for
EVENING WEAR
●COLLAR ATTACHED SHIRTS.
Summit or Radiac brands; the former | having a specially light-weight body.
NEW STOCK of BLACK SOCKS. Kayon, silk or silk und wool in aukle or full length with clastic tops or ribbed tops for use with Paris garters.
PARIS BRACES in WATERED SILK. A really luxurious accessory, stocked in black or white; stock size and long.
DRESS TIES
DRESS STUDS
DRESS
VESTS
MACKINTOSH'S
DEPI
SINCERES
STORE
ANNOUNCING..........
NEWEST
BEACH
FASHIONS
IN
Seaflower Print
Fabrics, Pick Satin
and Sharkskin Lastex
• Jontron
BRENNER
SPORTS
ARRIVAL OF 1949 JANTZEN
SWIM-SUITS
FOR
LADIES GENTLEMEN CHILDREN
On Sale
Crd. Fl.
JOYCE OF CALIFORNIA
FERNCRAFT. • DESTFORM GIRDLES AND BRAS GOTHAM GOLDSTRIPE STOCKINGS CATALINA.
COLE OF CALIFORNIA.
Paquerette
GOWNS...
SHOES
Ltd
& ACCESSORIES: Gloucester Bldg., 16 Des Voeux Rd., C.
now under the personal management of
Alyson Talan
THE HONGKONG. TELEGRAPH, SATURDAY, APRIL 23, 1949.
WEEK-END WOMANSENSE
Summer Silk Suit
By PRUNELLA WOOD
Lilly Dache
TE summer silk is a time honoured wardrobe favourite whether it be in frock or suit guise, and Lilly Dache does not omil it from her sparkling and original collection.
Here is one version, a ln Dache-a classic soft suit with a new perless to the jacket back, a long torso look to the front achieved by high closing and brief collar, and a skirt which is slim to the hips but graceful to the unkles,
The fabric is handsome, for town or country when luncheon is the social occasion, a creamy coffee beige silk surah, with sprinkleˇpattern of largiah"black" dots. Shown with a black straw hat which dips toward the neck nape and shoots out with flatter shadows far ahead.
IT'S
TOWARDS A SLIM SILHOUETTE
By HELEN FOLLETT
doesn't matter what styles prevail; they are flattering only to the svelte, graceful silhouette. Fashion designers may sing in favour of long, snug, slinky skirts. or billowing flounces from hip to toe, but the feminine frame must be of good proportions if it is to carry the styles beautifully, and with fair and distinc- tion.
the
What are you doing about the waistline that, for years, has followed a polley of expansion? A trim waist is one of essentials of a beautiful figure. Few women past forty have the slenderness of waist that is in- dicative of youth, and that Is a pity, because the right kind hell of exercises would have backli the accumulation nf adipose tissues.
Simple Exercises
the
Let us suggest some simpe exercises. Stand tall, feet six inches nport, bunds on hips. Bend the torso forward, keep- ing the hips Immovable, un the upper portion of the body is at right angles with
Take a long lower
portion
breath deep breath. fald the while you count three. Back to first position, exhaling slowly through the lips. Deep breath- ing is an important part of this routine.
D
10
hips and thighs, will fend strengthen them, bring body lines to normal.
RAYON IS CRISP SILK
LIGHT AS
LONDON.
set up the Council of Industrial
to
Design 10 help. industries
their own design
operate.
centres.
BEAUTIFUL Re- gency house in May fair, a stone's throw The Rayon Industry Design from Park Lane, has been Centre, founded and malutained Industry, with by the rayon amazingly transformed.
the aid of a grant from the Once the town house of Board of Trade, is the first un- a famoys London family, it der the Government scheme. there the Government's in now
of And the centre Britain's youngest textile part ends. The design centre is the Instrument of, the industry industry-rayon.
It serves and an exciting new Industry it is, barely fly years old.
No. 1 Upper Grosvenor Street Tooks much the same from the outside as it must have done in the late 18th century-but what would the dashing young bucks (with their embroidered waist- couts) and the charming young ladies (with roll chust scattered In their hair) think of it nil now? I wonder if they would ke the solid plate glass door? Or if the scarlet rayon, corduroy stair carpel would appeal?
