leather Then we crossed into Switzer- many 101}C}} wear lipstick.
In cottons these shades aro shooting_putch and colourful
land, and what a diference! The much favoured in prints for fishing fy, and a coney over-
1conten were vilat-looking- broad cloths and percales skirt which can be buttoned on
alive."
which are styled for back-to- to a black facecloth skirt for
school and college dresses, also greater warmth.
not like British blouses to wear with solid-
coloured woollen sults.
-(London Express Service)
TAKE
-IN
But he does women's hair.
YOUR THE
PLACE SUN
block Jersey with a tanned skin looks charming, and
con- siderably easier for some people to wear than a very diminutive pair of trunks.
#
an
The idea behind this change apparently is that A woman looks far smarter on 1040 beaches if she has the ap- pearance of a stork, but, in fact, there is a practical reason for this coverage and that is that
fierce Run 'can do enormous amount of damage to delicate shoulders, which woman only discovers, rule, when she puts on evening dress after roasting herself on the beach. "Tan gradually" is the advice given by all the best doctors.
Rose Rolland
ILLUSTRATED here is Martin White swimsuit. is a telescopic suit in and
white
cotton,
ruched panel in the
*
It
NAVY
The
front
forms a tiny skirt, and the front of the trunks under- neath is elasticated. It can be worn with the strap over one aboutder if desired. This firm now confines the
to swimulls
only four
to designs, owing public demand, They аго very reasonably priced,
A LIMITED QUANTITY ONLY OF DRESSES SHOES BAGS AND OTHER ACCESSORIES WILL BE SOLD AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES FROM MONDAY, AUGUST 22nd TO FRIDAY, THE 26th
WE SUGGEST A VISIT, WILL BE WELL WORTH YOUR WHILE
PAQUERETTE LTD
Gloucester Bldg. 1 Des Voeux lid, C.
H
Mattu drapes slik jersey for afternoon and evening. Jet em- broidered lime facecloth makes an interesting flared hip-length Toreador's evening cape.
Sully and coats are unbelied
in black for town went, but goy: colours for travelling. double-sided coot of bottle
Ideas, the London designers have FTER a pauso to reorientate their
A decided that beach clothes which almost
often made.entirely of feathers.
green, and 2 cherry/bottle suggest nudity are no longer desirable; green/smoke grey ploid is or that, at any rate, after a while they Wear dark glasses when you're out in the sun to protect eyes and help
American Optical Co. reversible and has a wrap-over begin to bore the onlooker. With this in prevent squint lines. This pair has side bars bound with genuine ratiani,
groen skirt, and waistcoat shirt view, they are auggesting well-tailored of the plaid
little conts, throat-high and wrist-leng By HELEN FOLLETT
Hate are anall and snug, but just covering the thighs; or, if they TOLIDAY time! Fun and re- of frames. Have the salesman Novel umbrellas have a allver-give way as regards sleeves, they are still laxatlon! Are you lollering late them all out, so you can parrot's head and a slim silver adamant about the neckline-seen, in a on the bench. In those new take your choice, pick out the taxi' whistro forming the beach "aloucher" built like a man's shirt. bathing .toga? Or motoring most becoming ones.
handles.
The print of the "sloucher" is particularly, along smooth, grey roads? Or leaping hither and yan
attractive, being black on a stone-coloured tennis court? All right.
signed to shut out Fino
ground and In an amusing business,
But are you protect-, glare, yet give wide vision and
scrawly design. inck comfortable fit. It is necessary with eyes glosscar You's should if you are to get the right shade of glass to guard against squint lines, vice is a big help.
for your eyes. Professional ad-
ing
your
on n
the first furrows, to appear
See that the frames are do
reflected
**
Charles Creed put choker collars and high halter pecha
on his sult blouses....vey good is popular; this is the shirt- There is another outfit which for preventing doublo chins,
upon the face. Once you get For the frames you can have, though not too comfortable to cum-brasilere (which Jooks them, it is not easy to get rid Ught or dark tortolso shell, wear.
exactly like the top of a dress of them. Prevention of many pearly ones in moonstone blue,
except that it stops abruptly beauty ills is as easy as rolling pink pearl or flesh, solid blues, Many dresses: are mado ta on à log. Curing them is greens, reda or purples. Extra match the coloured linings of above the midriff) combined something else again, not easy smart are those with sidebars the coats; Ano pleating is used with a pair of black jack jersey at all.
lightly bound with strips of in both dresses and suits. For pantaloons. The house that Sun glasses are so beautifully genuine ration.
cocktails Crood uses black lace makes this, Spectator of Lon- designed those days that a giri When you get them, wear
over a sheath of taffeta. can actually feal that sha" is. them. All too often the · Food- dressed up when sho wears looks seeker totes something them. There is an infinite home, then tucks her purchase variety of shapes and coloury away, forgets to use IE
One Interesting jacket had no butions at all, fastening just | with its belt,
don, describes it as of pirata extraction. You can take this for what it. Is worth, but car- tainly the juxtaposition of
NYLON RUFFLES
gray
From Americo comes this bath. ing costume of Iridescent
nylon interwovon with gray lastex. Ruffles 'on tha sido give freedom of moroment,
(London" Express' Bercios)
7