In 1044. the Government realised the vital importance of design la British Industry, and
New Processes PAYON is a fabric that can be produced cheaply for every- It has the crispness tiny needs. of wool, coupled with the light ness of silk.
ર
Back in 1864, the curator of the Royal Society pubished book in which he envisaged a time when it would be possile to produce a trend that would compete with the silk Sir Joseph Swan, hundreds of
SHOPPING IN BERLIN
worm,
that very few people have any money
at all to spend
By LUCY MILNER ONCE inside the door of Hans Gehringer, the most fashionable dress de- signer in Berlin, and you might be in Paris or Lon- don.
You see the usual
colour scheine of white walls and dark brown carpet re deep arm- chairs; mirror glass tables, nile- ror hung walls, flood lighting trained on the singe where the mannequins step out.
is warth, luxurious; they are discussing the success of the spotted cape, the satin ballet skirts, and wondering whether the big hats made by Mecklen burg for evening will
really
take on.
It was only when I asked f I could see any of the dresses that I got a sudden shock unreality.
th collection
The
Blown in
girl said.
has
of
AS WOOL,
years later, experimenting with electric light filaments, pro- duced una capable of textlio use. Today a rayon Alament can be one-third as time of a silkworm's thread, or, as strong ns any known fibre,
by JOAN ERSKINE
The main purpose of this De- sign Centre la to link up the many different crafts that mako up the industry. Manufacturers enn meet buyers; makers-up can meet couturiern. There is ***
reference collec- inn'excellent
tion of amplo fabrics and library of technical books and trade journals. Students study
take,
examinations for, and there.
→Dress parades are staged in the small display room to show dress fabrics in thelr Anal form-rayon ns used by the.
the designer. Round dress
latest walls are displayed the examples of this complex in- dustry from conveyor belting to fincat lingerie Ince. A device
The industry began to grow fant after the first World War Many new processes were rapidly
fol- developed in the
Unlike many lowing years. fabrics, the colouring matter can be put into the liquid rayon before it solidifles. One plece of fabric I was shown had two differently woven threads; this It could be "cross-dyed," mennt
at dyed two cotours that once. The two threads plcked up their own colours in one process. The particular example showed silver grey motifs en a red
the background, and on reverse side were red motifs an a sliver grey_background.
Not generally known is the fact that the famous Irish linen trade now uses a very large rayon spun and percentage of woven in the linen method. Lancashire spins it in the cotton
Yorkshire way: woollen method. Perhaps the of this syn- biggest advantage thetle material is that it con take on the appearance of almost any other fabric. It can colour look like wool, corduroy, crepe fabrics can be seen or linen.
Incidentally. Utility dresses telimaic. In one corner, draped were (and very good ones) are made
floor. from celling of Huen. But non-Utility materials. By playing with a different types of rayon
mer
of
was the
clothes,
The material the drew made of was. very poor; percentage of weel in it would hardly have dressed a cat.
The comparison between the things in the
and the shops people in the streets k
very acute. Most places have a con- stant frill of
window- eager shoppers, but from their
по- pearance it seems unlikely that they ever buy anything.
In this bitter cold the women are wrapped in shapeless layers so thickly that they can hardly lift their arms.
Their shoes are sometimes
Just wooden soles held on with straps. Their clothes and their fuees are colourless.
You can walk for an hour and never see n well-dressed woman, or even a girl wearing Leeny make-up.
Krefeld," the salca
Krefeld was the first town Germany I went to in the carly.
spring of 1945, and all I could remember Was
dark and hopeless desert of rubble, with of Germans living
underground Now it is reinstated a the centre of the German tile industry,
cellars.
x
Behind the scenes at Gehrin- ger's all is naturally not so easy There as it appears in front.
is electricity for only two hours _a_day, for instance.
CANDLELIGHT During the
-(London Express Service)
Beauty points
uses
dresses come in rayon linen. Why? Because rayon crease-resisting.
Look Of Tomorrow THE Design Centre Itself has a "Ionk of tomorrow” well sult- jed to the young Industry it represents. Rayon is the sub- ject of constant experiment. And this house, too, is in one
simple, it is surprising no-one thought of it before, is a perspex panet with magnify- ing glass set in, which slides 'along a rail and allows the dit-
ferent types studied with case.
Main Attraction
nitractiun BUT the main
overseas buyers, particularly those from tropical countries, will be the first permanent
Int
Europe Installation dimmer controlled fluorescent lighting, by which under, the
of weave to be
natural conditions of
heRVY
to
or
any
of
set of knobs, I managed to pro- duce for myself the clear ice- blue of a Scandinavian sun, the
orange-yellow glow
the dazzling the tropics, and clarity of the Californian sum- mer
Design
But the keynote is It is being realised in many for stal industries that the public, way experimentol. The
accept any- RD long forced to carpet of red corduroy rayon is
In the Chair-ing There is something new.
thing, have become discriminat
no longer the man's room on the ground floor,
but
wor
prejudice
reputation- blue and green predominales mad rush to buy. British lex- an unusual colour combination, tiles have a high
in competition for the Chairs which look as if they world's markets, it is realised are upholstered in broende, and good design is the selling fac-, curtains which look like heavy foo carded wool, are all rayon. As y
The old-fashioned walked up the graceful, curv-
against
rayon as an artificial ing staircase, and looked up 10
fabric is gradually dying, The the top floor. I noticed the
wearing ceilings of each landing
younger generation is were
same enthu- rayon with the painted a different colour,
jslasm as their mothers wore Jemon, pate hilue, green, plak, Macclesfield silk. but the sloped purts were all 1 white,
~~(London Express Service)
Making the best
of
your hair and face
by...
-CHERRY-MARSHALL-
time is here.
so why not experiment with a few brighter ideas in make-up?
last feverkshUMMER weeks before the collection was shown, the seamstresses wero stitching by candlelight-and candles come up at about shilling each.
Then there is the shortage of
the fabrics. Only
minimum
23
:
Is allowed space on the air-lift, a certain quantity may be added from the Russian sector, but legally and expen- sively.
The cight or nine big dress
this houses showingt collection
Tinted hair-rinses, used after shampoo, are flattering and Sold can be washed out again. in a variety of colours, they are
simple to use.
Dissolve the crystals in warm water and pour, over the head. Care should be taken to protect the face from splashes or the solution stnins.
Henna rinses give, a
reddish
low dark and suburo kair. Blondes should try a rose-pink rinse, particularly if their skins are shallow, as a change from
gokles For greyheads there are smart platinum and sicely-blue pre-
one.
#
of
valley
diriy
black
give distinction
mousy hair.
Geenhouse these came.
parations, Gun-metal
rinses
10 faded
Dr
year cannot hope to sell to any but the most exceptional private customers; they, depent almost
wholesale buying. entirely on
Coming out of Gehringer's And here's another good one: into the Kurfurstendamm, they Standing next to the wall, leant vere selling great bunches
the an it with feet together, heels,lilac and lies of
heaped-up. four Inches away. Stretch arms
among the above hend, elbows back
snow; heaven and the On wall. Keeping sill from the marketeer alone knows from waist down. slar stretching what
is one of the few Making them match slowly to left and stretch hard as you con, remembering balldings which stands, with to keep elbows on wall and windows, three
high storeys thumbs turned in. Do this Everywhere elso along
street the
are shops twenty lines.
packed together like luc coloured boxes on the street level, while above them stretch the endless, windowless, rooßess ruins.
I went into Fome of these little shops with a woman who was looking, for a spring dress.
prices seemed to
of
Takes Inchoss Off
the
mo
Here Is an exercise that will tighten abdominal muscles, take Inchies from hips and thighs. Lle flat on your back in bed, hands under the buttocks for support. The Lift the legs slowly until you astonishingly low, but the com- are fairly standing on the back pileations of the currency make
neck. your
Lower them
it hard to. Judge the exact slowly. This exercise is good
value of anything. fun. At the first feeling of
· CURRENCY CHANGE fatigue, relax completely, lake five or six deep, long breathe, The recent currency change. iben at it again.
making East (or Soviet) marks woman has plump illegal tender in the Allied shoulders and over-developed zones, will simplify things upper arms, while the rest of the end, but its immediate effect her figure is fairly slender, she will be make prices higher.
My friend was lucky ought to swing Indlan clubs and chin the bar. Does she protest? bought her dress two days bc- Of course she does. And fore the change was announced. lot of good it does her.
It was uninteresting, but quite To reduce fatted calves
cut and well made, well and
And to develop thin ones the candi- cost 130 cast marks, or 35 west date for beauty must ride marks, and took 35
coupons, stationary bicycle, pedalling on which she had been saving up. her toes, and lifting horself (She paid in cast marks, from the saddle so her entire everyone had seen this currency weight is on her legs and feet. changa coming and was caner Incidentally, do not overlook to get rid of their Soviet cur- the fact that when you partake rency).
your
and
and
AS
in
Mascara and eye-shadow colours that match the hair and eyes make a novel change.
londes
and
redheads need brown mascara; brunettes, black
dark nr
blue; brownelles, brown or black.
Silver-specked Iridescent eye- shadows are new and flattering For blue eyes there is blue or grey shadow; brown, green, and hazel eyes hove
green or brown.
a choice
of
blue, and
The grey-balrect, grey-eyed
revel in enn
shadow purple, or green
woman
mascara.
Artificial nails
For those who find it difficult to put on nali varnish, or whose natis are brille and Inclined to peel or break, a set of artificial nails will give a new look to the hands.
These are supplied in most colours, easy to use, practical to wear, and almost indistinguish- able from your own.
ство
They also have the advantage for of providing protection
ralla and will damaged courage them to grow normally. Brittle nails can be improved by frequent soaking in oil. Florid skins and red
mauve
noses
Stand tall, feet slightly sport. both arms forward and ward In front of you in completo circle. As the arms of fats, sweets and starches you It seems practically Impos- can be effectively chmoudaged
back are
with feeding
fat cells. sible to reduce this price to its
or green-tinted come down, keep the straight and bend the knees. As Starve them by eating lean equivalent in English money; powders. Inflamed skins, weep- the arms lift again, stretch the meat, poultry, frults and the official exchange is 13 West ing spots, and other blemishes body full length, moke the legs vegetables, especially green marks to the £, but there is a should be treated with an anti-
pull salads and
heals rigld. These movements
septle make-up, which they'll go off and far better exchange to be had
and conceals at the same time. hard on the muscles of waist, dic.
on the black market. Against
THE
Tony
RIGHT WAY-for
thin faces, But tightly drawn
back huir (below)
the WRONG
WAY.
HAIR-
dress soltly
EYEBROWS neatly, plucked
UPSTICK- bold, well defined
If you wear glasses
THE short-sighted woman who nvolds wearing glasses and develops a screwed-up, myopic dis- sture is doing herself a service. Glasses can be obtain- ed in colours' and shapes to suit every face, and add to attrac- tiveness,
of your
Choose the shade frames according to the colour of your hair, and always, match accessory with at least one
gloves) of the (scarf, belt, or same shade.
up
Brunetles and brownettes can
wear scarlet, bright green, and royal blue.
tur
For blondes there is midnight blue and dark green. Auburns and redheads look attractive in most shades of green or quoise.
Dress the hair softly. Tightly too back, it looks drawn Bevere: too many curls give on over-dressed effect.
Bold lipstick attention
to
should
ROUGE-
low on chaaks
Tolby
RIGHT WAY -for round
1000; lant
ayed shape.
Framer lack boldness in the
WRONG WAY
flote).
mouth, as coloured frames need a brighter make-up,
Keep the cycbrows neatly the plucked and shaped and fashes
mascara'd. A rollable lotion should bo used regularly to brighten the eyes.
Place rouge rather low on the cheeks, blending it upwards and outwards to just below the rins of the glasses.
If your fare is small, don't dwart it
It with heavy frames; if large,
get bolder, frames
to balanco your · features.
Slant-eyed shapes aro kinder
to round faces. More rounded, Jeep curves help to balance drawong, thin faces.
D well-defined
-London Expreza Berpice)